Oggi vi porto a Udine, città dove il fascino veneziano sposa suntuosi palazzi, meravigliose piazze, scorci suggestivi. Troverete storia, arte, scoprirete il suo Castello, incontrerete le magie pittoriche del Tiepolo e… gusterete il frico, succulenta frittella salata a base di formaggio Montasio, patate, cipolle, spesso arricchito con pancetta o funghi e rigorosamente accompagnato da una fumante polenta e un buon calice di vino, o per dirla alla friulana… un buon tajut.
Il nostro itinerario del bello e del gusto a Udine Partiamo da Piazza della Libertà, definita “la più bella piazza veneziana sulla terraferma“.
Piazza della Libertà
Dopo una salita (abbastanza ripida, ma piacevole) arriviano al Castello. Sorge sul colle della città, da cui si intravedono i tetti, le montagne e, verso sud, il mare Adriatico. Nel suo interno ospita numerose mostre, collezioni d’arte e l’interessante Museo della Fotografia Friulana.
Il Castello
Il Duomo Datato 1257, Il Duomo è la chiesa più importante ed imponente della città. Si trova nella suggestiva piazza Duomo, a pochi passi dalle vie principali del centro storico, come la vivace Via Mercatovecchio, cuore dello shopping in mezzo ai suggestivi portici.
Arte Casa Cavazzini, ci attende con la sua splendida collezione di arte moderna, con opere di De Chirico, Carrà, Guttuso, Chagall e Picasso, In corso la mostra La Formadell’Infinito, un viaggio di cento anni di bellezza, dal figurativo all’astratto, in contatto privilegiato con opere da capogiro, firmate dai più grandi geni dell’arte degli ultimi due secoli.
Casa Cavazzini
Museo Diocesano e le Gallerie di Giambattista Tiepolo ospitano i meravigliosi affreschi del Palazzo Patriarcale. la cui collezione circa 700 opere, tra cui le opere del Tiepolo, che decorò il soffitto dello Scalone d’onore, la Galleria degli ospiti e la Sala rossa per volere dell’allora patriarca Dionisio Dolfin.
Voglia di un drink? I portici di Piazza Matteotti, (o delle Erbe) pullulano di botteghe, bar e dehors, mentre qua e la sbucano trattorie tipiche che propongono i piatti tradizionali della cucina friulana, tutti davvero gustosi. Fame? Pronti per scoprire le delizie locali?
Il ‘frico’ Storico piatto della cucina povera che utilizzava gli avanzi di formaggio. Si tratta di un tortino a base di patate e formaggio locale, tradizionalmente il Montasio che è uno dei prodotti più apprezzati in regione e che si può trovare in varie stagionature.
Cjarsons Ravioli con un ripieno a base di mele, ricotta, patate lesse, pere, uvetta, spinaci, pinoli, cannella e cacao. Vengono serviti conditi con burro fuso, ricotta affumicata grattugiata, zucchero e cannella.
Due ‘cjarsons gourmet’ degli Chef Max Sabinot e Stefano Basello
Jota Sarà che sono un fanatico delle zuppe…ma questa è davvero da Oscar! La ‘jota’ è un minestra a base di crauti, fagioli e patate, un piatto frugale ma molto energetico.
la zuppa ‘jota’
Muset e brovada Piatto caratteristico invernale a base di cotechino casereccio posato su rape rosse messe a macerare per molti giorni nelle vinacce. L’insaccato di maiale molto simile al cotechino, nello specifico, per la sua preparazione viene utilizzato esclusivamente il muso del maiale, che viene tritato e mescolato con spezie come pepe, cannella e noce moscata.
A una cucina, forte, contadina e robusta quale buon vino abbinare?
Tra tutti i vitigni a bacca rossa, il Pinot Nero è universalmente considerato uno dei più difficili e, allo stesso tempo, uno dei più affascinanti. Ci sono voluti diversi anni prima che arrivassero all’orizzonte produttori coraggiosi capaci di affrontare il nobile vitigno, dedicandogli tutte le cure necessarie sia in fase di allevamento sia in fase di vinificazione.
Immancabile selfie nelle cantine Gori, nel regno del Pinot Nero
Senza dubbio questo vino mantiene la sua austera eleganza nordica aggiungendo una strepitosa nota mediterranea nell’eccellente Pinot Nero Nemas 1° che nasce dai vigneti della Agricola Gori, nele colline di Guyot. In bocca rivela tutta la sua eleganza e complessità con note fruttate sostenute da una fine tannicità che lo rende austero ma piacevole all’assaggio.
Il Pinot Nero Nemas 1 trova un ampia gamma di abbinamenti, dai formaggi alla pasta, al pesce ai salumi.
La Gubana Dolce classico della tradizionale friulana faffo con è pasta dolce lievitata e facita con uvetta, noci, pinoli, zucchero e grappa.
La ‘gubana’ del pasticcere Paolo Zorzenone
Dove gustare un ‘frico’ ricco e gustoso? Lasciatevelo servire dalla super cool Valentina, la cui famiglia tramanda da generazioni le delizie friulane. Ottima chef e ‘locandiera’ dell’annessa locanda , un delizioso B&B arredato in stile Fantasyland. Una vera ‘cuciniera’ friulana per una tradizionale ricetta del ‘frico’
LA RICETTA DEL ‘FRICO’
Ingredienti
600 gr di patate
400 gr formaggio Montasio
1 cipolla grande
olio extravergine
sale Procedimento In una padella fate appassire la cipolla tagliata sottile. Basterà 1 cucchiaio di olio per farla diventare morbide e bionda. Aggiungete le patate tagliate a pezzetti, sale, pepe ed un mestolo d’acqua. A cottura ultimata incorporate lentamente il montasio tagliato a fettine e formate un impasto; passatelo quindi in un tegame antiaderente di 20 cm di diametro. Appiattite e fate cuocere 10 minuti a fiamma alta, sempre mescolando finche il fondo sarà ben compatto. Ruotate dall’altra parte, come se fosse una frittata, fino a ottenere una bella crosticina dorata da ambo le parti. Servire caldo.…e nel calice? PLAN Friulano della vinicola Rodaro, di cui Paolo è la sesta generazione dei vignaioli della sua famglia. Un bianco autoctono, giallo paglierino tendente al verdognolo. Secco, fresco, vellutato con un leggero sentore di mandorla amaracon un’intensa fragranza che ricorda fiori selvatici, camomilla, mela Golden e pera Kaiser. Accoppiamento ideale con le eccellenze locali: formaggio Montasio e prosciutto di San Daniele. INFO Pacchetti turistici studiati per visitare Udine e la mostra La Forma dell’Infinito
The original recipe of ‘frico’ recipe in english The ‘frico’ it’s an historic dish of the poor cuisine that used the leftovers of cheese. It is a pie made with potatoes and local cheese, traditionally Montasio which is one of the most popular products in the region and which can be found in various ages..Which good wine to combine with a strong, peasant and robust cuisine?
Among all the red grape varieties, Pinot Noir is universally considered one of the most difficult and, at the same time, one of the most fascinating. It took several years before courageous producers capable of tackling the noble grape variety arrived on the horizon, dedicating all the necessary care to it both in the breeding phase and in the vinification phase.
Immancabile selfie nelle cantine Gori, nel regno del Pinot Nero
Undoubtedly this wine maintains its austere Nordic elegance by adding an amazing Mediterranean note in the excellent Pinot Nero Nemas 1 ° which comes from the vineyards of Agricola Gori in the Guyot hills. In the mouth it reveals all its elegance and complexity with fruity notes supported by a fine tannin that makes it austere but pleasant to taste
Il Pinot Nero Nemas 1 trova un ampia gamma di abbinamenti, dai formaggi alla pasta, al pesce ai salumi.
THE ‘FRICO’ RECIPE
Ingredients 600 gr of potatoes 400 gr Montasio cheese 1 large onion extra virgin olive oil salt Procedure In a pan, sauté the thinly sliced onion. 1 tablespoon of oil will be enough to make it soft and blonde. Add the potatoes cut into small pieces, salt, pepper and a ladle of water. When cooked, slowly incorporate the sliced montasio and form a dough; then pass it into a non-stick pan of 20 cm in diameter. Flatten and cook for 10 minutes over high heat, stirring constantly until the bottom is very compact. Turn the other side, as if it were an omelette, until you get a nice golden crust on both sides. Serve hot ….
A wine to pair? PLAN Friulano from the Rodaro winery, of which Paolo is the sixth generation of winemakers in his family. A native white, straw yellow tending to greenish. Dry, fresh, velvety with a slight hint of bitter almond with an intense fragrance reminiscent of wild flowers, chamomile, Golden apple and Kaiser pear. Ideal pairing with local excellences: Montasio cheese and San Daniele ham.
INFO
Hot tips to visit Udine and the exhibition The Shape of Infinito
di Cesare Zucca (Recipe in italian and english) — – Benvenuti nell’incanto di Taormina! Welcome to enchanting Taormina! Oggi ci avventuriamo alla scoperta del suggestivo Corso Umberto, la via-passeggiata che attraversa il centro storico della Città, un percorso all’insegna del bello, dello shopping e del gusto. Partiamo da Porta Messina, inaugurata, da Ferdinando IV di Borbone nel 1808. Il Corso presenta strutture e edifici appartenenti a stili di epoche diverse, da quello arabo a quello normanno, dal gotico al barocco, mentre i monumenti greco-romani sono stati sostituiti da nuove costruzioni, così il tempio di Giove Serapide ha lasciato il posto alla Chiesa di S. Pancrazio, mentre sui resti dell’Odeon è nata la Chiesa di S. Caterina.
Porta Messina
Da vedere nelle vicinanze Palazzo Corvaj, costruito e il 902 e il 1079 sui resti dell’antico foro romano,oggi ospita il Comune e il Museo Siciliano di Arte e Tradizioni Popolari. L‘Odeon Romano, piccolo teatro costruito in epoca romana, pacoscenico di rappresentazioni musicali e letterarie destinate all’élite della città.
La Strada per il Teatro Greco, ispirata alla famosa scala di Trinità dei Monti a Roma. Conduce da Piazza Badia al Teatro Greco ed è popolata da bancarelle e negozietti di souvenir, chioschi di prodotti dolciari siciliani, ristoranti, bar e tanti venditori ambulanti, anche troppi…
Per fortuna pochi attimi dopo ci tuffiamo nello splendore del Teatro Greco, il più grande teatro classico d’Italia dopo quello di Siracusa. Un gioiello architettonico che colpisce per la perfetta acustica, e l’incanto del palcoscenico che ha ospitato concerti e gli spettacoli di rilievo internazionale.
Teatro Greco
Torniamo nel Corso dove scopriremo un edificio in pietra bianca, è la Chiesa del Varò che custodisce un famoso affresco rappresentante il trionfo della Croce. Palazzo Ciampoli , edificato nel 1412,. Fino a pochi anni fa il palazzo ha ospitato un famoso night club taorminese. Oggi si possono ammirare il suo prospetto e la scalinata d’accesso. San Domenico, chiostro dell’ex convento che nel 1896 è stato trasformato in un hotel di lusso.
San Domenico
Eccoci arrivati in prossimità di Porta Catania, edificata nel 1440, come ci viene rivelato dallo stemma Aragonese posto sopra l’arco. Da vedere nelle vicinanze La Chiesa di S. Antonio Abate fonde elementi di arte gotica, barocca e bizantina, Chiesa del Carmine che può essere raggiunta attraverso una breve scalinata. Distrutta dai bombardamenti del 1943, oggi è un auditorium e sala di esposizione. Il trecentesco Palazzo Duchi di S. Stefano, in stile gotico-siciliano, attorniato da un incantevole giardino con il pozzo per la raccolta dell’acqua piovana.
Chiesa del Carmine
Shopping chic Corso Umberto pullula di negozi d’artigianato, gioiellerie e boutiques di moda. Parisi, eccellenza della tradizione sartoriale nata nella bottega di nonno Salvatore, dove tra cotoni martellati egiziani e lini della Tasmania, venivano confezionati a mano eleganti abiti per i dandy locali. Un’ arte tramandata da tre generazioni che continua oggi nei negozi Parisi, eredi della ricerca del gusto e dello stile iniziati dal nonno.
La tradizione dell’arte siciliana si esprime nelle ceramiche, nella moda, negli oggetti d’artigianato e nella bigiotteria “made in Taormina” nelle boutiques “Giorgia” e “Giorgia on the House” di Giorgia D’Agostino, sorella dello Chef Pietro.
La moda e l’oggettistica di Giorgia D’Agostino sposano l’atmosfera solare di Corso Umberto a Taormina
Le Colonne, piccolo scrigno prezioso nel cuore di Taormina offre le creazioni di Alvaro e Correnti, dove l’oro puro è accostato al bronzo, all’argento brunito e alle gemme incise. Una punta di lancia, una scultura, una moneta, divengono così il punto di partenza che porta alla creazione di gioielli e raffinati accessori.
Susan Sarandon e le creazioni dell’oreficeria artigianale Le Colonne
Saro Storico negozio Di Antiquariato, ceramica contemporanea, gioielli e oggettistica a Taormina, praticamente una full immersion sicilian style…
Blue Royal Piccolo scrigno di arte e creatività. É il negozio che offre le ceramiche siciliane più pregiate sul mercato, opere di di artisti iche trasmettono la cultura e l’arte siciliana, dalle tradizionali teste di Moro agli accessori per la decorazione di ambienti interni ed esterni,
Le ceramiche di Blue Royal
La gastronomia di Taormina Rappresenta una storia millenaria perché Greci, Arabi, Normanni, Francesi e Spagnoli hanno lasciato le loro tracce nella cucina locale. A cominciare dagli involtini di pesce spada , farciti con pangrattato, con pinoli, olive, uvetta, limone e menta, una ricetta che risente delle influenze arabe , così pure l’arancino di riso, ingrediente che fu introdotto in Sicilia dagli Arabi, capeggiati dall ’emiro Ibn At Timnah, mentre il ripieno di ragù di carne e la panatura hanno origini normanne. A Tormina l’arancino top è al pistacchio.
Tipicità gastronomiche di Taormina: arancino al pistacchio e involtini di pesce spada
La caponata, nata come piatto “ricco” a base di pesce capone, che, col passare del tempo, venne sostituito dalle più economiche melanzane, diventano così un piatto “povero” alla portata di tutti. Tra i dolci, le cuzzole o cudduruni, squisiti dolcetti fritti ricavati dai rimasugli di pane, proprio come lo facevano anticamente le madri siciliane.
le cuzzole
Durante Taobuk, Festival letterario giunto alla sua dodicesimA edizione, non è inusuale vedere turisti che passeggiano per le vie del Corso, mentre si godono le prelibatezze offerte dallo street food della città. Ed è proprio la kermesse letteraria a consentirlo, visto che si svolge ogni anno in giro per la città. Da Porta Catania a Porta Messina, innumerevoli venditori di street food, vi inviteranno a provare il loro arancino… Come scegliere quello giusto ? Beh, andate a …naso. Gli arancini sprizzano aromi intensi e i “pidoni” rustici impasti lievitati, cotti al forno o fritti non ne sono da meno…
Tre protagonisti street food di Taormina: arancino, pidone e cannolo al pistacchio
Sicilia, si sa, è granita: nevosa, soffice e rinfrescante, ai profumo e gusto del gelso, de … o del mandarino abbinato al lampone, come nella versione top di Bam Bar sosta imperdibile lungo la vostra passeggiata sul Corso.
una deliziosa granita di Bam Bar
Regina della tavola è la Pasta alla Norma, maccheroni conditi con salsa di pomodoro le melanzane olive, ricotta salata e basilico. Pare debba il suo nome al commediografo Martoglio che esclamò “Chista è ‘na vera Norma!” (questa è la vera Norma!), paragonandola alla protagonista dell’opera di Bellini.
L’iconica Pasta alla Norma
Di sicuro la “Pasta alla Norma” è l’ eccellenza storica della storia culinaria della cttà , anche se non mancano le variazioni… Ecco, infatti, gli “Agnolotti fuori dalla Norma” piatto, firmato dallo Chef stellato Pietro D’Agostino che ben rappresenta l’eclettica atmosfera di Taormina, racchiusa nel menu vivacemente alternativo del Kistè
Lo Chef stellato Pietro D’Agostino, il suo nuovo libro “Creatività. Memoria e Territorio” e un piatto di pesce del Kistè
Questo ristorante si trova a due passi dal Duomo, all’interno dell’antica e fascinosa Casa Cipolla, storico palazzo del tardo Quattrocento, con due antichissime cisterne che ne danno il nome “Kistè” dal greco e dove è possibile gustare una selezione dei migliori sapori siciliani.
“Un nuovo concetto di ristorazione” ci racconta la proprietaria e sommellier Morena Benenati, amante e cultrice dell’arte, della storia della Sicilia, dei suoi miti, le sue tradizioni e i suoi vini. “Amo molto i vini francesi, ma continuo a scegliere quelli siciliani perchè vogliamo dare spazio agli straordinari produttori della nostra Isola” Kistè riaprirà in Marzo, ma sono riuscito a “rubare” a Pietro D’Agostino la ricetta di questa “Norma” controcorrente. Eccola!
AGNOLOTTI FUORI DALLA NORMA
Preparazione Per la pasta Disponete le farine a fontana, unite al centro le uova e l’olio, e impastate fino a ottenere un composto sodo e omogeneo. Formate una sfera, coprite con pellicola trasparente e fate riposare per 30 minuti. Per la farcia Lavate e spuntate le melanzane; con un pelapatate eliminate metà buccia e tagliate la polpa a cubetti. In una padella scaldate abbondante olio e friggetevi i cubetti di melanzana; quando saranno ben dorati, scolateli e fateli asciugare su carta assorbente da cucina. Salate. In una ciotola raccogliete le melanzane e unite la ricotta grattugiata e il basilico tritato. Aggiustate di sale e di pepe e amalgamate. Trascorso il tempo di riposo, tirate la pasta fino a ottenere una sfoglia sottile. Su metà sfoglia disponete noci di ripieno (a intervalli regolari di 4-5 cm), coprite con l’altra parte di sfoglia, sigillate e tagliate con un tagliapasta tondo. Per la salsa Tagliate i pomodori, privateli di semi e frullate con basilico. In una padella fate rosolare l’aglio con un filo di olio, la passata fresca di pomodoro e fate cuocere su fiamma vivace. Profumate con il basilico e regolate di sale e di pepe. Preparate contemporaneamente una fonduta di parmigiano reggiano facendo cuocere a fiamma lenta panna e parmigiano grattuggiato. Lessate gli agnolotti in acqua leggermente salata, scolateli e trasferiteli in padella con la salsa. Fateli saltare per qualche minuto, facendo attenzione a non romperli, e impiattate. Decorate con un filo di foduta di parigiano e spolverate con ricotta salata grattugiata.
