Text and Photos © Cesare Zucca

Berlin. Let’s discover a cool gastronomic destination in Mitte that pays homage to German political history with a contemporary, high-end twist.
Welcome to Berlin Bundesbüdchen, named after the legendary “federal kiosk” in Bonn where politicians and journalists once met for sausages and secrets, this heritage is now reinterpreted in a modern way and translates that spirit of unpretentious communication into a modern, light-filled dining space.

The restaurant’s interior features a kidney-shaped service pavilion modeled after the original 1950s kiosk, which now serves as a stylish bar and service station.
This “kiosk within a restaurant” is surrounded by elegant light-wood furnishings and an open glass kitchen, creating an atmosphere that is both nostalgic and avant-garde. It aims to be a place of “citizen proximity” and casual exchange, much like its namesake, but with significantly more culinary ambition.

Led by chef Johann Maier, the kitchen focuses on “Creative German” cuisine bringing together German and Alpine influences, creating a clear, seasonal cuisine with regional ingredients. The menu is a playful dialogue between rustic tradition and modern refinement, often incorporating international fermented elements like kimchi into classic Alpine dishes.

My tasting
It’s the asparagus season and Germany is famous for that vegetable that I adore, so I started with t,  started with a delicious Cream of white asparagus with sour dough croutons and spring herbs. On the table, Sourdough Bread with wipped butter and lovage

The menu spams for “Spring”dishes to “Classics” to “Signature”. From The “Klassiker” Selection I choose an elevated comfort food, Blutwurstknödel (blood pudding dumplings) served with caramelized cabbage then the  exquisite Chichen Liver parfait with Roscoff onion, long pepper and Shallot juice with seaweed.

Chef Maier surprised me with a classic ( and super seasonal) dish:
White asparagus from Beelitz aith sauce hollandaise and parsey potatoes.

To end a  “Chocolate Cremeux” dessert with walnut and dulce de leche

AFTER THE TASTING I HAD THE PLEASURE OF MEETING THE CHEF
Hello Johann, how long have you been running the show here?
I’ve been at the helm for about a year now.
What is your very first memory in the kitchen?
I actually grew up on a farm in Lower Bavaria, right near the Austrian border,
(laughs) don’t ask me why my hometown is called the “Venice of Bavaria”…
We had every kind of farm animal you can imagine, chickens, cows, and plenty of pigs. We handled everything ourselves: fresh meat, charcuterie, sausages, and even blood sausages. In fact, blood is an ingredient you’ll still find on my menu today, for example as filler of the potato knodel.

When did the professional “spark” happen?
Pretty early on. I was about 14 when my mom was celebrating her birthday. She’d hired a catering service, and they asked me to lend a hand. It was a total curveball because, honestly, back then my dream was to become an electrician!

If you hadn’t taken the path of a chef, what would you be doing now?
Probably a computer whiz. I’m fascinated by the digital world; I can spend hours at a keyboard and totally lose myself in it. I love graphic design. Truthfully, it still surprises me sometimes that I ended up as a chef—but I absolutely love what I do.
Let’s talk about the menu. How would you describe your style?
We have several sections, including a “Classics” selection, so I wouldn’t label my cooking as strictly traditional or purely avant-garde. I like my cuisine to bridge the gap between Germany and the South, stretching toward the Alps. I also enjoy adding Mediterranean flourishes and using Japanese fermentation techniques. It’s a menu that travels.

Speaking of traveling, where’s your favorite spot?
I head to Italy at least twice a year. I adore Tuscany and Puglia, and last year I discovered Piedmont for the first time. The food there is just spectacular!
Is there one dish you only ever eat if someone else cooks it?
My grandmother homemade Strudel. When it’s done right, the aroma is unforgettable—it smells like home.
What is the one thing I’ll always find in your fridge at home?
Tofu. It’s a total staple for me.

