Text and photos by Cesare Zucca
Cirque du Soleil? I am a big , long-time fan….
I saw the very first Mystere, followed by the incomparable Alegria, then Saltibanco and obviously didn’t miss the acquatic acrobatis in O or the sexy performances in Zumanity with the amazing costumes by legendary Thierry Mugler, I also saw the movie and never, never got disappointed.
Last night, in Milan, I was litterally curious to see Michel Laprise’s “Kurios -Cabinet of Curiosities” and I must say that again I enjoyed another artistic masterpiece, where 49 amazing artists take the viewer into a fascinating and mysterious world, which disorients the senses and perceptions of the reality. A show that stimulates the imagination, where the impossible becomes possible
.Seeing men lower themselves from the ceiling onto a skyscraper of chairs is breath-taking, as are the many acrobatics in flight.Men-fishes, women lizzard, hands that dance and move like human bbeing, a bicycle rider up in the sky, more acrobatic feats, flips and twists, human towers, soaring flight and impossible landings, as well as juggling, contortionism, a virtuoso yo-yo-ing, the amazing duo Volodymyr Klavdich and Ekaterina Evdokimova and those hilarious fellinian comedians who know how to entertain the public… Lights, costumes, music, in a world that looks coming out from a Julius Verne’s book
Here dinner guests are amazed by the telekinetic powers of one of the diners who is able to make a chandelier suspended above their heads move.Suddenly, the group realizes that their exact double exists in a parallel universe... This is just an example how Kurios makes storytelling its strong point like an upside down world of poetry and humor where perspectives are transformed.“KURIOS – Cabinet of Curiosities” is a brilliant mix of unusual curiosities and breathtaking acrobatic feats, a true blockbuster in pure Cirque du Soleil style, This circus is known for not having animals performances, well Kurios introduces a lIon…. well is an invisible one….
All of that will happen in the 2,600 seats yellow and blue Grand Chapiteau circus tent, 20 meters high with a diameter of approximately 52 meters, supported by 4 trees, each 26 meters high.
Big numbers? Well, it ‘s the Cirque du Soleil….
KURIOS will perform in Milan till June 25th , 2023
To purchase tickets
testo e foto di Cesare Zucca Il grande successo cinematografico di Steven Spielberg ha dato vita a creature affascinanti e terrificanti, conquistando il pubblico di tutto il mondo.
La meravigliosa colonna sonora è stata firmata dal pluri premio Oscar John Williams che così ha raccontato “ mi è piaciuta molto la sfida di provare a raccontare musicalmente la storia di questo spettacolare film.
Questa sera possiamo crogiolarci nel magnifico suono prodotto dall’Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano diretta dal Maestro Ernst Van Tiel, mentre esegue l’intera partitura dal vivo.a nome di tutti coloro che sono coinvolti nella realizzazione di questo Jurassic Park concerto, devo dire che siamo molto onorati…
Spero che il pubblico di stasera abbia la stessa gioia che abbiamo provato noi durante la realizzazione del film più di vent’anni fa“.
Jurassic Park con 80 professori dell’ Orchestra sinfonica di Milano diretti dal Maestro Ernst Van Tiel, dal vivo sarà in scena oggi giovedì 1 giugno alle ore 20,30 nello splendido Auditorium di Milano in Largo Gustav Mahler., Milano Un’avventura, un’esperienza, una magia da non perdere!
Good Will Hunting is a 1997 American psychological drama film directed by Gus Van Sant, and written by Ben Affleck and Matt Damon, starring Robin Williams. The movie won the Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay. It’s a story written by Tom Schulman about bonds, relationships and encounters that change men deeply. for poetry, for free thought, for life. That love that drives us to help others excel by following our own passions, impulses, magnificent and sometimes irrational leaps, regardless of structured and imposed social dictates.
Thirty years after its cinematic debut the play still represents a milestone in the experience of thousands of people around the world. Bringing the story of the young students of the Welton Academy to the stage and their meeting with Professor Keating means giving new life to these ties, renewing that experience in those who have a strong memory of the cinematic film and making it discover to those new generations who, perhaps, they haven’t yet seen this story told on the big screen and still don’t know “that the mighty show goes on, and that you can contribute a verse.”
Luca Bastianello plays the charming Professor Keating, expelled from a prestigious American college for his educational methods too unconventional with respect to the strict US protocol. Luca is surrounded by his six young students.Excellent lighting and musics.among the “chair choreography” that evidences places and times.