Dove mangiare nel Corso Umberto e dintorni
Otto Geleng con le sue tavola preziose, argenti, cristalli, tovaglie ricamate a mano, una vista incomparabile della costa e la spettacolare cucina dello chef stellato Roberto Toro
Otto Gelengh Granduca Cinque archi Licchio
Licchio Ristorante Bar
Strit Fud Bistrot Siciliano Sik Baronessa
Atmosfera gattopardesca alla Baronessa
Da Cristina Osteria da Rita La Botte Vineria Modì Le vivaci viuzze che attraversano Corso Umberto, piene di profumi, colori. E proprio il caso di dirlo: ” I LOVE Taormina” !
Here the Recipe in english Certainly the “Pasta alla Norma” is the historical excellence of the culinary history of the city, even if there is no lack of variations … Here, in fact, the “Agnolotti fuori dalla Norma” dish, signed by the starred Chef Pietro D’Agostino which well represents the eclectic atmosphere of Taormina, contained in the lively alternative menu of the Kistè
Lo Chef stellato Pietro D’Agostino e un piatto di pesce del Kistè
This restaurant is located a stone’s throw from the Duomo, inside the ancient and fascinating Casa Cipolla, a historic building from the late fifteenth century, with two ancient cisterns that give it the name “Kistè” from the Greek and where you can taste a selection of the best Sicilian flavors.
“A new concept of catering” tells us the owner and sommelier Morena Benenati, a lover and culturess of art, of the history of Sicily, of its myths, its traditions and its wines. “I love French wines very much, but I continue to choose Sicilian wines because we want to give space to the extraordinary producers of our island” Kistè will reopen in March, but I managed to “steal” the recipe for this countercurrent “Norma” from Pietro D’Agostino. Here you go!
AGNOLOTTI FUORI DALLA NORMA
Preparation For pasta Arrange the flours in a heap, add the eggs and oil in the center, and knead until the mixture is firm and homogeneous. Form a sphere, cover with cling film and let it rest for 30 minutes. For the filling Wash and trim the aubergines; with a potato peeler remove half the peel and cut the pulp into cubes. In a pan heat abundant oil and fry the eggplant cubes; when they are golden brown, drain and let them dry on absorbent kitchen paper. Salt. In a bowl, collect the aubergines and add the grated ricotta and the chopped basil. Season with salt and pepper and mix. After the resting time, roll out the dough until you get a thin sheet. On half the pastry, arrange the stuffing nuts (at regular intervals of 4-5 cm), cover with the other part of the pastry, seal and cut with a round pastry cutter. For the sauce Cut the tomatoes, remove seeds and blend with basil. In a pan, brown the garlic with a drizzle of oil, the fresh tomato puree and cook over a high flame. Season with basil and season with salt and pepper. At the same time prepare a fonduta (fondue) of Parmesan cheese by cooking cream and grated Parmesan cheese over a low flame. Boil the agnolotti in lightly salted water, drain and transfer them to the pan with the sauce. Let them jump for a few minutes, being careful not to break them, and serve. Decorate with a drizzle of parmesan fonduta and sprinkle with grated ricotta salata.
Spaccanapoli is a colorful journey through beauty, taste and … the unmistakable scent of pizza! An itinerary that, in my opinion, is the soul of Naples, its essence and all its lively Neapolitan reality.
You are ready? Let’s go! For this new adventure I let myself be accompanied by Gennaro Buonocore (already the name is a guarantee …) Neapolitan doc and a very special guide at the helm of mytriptonaples.com which organizes tours to discover the beauty, the taste and the secrets that this magical city can offer.
So, do you want to make a REAL napolean pizza? Who better than the Piazza Verace Napoli Association could tell me? Here is the original recipe handed down by generations of pizza makers. The diameter must not exceed 35cm. The raised edge (the famous cornicione ) must be about 1-2 cm, well swollen and free from burns. The Neapolitan pizza must be soft and fragrant.
Ingredients water: 1 liter salt: 40-60 gr yeast: of fresh beer 0.1-3 gr, mother 5-20% of the flour used of dry beer 1 to 3 ratio compared to fresh beer flour: 1.6-1.8 kg (00 or 0 flour)
Preparation Flour, water, salt and yeast are mixed, starting with the water, making sure that direct contact between salt and yeast does not occur for more than 5 minutes, otherwise the salt would damage the yeast cells. Pour a liter of water into the mixer, dissolve a quantity of sea salt between 40 and 60 g, add 10% of the flour with respect to the total quantity envisaged, then dissolve the yeast, start the mixer and the rest of the flour is gradually added until the desired consistency is reached, defined as the dough point.
The dough must be worked in the fork, spiral, plunging arm mixer (all with rounded corner and rotating basket) until a single compact mass is obtained. To obtain an optimal consistency of the dough, the amount of water that a flour is able to absorb (hydration) is very important. Leavening and maturation The dough, once extracted from the mixer, is left to rest covered with a damp cloth so that the surface cannot harden, forming a sort of crust caused by the evaporation of the humidity released by the dough itself. After the time deemed necessary to settle and rest the dough, the dough is molded, traditionally done by hand.
In the Neapolitan technique, in the traditional hand staglio, the dough is shaped (staglio) in the form of balls with a technique that recalls the preparation of mozzarella (mozzatura). For the “true Neapolitan pizza” the loaves must have a weight between 200 and 280 g, to obtain a pizza with a diameter between 22 – 35 cm. Once the loaves are formed (staglio), a second leavening takes place in food boxes of varying duration, depending on the temperature and humidity characteristics of the environment and the absorption of the flour used. Maturation consists of a series of biochemical and enzymatic processes that break down the most complex structures, proteins and starches into simpler elements. Overall fermentation times: min 8 – max 24 hours (with the possible addition of processing hours – max 4 hours). How to roll out the pizza With a movement from the center outwards and with the pressure of the fingers of both hands on the dough, which is turned several times, the pizza maker forms a disc of dough so that in the center the thickness is not more than 0.25 cm with a allowed tolerance of ± 10%. The toppings The products used must preferably be of Campania origin. The hand-crushed peeled tomato must be not dense and with pieces still present. Fresh tomatoes should be cut into wedges. The buffalo mozzarella (cut into slices) or the fior di latte (cut into strips) must be distributed evenly. The grated cheese (if used) should be spread on the pizza with a uniform and rotating motion. Fresh basil leaves are placed on the seasonings. The extra virgin olive oil is added with a spiral movement. The cooking Cooking must take place inside a wood oven which must have reached a temperature of about 430-480 ° C between the stalls and the vault. With these temperatures it is sufficient to insert the pizza for 60-90 seconds, in which the pizza will cook evenly over the entire circumference.
ENJOY YOUR PIZZA!
ITALIAN VERSION
Spaccanapoliè un colorato percorso tra il bello, il gusto e… l’inconfondibile profumo della pizza! Un itinerario che, secondo me, è l’anima di Napoli, la sua essenza e tutta la sua vivace realtà partenopea.
Siete pronti? Partiamo!
Per questa nuova avventura mi sono fatto accompagnare da Gennaro Buonocore (già il nome è una garanzia…) napoletano doc e guida davvero speciale al timone di mytriptonaples.com che organizza tour alla scoperta del bello, del gusto e dei segreti che questa città magica può regalare.
Prima sosta il Belvedere di San Martino, dove è possibile ammirare la città dall’alto. Dalla collina del Vomero inoltriamoci nel colorato mercato della Pignasecca, percorrendo le scale della Pedamentina arriviamo nei caratteristici Quartieri Spagnoli.
Incrociamo via Toledo fino al meraviglioso Palazzo Carafa di Maddaloni. All’improvviso, il tortuoso itinerario prende respiro e sfocia nella Piazza del Gesù. Se siete appassionati di cinema, riconoscerete la facciata del Palazzo Pandola ha fatto da set L’oro di Napoli e Matrimonio all’italiana di Vittorio De Sica con la più grande diva napoletana: Sofia Loren.
Sofia Loren e Marcello Mastroianni in una scena tratta dal film Matrimonio all’italiana girata a Palazzo Pandola. Sullo sfondo si vede Piazza del Gesù Nuovo
Nella Piazza troneggiano la Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo e l’Obelisco dell’Immacolata, avvolto da un’aura leggendaria… infatti, grazie ad un gioco di luci ed ombre, permette di intravedere l’immagine della morte! Meglio fare un salto al vicino Scaturchio, la più rinomata pasticceria napoletana: babà, pastiera, sfogliatelle, struffoli, zeppe di San Giuseppe…. Dimentichiamoci la dieta….
I famosi dolci di Scaturchio
Da qui il primo tratto che incrociamo è Via Benedetto Croce, celebre filosofo che visse nel Palazzo Filomarino che potrete ammirare lungo la strada. Sosta d’obbligo, il Monastero di Santa Chiara, con il suo splendido Chiostro maiolicato, un’ oasi di pace ricoperta da maioliche multicolore.
Il Monastero di Santa Chiara
Lungo questo percorso sono sorti piccoli hotel e bed and breakfast, che permettono ai turisti di vivere Napoli proprio come fanno i napoletani. Tra questi consiglio il 4 stelle Santa Chiara Boutique Hotel situato al piano nobile di Palazzo Tufarelli, dimora storica del XVII secolo.
Nelle 7 suites e 3 glam room, il classico degli affreschi incontra un design moderno e confortevole, le finestre si affacciano sulla città, un attento restauro ha conservato molte delle caratteristiche di questo magnifico edificio (soffitti con travi originali, splendide porte dipinte, finestre alte, pavimenti in cotto antico) mentre un mix di mobili antichi e contemporanei uniti ai comfort di oggi , lo rendono aggiornato e accogliente.
Boutique Hotel Santa Chiara
Qui il breakfast è, per dirlo alla napoletana, “nu babà”! Ho trovato tutte le prelibatezze della pasticceria napoletana, incluse le torte e le sfogliatelle di Scaturchio, accompagnate da altre squisitezze dolci e salate, oltre a frutta freschissima, uova e omelettes a richiesta.
Delizie mattiniere del Santa Chiara Hotel. A sinistra il Danubio, un pan brioche al prosciutto e formaggio
Dopo pochi passi si arriva in Piazza San Domenico caratterizzata dalla guglia, costruita lì dove un giorno sorgeva uno degli ingressi alla città greco-romana. Da qui, percorrendo la salita accanto alla piazza, arriviamo a uno dei luoghi più misteriosi della cirttà: la Cappella Sansevero che conserva all’interno il celebre Cristo Velato, opera scultorea di Giuseppe Sanmartino, che rappresenta Cristo morto, adagiato su un letto, coperto da un velo di marmo talmente realistico da sembrare vero.
Il Cristo Velato
A pochi passi vi aspettano due piccoli gioielli, la Chiesa di Sant’Angelo e la scultura del Dio Nilo, raffigurato come un vecchio che appoggia i piedi sulla testa di un coccodrillo. Subito dopo incontrerete un altarino dedicato a Maradona, dove una teca custodisce la foto di Maradona ed un suo capello.
Nel vicino vicolo, chiamato “vicut Cornelianus”, si trova la Chiesa di Santa Luciella, piccolo gioiello architettonico che, grazie all’Associazione Respiriamo Arte, è stata recentemente riaperta al pubblico. Nell’ipogeo è situato un raro esemplare di cranio con cartilagini mummificate, ribattezzato come il “teschio con le orecchie” La leggenda del teschio è legata al culto delle anime pezzentelle, ovvero senza una degna sepoltura, i cui scheletri venivano dimenticati nelle fosse comuni.
il “teschio con le orecchie”
Riprendiamo il cammino: la via cambia nome e diventa San Biagio dei Librai con il Palazzo Marigliano e il caratteristico cortile con la scala a doppia rampa.. Sosta d’obbligo alla Taralleria Napoletana di Leopoldo Infante, tempio del vero tarallo , un cibo “di recupero” nato a Napoli durante il ‘700, quando i fornai riutilizzavano gli avanzi della pasta di pane aggiungendo strutto di maiale e pepe, un cibo che arriva fino ai giorni nostri, nella sua veste originale, con sugna, pepe e mandorle fino alle varianti con pomodori o friarielli.
Qui non mancano le curiosità come l’ Ospedale delle Bambole, una bottega che dal 1840 è capace di ‘guarire’ le bambole rotte. E’ un negozio che riceve richieste da tutto il mondo e che aiuta tutti i vecchi giocattoli a ritrovare l’antica bellezza. Entrerete: in luogo irreale popolato da teste, braccia, piedi, occhi, un’interna anatomia delle bambole, alcune in cura da molti giorni, altre solo di passaggio.
Incrociamo Via San Gregorio Armeno, famosa in tutto il mondo per le statuine, da quelle del Presepe ai vip di oggi… e non mancano le star dello sport e della musica, e dell’attualità, da Bruno Vespa, al Papa, a Pino Daniele a Renato Zero.
”O’ Cuzzetiello”, Uno snack? Macchè….”O’ Cuzzetiello” , è davvero un pasto completo, concentrato in un piccolo pezzo di pane cafone servito con il tradizionale ragù. Ci riporta al rituale culinario della domenica e un appuntamento per i più golosi. Anche nelle strade dove oggi viene proposto come “Street Food”…
Voglia di cioccolato? Quasi 100 anni fa, Isidoro Odin, cioccolatiere di Alba, partì alla conquista di Napoli con tanta voglia di sperimentare, di regalare emozioni ed esperienze memorabili attraverso le sue creazioni. E ci è riuscito. Dalla bottega di Via Chiaia alla fabbrica di Cioccolato, oggi Gay Odin è considerate il paradiso del cioccolato vanta ben 9 punti vendita.
Alla fine di Via San Biagio dei Librai incrociamo via Duomo e poi Piazzetta Forcella in uno dei più autentici quartieri napoletani dove si può ammirare il volto di San Gennaro del famoso street artist Jorit. Spaccanapoli termina qui, ma sono certo che le vostre avventure e i vostri racconti “spaccanapoletani” continueranno….
Il murale di San Gennaro di Jorit Agoch
La pizza più buona? Ho provato a chiedere in giro quale fosse la migliore pizzeria rischiando di sollevare una guerra civile… Chi diceva un nome, chi controbatteva con un altro indirizzo, chi mi diceva da Gennaro, chi da Michele… Consigliatissime anche Vesi e La Figlia del Presidente, storiche pizzerie di Spaccanapoli
Insomma, dopo un buona mezzora di indagini, ho tirato le somme e mi sono infilato nella più ‘gettonata’: Lombardi a Santa Chiara, e non ho sbagliato! Nata nel 1922, la pizza di Lombardi è stata servita a personaggi illustri come Gabriele D’Annunzio, Matilde Serao, Salvatore Di Giacomo e Benedetto Croce che abitava proprio di fronte alla pizzeria, Lombardi continua a celebrare l’ illustre storia della pizza con farine attentamente selezionate e topping realizzati con ricercate materie prime, dal San Marzano Dop alla mozzarella di bufala campana Dop, mentre ogni mese arriva “La pizza del mese” che segue il ritmo delle stagioni. Al timone I maestri Pizzaioli Michele Lungo e Carmine Prisco che ci sorprendono con le loro pizze “gourmet” come l’ultimissima “new entry” alla pancetta, fichi e gorgonzola.
Una pizza “gourmet” di Lombardi: crema di zucchine, chip di zucchine, prosciutto cotto croccante, basilico cristallizzato, fonduta di bufala
Il bello , il gusto e… la pizza! Weekend a SPACCANAPOLI, la strada verace che “spacca in due” la città.
Come si prepara una Vera Pizza Napoletana ? Chi meglio della Associazione Piazza Verace Napoli poteva dirmelo? Ecco la ricetta originale tramandata da generazioni di pizzaioli. Il diametro non deve superare i 35cm Il bordo rialzato (il famoso cornicione) deve essere di circa 1-2 cm, ben gonfio e privo di bruciature La pizza napoletana deve essere morbida e fragrante.
Ingredienti acqua: 1 litro sale: 40-60 gr lievito: di birra fresco 0.1-3 gr, madre 5-20% della farina utilizzata di birra secco rapporto 1 a 3 rispetto al fresco farina: 1,6-1,8 kg (farina 00 o 0)
Preparazione Si mescolano farina, acqua, sale e lievito, partendo dall’acqua assicurandosi che il contatto diretto tra sale e lievito non avvenga per un tempo superiore ai 5 minuti, altrimenti il sale andrebbe a danneggiare le cellule del lievito. Si versa un litro di acqua nell’impastatrice, si scioglie una quantità di sale marino compresa tra i 40 e i 60 g, si aggiunge il 10 % della farina rispetto alla quantità complessiva prevista, successivamente si stemperano il lievito, si avvia l’impastatrice e si aggiunge gradualmente il resto della farina fino al raggiungimento della consistenza desiderata, definita punto di pasta.
L’impasto deve essere lavorato nell’impastatrice a forcella, a spirale, a braccia tuffanti (tutte con cestello ad angoli smussati e rotante) fino a che non si ottiene un’unica massa compatta. Per ottenere un’ottimale consistenza dell’impasto è molto importante la quantità d’acqua che una farina è in grado di assorbire (idratazione). Lievitazione e maturazione L’impasto, una volta estratto dall’impastatrice, si lascia riposare coperto da un panno umido in modo che la superficie non possa indurirsi formando una sorta di crosta causata dall’evaporazione dell’umidità rilasciata dall’impasto stesso. Trascorso il tempo ritenuto necessario all’assestamento e al riposo dell’impasto, si passa alla formatura del panetto, tradizionalmente eseguita a mano.