Text and Photos by Cesare Zucca

Welcome to Der Tresen-Treff, a traditional Berlin corner pub in the Wilmersdorf district, , successfully taken over and revitalized by the dynamic duo Laurens Friedl and Josha Kalborg, chefs but most of all , great friends.

The venue preserves the rustic charm of a classic West Berlin pub—featuring a dark wooden bar, cozy corner benches on a raised platform, and the typical “pub look.” It is a popular meeting spot for neighbors and regulars, but thanks to the new management, it also offers contemporary, high-quality artisanal cuisine where “homestyle” dishes  are prepared “with love” to a high gastronomic standard despite the casual pub setting.

I seriously hate herring… so I was definitely a bit skeptical when the chef brought out one of their signature dishes: Matjessalat.
Herring usually has that super intense “fishy” punch that scares people off. But Matjes is the ultimate game-changer! Since it’s caught before the fish matures, it’s basically the “butter of the sea” rather than a salt-bomb. It’s this German delicacy made from young Matjes herring—they’re caught in early summer and cured in oak barrels, which makes the fillets super mild, buttery, and incredibly soft. To top it off, the salad came with red onions and Senfeier (eggs in a creamy mustard sauce). The result? I absolutely loved it. And this is coming from a die-hard herring-hater! They were prepared with such a delicate touch and… so much love!

With the season in full swing, I had to treat myself to a dish that is surprisingly fresh yet totally classic: amazing Beelitzer white asparagus with a Hollandaise sauce so creamy it’s unreal. 

INTERVIEW:
Your first memory in the kitchen?
Laurels: Probably while watching my mom whip up a Moroccan tagine, typically made with sliced meat, poultry or fish together with vegetables or fruiIt. I think it jjust sparked something in me… I think that’s where the whole obsession started.
Josha: In Grandma’s kitchen, where it all began, eating a poached egg in a white herb soup, and let’s be real—that soup wasn’t exactly my favorite… but I was always curious. I’ve still got a bunch of photos of me “helping” my mom cook.And when did the professional spark actually fly?
Josha: Get this—at 28, I actually wanted to be a theater actor. But, well, the feeling wasn’t mutual. They didn’t want me! While I was struggling to pay for acting classes, someone asked if I could lend a hand to a restaurant chef. I decided to drop the drama and dive headfirst into cooking. Honestly? Best move ever.

So, what’s the “signature move” of your restaurant?
Laurels & Josha: We’re all about the tasting experience. We like to serve our dishes almost like tapas, so our guests don’t have to commit to just one thing. It gives everyone a chance to experiment with different flavors in one sitting.

And what are the crowd favorites?
Laurels & Josha: definitely the bacon and mustard “roulade vom rind” a beef roulade that we serve it with a silky mashed potatoes with bacon gravy and people just can’t get enough of it. Not to forget a classic hit from the german kitchen menu: “Königsberger Klopse, homemade meatballs (Bouletten), with lemmon sauce and capers, soft and tasty

I also tried your  amazing white asparagus, Delicious!
Josha: Thanks! , Yes with the season in full swing, we like to serve a dish that is surprisingly fresh yet totally classic: the one and only Beelitzer white asparagus with our Hollandaise creamy sauce.

I have to say that that sauce was such a hit that I managed to snag the recipe from the chefs… and voilà, here you go, thanks Chefs!

Ramson bearnaise sauce
For 6-10 portions
Ingredients
3 eggyolk
20g vinigrear
2pinches Salt
125g butter
125g ramson oel
Method
Mix the oil with ramson on 60c degree for 10min and give trough a sive
Whip the eggyolk with Salt and vinigraer on low Heat until its foam
Then work slowly the oil and liquid butter in
Then pull it in a Siphon and put two capsel on it

Tresen Treff
Berliner Straße 167, 10715 Berlin (Wilmersdorf
Phone: +49 30 8542880

Easter is coming!
The colomba, a classic “dove shaped” holiday cake graces the tables of Italians and around the world.

The annual “Regina Colomba” competition was held in Milan, where judges evaluated the desserts of competing pastry chefs from many Italian regions. I was one between them and I loved the  sweet  and delicious experience.