Nella tecnica napoletana, nello staglio tradizionale a mano, l’impasto viene sagomato (staglio) sotto forma di palline con una tecnica che ricorda la preparazione delle mozzarelle (mozzatura). Per la “verace pizza napoletana” i panetti devono avere un peso compreso tra i 200 ed i 280 g, per ottenere una pizza di diametro tra 22 – 35 cm. Una volta formati i panetti (staglio), avviene una seconda lievitazione in cassette per alimenti di durata variabile, in funzione delle caratteristiche di temperatura e umidità dell’ambiente e dell’assorbimento della farina utilizzata. La maturazione consiste in una serie di processi biochimici e enzimatici che scindono le strutture più complesse, proteine e amidi in elementi più semplici. I tempi complessivi di fermentazione: min 8 – max 24 ore (con eventuale aggiunta delle ore di lavorazione – max 4 ore). Come stendere la pizza Con un movimento dal centro verso l’esterno e con la pressione delle dita di entrambe le mani sul panetto, che viene rivoltato varie volte, il pizzaiolo forma un disco di pasta in modo che al centro lo spessore sia non superiore a 0.25 cm con una tolleranza consentita pari a ± 10 % . I condimenti I prodotti utilizzati devono essere preferibilmente di origine campana. Il pomodoro pelato frantumato a mano deve risultare non denso e con pezzi ancora presenti. Il pomodoro fresco va tagliato a spicchi. La mozzarella di bufala ( tagliata a fette) o il fior di latte (tagliato a listelli) vanno distribuiti uniformemente. Il formaggio grattugiato (se usato) va sparso sulla pizza con movimento rotatorio e uniforme. Le foglie di basilico fresco sono poste sui condimenti. L’olio extravergine di oliva viene aggiunto con movimento a spirale. La cottura La cottura deve avvenire all’interno del forno a legna che deve aver raggiunto la temperatura di circa 430-480 C° tra platea e volta. Con queste temperature è sufficiente inserire la pizza per 60-90 secondi, in cui la pizza si cuocerà in maniera uniforme su tutta la circonferenza.
Certainly its charm is comparable to the Goddess of Beauty that the legend says was born in the sea. The story goes that the model who posed for Botticelli’s famous painting was Simonetta Vespucci, a beautiful local noblewoman, whom the painter fell in love with and painted in the background of the Gulf. Legend or reality, this Gulf has certainly inspired great artists, great poets and historical figures who chose to live in its fascinating villages. In 1762 Giacomo Casanova, coming by sea from Genoa, wanted to stop in Lerici in 1762. while the intriguing Countess of Castiglione, the first “influencer” in the Italian Risorgimento, lived in a luxurious building in the heart of Spezia.
The Golfo is feattured in poems by Lord Byron, Giosuè Carducci, Gabriele D’Annunzio, the writers George Sand and Virginia Woolf, the writers Charles Dickens, David Lawrence, Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife Mary, author of “Frankestein”. There is no shortage of great musicians: Felix Mendelssohn was enchanted by the Gulf, while Richard Wagner stayed in La Spezia where he found inspiration for the prelude of Das Rheingold.
Il monumento a Wagner a La Spezia
At the end of the Gulf we find Porto Venere whose name derives from the goddess Venus who, according to tradition, was born from the foam of the sea. On the opposite side rises Lerici, a suggestive vertical village, colored in yellow and orange tones.
Lerici
Among the most suggestive villages you ‘ll discover Tellaro and Fiascherino, considered among the most beautiful in Italy. Taking the panoramic road, which winds through the olive groves, we reach Montemarcello, a tiny medieval center of rare elegance, where time seems to have stopped.
Tellaro
f you love walking, we suggest the path that goes down from Montemarcello to Punta Corvo. A succession of enchanted coves, reachable on foot or by boat, where you can relax with a splendid view of the Ligurian Sea.
La Spezia stands out right In the center of the Gulf. Spezia is one of the main arsenals of the Italian Navy and an important merchant port. In the landscape there are villages, medieval churches and castles on the sea, sandy beaches and pastel-colored houses. Two important sporting events take place here: the Palio del Golfo, a rowing competition between the 13 villages of the Gulf and the Byron Cup for swimming in the open sea, while every 13 September, the patron saint of San Venerio is celebrated with an evocative pilgrimage to his sanctuary on the island of Tino.
To be seen Palazzo delle Poste Mosaic delle Comunicazioni.
Mosaico delle Comunicazioni
Castle San Giorgio,
Daniel Buren arcades Fontana del Dialogo
A cyclist’s paradise Two-wheel enthusiasts will be able to discover enchanting landscapes that see a succession of seaside villages and marinas, medieval churches and castles overlooking the sea, sandy beaches and pastel-colored houses. On the routes of the GF Tarros-Montura to savor the beauties of the Cinque Terre and the coast of La Spezia. The climbs are often tough, but nature and views reward the effort … Once you arrive, you can visit the town and have a food tasting by the sea and then continue the adventure inland.
In Spezia there is even the “Adriano Ciuffini” Cycling Museum …featuring memorabilia, , newspapers, posters and an extraordinary collection of the Maglia Rosa worn by cycling champions.
Il Museo del Ciclismo a La Spezia
Biassa, a gem We discover this small village of only 600 residents, an ups and downs of stone alleys and stone houses, some still with the furnishings of their grandparents. The history of Biassa is closely linked to that of Tramonti, a land on the ridge overlooking the sea, characterized by dry stone walls and small farms planted with vineyards.
This territory has found one of the greatest singers in Giancarlo Natale, narrator of the arduous toil, of the secular tenacity, but also of the joy of living in this village. A magical and timeless place, where the director CarloAlberto Biazzi recently set the story of his new short film Al di là del mare, a poetic and dramatic story shot between Biassa and Lerici, passing through the woods of the Telegraph hill.
Al di là del mare (Beyond the sea) tells of a child who loses his father and, through his grandfather’s fairy tales, manages to find the courage to go looking for him. Set immediately after the war, the film is a tribute to memory and the importance of the relationship between generations.
Girato nel borgo di Biassa, “Al di là del mare” racconta l’importanza dei sogni, dei ricordi, delle speranze e del perdono.
The cuisine of the Gulf The “La Spezia” gastronomy, rich in flavors, aromas and genuine dishes, is the living testimony of seafaring and peasant life. A straightforward cuisine, based on poor ingredients wisely mixed together: shellfish, vegetables and wild herbs and of course, the fish that characterizes the different locations, such as the Tellaro octopus, seasoned with chopped parsley, garlic and olive oil, while in the center of the gulf, Spezia responds with gianchetti or whitebait, just slightly boiled and accompanied with olive oil.
Trattorie, locande, osterie e … un tocco gourmet
La Pia, Spezia Her farinotto has been a city institution since 1887 that Mrs Pia opened for the sale of farinata, focaccia and chestnut cake; food for the “poor people”: workers, unskilled workers, carters, artisans the city was full of. With her simple and authentic recipes such as “‘n toco de fugaza, na feta de faina’ or nafeta de patona” Pia begins its escalation and today is present in 4 stores: at the Kennedy Center, in Sarzana, at the Port Mirabello, in Monterosso and launches abroad to conquer London.
La leggendaria farinata della Pia
Osteria da Gianni , Spezia A real tavern, from a vintage sign to paper tablecloths. Ideal destination to taste the “spezzina” soup par excellence: meshuà with chickpeas, cannellini beans and spelled, sprinkled with the delicate local extra virgin olive oil, fruit of the Razzola and Pignola varieties
Da Gianni: la meshuà
La Locanda del Gallese, Biassa Historic dish: panigacci, flour wafers that are cooked in the oven in the typical terracotta textures, also prepared as an accompaniment to bring to the table, but which combined with cold cuts, white cheeses, sauces and ragù can become real main courses.
i panigacci
La Chioccia d’Oro, in the ancient city of Luni, formerly Portus Lunae, a stone’s throw from the imposing Roman Amphitheater whose external front was partially covered in marble defined by the Romans “mantle of the Moon on the earth” and, thanks to the reconstructions that we find in the Museum, to imagine the resplendent architectural gem resplendent of marble that was Portus Lunae.
L’anfiteatro di Luni rappresenta il calco in miniatura dei grandi anfiteatri di epoca classica e conserva basi in muratura per statue, affreschi e suggestivi mosaiciLe carni e lev erdure Km.0 della Chioccia d’Oro
Trattoria I Contadini, Spezia Popular, busy and exquisite local cuisine. In season, the chefs Massimiliano and Paolo Vannucci offer real Sardine Days, which are cooked in many different ways, in frying, in pies, or stuffed in the oven. On the menu stand out the “La spezzina” ravioli filled with beef, pork, sausage, chard and thyme, tagliolini with seafood and the traditional savory rice cake.
Piatti della tradizione “spezzina” a I Contadini
Top dish: stuffed muscoli. (they areactually “mussels”, but here they are called “muscles”) We are talking about a traditional dish of La Spezia cuisine, a tasty tomato sauce in which the mussels raised in the numerous nurseries of the gulf are pampered and which in these parts are called strictly ‘muscles’.
Massimilano e Paolo Vannucci, al timone della Trattoria I Contadini e il loro irresistibile piatto di “muscoli”
Andree gourmet restaurant in the heart of Spezia, rightly reported by the Michelin Guide. A dip in an elegant environment, within the historic walls of a medieval building, formerly the Monastery of S. Andrea, now personalized by a refined design and well-kept details. The cuisine of Chef Andrea M Besana is capable of combining seasonal raw materials and traditional recipes, with contemporary techniques. “Here isn’t much about cooking the local cuisine, Andrea specifies, but rather cooking”with” the local products”.
Chef Andrea Besana e il suo riso e acciughe salate, broccoli, pinoli, pomodori confit
Among the top first courses, rice with salted anchovies and those pine nuts that “I collected from the pines when I was a child” the Chef remembers smiling, Felicetti linguine with scallops, two types of pumpkin, butternut and delica for a balanced sweetness with the intense “Torta della Val di Vara” cheese, thyme powdered.
Nei piatti di Besana tutto può succedere , la trota della Lunigiana incontra il caco
With a tender “remembering” of his childhood, Andrea brings us back to the traditional rice and milk of mother and grandmother “A reassuring food, adds Andrea, a hug, a comfort zone, which I wanted to strengthen with a chamomile sorbet and a cocoa waffle “
Il dessert “relax”di riso e latte con sorbetto alla camomilla
What in the glass? Of course an excellent Vermentino! … But let’s take a step back in history, let’s go back to Luni, where the Etruscans began the cultivation of the vine, followed by the Ligurians, the Romans until today. For five generations this art has been carried on by Cantine Lunae by its founder, Paolo Bosoni and his son Diego in the name of family tradition, with the creation of some of the best white, red and Vermentino wines of the entire region.
Vini eccellenti da cinque generazioni… e la storia continua: Paolo Bosoni e suo figlio Diego.
From the Lunae production we like to point out the Albarola, Nektar and Niccolo V. and obviously the Vermentino Lunae, one of the spearheads of Paolo Bosoni’s cellar. Visit the Museum where you can learn about the path that led the Lunae cellars to today’s success, pwr finre in a sumptuous wine shop where you can taste the production and buy exclusive products
Dove dormire
Ville Relais on the first hill outside Spezia, in a splendid panoramic position on the western side of the Gulf, a few km from 5 Terre, Lerici, Portovenere and the city itself, dominating over the fishing village of Cadimare, a restaurant run by Chef Besana, therefore a guarantee .
Le Ville Relais
Pietra di Mare Guest House in the heart of Borgo Biassa. You will discover it after climbing 120 steps that cross the village. Pietra di Mare offers different accommodations, all treated with love and comfort, starting with sweets and coffee in the room, the terrace with a view or the balcony overlooking the village and a stretch of sea of the Gulf of La Spezia, bordered behind it by the frame of the Apuan Alps with their famous white marble quarries. Enchanting!
Pietra di Mare
La Casina Rossa Five cozy rooms on the terrace of the Trattoria I Contadini and managed by the unstoppable “landlady” Sabrina Vannucci who, with the same passion with which she takes care of the Trattoria, manages these spacious accommodations equipped with every comfort, including a spectacular “panoramic” shower for two. people and the surprising welcome spritz, accompanied by delicious anchovy canapes and stockfish and grouper mousse. Mmmmmmm .. .
Quando il viaggio inizia alla grande: lo spritz di benvento della Casina Rossa
La Casina Rossa houses a well-known restaurant that offers characteristic La Spezia dishes including the spectacular stuffed “muscles” (don’t call them “mussels”), perhaps the most representative fish recipe of the Gulf. At the helm we find two brothers, Massimiliano and Paolo Vannucci, who I couldn’t help but “steal” the recipe for this iconic dish. Finally we send to you the best wishes for Happy Holidays from the stunning Manarola Nativity scene. A work designed and built by Mario Andreoli. It covers the entire hill with miles of electrical cables and hundreds of life-size figures that give life to the spectacular nativity scene, considered the largest in the world.
Il Presepe luminoso di Manarola
STUFFED MUSCLES , ” ALLA SPEZZINA” STYLE
Ingredients for 10 people 5 kg muscles 1.5 kg mortadella 150 grams grated cheese 7 eggs 4 tablespoons of parsley 1 small onions blonde oil 3 cans of 500 grams of tomato sauce 2 sandwiches garlic Preparation Put a little oil in a large pan, add the finely chopped onion, three tablespoons of parsley and brown. Add the tomato and cook for 30 minutes. In the meantime, clean the muscles, remove the external mustache and with the help of a knife open them and put them in a colander. Put the mortadella in the mixer and chop finely. Put the remaining garlic and parsley in a bowl, add the eggs, grated cheese and the bread soaked in water, well squeezed. Knead with your hands to mix well. Fill the muscles making sure they do not open. Once finished, put them in the pan with the sauce and cook for about forty minutes.
Di certo il suo fascino è paragonabile alla Dea della Bellezza che la leggenda dice essere nata proprio nel mare. La storia racconta che la modella che posò per il celebre dipinto del Botticelli fosse Simonetta Vespucci, una bellissima nobildonna del luogo, di cui il pittore si era innamorato e aveva dipinto sullo sfondo del Golfo.
Leggenda o realtà, di certo questo Golfo ha ispirato grandi artisti, sommi poeti e personaggi storici che scelsero di vivere nei suoi affascinanti borghi. Nel 1762 Giacomo Casanova, provenendo via mare da Genova volle sostare a Lerici nel 1762. mentre l’intrigante Contessa di Castiglione, prima “influencer” nel Risorgimento Italiano, abitava in un lussuoso palazzo nel cuore di Spezia.
Del Golfo scrissero i poeti Lord Byron,Giosuè Carducci, Gabriele D’Annunzio, le scrittrici George Sand e Virginia Woolf, gli scrittori Charles Dickens,David Lawrence, Percy Bysshe Shelley e sua moglie Mary, autrice di “Frankestein”.Non mancano grandi musicisti: Felix Mendelssohn rimase incantato dal Golfo, mentre Richard Wagner soggiornò a La Spezia dove trovò ispirazione per il preludio de L’Oro del Reno.
Il monumento a Wagner a La Spezia
Tanti nomi illustri, fino ai giorni nostri, da Mario Soldati a Pier Paolo Pasolini, a Indro Montanelli al Premio Nobel Eugenio Montale, senza tralasciare il Futurista Filippo Tommaso Marinetti vero artista “punk”dell’inizio ‘900, che lo definì Golfo delle meraviglie, influenzadone stili e architetture. In suo onore, nella Piazza Brin, spicca la Fontana Futurista, quasi in totem allegorico che sorge da un mare psichedelico…
Alle estremità del Golfo troviamo Porto Venere il cui nome derivava dalla dea Venere che, secondo la tradizione, sarebbe nata dalla spuma del mare. Dal lato opposto sorge Lerici, suggestivo borgo verticale, colorato di toni gialli e arancioni.
Lerici
Trai borghi più suggestivi Tellaro e Fiascherino, considerati tra i più belli d’Italia. Prendendo la strada panoramica, che si snoda tra gli uliveti, giungiamo a Montemarcello, minuscolo centro medievale di rara eleganza, dove semba che il tempo si sia fermato.
Tellaro
Se ami camminare, suggeriamo il sentiero che da Montemarcello scende a Punta Corvo. Un susseguirsi di calette incantate, raggiungibili a piedi o in battello, dove potrairilassarsi con una splendida vista sul mar Ligure.
Al centro del Golfo primeggia La Spezia, uno dei principali arsenali della Marina Militare italiana e importante porto mercantile. Nel paesaggio si susseguono borghi, chiese e castelli medievali sul mare, spiagge di sabbia e case color pastello.
Una suggestiva visione del porto di Spezia, tra mare e monti
Qui si svolgono due importanti manifestazioni sportive: il Palio del Golfo, gara di remi fra le 13 borgate del Golfo e la Coppa Byron di nuoto in mare aperto, mentre ogni 13 Settembre, si festeggia il Patrono San Venerio con un suggestivo pellegrinaggio fino al suo santuario sull’isola del Tino.
Passeggiando per il centro della città scoprirete palazzi, portali, vetrate e fregi in stile liberty, mentre l’impronta futurista, presieduta dal fondatore Marinetti, si manifesta in rigorosi edifici, tra cui il Palazzo delle Poste che all’interno conserva il dinamico Mosaico delle Comunicazioni.
Mosaico delle Comunicazioni
Merita una visita il Castello di San Giorgio, fortezza situata sulla collina del Poggio a dominio del golfo della Spezia e testimone della vicende storiche della città. All’interno ospita il Museo Archeologico “U. Formentini” che comprende reperti dalla Preistoria al Medioevo. .
Non mancano opere contemporane (piuttosto contestate) come il susseguirsi delle arcate di Daniel Buren, artista francese famoso per le sue installazioni e la Fontana del Dialogo che per la sua forma tondeggiante viene scherzosamente soprannominata “Fontana del sedere” E devo ammettere che il richiamo c’è…
Paradiso dei ciclisti Gli appassionati delle due ruote potranno scoprire paesaggi incantevoli che vedono susseguirsi borghi marini e porticcioli, chiese e castelli medievali a picco sul mare, spiagge di sabbia e case color pastello. Sui percorsi della GF Tarros-Montura per assaporare le bellezze delle Cinque Terre e del litorale spezzino. Le salite sono spesso dure, ma natura e panorami premiano lo sforzo… Una volta arrivati potrete visitare il paese e fare una degustazione di cibo in riva al mare per poi continuare l’avventura nell’entroterra.
Scopriamo questo piccolo borgo di soli 600 residenti, un saliscendi di vicoli in sasso e case in pietra, alcune ancora con gli arredi dei nonni. La storia di Biassa è strettamente legata a quella di Tramonti, terra sul crinale a strapiombo sul mare, caratterizzata da muretti a secco e piccoli poderi coltivati a vigneti.
Questo territorio ha trovato uno dei maggiori cantori in Giancarlo Natale, narratore della fatica impervia, della tenacia secolare, ma anche della gioia di abitare questo borgo. Un luogo magico e fuori del tempo, dove il regista CarloAlberto Biazzi ha recentemente ambientato la storia del suo nuovo cortometraggio Al di là del mare, un racconto poetico e drammatico girato tra Biassa e Lerici, passando per i boschi del colle del Telegrafo.
Al di là del mare narra di un bambino che perde il padre e, attraverso i racconti favolistici del nonno, riesce a trovare il coraggio di andare a cercarlo. Ambientato nell’immediato dopoguerra, il film è un omaggio alla memoria e all’importanza del rapporto fra generazioni.
Girato nel borgo di Biassa, “Al di là del mare” racconta l’importanza dei sogni, dei ricordi, delle speranze e del perdono.
La cucina del Golfo
La gastronomia “spezzina”, ricca di sapori, profumi e piatti genuini, è la viva testimonianza della vita marinara e contadina. Una cucina schietta, basata su ingredienti poveri sapientemente mischiati tra di loro: crostacei, verdure ed erbe spontanee e, naturalmente, il pesce che caratterizza le diverse località, come il polipo di Tellaro, condito con prezzemolo tritato, aglio e olio d’oliva, mentre nel centro del golfo, Spezia risponde con i gianchetti o bianchetti, bolliti appena appena e accompagnati con olio d’oliva.
Trattorie, locande, osterie e … un tocco gourmet
La Pia, Spezia Il suo farinotto è un’istituzione cittadina dal 1887 che la Signora Pia apri per la vendita di farinata, di focaccia e castagnaccio; cibo per la “povera gente”: operai, manovali, carrettieri, artigiani di cui la città ne era piena. Con le sue ricette semplici e autentiche come “’n toco de fugaza, na feta de faina’o nafeta de patona” la Pia inizia la sua escalation e oggi è presente in ben 4 punti vendita: al Centro Kennedy, a Sarzana, al Porto Mirabello, a Monterosso e si lancia all’estero per conquistare Londra.
La leggendaria farinata della Pia
Osteria da Gianni , Spezia Osteria al 100%, dall’ insegna vintage, alle tovaglie di carta. Meta ideale per gustare la zuppa “spezzina” per eccellenza : la meshuà con ceci, fagioli cannellini e farro, irrorata dal delicato olio extravergine olio locale, frutto delle varietà Razzola e Pignola
Da Gianni: la meshuà
La Locanda del Gallese, Biassa Piatto storico: i panigacci, cialde di farina che vengono cotte in forno nei tipici testi di terracotta, preparati anche come accompagnamento da portare in tavola, ma che abbinati a salumi, formaggi bianchi, sughi e ragù possono diventare delle vere e proprie portate principali.
i panigacci
La Chioccia d’Oro, nell’ antica città di Luni , anticamente Portus Lunae, a due passi dall’ imponente Anfiteatro Romano il cui fronte esterno era parzialmente rivestito in marmo definito dai Romani “manto di Luna sulla terra” e, grazie alle ricostruzioni che troviamo nel Museo ad immaginare lo splendente gioiello architettonico splendente di marmo che era Portus Lunae.
L’anfiteatro di Luni rappresenta il calco in miniatura dei grandi anfiteatri di epoca classica e conserva basi in muratura per statue, affreschi e suggestivi mosaici
La Chioccia d’Oro propone una cucina casalinga, ricette tradizionali prevalentemente di terra, pasta fatta in casa come trofie, ravioli, pappardelle condite al sugo di cinghiale, oppure al cavolfiore e speck, coniglio alla cacciatora, maialino e arrosto di vitella…tutto di produzione propria, e si sente…
Le carni e lev erdure Km.0 della Chioccia d’Oro
Trattoria I Contadini, Spezia Popolare, affollato e squisita cucina locale. In stagione, i cuochi Massimiliano e Paolo Vannucci propongono delle vere e proprie Giornate della Sardina, che viene cucinata in tanti modi diversi, in frittura, nei tortini, oppure ripiena al forno. Nel menu spiccano i ravioli “alla spezzina” con ripieno di carne di manzo, maiale, salsiccia, bietola e timo, i tagliolini ai frutti di mare e la tradizionale torta di riso salata.
Piatti della tradizione “spezzina” a I Contadini
Cavallo di battaglia: i muscoli ripieni (e non chiamateli “cozze”…) Stiamo parlando di un piatto tradizionale della cucina spezzina, un saporito sugo di pomodoro in cui si coccolano i mitili allevati nei numerosi vivai del golfo e che da queste parti si chiamano rigorosamente ‘muscoli’.
Massimilano e Paolo Vannucci, al timone della Trattoria I Contadini e il loro irresistibile piatto di “muscoli”
Lasciamo i ristoranti ruspanti per scoprire Andree locale gourmet nel cuore di Spezia, giustamente segnalato dalla Guida Michelin. Un tuffo in un ambiente elegante, tra le storiche mura di un palazzo medioevale, anticamente Monastero di S. Andrea, oggi personalizzato da un design raffinato e dettagli curatissimi. La cucina dello Chef Andrea M Besana è capace di coniugare materia prima stagionale e ricette tradizionali, con le tecniche contemporanee. “Non tanto cucina locale, precisa Andrea, ma piuttosto cucina “con” il prodotto locale.”
Chef Andrea Besana e il suo riso e acciughe salate, broccoli, pinoli, pomodori confit
Tra i primi piatti top, il riso con acciughine salate e quei pinoli che “raccoglievo dai pini, quand’ ero bambino” ricorda sorridendo lo Chef, le linguine Felicetti con cappesante, due tipi di zucca, butternut e delica per una dolcezza bilanciata con l’intenso gusto del formaggio “torta della Val di Vara”, mentre l’aroma è affidato a polvere di timo.
Nei piatti di Besana tutto può succedere , la trota della Lunigiana incontra il caco
Andrea rivela una mano attenta e leggera sia nel delicatissimo baccalà con patate fatte cuocere nel suo latte oppure nell’ insolita scelta di valorizzare la trota della Lunigiana che arricchisce con cime di rape, patate all’olio e un imprevedibile schizzo di cachi, esempio di quanto Andrea rispetti il territorio e ami riproporlo in veste nuova.
Andrea è di origine novarese, quindi un nativo del” triangolo del riso” anche nei dolci. Con un tenero “amarcord” della sua fanciullezza, ci riporta al tradizionale il riso e latte di mamma e nonna “Un cibo rassicurante, aggiunge Andrea, un abbraccio, una zona di tranquillità e conforto, che ho voluto rafforzare con un sorbetto alla camomilla e una cialda al cacao”
Il dessert “relax”di riso e latte con sorbetto alla camomilla
e nel calice ?….
Naturlamente un ottimo vermentino!… Ma facciamo un passo indietro nella storia, torniamo a Luni, dove furono gli Etruschi a iniziare la coltivazione della vite, seguiti dai Liguri, dai Romani fino a oggi. Da cinque generazioni quest’arte viene portata avanti dalle Cantine Lunae dal suo fondatore, Paolo Bosoni e da suo figlio Diego nel segno della tradizione di famiglia, con la creazione di alcuni dei migliori vini bianchi, rossi e vermentino dell’intera regione.
Vini eccellenti da cinque generazioni… e la storia continua: Paolo Bosoni e suo figlio Diego.
All’interno della Cà Lunae sono presenti anche altre due aree, quella della cantina, una vera e propria enoteca del Bosoni Lunae dove si possono trovare i migliori vini della produzione
Dalla produzione Lunae, l’Albarola, Il Nektar e ll Niccolo V. A destra il Vermentino Lunae, una delle punte di diamante della cantina di Paolo Bosoni
e il Museo dove si può conoscere il percorso che ha portato le cantine Lunae al successo odierno, pwr finre in un suntuoso wine shop dove si potrà degustare la produzione e acquistare prodotti esclusivi.
Dove dormire
Ville Relais sulla prima collina fuori Spezia, in una splendida posizione panoramica sul versante occidentale del Golfo, a pochi km dalle 5 Terre, Lerici, Portovenere e dalla stessa città, dominante sopra il borgo di pescatori di Cadimare, ristorante curato da Chef Besana, quindi una garanzia.
Le Ville Relais
Pietra di Mare Guest House nel cuore del borgo Biassa. La scoprirete dopo … 120 gradini comunque piacevoli che attraversano il paese. Pietra di Mare offre diversi alloggi, tutti curati con amore e confort, a cominciare dai dolcetti e caffè in camera, al terrazzo con vista o il balcone che domina il borgo ed uno specchio di mare del golfo della Spezia, delimitato alle sue spalle dalla cornice delle Alpi apuane con le loro famose cave di marmo bianco. Incantevole!
Pietra di Mare
La Casina Rossa Cinque accoglienti camere sul terrazzo della Trattoria I Contadini e gestite dall’ inarrestabile “affittacamere” Sabrina Vannucci che, con l’ identica passione con cui cura la Trattoria, gestisce questi spaziosi alloggi forniti di ogni confort, incluso una spettacolare doccia” panoramica” per due persone e il sorprendente spritz di benvenuto, accompagnato dalle squisite tartine di acciughe e mousse di stoccafisso e cernia. Mmmmmmm…
Quando il viaggio inizia alla grande: lo spritz di benvento della Casina Rossa
La Casina Rossa ospita un conosciuto ristorante che propone i piatti caratteristici spezzini tra cui gli spettacolari muscoli ripieni, forse la ricetta di pesce più rappresentativa del Golfo. Al timone troviamo due fratelli, Massimiliano e Paolo Vannucci, a cui non ho potuto fare a meno di ” rubare” la ricetta di questo piatto iconico. Buon appetito e auguri di Buone Feste dallo sbalorditivo Presepe di Manarola. Un’ opera progettata e costruita da Mario Andreoli. Copre l’intera collina con chilometri di cavi elettrici e centinaia figure a grandezza naturale che danno vita allo spettacolare presepe, considerato il più grande del mondo.
Il Presepe luminoso di Manarola
Ecco la ricetta ! MUSCOLI RIPIENI IN STILE “SPEZZINO”
Ingredienti per 10 persone 5 kg muscoli 1,5 kg mortadella 150 grammi formaggio grattugiato 7 uova 4 cucchiai di prezzemolo 1 cipolla piccola bionda olio 3 lattine da 500 grammi di passata di pomodoro 2 panini aglio Preparazione Mettere in un tegame capiente un po’ d’olio, aggiungere la cipolla tritata finemente, tre cucchiai di prezzemolo e fare rosolare. Aggiungere il pomodoro e farlo cuocere per curca 30 minuti . I Nel frattempo pulire i muscoli, togliere il baffo esterno e con l’aiuto di un coltello li aprirli e metterli in un colino. Mettere la mortadella nel mixer e tritarla finemente. Mettere in un recipiente, aggiungere uova, formaggio grattugiato e il pane bagnato nell’acqua ben strizzato, il restante aglio e prezzemolo. Impastare con le mani per amalgamare bene. Riempire i muscoli facendo attenzione che non si aprano. Una volta terminato, metteteli nel tegame con il sugo e fateli cuocere per una quarantina di minuti.
Let’s venture into a new itinerary of beauty and taste where we will discover food, wine, culture, history and environment… Welcome to Oltrepò Pavese!
The Oltrepò Pavese is located south of the river Po, in the area of the province of Pavia which extends as far as Liguria, touching the province of Piacenza to the east and the province of Alessandria. A territory that is worth discovering for its eno-gastronomic, cultural, religious, historical and even environmental attractions linked to an important biodiversity factor. Castles, parish churches, churches become unmissable stops for walks and excursions and for religious itineraries such as the Via degli Abati, the Via Francigena, the Via di San Colombano which develop in part on the territory.
Castello di Nazzano
It is a land of rolling hills covered with vineyards that produce excellent wines: Pinot Nero, Croatina, Barbera; the Riesling, the Buttafuoco, the Bonarda, the traditional Oltrepò wine and the sweet red Sangue di Giuda, His Majesty the Riesling, the still full-bodied but balanced red Casteggio, with violet reflections and aromas played on red fruits, while the Buttafuoco with a production of 70,000 bottles a year and represents a real rarity on a national level . The Consorzio Tutela Vini dell’ Oltrepò Paveseprotects and promotes the value of its important historical wine heritage, in a land that belongs to wine.
Buttafuoco
Some vineyards were planted in the lands of Oltrepo Pavese in the late nineteenth century, such as the cellars Sartieri which since then have been handed down in the Saviotti families. Having a Sartieri 1931 bottle on the table means, in addition to having an excellent ally for your dishes, rewarding a unique area rich in traditions such as that of Oltrepò, an area dedicated to the cultivation of vineyards for millennia.
“Première” Classic Method Sparkling Wine and “Allure” Rosé Classic Method Sparkling Wine; followed by Bonarda “Dama Célinde”, Riesling Renano “Zefir”, Cabernet Sauvignon “Madagascar”, Pinot Grigio “Caban”, Croatina “Suit”, Merlot “Figurino” and Barbera “Tuxedo”, in two versions, “Gold” (young ) and “Red” (aged).
Villages and castles Montesegale, Torre Degli AlberI, Zavattarello and Fortunago, perhaps the most characteristic San Ponzo, of medieval origin: very narrow streets and stone houses, are leaning against each other. It almost seems to be in a mountain town. Romagnese, whose tower houses the civic museum of peasant art. Not far away, in Alpino di Pietra Corva, a beautiful botanical garden with about 3,000 plant species.
Fortunago
Amazing castle such as Oramala, di Cigognola, di Nazzano e di Montalto
Castello di Montalto
Next stop: Varzi Here is a village that contains architectural jewels such as the Malaspina Castle, the Romanesque church of the Capuchins, the parish of San Germano and deserves a special mention for the artistic combination of art and street art, letting the Pavese artists use the shutters of the shops of the old town to paint their graffiti.
The products of the territory The famous peppers of Voghera, with a sweet and pleasant taste, the mustard of Voghera, a historical product, known as early as the 14th century, to accompany cheeses, mixed boiled meat, cotechino .. the Lungavilla cap pumpkin with the characteristic shape of a turban and green color -blue, an ideal ingredient for risotto. stuffed with ravioli and baked.
Zucca berrettina e peperoni di Voghera , due eccellenze del territorio
The “king of rice” Carnaroli: tenacious grain, pearly reflections, perfect cooking resistance and for centuries the protagonist of Lombard cuisine. The typical bread is miccone, in the shape of a plait with a thin crust and thick crumb. Pair it with salami, salad and bonarda: top snack!
In Varzi an excellence of Oltrepo Pavese is born: the salami of Varzi DOP, rigorously cut with a knife, crosswise. When matured correctly, especially in the summer months, it will be easy to notice the classic “drop” due to the melting of the fat.
il celebre salame di Varzi
Dolci
Almond cake A dessert is simple, dry and crumbly, tasty and nutritious. One of the favorite foods already in the twelfth century, at the court of the Malaspina. Donuts from Staghiglione Classic hole donuts. The recipe has been jealously guarded for three generations by the local bakery. The product dates back to the early 1800s and is characterized by a double cooking: the first in boiling water and the second in a wood oven after drying. .
le storiche ciambelle
Michelin Stars
I Castagni, Vigevano In the elegant farmhouse in the Vigevano countryside, we find the Chef Enrico Gerli, champion of a cuisine firmly linked to the traditional aspects of the territory to result in a reinterpretation that rewards the research and the gastronomic inspiration of the Chef who was able to create a “home for friends “, convivial and full of cordiality where you can taste superior dishes and wines.
.Villa Naj, Stradella Chef Alessandro Proietti Refrigeri landed in Oltrepò after significant and important experiences including Noma in Copenhagen working for two years alongside Renè Redzepi and La Pergola by Heinz Beck. With his experience and professionalism, in addition to his love for cooking, he is now at the helm of Villa Naj, where he involves many small local producers and gives an innovative touch to the excellent local raw materials. His book “Terra, Mare e Vegetali” has just been released, from which we have extrapolated a really top recipe.
Uno dei piatti che Chef Proietti Refrigeri racconta nel suo libro “Terra, Mare e Vegetali”
MEZZE MANICHE, BITTER HERBS EMULSION, ASH GOAT GOAT AND BLACK TRUFFLE
Ingrediants for 4 people 320 g of half sleeves, 200 g of dandelion, 150 g of wild chicory. 100 g of nettle. 150 g of catalonia, 100 g of turnip greens, 100 g of black truffle, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, 200 g of goat’s goat with ash from the Il Boscasso farm, 300 g of cream
Method Prepare the herbal emulsion, carefully cleaning the dandelion, field chicory, nettle (making sure to use gloves to avoid burns), catalonia and turnip greens; cook them in salted water for 4 minutes and then blend them adding a little cooking water, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper with the help of a food processor. Set aside a few whole dandelion leaves. Cut the goat cheese into cubes with all the crust; separately heat the cream and pour everything into the food processor, blending for 3 minutes; kept separately. Cook the pasta in salted water and, when it is al dente, pour it into a pan with a little oil and its cooking water: once cooked desired, turn off and add the bitter herb cream. Cream and serve by putting the goat cream with ash, the pasta, the sautéed dandelion leaves and only at the end a grating of fine black truffle
The perfect wine to pair To accompany the hints of dandelion, field chicory, nettle and ash of his dish, Alessandro recommends Pernice Conte Vistarino, a historically “noble” cru, having just the Count Carlo Vistarino brought the Pinot Noir cuttings from Burgundy around 1850. The Vistarino dynasty is today represented by Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, who lives the legacy of the company respecting its tradition and at the same time putting character, future and personality into it.