The competing desserts had in common that they were made with sourdough starter and all-natural ingredients, with no artificial additives, no artificial and/or identical natural flavors, no semi-finished products (so-called “mixes”), and no processing aids, because this event follows the “All natural, only artisanal” philosophy.

Here is the winning “Regina,” a creation by Master Pastry Chef Juri Caseri of Forneria del Lago (Paratico 8 Brescia), followed by the bridesmaids of honor of the Chefs from Pasticceria Memmolo and Pasticceria  Rizzo. Happy Easter!

My favorite?
With a whopping 98 points out of 100, it is undoubtedly the fragrant and exquisite Colomba created by master pastry chef Annibale Memmolo for his shop in Mirabella Eclano, in the province of Avellino. I discovered a real delicacy!
www.pasticceriamemmolo.com

Packaging is also important: the presentation itself is a wish for a happy Easter.For the best packaging I choose Colomba Segreta by Rustichella d’Abruzzo
Housed in a beautiful floral box, embellished with ribbons and a jewel. Inside are tiny chocolate eggs, as well as flowers and butterflies to decorate this wonderful dessert, which you can enrich with gianduia and pistachio cream.

A soft, fragrant, and naturally scented dough, the result of slow artisanal leavening, releases delicate and enveloping aromas. The surface is embellished with a crunchy almond glaze, creating the perfect balance between softness and texture, making every bite a genuine and timeless experience.

HAPPY EASTER!

Bologna è conosciuta con i soprannomi di “la Dotta” e “la Grassa”, che ne riassumono perfettamente l’identità. “La Dotta” si riferisce alla presenza della prestigiosa Università di Bologna, fondata nel 1088 e considerata la più antica università del mondo occidentale. Da secoli attira studenti da ogni parte, contribuendo a creare un ambiente vivace, culturale e ricco di stimoli intellettuali.

Il soprannome “la Grassa”, invece, celebra la straordinaria tradizione gastronomica della città. Bologna è famosa per piatti iconici come le tagliatelle al ragù, i tortellini e la mortadella, simboli di una cucina ricca, sostanziosa e profondamente legata al territorio. Il cibo qui non è solo nutrimento, ma un elemento centrale della cultura e della socialità.

Ed è proprio “la Grassa” che oggi ci fa scoprire un piccolo paradiso della cucina locale, sia tradizionale che rivisitata.

Siamo a “Da Lucia,” dove ci accoglie un ambiente: piccolo, elegante e molto accogliente, spesso scelto anche per cene romantiche. La gestione è  gestito dalla simpaticissima coppia Lucia e Chef Rosario Varriale………con cui mi sono intrattenuto in una simpatica chiacchierata.

Buongiorno Rosario, il suo primo ricordo da bimbo in cucina?
L’indimenticabile zabaione di zio Pietro con l’uovo montato e la sua crema di patate.. Io curiosavo e assaggiavo. La passione è continuata. e poi piano piano, verso i 18 anni, è scattata la scintilla professionale, lavorando da Chef Cesari.

Nel suo menu noto una evidente “bolognesità”, ma anche ispirazioni orientali,
Si, ho fortunatamente conosciuto una signora giapponese che ma ha insegnato qualche tecnica orientale di cui mi sono innamorato.. Cosi mi sono inventato soprattutto di pesce, come il tonno rosso marinato e scottato servito con radicchio rosso, cipolla rossa caramellata e mayonese di soia, il polpo in salsa teriakye alghe wakame e  la seppia arrosto con pak choi e fiori di mandorla,

E’ Chef anche a casa?
(sorride) Assolutamente no… per fortuna c’è mia moglie Lucia, ottima cuoca, basterebbe citare le sue deliziose polpette al pomodoro di cui in famiglia ne andiamo tutti matti…
C’è un piatto che ama gustare quando cucinato da un altro Chef?
Si, forse il piatto più caratteristico della cucina bolognese: le tagliatelle al ragù !
Mi incuriosisce assaggiare quelle degli altri! Le trovo al ristorante Arcimboldo e alla Trattoria da Me, ma, così dicono, anche le mie sono top!