Hungry?
Let’s take a well-deserved stop in a typical tavern to enjoy free-range cuisine and local dishes, such as a risotto with salami paste, eye beans and Bonarda or cod with golden onion from Voghera and raisins. and finally a delicious pumpkin pie from Lungavilla. Here’s where to throw the eye …
Prato Gaio Montecalvo Versiggia Guallina, Mortara La verde sosta, Crocetta Osteria della Madonna da Peo , Pavia Il giarone , Rocca Susella Osteria del campanile, Torrazzacoste L’ustarua di giugaton , Battella Pappa e cena , Val di Nizza Buscone , Varzi Paradiso, Caseo-Canevino
Sisters … in the kitchen! In Rivanazzano we find Oasi Della Pace, a restaurant run by the Sisters of the Holy Rosary, Apostles of Labor. It is well known for the simplicity of its dishes, served in an environment where silence, peace and fresh air reign. The menu is fixed price and the success is stellar. Any particular ingredients? “Not at all, the Sisters say, the foods we use are simple and genuine. The real secret is love and patience. It doesn’t matter what you cook, but how you do it!”
The recipe by Alessandro Proietti Chef of Villa Naj, Michelin Star.
Avventuriamoci in un nuovo itinerario del bello e del gusto dove scopriremo cibo, vino, cultura, storia e ambiente
Benvenuti nell’Oltrepò Pavese! Ci troviamo a sud del fiume Po, nella zona della provincia di Pavia che si estende fino alla Liguria, toccando la provincia di Piacenza a est e la provincia di Alessandria. Un territorio che vale la pena di scoprire per le sue attrattive eno-gastronomiche, culturali, religiose, storiche ed anche ambientali legate ad un’importante fattore di biodiversità. Castelli, pievi, chiese divengono soste imperdibili per passeggiate ed escursioni e per percorsi religiosi come la Via degli Abati, la Via Francigena, la Via di San Colombano che si sviluppano in parte sul territorio.
Castello di Nazzano
E’ una terra di dolci colline ricoperte dai vigneti che producono vini eccellenti: Pinot Nero la Croatina il Barbera; il Riesling, Il Buttafuoco, la Bonarda, il vino dell’Oltrepò della tradizione e rosso dolce Sangue di Giuda, Sua Maestà il Riesling, il Casteggio rosso fermo corposo ma equilibrato, con riflessi violacei e profumi giocati sui frutti rossI, mentre il Buttafuoco con una produzione di 70.000 bottiglie l’anno e rappresenta una vera e propria rarità a livello nazionale. Il Consorzio Tutela Vini dell’ Oltrepò Pavesetutela e promuove il valore del suo importante patrimonio storico vitivinicolo, in una terra che è del vino.
Buttafuoco
Alcuni vigneti sono stati impiantiti nelle terre dell’Oltrepo Pavese nel tardo ottocento, come le cantine Sartieri che da allora si tramandano nelle famiglie Saviotti. Avere sulla tavola una bottiglia Sartieri 1931 significa, oltre ad avere un ottimo alleato per i vostri piatti, premiare un territorio unico e ricco di tradizioni come quello dell’Oltrepò, zona vocata da millenni alla coltivazione dei vigneti. Dallo Spumante Metodo Classico “Première” e Spumante Metodo Classico Rosé “Allure”; a seguire Bonarda “Dama Célinde”, Riesling Renano “Zefir”, Cabernet Sauvignon “Madagascar”, Pinot Grigio “Caban”, Croatina “Suit”, Merlot “Figurino” e Barbera “Tuxedo”, in due versioni, “Gold” (giovane) e “Red” (invecchiato).
Tra borghi e castelli
Montesegale, Torre Degli AlberI, Zavattarello e Fortunago, forse il più caratteristico San Ponzo, di origine medievale: vie strettissima e case in pietra, sono addossate le une sulle altre. Sembra quasi di trovarsi in un paese di montagna. Romagnese, la cui torre ospita il museo civico di arte contadina. Non lontano, a Alpino di Pietra Corva, un bellissimo giardino botanico con custodite circa 3.000 specie vegetali.
Fortunago
Molti borghi vantano maestosi castelli, come quelli di Oramala, di Cigognola, di Nazzano e di Montalto
Castello di Montalto
Prossima tappa :Varzi Ecco un borgo che racchiude gioielli architettonici come il Castello dei Malaspina,, la chiesa romanica dei Cappuccini, la parrocchia di San Germano e merita una menzione speciale per il connubio artistico di arte e street art lasciando che gli artisti pavesi utilizzassero le sarracinesche delle botteghe del centro storico per dipingere i loro graffiti.
I prodotti del territorio
I famosi peperoni di Voghera, dal sapore dolce e gradevole, la mostarda di Voghera, prodotto storico, conosciuto fino già nel XIV secolo, per accompagnare formaggi, bollito misto, cotechino.. la zucca berrettina di Lungavilla dalla caratteristica forma di turbante e colore verde-azzurrino, un ingrediente ideale per risotti. ripieni di ravioli e al forno.
Zucca berrettina e peperoni di Voghera , due eccellenze del territorio
Il “re dei risi” Carnaroli : chicco tenace, riflessi perlacei, perfetta tenuta di cottura e da secoli protagonista della cucina lombarda. Il pane tipico è il miccone, a forma di treccia dalla crosta sottile e la mollica fitta. Accoppiatelo a salame, insalata e bonarda: spuntino top !
A Varzi nasce un’eccellenza dell’Oltrepo Pavese: il salame di Varzi DOP, rigorosamente tagliato a coltello, di traverso. A giusta stagionatura, soprattutto nei mesi estivi, sarà facile notare la classica “goccia” dovuta allo sciogliersi del grasso.
il celebre salame di Varzi
Dolci
Torta di Mandorle Un dolce è semplice, secco e friabile, gustoso e nutriente. Tra i cibi preferiti già XII secolo, alla corte dei Malaspina. Ciambelle di Staghiglione Classiche ciambelle con il buco. La ricetta è gelosamente custodita da tre generazioni dalla panetteria locale. Il prodotto risale a inizio 1800 ed è caratterizzato da una doppia cottura: la prima in acqua bollente e una seconda in forno a legna previa asciugatura.
le storiche ciambelle
Le Stelle Michelin nel cielo dell’ Oltrepò
I Castagni, Vigevano Nell’ elegante casolare nella campagna di Vigevano, troviamo lo Chef Enrico Gerli, paladino una cucina saldamente legati agli aspetti tradizionali del territorio per sfociare in una rivisitazione che premia la ricerca e l’estro gastronomico dello Chef che ha saputo creare una “casa per gli amici”, conviviale e piena di cordialità dove degustare piatti e vini superiori.
.Villa Naj, Stradella Lo Chef Alessandro Proietti Refrigeri è atterrato in Oltrepò dopo esperienze significative ed importanti tra cui il Noma di Copenhagen lavorando per due anni al fianco di Renè Redzepi e La Pergola di Heinz Beck. Con la sua esperienza e professionalità, oltre all’amore per la cucina, è ora al timone di Villa Naj, dove coinvolge tanti piccoli produttori locali e regala un tocco innovativo alle ottime materie prime del territorio. E’ uscito proprio in questi giorni il suo libro “ Terra, Mare e Vegetali” da cui abbiamo estrapolato una ricetta davvero top.
Uno dei piatti che Chef Proietti Refrigeri racconta nel suo libro “Terra, Mare e Vegetali”
MEZZE MANICHE, EMULSIONE DI ERBE AMARE, CAPRINO ALLA CENERE E TARTUFO NERO
Ingredienti per 4 persone 320 g di mezze maniche, 200 g di tarassaco, 150 g di cicorino di campo. 100 g di ortica. 150 g di catalogna, 100 g di cime di rapa, 100 g di tartufo nero, olio extravergine di oliva, sale e pepe, 200 g di caprino alla cenere dell’Azienda Agricola Il Boscasso, 300 g di panna
Preparazione Preparate l’emulsione di erbe, pulendo accuratamente il tarassaco, il cicorino di campo, l’ortica (facendo attenzione a usare dei guanti per evitare ustioni), catalogna e cime di rapa; cuocetele in acqua salata per 4 minuti e poi frullatele aggiungendo poca acqua di cottura, olio extravergine di oliva, sale e pepe con l’aiuto di un robot da cucina. Tenete da parte alcune foglie di tarassaco intere. Tagliate il caprino a cubetti con tutta la crosta; a parte scaldate la panna e versare il tutto nel robot da cucina, frullando per 3 minuti; conservate a parte. Fate cuocere la pasta in acqua salata e, quando sarà al dente, versatela in una padella con un po’ di olio e la sua acqua di cottura: arrivati alla cottura desiderata, spegnete e aggiungete la crema di erbe amare. Mantecate e impiattate mettendo la crema di caprino alla cenere, la pasta, le foglie di tarassaco saltate e solo alla fine una grattata di tartufo nero pregiato
E nel calice…?
Per accompagnare i sentori di tarassaco, cicorino di campo, ortica e cenere del suo piatto, Alessandro consiglia Pernice Conte Vistarino, un cru storicamente “nobile”, avendo proprio il Conte Carlo Vistarino portato le barbatelle di Pinot Nero dalla Borgogna attorno al 1850 . La dinastia Vistarino è oggi rappresentata da Ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino, che vive l’eredità dell’azienda rispettandone la tradizione e nello stesso tempo mettendoci carattere, futuro e personalità.
E le osterie…?
Concediamoci una meritata sosta in una tipica osteria per goderci una cucina ruspante e piatti del territorio, come un risotto con pasta di salame, fagioli dell’occhio e Bonarda oppure del merluzzo con cipolla dorata di Voghera e uvetta. e per finire una squisita torta di zucca berrettina di Lungavilla. Ecco dove buttare l’occhio…
Prato Gaio Montecalvo Versiggia Guallina, Mortara La verde sosta, Crocetta Osteria della Madonna da Peo , Pavia Il giarone , Rocca Susella Osteria del campanile, Torrazzacoste L’ustarua di giugaton , Battella Pappa e cena , Val di Nizza Buscone , Varzi Paradiso, Caseo-Canevino
In una di queste osterie potreste trovare ancora la schita, tradizionale merenda dei bambini ma anche “compagna alimentare” per i contadini che lavoravano nei campi e nelle vigne. Ha una ricetta composta da farina, acqua e un pizzico di sale, ingredienti sempre presente nelle case dei contadini, veniva poi fritta nello strutto o nell’olio e fatto dorare da entrambi i lati.
la schita dell’OltrePoPavese
Sorelle… ai fornelli !
A Rivanazzano troviamo Oasi Della Pace, ristorante gestito dalle suore del Santo Rosario, Apostole del lavoro. E’ molto conosciuto per la semplicità dei suoi piatti, serviti in un ambiente dove regnano silenzio, pace ed aria buona. Il menù è a prezzo fisso e il successo è stellare. Qualche ingrediente particolare? “Macchè, dicono le Sorelle, gli alimenti che usiamo sono semplici e genuini. Il vero segreto è l’amore e la pazienza. Non importa cosa si cucina, ma come lo si fa!”
Italy. Fano is a seaside resort and town, located about 12 kilometers southeast of Pesaro. It is the third largest city in the Marche Region and a tourist destination for those looking for a first-rate cultural, historical and environmental heritage.
Fano offers visitors, tourists and locals the opportunity to enjoy the sea and the delightful countryside of the hinterland. If you have never visited Fano, I suggest you to add it in the list of future weekends. You will not be disappointed!
La Torre d’Augusto
No to be missed L’Arco di AugustoPalazzo Montevecchio il Giardino Storico di Piazzale Leopardi Fontana della Fortuna Mura Augustee ( Augustus Walls)
Le mura Augstee e la Fontana della Fortuna
Maria Nuova Church Piazza XX Settembre Museum Civico e Pinacoteca nel Palazzo Malatestiano hosting the magnificent Guercino‘s painting “The Guardian Angel”
Guercino‘s painting “The Guardian Angel”
THE BRODETTO FEST Every Year Fano celebrates the most iconic local fish dish : the brodetto . The brodetto is a dish born on board fishing boats as a soup of “poor fish”. A super mixture of mazzole, monkfish, dogfish, weever, ray, boccaincava, St. Peter’s fish, mantis shrimp, cuttlefish, redfish were cooked with oil, onion, tomato paste and vinegar.
The brodetto is the result of the historical and profitable “cultural” and “material” exchange between fishermen and gardeners, between sea and land. It was born as a poor dish of fishermen who used that low quality fish difficult to sell. The ingredients provided are extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley, basil, yellow pepper and tomato Fish varieties can vary, but should be at least seven, including ray, mullet, cuttlefish, big head, walnut, cod, sea cicala , sole, mussels, clams, redfish, scampi.
BrodettoFest 2021 This year edition was set up by Omnia Comunicazione that managed to create an extraordinary food & wine bonanza, featuring Michelin starred Chefs, show cooking, meetings, kid games, culinary talks and tastings of the best brodetto in the Region.
Here come the Stars!
Three amazing dishes prepared by Michelin starred Chefs. From left RISOTTO RIVIERA ADRIATICA by Alberto Faccani, SPAGHETTO BREZZA MARINA by Michelangelo Mammoliti, CALAMARATA WITH ALKERMES by Silvia Baracchi
The United Cities of Brodetto Sounds like a new nation! and a very tasty one! Five chefs showed their skills while cooking different styles of brodetto. The winner? All five of them… dishese were delicious.
Five different styles of brodetto, one common denominator: a slice of a crunchy roasted breadyou can add unusual extra ingredients , like peppers, saffron or passatelli pastaThe five dishes created by the Chefs from the Marche
Brodetto Experience. Let’s take a class! From the fish market to the home table in an authentic and convivial atmosphere. Let’s learn how to cook brodetto together! – Tour to the fish market in Fano to buy fish, then travel to a Show cooking soup in a country house . With a small group of four ( the lucky ones…) with lived the brodetto school experience. The adventure started quite early in the morning, shopping around the Fano great Fish Market, in order to choose the best ingredients to male the best brodetto ever….
shopping for the right type of fish at the Fano MarketTUQUI Tour Adolfo and with the lovely Ivana, a brodetto expert.
We were guided by Adolfo Ciuccoli, from TUQUI Tour, a travel agency specialized in discovering the Marche Region, aiming to emotionally involve the traveler, who becomes the main actor of the experience.
“Absolutely no clams or mussels in the authentic brodetto! ” Sentenced Signora Ivana the cook in charge of the Experience… “Let the mussels be in my “Pepata” on the side”et voilà! the brodetto is served ! Buon Appetito!
What In the glass? Certainly a Bianchello del Metauro, a white white produced in the Marche with the Biancame and long white Malvasia vines, It is a precise, young and versatile wine, with a straw yellow color and a dry, fresh, pleasant taste of wild thyme, My fav are Asdrubale e Pian dei Fori from Azienda Agricola Mariotti Cesare,
Two Marche excellencies : Bianchello Mariotti Cesare, and Fossa Cheese from Sogliano
The Bianchello d’Autore Project is from the union of some historic producers of Bianchello Metauro DOC and has been entrusted to the experience and professionalism of a careful choice of nine local producers, whose labels bring to the table a wine that can accompany with harmony the most varied dishes, especially those of fish, including the brodetto, a true icon of the Marche cuisine.
Great meals! what about ending with an amazing coffe? Sure, but must be a moretta! Moretta Fanese, is a pretty alcoholic corrected coffee originating from the city of Fano also widespread in neighboring areas and cities. It is strong and sweet, and is usually drunk as a digestive after meals or as an afternoon energizer, since the correction is an alcoholic blend based on aniseed liqueur, rum and brandy.
2021 Brodetto Fest did not ignore it , on the contrary set up the Moretta Competition, featuring barmen and cocktails expert form all over the region and awarding Nicolas Vincenzetti as Best Moretta Maker 2021, The secret ingredients of his winning coffee? ….Anized drink Varnelli, coffee grounds, sugar syrup, lemon peel, rum and brandy, banana juice. Try to make your own at home!
Brodetto Fest 2022 will be back next year! Check online and Add the dates to your calendar!
Slovenia. Bled, about an hour North of the capital Ljubljana to the North-West of Slovenia. Rather than the town it is the beautiful lake that gives the name Bled, famous among the European elite as early as the 1930’s with the construction of a luxurious hotel providing natural hot spring source knowned for health benefits.I am talking of the Grand Hotel Toplice, a venue that boasts a rich history, a magical location, gorgeous alpine and lake views and sumptuously comfortable, elegantly styled rooms.
Each of the rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Toplice has its own unique character and are traditionally styled with beautiful parquet floors, rich furniture and beautiful paintings with many of the rooms benefiting from breathtakingly beautiful lake views. The hotel has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory and is one of the best hotels in Slovenia as well as being a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection.
It has hosted many eminent guests and is frequented by celebrities such as Vivian Leigh, Arthur Miller, Pablo Neruda, King Hussein of Jordan, Paul McCartney and…me, with my best friend-chef-writer Philip Sinsheimer, graciously hosted by Sava hotel and resort group that manage the venue.
Starting from the impeccable reception. the hotel boasts luxurious accommodation, few restaurant, a bar and the enchantment of Lake Bled. All rooms and suites are individually decorated in an enchanting and traditional style, lavishly equipped with an excellent range of facilities, a relaxing thermal swimming pool and benefit from different saunas, wellness services and a solarium among a private lido,
where Philip (expert swimmer) dived in the limpid lake water while me (lazy man…) was indulging in a relaxing sunbathing. We dedicated the morning ( when the light is best) to row to the island where the minuscule baroque chapel.I was anxious to hear the bells rings, because I knew about the legend wich narrates that around the year 1500, the leaseholder of Lake Bled at the time, Hartman Kreigh, disappeared. People said he was killed. Sad for the events, the Lady of the Castle collected all of her precious golden jewellery to be melted down and casted into a bell for the chapel on the island of the Lake, so that the bell would toll in remembrance of beloved companion. They say the bell has a magic power, when it rings, you should make 3 wishes and wait for them to become real. We did 99 steps and finally we arrived at the church, where the view is really breathtaking and, yes, we waited for the bell… Not sure my wishes are becoming a reality, we ll see….
Italy: Fano in the Marche Region, is the place where Roman and Renaissance histories blend with modernity and sweet life. From the Arch of Augustus to the Malatesta’s walls to the Roman Amphitheatre, to some peaceful beaches on the clear blue Adriatic Sea. In Fano you can also sample the local cuisine that offers a great choice of dishes.
Here some: traditional dishes from the Marche Region. The tripe omelette rolled and cut into strips sautéed in a tomato sauce, the Pesaro’s pasticciata a stew of beef in red wine with lard, cinnamon, cloves, tomato sauce. In Senigallia , the specilaty is the cutanèi , kind of “poor” dumplings made of water, flour and a few eggs.The scepter, however, goes to vincisgrassi, the most famous pasta of the Marche region, cut into large strips, seasoned with chicken giblets and baked in the oven. You ‘ll find many rabbit dishes, raised in inland areas between Ascoli, Macerata and Fabriano, the tastiest is the one in porchetta, stuffed with spices and wild fennel or stewed with white wine, garlic, chilli and aromatic herbs. Last but not the least the Ascoli olives, stuffed with meat, breadcrumbs and grated cheese, then floured, passed in egg, in breadcrumbs and fried.
Ascoli Olives
What about fish? A lot! From sea snails, molluscs, seafood, cooked in stew with tomato, mint and wild fennel or the stockfish cooked in abundant white wine, anchovy pesto, celery, carrots, onion, chilli, aromatic herbs, peeled tomatoes, black olives and potatoes and the iconic brodetto, a fish dish widespread in much of the Adriatic coast prepared in many different styles,
Talking of brodetto, I stopped at the restaurant which has been awarded over the years as “Best Brodetto in Italy” and won again last year Fano Brodetto Festival. It’s called La Liscia da Mr.Ori, located in the premises of the 4 stars Augustus Hotel, an elegant venue in the center of Fano, boasting 22 rooms carefully prepared to welcome all year round guests from all over the world.
I stayed at the next door 3 stars Hotel De La Ville, owned and managed by the Augustus team with excellent level services and trained, professional and multilingual staff. Hotel De La Ville has 24 rooms, including 8 comfort, completely renovated, bright and equipped with air conditioning, satellite TV, mini bar and free Wi-Fi. Some have a sea view while others overlook the ancient city walls
I choose this hotel because is in the heart of the city of Fano, directly on the ancient dock, it is an excellent starting point for a relaxing beach holiday and a great discovering of history, art and excellet food
Both hotels have free private parking and a bike sharing service by reservation. A gym with innovative equipment and a sauna for relaxing moments, as well as a quiet and private reading room and internet point are also available to guests of the Augustus Hotel. Simplicity, exaltation of natural taste, freshness and genuineness combined with tradition and creativity: these are in summary the virtues that you will appreciate at the La Liscia Da Mr.Ori restaurant a certainty in the gastronomic panorama of the Marche region.
Good morning at the Augustus. A tempting home made cake
There I meet with the Executive Chef Francesca Paradisi and the mysterious Mr.Ori himself…aka Luca, Francesca’s husband. Pretty soon we were joined by the all family: mamma Tiziana and papa Gabriele. Hey, we are in Italy, after all…
Tiziana, Francesca, Gabriele: it’s a family affair... Photo @ Cesare Zucca 2021
Ciao Francesca, ciao Luca, where do you like to travel to, if you have some free time? Luca: We love travelling, exotic destinations are our favorite, Francesca, me and 3 kids, big company. We went to Etiopia, Kenya, Nepal, India, who knows what would be the next… While in your territory,what car do you like to drive? Francesca: I am the only driver in the family because Luca doesn’t have a driving license. I have a spacious Peugeot where I can easily fit three child seats in the back Are you curious about those local cuisine? Francesca: Absolutely. Sometimes we export ideas, like my ricciola sashimi with mango yelly or the Meo Meo tuna iinspired by Thai cuisine, based on rice, fried vegetables, soy and oyster sauce. We aim, especially in this period that we cannot easily travel, to take our clients around the world with imagination and taste.
What is important on your cooking? Taste, freshness, variety, all of that wiith a bit of fantasy and inspiration, for example I named Cesar my laurel, zucchini and prawns skewers as laca and me, we were both inspired by Caesar Augustus,
Francesca, tell me about your menu and your top dish My cooking is thetraditional way the cooks form Fano use to prepare a meal: simple, fresh products, lots of fish.
My number one dish undoubtedly thebrodetto, a traditional “poor” soup that local housewives used to cook using the leftover fish that the fishermen did not sell. It is made with oil, red vinegar, tomato paste, pepper, salt and a large quantity of fish: cuttlefish, spider fish, redfish, sole, monkfish and more…
the iconic brodetto
As a matter of fact in the kitchen there is another “Cooking Queen” I am talking of Tiziana, Gabriele’s wife and expert Chef, here she is… Tiziana, your restaurant is famous for fish dishes, any particular you would like to mention? Tiziana: I would love you to try the octopus with mint, green beans, potatoes and the cuttlefish salad with ginger, then you’ll tell me what you think… I also “created” another dish that am proud of: tortelloni stuffed with ricotta and monkfish and wild fennel.
A Tiziana’s creation: Octopus with mint, green beans, potatoestortelloni stuffed with ricotta, monkfish pachino tomatoes and wild fennel.
Let’s go back in time: Your fist memory in the kitchen? Francesca: Mom cooking all the time… with some huge sunday production making fresh pasta tortellini and those large tables settled up in three huts, on holidays such as communions and confirmations and was served in three huts.
Gabriele: Oh yeah, I remember. I was a kid and my job was to shape the gnocchi using my fingers, I kinda loved and hated…actually usually two were ending up on the table and one… in my mouth, even raw they were so good…
A succulent and tasty traditional dish. the ” fritto misto” served with fried vegetables
Gabriele, you have won the Best Brodetto Award, can you tell me a little bit about it? Gabriele: Sure, we were the winners of the first edition and we keep the title for a long time, including last year. Fano BrodettoFest it’s a great event that will happen again this year from September 10th to 12th I consider it an unmissable appointment for seafood lovers. There will be great chefs exhibitions and cooking contests to declare the best fish recipe, evaluated by a technical and popular judges.
There is also an area for the children Brodetto & kids, with entertainment, games, didactic activities and detailed workshops about the fish in the Adriatic Sea and the snack time served with fish to approach the children to eat fish, especially the local ones.
What a great event! Pity only 3 days.... Well, you ‘ll be happy to hear that several restaurants will take part to the “Fuori Brodetto” promotion: a serving of that delicious fish soup will be served at the fixed price of 20 Euros until the end of the month! So, come to Fano and enjoy this delicious specialty! Well, I have already save the date… Grazie Tiziana, Francesca, Gabriele and Luca, see you in September!
INFO BrodettoFest For restaurant info, details, menus, timetables and addresses, click on the name in orange
CESARE ZUCCA Travel, food & lifestyle. Born in Milan, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world. For WEEKEND PREMIUM he photographs and writes about cities, cultures, lifestyles. He likes to discover both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights, to meet and interview top chefs from over the world and to ‘steal ‘their recipes. All of them treasured in his blog, with a “Non Touristy Tourist ” style
Looking for an historical, alive, welcoming destination? The answer is Greece Looking for a Greek Island historical, alive and welcoming? The answer is Corfù Looking for an amazing accommodation where indulge your Corfù vacation? The answer is the Angsana Resort Corfù, the newest, incomparable addition to the Island.
Be enchanted by the wonderful landscape of Umbria, in my opinion one of the most beautiful regions of the Peninsula. Perugia is awakening from the forced torpor of the lockdown: many accommodation facilities of all kinds, many museums, restaurants and trattorias, have reopened and tourists, especially Italians and Europeans, have returned to enjoy the beauty of this city.
Among the hotels, the 4-star Sangallo Palace stands out for its quality-price ratio, service and location, being strategically located right next to the escalator that will first take you to the magical Rocca Paolina, the imposing fortress built by Pope Paul III.
La Rocca Paolina. Get lost in a labyrinth of underground rooms of extraordinary beauty
Let’s discover more ‘niche’ accommodations. Corte di Gabriela In the small Calle degli Avvocati a very accurate residence awaits you where the inspiration of the owner / chef will reserve you a perfect welcome, starting with the linen, served in rustic paper bags, to the silky sheets.
Modern design, small breakfast strictly home cooked, exquisite and served in a delightful garden.Here and there vintage photos with past festival stars, Paul Newman, Claudia Cardinale, Jane Fonda…
EGO’ Literally next to the Rialto Bridge, a 4-star luxury boutique hotel that tells the story of Marco Polo and the Silk Road.It will be the very kind Ekaterina to welcome you and tell you how each room recalls an episode of her journey, while here and there historical hints about the life of the great conqueror pop up.
For a special night, a soecial room, a round bed, a jacuzzi decorated with gold, moon and sun and when you wake up a rich breakfast served in your room or in the sitting room overlooking the Grand Canal.
LONDON Where to stay Cercate classe e tradizione ? Consiglio il cinque stelle Royal Lancaster Hotel. Si affaccia su Hyde Park e, secondo me, rappresenta il top dell’eleganza, discreta e sempre di buon gusto accompagnata a un servizio ineccepibile. Due ristoranti: Nipa Thai serve autentica cucina tailandese e Island Grill, che offre piatti della tradizione locale. L’elegante Hyde Bar è perfetto per un cocktail. Il ricchissimo breakfast è servito nello splendido ristorante Park con vista mozzafiato sul parco. Dalle camere, progettate in modo impeccabile per combinare stile e comfort, si oode di una vista spettacolare giorno e notte. Arredamento vagamente anni ’60, sembrerebbe che James Bond possa entrare nella hall da un momento all’altro.
Eccleston Square Hotel Perfetto esempio di alta classe alberghiera che sposa Ie più avanzate soluzioni tecnologiche.È uno dei primi hotel al mondo a fornire connessioni TV 4K e, grazie al soundbar Sonos Beam, un suono perfetto. Comandi digitali dovunque, dal controllo di tutte le funzioni in camera, all’inclinazione del letto e, come se non bastasse, vi verrà consegnato un cellulare gratuito per chiamate illimitate a numeri mobili e fissi britannici e internazionali.
Chi prenota direttamente può usufruire di un minibar gratuito rifornito ogni giorno. Si trova a pochi minuti da Victoria Station e della metropolitane Circle, District e Victoria, nonché il Gatwick Extress. Ah dimenticavo…. gli ospiti possono utilizzare il meraviglioso giardino privato antistante l’hotel!see full article
BOUTIQUE HOTEL CASA ANGELINA, AMALFI COAST by Cesare Zucca A contemporary interpretation of the Italian Riviera; an innovative, intimate retreat of 43 guestrooms. Although just a few minutes’ drive from the destination village of Positano, Casa Angelina’s fishing village location immerses guests in an off-the-radar authenticity that occupies a prime spot on the Amalfi coast.Resting high up on the cliffs, the converted fishermen’s homes look to the future with an immaculately minimalist design complimented by exquisite Murano glass sculptures. Aperitivi are served at the on-trend Marrakech Bar, and the rooftop gourmet restaurant—Un Piano nel Cielo—offers sweeping views of the Gulf of Salerno. Guests are also encouraged to make use of the restorative spa and exclusive access to Casa Angelina´s own beach, La Gavitella, to fully appreciate la bella vita. I see full article
BOUTIQUE HOTEL LA TORRETTA, CINQUE TERRE At the gentle yet accurate reception, you ‘ll find a bottle of Italian prosecco and Cuban rum to welcome you in one of the ten gorgeous sunny rooms that harmoniously mix a combination of antique and contemporary pieces.
Most of them have balcony overlooking the vineyards to one side and the blue Mediterranean to the other. At breakfast time, the “buongiorno” , is a real “good morning” thanks to Gabriele’s Mamma who prepares the most delicious torte salate (salted cakes with fresh vegetables) and the succulent torta di riso ( a rice cake traditionally cooked every year con August 10th, but available here every morning! ). All this goodies enhance a generous breakfast with local cheeses, meats, home-made patisserie, fresh squeeze oranges.Enjoy one ( or more…) glass of wine offered at your arrival or served at the sunset aperitivo time in the terrace that boasts a spectacular views of the stunning Bay.
Spectacular view from the terrace
Superbly located in the centre of the wonderfully picturesque village of Manarola a once-in-a-lifetime ultimate destination in beautiful Cinque Terre, Ligury, Ital. Reservation a must. Here the link http://www.torrettas.co
December is a great time to visit Oslo, celebrate PEACE and enjoy the magnificent Grand Hotel a superb symbol of a first-class hospitality with tradition, atmosphere and style.
VISITING MEXICO CITY? CHECK THIS HABITA HOTEL! by Cesare Zucca TUCKED BETWEEN HISTORIC FACADES ON A TREE-LINED ROAD IN MEXICO CITY’S TRENDY CONDESA NEIGHBORHOOD, THE HOTEL CONDESA DF FUSES THE SPIRIT OF ITS BOHEMIAN SURROUNDINGS WITH A PLAYFULLY SIMPLE AESTHETIC DESIGN. HOUSED IN A 1928 BUILDING IN THE FRENCH NEOCLASSICAL STYLE www.condesadf.com
I had planned it all and planned it well. We arrived in Cambodia’s capital and enjoyed a 2-night stay at the Intercontinentala magnificent venue that isn’t in the touristic epicenter of Phnom Penh which would be close to the river, close to the Royal Palace, but actually it is rather central taking the city in its full scope. There are good things about staying at a hotel that is NOT particularly meant for tourists and that ISN’T in the touristic hub of town.
Be enchanted by the wonderful landscape of Umbria, in my opinion one of the most beautiful regions of the Peninsula. Perugia is awakening from the forced torpor of the lockdown: many accommodation facilities of all kinds, many museums, restaurants and trattorias, have reopened and tourists, especially Italians and Europeans, have returned to enjoy the beauty of this city. Among the hotels, the 4-star Sangallo Palace stands out for its quality-price ratio, service and location, being strategically located right next to the escalator that will first take you to the magical Rocca Paolina, the imposing fortress built by Pope Paul III.
La Rocca Paolina. Get lost in a labyrinth of underground rooms of extraordinary beauty
Continuing on the escalators, you will arrive in the wonderful center where the Fontana Maggiore triumphs in the sumptuous Piazza IV Novembre, the setting for summer concerts during the Umbria Jazz festival.
Night fairy tale on the square
Let’s go back to where we started from, and that is the Sangallo Palace. A venue that we recommend for its exquisite hospitality and professionalism, welcoming comfort rooms, design details in the furnishings and lighting, which quote the floor graphics of the Annunciation by Perugino with futuristic neon accents. colored in the showers
Perugino in the quotes of the Hotel Sangallo
Despite being in the center, the rooms are very quiet, thanks to a first-rate anti-noise system. For workouts, relaxation and a nice swim, you will find a rich spa with swimming pool and gym
The spa and a really “Perugina” room with the iconic couple of the famous kisses
Finally, his excellent (indeed I would say very good) Sangallo Restaurant, where we meet Chef Kamrul Islam, born in Bangladesh and living in Italy for more than 30 years.
His renowned cuisine is now decidedly Italian, indeed Umbrian with a French accent. There is a lot of traditional Umbrian cuisine in the pasta dishes, strictly homemade, like strangozzi, served with salmon and zucchini and umbricelli alla norcina, with cream and sausages.
Chef Kamrul Islam
Good morning Kamrul, your first memory in the kitchen? When I was looking around mother Nasmakan intent on preparing our typical dishes. Unlike Indian cuisine, ours is much simpler and certainly less spicy. Sitting at the table is a ritual, just like in Italy, and no expense is spared for food. Your cooking is … Based on local products, meats, vegetables, cured meats, cheeses, I would define it as an Umbrian cuisine, often with traditional dishes, such as polenta and sausage and grapes, a classic of the winter months.
A Chef Ismal signature dish: Colfiorito lamb chops marinated in herbs
Do you cook at home? (laughs) Never! My wife forbids me, only her is at the stove, also because our women think that we husbands are not so good at cooking. that we mess and leave everything in a mess, so at home they don’t let me touch a pot. What does Mrs. Ismal cook? In my house, the pasta is a winner, also because I have a son who literally lives only on pasta … sometimes rice, as a second course maybe a hamburger or a chicken breast, or … again pasta! Always and never in your refrigerator… Well, easy to guess: many types of pasta in the pantry and some homemade sauces in the fridge. Never: eggplant. And yes I like them a lot … but for my wife they are out of discussion … Luckily I cook them here in the restaurant … i
Unfortunately never … in the chef’s house fridge
Where do you like to spend a weekend? If we stay in the area, at Lake Trasimeno, if we have a few more days, we like to visit a European city like London or Paris, but above all to discover our wonderful cities in Italy, also because the hospitality of Italians is incomparable. Do you do gastronomic research on your travels? No, when I go on vacation I take off my chef uniform and completely forget that I am a cook. I am a pure tourist interested in other things.
fishing and relaxing on Lake Trasimeno
Any new dish on your menu? Brand new, perhaps you are the first to taste it. A very summery dish and easy to make: lemon and mint tagliatelle. Here the recipe
LEMON AND MINT TAGLIATELLE.
Ingredients for 4 people) 1 lemon peel Egg Tagliatelle (300 grams) Fresh mint (1 bunch of 50 grams) Garlic (2 cloves) Olive oil Parmesan cheese (30 grams) Parsley (10 grams). Preparation : Boil the lemon peel to chop later Prepare the mint pesto with garlic, olive oil, parmesan and parsley. Mix everything well and pour over the pasta cooked al dente A wine to pair? A wine that interprets history, elegance and modernity. Think it was the first Chardonnay to be grown in Umbria, in the early 1970s and its label recalls, with stylized graphics, the four-lobed tiles of the fourteenth century. that adorn the facade of the Cathedral of Perugia, I am talking about Umbria Chardonnay of Cantine Lungarotti, with a full and well balanced character. It has a color: intense straw yellow with greenish reflections and a perfume that expresses notes of banana, peach and pean
Chardonnay Lungarotti
The Lungarotti company maintains a strong family imprint based on respect for the values that unite tradition, history and territory and is today directed by the sisters Chiara Lungarotti and Teresa Severini, while Maria Grazia Lungarotti successfully directs the work of the Foundation. At the forefront of environmental protection, the company operates a sustainable viticulture, with choices that aim at obtaining the best quality of the grapes without stressing the plant or the soil, together with the defense of the environment, not using either herbicides or chemical fertilizers. i.