Il suo menu. Come lo ha impostato?
Tradizione emiliana più cucina contemporanea,
La mia cucina percorre una strada tradizionale, ma anche contemporanea e innovativa.
Pasta e pane rigorosamente fatti in casa.

Tra i suoi piatti di carne “signature”?
Un rollè di coniglio ripieno di salsiccie, cardoncello, il suo fondo su un cremoso di patatee spinaci croccanti e le animelle di vitello .zucca. cardoncelli e fondo bruno

Mi sembra che la creatività non le manchi…
Direi di sei, per esempio il tipico piatto di”balanzoni” di Cesari, che servo su fonduta di parmigiano con una nota croccante di prosciutto di Parma , i tagliolini mantecati burro e limone, lupini di mare e caviale oppure i nostri “bottoni” ripieni di cacio e pepe liquido, bisque di crudo di gamberi e olio al prezzemolo.

Ristorante Enoteca da Lucia, Via Broccaindosso 63/B, Bologna
www.ristorantedalucia.it/

Le “Regine della Pizza”: Napoli o New York?

Testo e Foto di Cesare Zucca
(Italian and English versions)

Il 17 gennaio, in occasione della festa di Sant’Antonio Abate (patrono di fornai e pizzaioli), si celebra il World Pizza Day, in cui il mondo, tra tradizione millenaria e innovazione metropolitana, omaggia un’arte capace di diventare patrimonio culturale UNESCO. In una sfida globale, due città si contendono lo scettro: Napoli, la “mamma” della pizza, e New York, dove la pizza è diventata una superstar da copertina, celebrata da riviste come Time Out e protagonista di festival spettacolari.

On January 17th, on the feast of Saint Anthony Abbot (patron saint of bakers and pizza makers), the World Pizza Day is celebrated — a moment when the world pays tribute to an art that blends ancient tradition with metropolitan innovation, and has earned its place as a UNESCO cultural heritage. In a global showdown, two cities battle for the crown: Naples, the “mother” of pizza, and New York, where pizza has become a cover-star superstar, celebrated by magazines like Time Out and starring in spectacular festivals.

Le pizze più originali e di eccellenza in Italia nel 2026, secondo le guide Gambero Rosso e 50 Top Pizza, provengono da maestri come Franco Pepe (Caiazzo) e Simone Padoan (San Bonifacio) per la pizza tradizionale, Gabriele Bonci (Roma) Sophia Loren (Milano) Geppo( la più bassa e più economica della città)  per la pizza al taglio, mentre tra le innovative spiccano le creazioni di Confine (Milano) e Bob Alchimia a Spicchi (Montepaone)
In 2026, the most original and outstanding pizzas in Italy, according to the Gambero Rosso and 50 Top Pizza guides, come from masters of the craft such as Franco Pepe (Caiazzo) and Simone Padoan (San Bonifacio) for traditional pizza. When it comes to pizza al taglio, the spotlight shines on Gabriele Bonci (Rome), Sophia Loren (Milan), and Geppo — famous for serving the flattest and most affordable slice in the city. On the innovation front, the scene is led by bold creations from Confine (Milan) and Bob Alchimia a Spicchi (Montepaone), where pizza turns into pure experimentation.

Quali sono i trend e gli ingredienti top per il 2026?
Sperimentazione con impasti e lieviti, focus su farine antiche, lunghe lievitazioni e processi enzimatici per basi più digeribili e gustose, ingredienti locali e sostenibili, uso di prodotti a km zero, presidi Slow Food, verdure insolite e tecniche di conservazione innovative, premiando la biodiversità. Infine un largo spazio alle pizze vegane e vegetariane che esaltano il mondo vegetale con maestria, 
What are the top trends and ingredients for 2026?
Experimentation with doughs and yeasts takes center stage, with a strong focus on ancient grains, long fermentation times, and enzymatic processes that create lighter, more digestible, and more flavorful bases. Toppings highlight local and sustainable ingredients, with an emphasis on zero-kilometer products, Slow Food Presidia, unusual vegetables, and innovative preservation techniques that celebrate biodiversity. Finally, there is growing space for vegan and vegetarian pizzas, where plant-based ingredients are elevated with skill and creativity, turning the vegetable world into the true star of the slice.