Looking for an historical, alive, welcoming destination? The answer is Greece Looking for a Greek Island historical, alive and welcoming? The answer is Corfù Looking for an amazing accommodation where indulge your Corfù vacation? The answer is the Angsana Resort Corfù, the newest, incomparable addition to the Island.
The view from the Angsana Terrace
I spend there 5 fabulous days, enjoying my room, my terrace, the SPA, the private “Emerald” beach and the immense swimming pool, a truly amazing endless space that literally seems to plunge into the blue sea.
the Angsana Corfù swimmimg pool
The resort is set on an idyllic lush green hilltop overlooking the turquoise waters of the historical Benitses Bay. It boasts a close vicinity to the exotic Paxoi and Antipaxoi islets. Located a short 12 km drive south of Corfu town, an UNESCO World Heritage site with its imposing Old Fortress, the resort is strategically positioned for must-see spots, beautiful sandy beaches, historical sites and activities for all tastes, an experience of local heritage and a deep sense of belonging.
The estate is surrounded by a landscape of exquisite beauty with Mediterranean gardens and olive tree groves, overlooking the picturesque Benitses Bay, presenting far-reaching views of the Ionian sea and the countryside.
THE SWIMMING POOLS This swimming pools are undoubtedly among the Angsana Corfu’s greatest attractions. They both, outdoor and indoor, encapsulates the heart of the resort’s lifestyle. In addition, an indoor heated pool for winter days or training regimes and a kids’ pool bring the fun of poolside life to every guest.
A personal fitness program can be designed and executed at Angsana Corfu dedicated state-of-the-art Gym and at the outdoor Yoga Pavilion, for a healthy and fit summer life.
Yes, that’s me with the lifeguard, always present and on the alert, with a smile, like the entire professional team working in the property.
THE ROOMS The resort offers a collection of 159 contemporary rooms and suites, plus 37 luxury villa homes built in the style of local architecture, laid out across the hilltop estate.with a choice of 159 rooms and suites plus 37 private pool villas, backdropped with infinity sea views.
Spacious and stylish accommodation on a historical hilltop location of Corfu, offering a fine blend of the Greek “philoxenia, friend to the stranger” and the mystique of Asian hospitality, a home away from home feeling.
amazing sunset from my beautiful terrace
The rooms, the suites and pool villas are backdropped with infinity sea views define the spacious and stylish accommodations on a historical hilltop location of Corfu, offering a fine blend of the Greek “philoxenia, friend to the stranger” and the mystique of Asian hospitality, a home away from home feeling.
THE FOOD Here comes one of my favorite part…. Food here is amazing.from the huge breakfast buffet to the greek cuisine of Sofrito, to the experience at Botrini’s, a fine dining restaurant guided by the stellar Chef Ettore Botrini.
Botrini’s and Sofrito
THE AMAZING BREAKFAST From Freshly pressed juices made to boost your health and stamina, enhancing a feeling of happiness in you, to rich omelettes made just the way you like them, an infinite number of local and international sweets and desserts,
You will find fresh homemade bread, cold cuts, salmon, local cheeses, a great variety of yougurt, fresh honey that melts under your eyes, a huge choice of vegetables, cooked or sautéed, such as mushrooms, potatoes, yellow and red cherry tomatoes and ratatouille,
So, If you are into salads, You ‘ll find them if you are into eggs, You ll find them if you are into sausages …well, you got it !
Add seasoning of any kind, sweet and salted delicacies, fruits and tasty local pastry, such as bougatsa a greek pie with a creamy custard and light phyllo, and the incomparable cheese pie called tiropita… in short: a king’s breakfast!
Dessert time: going local with bougatsa and tiropita
DINING Angsana Corfu places gastronomy pleasures high on its priority list… and so do I ! The resort offers a unique palette of vibrant flavors and taste combinations sourced from around the world. Our chefs serve up a universe of options, from fusion Asian cuisine and sushi bites to Greek cuisine with local Corfiot delicacies and tasty international favorite dishes.
With a full range of signature restaurants, and outdoor dining lounge terraces overlooking a panorama of expansive seaviews and mountainous Corfiot landscape, every meal will be an experience to remember.
Angsana Corfu is a Mediterranean sanctuary of extraordinary beauty, a luxurious spa and beach resort offering the warmth and charms of its unique blend of Greek and Asian hospitality. Its proximity to Achilleion Palace, once home to the famed Empress Sissi of Austria, enriches its surroundings with echoes of a royal era.
THE SPA What better than a relaxing foot massage upon my arrival? I gOt the stress out and enjoied the one hour session that you I felt like walking on a cloud. Wellness is revived in the signature award-winning Angsana Spa, a space of euphoria, providing guests with a rejuvenating sense of touch using fusion massage techniques, where East meets West.
Angsana Spa consists of 11 treatment rooms, outdoor with secret gardens and superb seaviews, located right next to the indoor pool area overlooking the bay, making it a true oasis for the body and the soul.
There will always be something for the children, who can happily hang out and socially mingle at our kids’ club and pool, the Ranger’s Club. Our beach spot will offer luxurious sun loungers, a beach bar and fun water sports activities. A dedicated concierge is available to deliver special guest requests.
The “Emerald Beach” at Angsana
And this is only the beginning…. more surprises are in their way… Like an additional 4th and 5th floor huge terrace where you ‘ll feel like on top of the world
And if… a photo is worth more than a thousand words… THAT’S THE WAY I WAS FEELING, WHILE THERE!
Arrivederci Corfù! See you soon ! Τα λέμε αργότερα !
Arrivederci Corfù ! See you soon ! Τα λέμε αργότερα !
Looking for an historical, alive, welcoming destination? The answer is Greece Looking for a Greek Island historical, alive and welcoming? The answer is Corfù Looking for an amazing accommodation where indulge your Corfù vacation? The answer is the Angsana Resort Corfù, the newest, incomparable addition to the Island.
The view from the Angsana Terrace
I spend there 5 fabulous days, enjoying my room, my terrace, the SPA, the private “Emerald” beach and the immense swimming pool, a truly amazing endless space that literally seems to plunge into the blue sea.
the Angsana Corfù swimmimg pool
The resort is set on an idyllic lush green hilltop overlooking the turquoise waters of the historical Benitses Bay. It boasts a close vicinity to the exotic Paxoi and Antipaxoi islets. Located a short 12 km drive south of Corfu town, an UNESCO World Heritage site with its imposing Old Fortress, the resort is strategically positioned for must-see spots, beautiful sandy beaches, historical sites and activities for all tastes, an experience of local heritage and a deep sense of belonging.
The estate is surrounded by a landscape of exquisite beauty with Mediterranean gardens and olive tree groves, overlooking the picturesque Benitses Bay, presenting far-reaching views of the Ionian sea and the countryside.
THE SWIMMING POOLS This swimming pools are undoubtedly among the Angsana Corfu’s greatest attractions. They both, outdoor and indoor, encapsulates the heart of the resort’s lifestyle. In addition, an indoor heated pool for winter days or training regimes and a kids’ pool bring the fun of poolside life to every guest.
A personal fitness program can be designed and executed at Angsana Corfu dedicated state-of-the-art Gym and at the outdoor Yoga Pavilion, for a healthy and fit summer life.
Yes, that’s me with the lifeguard, always present and on the alert, with a smile, like the entire professional team working in the property.
THE ROOMS The resort offers a collection of 159 contemporary rooms and suites, plus 37 luxury villa homes built in the style of local architecture, laid out across the hilltop estate.with a choice of 159 rooms and suites plus 37 private pool villas, backdropped with infinity sea views.
Spacious and stylish accommodation on a historical hilltop location of Corfu, offering a fine blend of the Greek “philoxenia, friend to the stranger” and the mystique of Asian hospitality, a home away from home feeling.
amazing sunset from my beautiful terrace
The rooms, the suites and pool villas are backdropped with infinity sea views define the spacious and stylish accommodations on a historical hilltop location of Corfu, offering a fine blend of the Greek “philoxenia, friend to the stranger” and the mystique of Asian hospitality, a home away from home feeling.
THE FOOD Here comes one of my favorite part…. Food here is amazing.from the huge breakfast buffet to the greek cuisine of Sofrito, to the experience at Botrini’s, a fine dining restaurant guided by the stellar Chef Ettore Botrini.
Botrini’s and Sofrito
THE AMAZING BREAKFAST From Freshly pressed juices made to boost your health and stamina, enhancing a feeling of happiness in you, to rich omelettes made just the way you like them, an infinite number of local and international sweets and desserts,
You will find fresh homemade bread, cold cuts, salmon, local cheeses, a great variety of yougurt, fresh honey that melts under your eyes, a huge choice of vegetables, cooked or sautéed, such as mushrooms, potatoes, yellow and red cherry tomatoes and ratatouille,
So, If you are into salads, You ‘ll find them if you are into eggs, You ll find them if you are into sausages …well, you got it !
Add seasoning of any kind, sweet and salted delicacies, fruits and tasty local pastry, such as bougatsa a greek pie with a creamy custard and light phyllo, and the incomparable cheese pie called tiropita… in short: a king’s breakfast!
Dessert time: going local with bougatsa and tiropita
DINING Angsana Corfu places gastronomy pleasures high on its priority list… and so do I ! The resort offers a unique palette of vibrant flavors and taste combinations sourced from around the world. Our chefs serve up a universe of options, from fusion Asian cuisine and sushi bites to Greek cuisine with local Corfiot delicacies and tasty international favorite dishes.
With a full range of signature restaurants, and outdoor dining lounge terraces overlooking a panorama of expansive seaviews and mountainous Corfiot landscape, every meal will be an experience to remember.
Angsana Corfu is a Mediterranean sanctuary of extraordinary beauty, a luxurious spa and beach resort offering the warmth and charms of its unique blend of Greek and Asian hospitality. Its proximity to Achilleion Palace, once home to the famed Empress Sissi of Austria, enriches its surroundings with echoes of a royal era.
THE SPA What better than a relaxing foot massage upon my arrival? I gOt the stress out and enjoied the one hour session that you I felt like walking on a cloud. Wellness is revived in the signature award-winning Angsana Spa, a space of euphoria, providing guests with a rejuvenating sense of touch using fusion massage techniques, where East meets West.
Angsana Spa consists of 11 treatment rooms, outdoor with secret gardens and superb seaviews, located right next to the indoor pool area overlooking the bay, making it a true oasis for the body and the soul.
There will always be something for the children, who can happily hang out and socially mingle at our kids’ club and pool, the Ranger’s Club. Our beach spot will offer luxurious sun loungers, a beach bar and fun water sports activities. A dedicated concierge is available to deliver special guest requests.
The “Emerald Beach” at Angsana
And this is only the beginning…. more surprises are in their way… Like an additional 4th and 5th floor huge terrace where you ‘ll feel like on top of the world
And if… a photo is worth more than a thousand words… THAT’S THE WAY I WAS FEELING, WHILE THERE!
Arrivederci Corfù! See you soon ! Τα λέμε αργότερα !
Arrivederci Corfù ! See you soon ! Τα λέμε αργότερα !
Welcome to Meissen. History, art, porcelain and a dessert that flies …
MUST SEE IN MEISSEN
Stadtmuseum This is the city museum, in the former church of a Franciscan monastery. Do not miss the large manual press dated 1788 or the last fishing boat on the Elbe river The Cathedral of 1400, of French-Gothic style, one of the most richly furnished and decorated Saxon churches. The perspective of the columns really looks like a neverending curtain.
Frauenkirche, make your way up to the spire (193 steps!) For a spectacular view of the city and to hear the Meissen porcelain bells. Albrechtsburg, a fairytale castle built in the Gothic style, overlooking the city of Meißen, in the land of Saxony, Germany.
Un bellissimo tramonto a Meissen
It is actually the porcelain, locally nicknamed “white gold”, one of the things that Saxony is best known for, being the first place in Europe to produce porcelain since the early 1700s. Two crossed blue swords will welcome you in the famous Manifattura di Meissen whose precious creations are famous all over the world. le cui preziose creazioni sono famose in tutto il mondo.
le meravigliose ceramiche di Meissen, per impreziosire la vostra tavola
At the end of the visit, do not miss the well-stocked gift shop, I’m sure you won’t resist the temptation to buy a souvenir.
piccoli souvenir in porcellana
The historic puffed sweet bread
Meissen’s historic sweet specialty is Meissner Fummel, whose origins date back to at least the 17th century. It is a pandolce with a very thin and extremely crumbly puff pastry, so fragile that it breaks at the slightest vibration.
‘bretzel’ salati e il tipico pane dolce soffiato
It has a rounded shape, empty inside, very light and extremely fragile. A real cloud! It has no specific flavor, so no appreciable nutritional value, however, with the addition of a sprinkle of powdered sugar it becomes a dessert, often paire to a good sweet wine.
Volete la ricetta? Eccola Curious about the recipe? here you go!
MEISSNER FUMMEL
Meissner Fummel, Il dolce tipicodi Meissen. La dimensione è quella di una pagnotta sottile e friabile., vuota all’interno e riempita d’aria.
Ingredients ▢ 50 g of butter ▢ 1 egg yolk ▢ 100 g of flour ▢ 1 pinch of sugar ▢ salt ▢ 1 straw (not a joke)
Preparation ▢ Put the flour on a work surface, mix well with the sugar and salt and then add the butter. ▢ Knead the dough well for about 10 minutes so that at the end it is elastic. ▢ Roll out the dough very thin. ▢ Brush one half with egg yolk and cover the other half. Press the edge firmly and flip the piece of dough to the other side. It is best to place everything on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. This is then spread to obtain two thin discs, on one of which, moistened with water or egg, is made to match the other by squeezing the edges well. ▢ At this point, use the straw, first to pierce the upper half of the dumpling, then to blow some air into it and inflate it slightly. ▢ Then put the gnocchi in the oven preheated to 240 degrees and bake for 3 minutes.
Harlem, meta delle comunità afro-americane e di visitatori provenienti da tutto il mondo.
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY CESARE ZUCCA
Sunday morning in Harlem, a destination for African-American communities and visitors from all over the world. For those who love to travel in groups, there are organized tours, including welcometoharlem.com, harlemspirituals.com, harlemheritage.com.offering a global view of Harlem and its historical path.
Gospel masses start at 11, better to arrive well in advance to ensure entry. Harlem, a destination for African-American communities and visitors from all over the world.
Abyssinian Baptist Church
Among those that host the most renowned choirs I like to mention: New Mount Zion Baptist Church, one of the most traditional churches in the neighborhood, founded more than 80 years ago. Its choir is considered one of the best in Harlem. Here the singing never stops, even during the Pastor’s sermon. In fervent union with music, the faithful clap their hands, mark the time and pray ecstatically (171 West 140th Street) .Abyssinian Baptist Church, a true architectural jewel with splendid mosaic windows. It boasts a mighty choir and is a favorite destination for tourists. Long line to enter. (132 Odell Clark Place / West 138th Street) Mount Neboh Baptist Church Its choir, in addition to traditional sacred hymns, sings new versions of popular pieces such as “Oh Happy Day” and “At Calvary.” The service starts at 10.45. (1883 Adam Clayton Powell Ave) and finally
The Greater Refuge Temple, my favorite. Large modern amphitheater where numerous choirs alternate. The energy is sky high, the music is enthralling. , voices and prayers are transformed into a musical crescendo, accompanied by organ, drums, electric guitar, and by the numerous tambourines with which the elegant African American ladies mark and color the rhythm. (2081 Adam Clayton Powell Avenue)
The Greater Refuge Temple
Powerful voices and sensational harmonies result in a collective frenzy that ignites souls and turns into a real show. Video and photo shooting inside the church are prohibited. Unadvisable (and irreverent) to be smart.
For the black ladies, it is an opportunity to show off an elegant look and unpredictable hats.
Per le black ladies, l’appuntamento domenicale è anche un’occasione per sfoggiare un look elegante, acconciature elaborate e imprevedibili cappellini.
It’s time for lunch, one of the most popular soul food restaurants is Spoonbread Too which serves authentic Southern American home cooking, famous for gumbo, collard greens and traditional fried chicken.
Norma Jean, ieri e oggi
The restaurant is run by a Harlem icon: the legendary (and still beautiful) Norma Jean Darden, one of the first black top models in fashion history. Norma serves comfort food based on the family recipes she collected in the book Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine, written with her sister Carole.
il fortunatissimo libro libro Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine,
Among the classic dishes of the South, here is the “banana pudding” a banana pudding enriched with whipped cream or, just like the grandmothers of the South, with a meringue top. GRAND MA BANANA PUDDING
Il “banana pudding” di Norma Jean Darden
Norma Jean Darden’s “banana pudding”, a Southern dessert made with layers of vanilla custard, biscuits and slices of fresh bananas Ingredients For 8 people 4 tablespoons of 00 flour 1 1/2 cup of sugar pinch of salt 3 separate large eggs (you will need the egg whites later for the meringue) 3 cups of milk 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract 1 box of vanilla wafers about 45 wafers 5-6 bananas 3 egg whites 1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar 1/4 cup of sugar 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract Preparation Preheat the oven to 325º F. How to make custard for pudding Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Lightly whisk the egg yolks and whisk to combine with the milk in a large bowl or also use a large liquid measuring cup, such as 4 cups. Whisk the egg yolk mixture into the dry ingredients in the saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir constantly until the custard has thickened, remove from heat and add the vanilla extract. How to assemble banana pudding Arrange the vanilla wafers on the bottom of a 2-quart dish, such as an oven-safe glass bowl or dish. Slice the bananas and place them on top of the vanilla wafer layer. Pour 1/3 of the pudding over the waffles and bananas. Repeat the layering process, ending with a wafer layer. Grandma recommends serving it in a glass bowl How to make the meringue garnish: Use a very clean whisk and bowl that have been chilled for a while. Then, whip the egg whites with your electric whisk at very high speed. When the egg whites begin to foam, add the cream of tartar and then the sugar one tablespoon at a time. Continue beating the egg whites until all the sugar has dissolved and hard peaks form, then stir in the vanilla extract. Spread the meringue over the top of the pudding, taking care to spread it completely to the inside edge of the plate to completely cover the pudding. Cook for 25 minutes until the meringue is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and serve.