And the winner is…
Una pizza che osa accostamenti audaci, fondendo tradizione e avanguardia. Ecco la “Marinara Atomica” di I Masanielli (Caserta), vincitrice del premio Pizza dell’Anno 2025. E’ fatta con ragù di San Marzano, olio e cipolla soffritta, cotto per 12 ore, poi trasformato in mousse, col pomodoro secco del Piennolo.
And the winner is…
A pizza that dares bold pairings, blending tradition with avant-garde flair. Meet the Marinara Atomica by I Masanielli (Caserta), crowned Pizza of the Year 2025.It features a San Marzano ragù cooked for 12 hours with olive oil and sautéed onion, then transformed into a silky mousse, finished with sun-dried Piennolo tomatoes.

NAPOLI, dove tutto ha avuto inizio
Universalmente riconosciuta come la patria della pizza, Napoli la vive come un simbolo della propria anima popolare. Già nel Settecento, tra i vicoli del centro, si vendevano focacce condite con strutto e aglio. Pensate che un tempo esisteva la “pizza a otto”: si mangiava subito e si pagava dopo otto giorni, un patto di fiducia tra pizzaiolo e cliente. L’incontro con il pomodoro e la mozzarella di bufala ha poi trasformato questo piatto povero in un’icona mondiale. 

NAPLES, where it all began
Universally recognized as the birthplace of pizza, Naples lives and breathes it as a symbol of its popular soul. As far back as the 18th century, the city’s narrow streets were filled with focacce topped with lard and garlic. Believe it or not, there used to be the “pizza a otto”: eaten immediately but paid for eight days later — a pact of trust between pizzaiolo and customer. The arrival of tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella eventually transformed this humble dish into a global icon.

Ecco le pizzerie top di Napoli
Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba
Considerata la pizzeria più antica del mondo.
Da Michele
Il tempio della tradizione: serve solo Margherita e Marinara.
Starita a Materdei
Celebre per la Montanara (fritta e poi al forno) e per il film “L’oro di Napoli” con Sophia Loren.

50 Kalò
L’eccellenza contemporanea, amata dai gourmet locali.
Gino e Totò Sorbillo
L’icona di Via Tribunali, tappa obbligata per turisti e residenti.
Brandi
Punto di riferimento per l’alta qualità dell’impasto e degli ingredienti.
Starita a Materdei
Celebre per la Montanara (fritta e poi al forno) e per il film “L’oro di Napoli” con Sophia Loren.
La Notizia 94
Punto di riferimento per l’alta qualità dell’impasto e degli ingredienti.

Top Pizza in Naples
Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba
Considered the oldest pizzeria in the world.
Da Michele
The temple of tradition: it serves only Margherita and Marinara.
50 Kalò
Contemporary excellence, loved by local gourmets.
Gino e Totò Sorbillo
The icon of Via Tribunali, a must-stop for tourists and locals alike.
Brandi
A benchmark for the high quality of its dough and ingredients.
La Notizia 94
A benchmark for the high quality of its dough and ingredients.
Starita a Materdei
Famous for the Montanara (fried and then baked) and for the film “The Gold of Naples” starring Sophia Loren

NEW YORK, la reinvenzione
La storia della pizza americana inizia nel 1897, quando l’immigrato Gennaro Lombardi aprì un alimentari a Little Italy. L’idea vincente fu del suo dipendente, Antonio Totonno, che propose di vendere questo cibo allora sconosciuto. Da lì è nata la slice (la fetta triangolare) da mangiare in piedi, a qualsiasi ora.
La creatività è estrema: dalle versioni “gourmet” a quelle più bizzarre (ananas, maccheroni o cioccolato), la città non smette mai di sperimentare.

NEW YORK, the reinvention
The story of American pizza begins in 1897, when Italian immigrant Gennaro Lombardi opened a grocery store in Little Italy. The game-changing idea came from his employee, Antonio “Totonno,” who suggested selling this then-unknown food. That’s how the iconic slice was born — a triangular cut meant to be eaten standing up, anytime, anywhere. Creativity here knows no limits: from gourmet takes to the wildest combos (pineapple, mac and cheese, even chocolate), the city never stops experimenting.

Top Pizzerie a Manhattan e Dintorni
John’s of Bleecker Street: Leggendaria per la cottura nel forno a carbone; tra i suoi fan Al Pacino e Frank Sinatra.
Lombardi’s: La prima pizzeria d’America (32 Spring St), ancora oggi meta di lunghi pellegrinaggi.
Don Antonio: Il punto di riferimento per chi cerca l’autentica scuola napoletana a NYC.
Song’ E Napule: Pizza napoletana contemporanea dal gusto verace.

Rubirosa: Celebre per la sua crosta sottilissima, perfetto mix italo-americano.
Kesté ( la mia preferita, ingredienti d’eccellezza)
New York offre anche varianti esotiche come la venezuelana Pasita (con ropa vieja) o la Tart flambe francese al Café D’Alsace. Per chi va di fretta, l’autentica “slice on the road” si trova da Nolita Pizza, Quality Pizza Co. o Abitino’s nel Financial District.

Top Pizzerias in Manhattan & Beyond
John’s of Bleecker Street – A legend for its coal-fired oven; fans include Al Pacino and Frank Sinatra.
Lombardi’s – America’s first pizzeria (32 Spring St), still a pilgrimage site for pizza lovers from all over the world.
Don Antonio – The go-to spot for those craving authentic Neapolitan pizza in NYC.
Song’ E Napule – Contemporary Neapolitan pizza with a bold, unmistakably Italian soul.

Rubirosa – Famous for its ultra-thin crust, a perfect Italian-American hybrid.
Kesté – My personal favorite, thanks to its top-quality ingredients and flawless execution.
New York also embraces exotic twists, like the Venezuelan Pasita pizza topped with ropa vieja, or the French tarte flambée served at Café d’Alsace. And for those always on the move, the true “slice on the road” can be found at Nolita Pizza, Quality Pizza Co., or Abitino’s in the Financial District.

VIVA LAS VEGAS!
Tra neon, roulettes e slot machines, Las Vegas ospita l’International Pizza Expo, che si terrà dal 24 al 26 marzo. È il più grande evento mondiale del settore, dove migliaia di visitatori scoprono nuove idee tra oltre mille espositori. Non solo gare di gusto, ma anche competizioni di velocità e il World Pizza Games, una sfida di freestyle dove i pizzaioli fanno roteare gli impasti con acrobazie a tempo di musica.
VIVA LAS VEGAS!
Between roulette wheels and slot machines, Las Vegas hosts the International Pizza Expo, taking place from March 24 to 26. It’s the world’s largest event dedicated to pizza, where thousands of visitors explore fresh ideas across more than 1,000 exhibitors. It’s not just about flavor competitions: the show also features speed challenges and the legendary World Pizza Games, a freestyle battle where pizza makers spin dough in mid-air, pulling off jaw-dropping acrobatics to the beat of the music.

Che sia la “verace” di un vicolo napoletano, una “slice” tra i grattacieli di Manhattan o una “acrobatica”di Las Vegas,  la pizza resta un linguaggio universale capace di unire il mondo intero in un solo morso.
Whether it’s the verace pizza from a Neapolitan alley, a slice grabbed between Manhattan skyscrapers, or an acrobatic creation in Las Vegas, pizza remains a universal language — one that brings the whole world together in a single bite.