Nonna consiglia di servirlo in una ciotola di vetro
Spoonbread Too 366 West 110th Street, di fronte a Morningside Park, New York
Cesare Zucca Travel, food & lifestyle. Born in Milan, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world.For WEEKEND PREMIUM he photographs and talks about cities, cultures, lifestyles and discovers both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights. Cesare meets and interviews top chefs from all over the world, ‘steals’ their recipes and tells you everything in his blog, in style ‘Turista non Turista’
Harlem: gospel, banana pudding and the legendary Miss Norma Jean Darden
Harlem, meta delle comunità afro-americane e di visitatori provenienti da tutto il mondo.
TEXT AND PHOTOS BY CESARE ZUCCA
Sunday morning in Harlem, a destination for African-American communities and visitors from all over the world. For those who love to travel in groups, there are organized tours, including welcometoharlem.com, harlemspirituals.com, harlemheritage.com.offering a global view of Harlem and its historical path.
Gospel masses start at 11, better to arrive well in advance to ensure entry. Harlem, a destination for African-American communities and visitors from all over the world.
Abyssinian Baptist Church
Among those that host the most renowned choirs I like to mention: New Mount Zion Baptist Church, one of the most traditional churches in the neighborhood, founded more than 80 years ago. Its choir is considered one of the best in Harlem. Here the singing never stops, even during the Pastor’s sermon. In fervent union with music, the faithful clap their hands, mark the time and pray ecstatically (171 West 140th Street) .Abyssinian Baptist Church, a true architectural jewel with splendid mosaic windows. It boasts a mighty choir and is a favorite destination for tourists. Long line to enter. (132 Odell Clark Place / West 138th Street) Mount Neboh Baptist Church Its choir, in addition to traditional sacred hymns, sings new versions of popular pieces such as “Oh Happy Day” and “At Calvary.” The service starts at 10.45. (1883 Adam Clayton Powell Ave) and finally
The Greater Refuge Temple, my favorite. Large modern amphitheater where numerous choirs alternate. The energy is sky high, the music is enthralling. , voices and prayers are transformed into a musical crescendo, accompanied by organ, drums, electric guitar, and by the numerous tambourines with which the elegant African American ladies mark and color the rhythm. (2081 Adam Clayton Powell Avenue)
The Greater Refuge Temple
Powerful voices and sensational harmonies result in a collective frenzy that ignites souls and turns into a real show. Video and photo shooting inside the church are prohibited. Unadvisable (and irreverent) to be smart.
For the black ladies, it is an opportunity to show off an elegant look and unpredictable hats.
Per le black ladies, l’appuntamento domenicale è anche un’occasione per sfoggiare un look elegante, acconciature elaborate e imprevedibili cappellini.
It’s time for lunch, one of the most popular soul food restaurants is Spoonbread Too which serves authentic Southern American home cooking, famous for gumbo, collard greens and traditional fried chicken.
Norma Jean, ieri e oggi
The restaurant is run by a Harlem icon: the legendary (and still beautiful) Norma Jean Darden, one of the first black top models in fashion history. Norma serves comfort food based on the family recipes she collected in the book Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine, written with her sister Carole.
il fortunatissimo libro libro Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine,
Among the classic dishes of the South, here is the “banana pudding” a banana pudding enriched with whipped cream or, just like the grandmothers of the South, with a meringue top. GRAND MA BANANA PUDDING
Il “banana pudding” di Norma Jean Darden
Norma Jean Darden’s “banana pudding”, a Southern dessert made with layers of vanilla custard, biscuits and slices of fresh bananas
Ingredients For 8 people 4 tablespoons of 00 flour 1 1/2 cup of sugar pinch of salt 3 separate large eggs (you will need the egg whites later for the meringue) 3 cups of milk 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract 1 box of vanilla wafers about 45 wafers 5-6 bananas 3 egg whites 1/8 teaspoon of cream of tartar 1/4 cup of sugar 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract Preparation Preheat the oven to 325º F. How to make custard for pudding Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Lightly whisk the egg yolks and whisk to combine with the milk in a large bowl or also use a large liquid measuring cup, such as 4 cups. Whisk the egg yolk mixture into the dry ingredients in the saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir constantly until the custard has thickened, remove from heat and add the vanilla extract. How to assemble banana pudding Arrange the vanilla wafers on the bottom of a 2-quart dish, such as an oven-safe glass bowl or dish. Slice the bananas and place them on top of the vanilla wafer layer. Pour 1/3 of the pudding over the waffles and bananas. Repeat the layering process, ending with a wafer layer. Grandma recommends serving it in a glass bowl How to make the meringue garnish: Use a very clean whisk and bowl that have been chilled for a while. Then, whip the egg whites with your electric whisk at very high speed. When the egg whites begin to foam, add the cream of tartar and then the sugar one tablespoon at a time. Continue beating the egg whites until all the sugar has dissolved and hard peaks form, then stir in the vanilla extract. Spread the meringue over the top of the pudding, taking care to spread it completely to the inside edge of the plate to completely cover the pudding. Cook for 25 minutes until the meringue is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and serve.
Nonna consiglia di servirlo in una ciotola di vetro
Spoonbread Too 366 West 110th Street, di fronte a Morningside Park, New York
Cesare Zucca Travel, food & lifestyle. Born in Milan, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world.For WEEKEND PREMIUM he photographs and talks about cities, cultures, lifestyles and discovers both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights. Cesare meets and interviews top chefs from all over the world, ‘steals’ their recipes and tells you everything in his blog, in style ‘Turista non Turista’
To avoid surprises, I relied on Accor, a large and tested hotel chain and I chose the 4 stars Hotel Mercure Wittenbergplatz, a central, modern, welcoming and excellent quality-price accommodation.
Mercure Wittenbergplatz is part of the mighty Accor chain, with facilities around the world. Excellent service, welcoming rooms, contemporary design and meticulous attention to hygiene and sanitation, as well as all the attention due in these times of Covid.
The ‘all safe’ label respects the new improved cleaning protocols and guarantees hygiene and prevention measures for the safety of the guests, from the sanitization from the rooms to the breakfast food that is scrupulously served in sealed containers.
The hotel overlooks the square of the same name, the metro is a stone’s throw away, and is located right next to the iconic KaDeWe, a colossal department store founded in 1907 and still a favorite destination for shopping, while on the top floor a colossal triumphs gourmet paradise, with shops, outlets, markets, restaurants, wines and food from all over the world.
NOT TO BE MISSED • Reichstag • Holocaust Memorial • The Museum of Film and Television
• The Wall and Checkpoint Charlie • Brandenburg Gate • The Dome • Tiergarten • Alexanderplatz and the TV Tower
THE MUSEUM ISLAND A spectacular ensemble made up of five great museums, UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Altes, the Neues, the Pergamon, the Bode and the Alte Nationalgalerie. Unmissable! You will find the Berlin WelcomeCard Card very useful, offering free admissions and transport as well as discounts, maps and useful addresses. It can be purchased in different parts of the city or online.
WHERE TO STAY 25hours Bikini Hotel Berlin Funky, young, fun, full of surprises, the 25hours hotels, spread across half of Europe, never disappoint. The Bikini, very close to the grandiose Zoo, is inspired by a trip to the jungle: relaxing hammocks, pelouche sweet monkeys, gadgets, and bicycles for rent (ideal for visiting the city).
Eco-friendly everywhere, also in the SPA and in the public spaces, full of greenery, glass and exposed pipes and the industrial ceiling left intact. The rooms are equally eccentric and trendy. IThe one I was staying in , had a cozy open-space shower, overlooking a wonderful panorama of the Zoo.
On the 10th floor, with a spectacular view of Berlin, you will find the NENI restaurant led by Chef Christian Drewitsch which offers a culinary mosaic inspired to Austrian, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern influences, with a touch of Israeli cuisine. The most important ingredient is sharing the table where everyone can try a little bit of everything.
It is difficult to identify a privileged area to choose where to sleep in Berlin. A bit like London, in fact, the German capital does not have a well-defined center and after the fall of the wall, the geographical importance of the places has undergone a downsizing. In any case it must be said that Berlin is a modern and well-organized city: whatever the area you choose, it will certainly be connected by public transport to get around the city quickly; moreover, during the weekends the subway also works at night. –
I Choose…HOTEL LOUISA’S PLACE
More than central location, excellent cleanliness of the structure, spacious and well-kept apartments, have kitchen with balcony equipped with chairs and table .. great for smokers … with the room key you can also open the central door … heated very well … very satisfying breakfast … all very nice … Located in the elegant Kurfürstendamm is an historical building and is located directly on the magnificent boulevard surrounded by sights, numerous designers boutiques, restaurants, bars .
Experience the charm of Berlin at the turn of the century in one of our 47 individual hotel suites. A hotel suite in our Louisa’s Place offers a unique living experience during your hotel stay. In our suites with a separate living room and bedroom you will find rest and a relaxing atmosphere after an eventful day. All our rooms impress with individual floor plans and classical interior. Choose your suite out of five different categories.
The hotel is named after Queen Luise of Prussia, and occupies a Prussian-era property that has been immaculately restored, complete with a handsome library with bookshelves, comfortable armchairs and classic lamps, antique furnishings (sadly, the lovely fireplace is fake), and tasteful, modern décor installed by local interior designer Etchika Werner. The resulting look is of homely elegance.
A typically Berlin-style luxury boutique hotel, Louisa’s Place is located on the prestigious Kufürstendamm shopping street, close to shops, restaurants, cafes and entertainment in central Berlin. This building dating back to 1904 has been completely restored, keeping its original style. The elegant interiors combine classic style with modernism, the antique style furniture and decorations blend perfectly with the best technologies. Equipped with forty-seven suites, all spacious and comfortable, furnished with classic furniture and wooden floors. All rooms have large, modern bathrooms and a fully equipped kitchen for short and long term stays.
Louisa’s Place offers a high standard of services that are hard to find in other small hotels like .A fully equipped kitchen with a fridge, stove and oven, microwave, coffee maker and kettle makes your stay many times easier for all guests who strive to keep their distance. Benefit from the possibility of being able to prepare a little something by yourself or to be able to take care of yourself completely.
Spacious family suites offer all the amenities for your family stay. They all have a separate bedroom and living room. Some family suites have a balcony or winter garden, so you can end the evening with a glass of wine.Talking of wine, the owners produce one of the most unique red called Bella’s Blend from The Heret Family, Sonoma County
When your stay on the occasion of leisure or work for a longer period you may have particular demands on your accommodation. The central location directly on the Kurfürstendamm is the ideal base for the city centre. Our suites with their generously-dimensioned living spaces and fully-equipped kitchens also cater ideally to the requirements of those who need a base for longer stays. We will delight you with the warm and personal service we extend to all our guests. Our comprehensive range of hotel services can be availed of by long-stay as well as short-stay guests.
The typical architectural style from the turn of the century gives each and every one of our 47 suites its own distinctive character. Different floor plans allow a range of personal preferences to be catered for in 5 different categories of stylish and comfortable suites ranging in size from 41 sqm to 102 sqm. Our Louisa’s Place suites are not only ideal for classic hotel stays. As they are generously dimensioned and have fully-equipped kitchens, they also boast everything that is necessary in a temporary home used for longer. We would be pleased to offer you a package tailored to your requirements.
The hotel is located towards the western end of the Kurfürstendamm – slightly quieter than the eastern end, but with plenty of shops, restaurants and theatres still within easy walking distance. The closest U-Bahn (Adenauer Platz) is a one-minute walk, and will bring you to sights such as the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church and the bustling Zoologischer Garten area in less than 10 minutes on foot.
As well as the library, there’s a well known Restaurant SAVU and Marcus & Mira hair salon on the ground floor, a small but refined lounge opposite reception, and a spacious basement spa with a decent-sized pool plus a fitness room, sauna, a couple of rooms for massage and cosmetic treatments, and its own small bar area with healthy drinks and snacks.
You will feel welcome to Kurfurstendamm and enjoy THE Louisas’s Place!
Welcome to Potsdam, the “German Versailles”, a historic destination in the Brandenburg region, Germany. It is located a short distance from Berlin, easily reachable by an S7-Bahn train and with a regular ticket that covers zones A, B, C. Rich in sumptuous palaces, many of which are Unesco heritage, it offers art, history, castles, wonderful parks and culinary delicatessen
NOT TO BE MISSED
Charlottenhof Castle Neuen Palais Barberini Museum Belvedere Sanssouci Palace and Park
My reccomendations The Cecilienhof Palace where Churchill, Truman and Stalin discussed the future of Germany in the famous 1945 Conference, currently the subject of an exhibition. Film Museum celebrates Studio Babelsberg, the center of German expressionist cinema of the 1920s: one of the oldest in the world, starring Marlene Dietrich and Fritz Lang, among others.
Dutch district the most characteristic of the whole city, adorned with 17th century buildings designed by the Dutch architect Boumann.
WHERE TO EAT Soup Bistro If you fancy a good soup Der Butt If you are a fish lover. Excellent traditional dish: eel with dill sauce.
Zum Fliegenden Hollaender Spartanly hasty, menu in German, although (reluctantly) they will give you the one in English. Typical dish: a rich roast of pork with plums and the traditional kartoffelklosse, potato dumplings, perhaps my favorite dish of the local cuisine. These great dumplings, also called kartoffelknödel, go well with meats and sauces. The ideal potatoes are the floury ones, such as Russets and Yukon Gold. They should be cooked with the peel, the day before. Cool, peel, mash and refrigerate for 12-24 hours and then mix with the flour, 1 cup of cornstarch, melted butter, eggs, salt and nutmeg. We then move on to the creation of the gnocchI which must be about 8 cm in diameter and hide a cube of stale bread inside. A gentle boil for about 15 minutes and your kartoffelklosse are ready to be served. Grandma’s trick To prevent the gnocchi from sticking to your hands, just wet them with water or dust them with flour.
( (in italian and english) —-
…e nel calice?
INFO
La Strada per il Teatro Greco, ispirata alla famosa scala di Trinità dei Monti a Roma. Conduce da Piazza Badia al Teatro Greco ed è popolata da bancarelle e negozietti di souvenir, chioschi di prodotti dolciari siciliani, ristoranti, bar e tanti venditori ambulanti, anche troppi…
Per fortuna pochi attimi dopo ci tuffiamo nello splendore del Teatro Greco, il più grande teatro classico d’Italia dopo quello di Siracusa. Un gioiello architettonico che colpisce per la perfetta acustica, e l’incanto del palcoscenico che ha ospitato concerti e gli spettacoli di rilievo internazionale.
Preparazione
Ingredients
Incrociamo via Toledo fino al meraviglioso Palazzo Carafa di Maddaloni. All’improvviso, il tortuoso itinerario prende respiro e sfocia nella Piazza del Gesù. Se siete appassionati di cinema, riconoscerete la facciata del Palazzo Pandola ha fatto da set L’oro di Napoli e Matrimonio all’italiana di Vittorio De Sica con la più grande diva napoletana: Sofia Loren.
Nelle 7 suites e 3 glam room, il classico degli affreschi incontra un design moderno e confortevole, le finestre si affacciano sulla città, un attento restauro ha conservato molte delle caratteristiche di questo magnifico edificio (soffitti con travi originali, splendide porte dipinte, finestre alte, pavimenti in cotto antico) mentre un mix di mobili antichi e contemporanei uniti ai comfort di oggi , lo rendono aggiornato e accogliente.
Lombardi continua a celebrare l’ illustre storia della pizza con farine attentamente selezionate e topping realizzati con ricercate materie prime, dal San Marzano Dop alla mozzarella di bufala campana Dop, mentre ogni mese arriva “La pizza del mese” che segue il ritmo delle stagioni. Al timone I maestri Pizzaioli Michele Lungo e Carmine Prisco che ci sorprendono con le loro pizze “gourmet” come l’ultimissima “new entry” alla pancetta, fichi e gorgonzola.
La Spezia stands out right In the center of the Gulf. Spezia is one of the main arsenals of the Italian Navy and an important merchant port. In the landscape there are villages, medieval churches and castles on the sea, sandy beaches and pastel-colored houses. Two important sporting events take place here: the Palio del Golfo, a rowing competition between the 13 villages of the Gulf and the Byron Cup for swimming in the open sea, while every 13 September, the patron saint of San Venerio is celebrated with an evocative pilgrimage to his sanctuary on the island of Tino.
In Spezia there is even the “
LONDON Where to stay
Due ristoranti: Nipa Thai serve autentica cucina tailandese e Island Grill, che offre piatti della tradizione locale. L’elegante Hyde Bar è perfetto per un cocktail. Il ricchissimo breakfast è servito nello splendido ristorante Park con vista mozzafiato sul parco.
Chi prenota direttamente può usufruire di un minibar gratuito rifornito ogni giorno. Si trova a pochi minuti da Victoria Station e della metropolitane Circle, District e Victoria, nonché il Gatwick Extress. Ah dimenticavo…. gli ospiti possono utilizzare il meraviglioso giardino privato antistante l’hotel!
BOUTIQUE HOTEL CASA ANGELINA, AMALFI COAST
A contemporary interpretation of the Italian Riviera; an innovative, intimate retreat of 43 guestrooms. Although just a few minutes’ drive from the destination village of Positano, Casa Angelina’s fishing village location immerses guests in an off-the-radar authenticity that occupies a prime spot on the Amalfi coast.Resting high up on the cliffs, the converted fishermen’s homes look to the future with an immaculately minimalist design complimented by exquisite Murano glass sculptures. 
Aperitivi are served at the on-trend Marrakech Bar, and the rooftop gourmet restaurant—Un Piano nel Cielo—offers sweeping views of the Gulf of Salerno. Guests are also encouraged to make use of the restorative spa and exclusive access to Casa Angelina´s own beach, La Gavitella, to fully appreciate la bella vita. 
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nontouristytourist.com 