The stage version, directed by Director Marco Iacomelli and co-directed by Costanza Filaroni premiered last night and will run until May 7th 202
Good Will Hunting (L’attimo fuggente) on stage at Teatro Parenti, Milan.
by Cesare Zucca
Good Will Hunting is a 1997 American psychological drama film directed by Gus Van Sant, and written by Ben Affleck and Matt Damon, starring Robin Williams.
The movie won the Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay.
It’s a story written by Tom Schulman about bonds, relationships and encounters that change men deeply. for poetry, for free thought, for life. That love that drives us to help others excel by following our own passions, impulses, magnificent and sometimes irrational leaps, regardless of structured and imposed social dictates.
Thirty years after its cinematic debut the play still represents a milestone in the experience of thousands of people around the world. Bringing the story of the young students of the Welton Academy to the stage and their meeting with Professor Keating means giving new life to these ties, renewing that experience in those who have a strong memory of the cinematic film and making it discover to those new generations who, perhaps, they haven’t yet seen this story told on the big screen and still don’t know “that the mighty show goes on, and that you can contribute a verse.”
Luca Bastianello plays the charming Professor Keating, expelled from a prestigious American college for his educational methods too unconventional with respect to the strict US protocol. Luca is surrounded by his six young students Excellent lighting and musics.among the “chair choreography” that evidences places and times.
The stage version, directed by Director Marco Iacomelli and co-directed by Costanza Filaroni premiered last night and will run until May 7th 202
The company “Il Balletto di Milano” at the Giorgio Gaber Theatre, Milan with an intense, lively, romantic and humorous performance dedicated to the French Chansonniers and their unforgettable songs such as La Boheme, Les comediens, and the voices of Jacques Brel, CharlesAznavour , Dalida and Edit Piaf.
The music becomes stories in a danced version that amazes, amuses emotion and acts as a prelude to Ravel’s Bolero proposed in a choreographic version of extraordinary impact game of eternal seduction story of a birth of an inevitable attraction towards a beingsimilar where the sinuous bodies of the dancers come to life and intertwine a dance that drags you to the surprising finale.
Expect a fierce and unstoppable corps de ballet, among the solo dancers Giusy Vilara’, Alessia Sasso, Mattia Imperatore, Emanuel Ippolito.
The show It will be repeated on Sunday 16th Aprilà.
La compagnia“Il Balletto di Milano” al teatro Lirico Giorgio Gaber , Milano con un’intensa, vivace ,romantica e umoristica performance dedicata agli chansonnier francesi e le loro indimenticabili canzoni come La Boheme , Les comediens, e le voci di Jaaques Brel, Charles Aznavour , Dalida e Edit Piafin una versione danzata che stupisce diverte e emoziona. e fa da preludio alla seconda parte dove “Bolero”di Ravel proposto in una versione coreografica di straordinario impatto gioco di seduzione eterna storia di una nascita di un’attrazione inevitabile verso un essere simile dove i corpi sinuosi dei ballerini prendono vita e intrecciano una danza che trascina fino al sorprendente finale
Aspettatevi un corpo di ballo agguerrito e inarrestabile , tra i danzatori solista Giusy Vilara’ , Alessia Sasso, Mattia Imperatore , Emanuel Ippolito che concedono un inaspettato bis sulle note di Stomaeo. Modeno e classico si incontrano e danzano insieme, Si replica domenica 16 aprile.
What if Romeo and Juliet were two teenagers of today? There are over forty film versions of Romeo and Juliet, with the first in 1900. The 1936 version was one of Hollywood’s most important classics.Irving Thalberg spared no expense, and cast his wife, Norma Shearer, in the lead role.The film West Side Story, inspired by Romeo and Juliet with music by Leonard Bernstein, won 10 Oscars. In 1968 Franco Zeffirelli directed the film which won two Oscars. Abel Ferrara made his film “China Girl” stages the Shakespeare’s tragedy. in New York, making a noir reinterpretation of the story, played by an Italian pizza chef and the sister of a Chinese mafia boss.
.The 1996 film Romeo + Juliet by William Shakespeare, directed by Baz Luhrmann, gave a turnaround.Despite the contemporary setting (it takes place in Verona Beach, between gangsters and neon lights, starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Claire Danes.
WHAT ABOUT A “NEW” ROMEO AND JULIET THE THEATRE? The greatest love story ever told needed an exceptional narrator and it found him in one of the greatest, creative and innovative Italian directors and screenwriters: Mario Martoneto whom we owe the direction of “Quirido io”, “Nostalgia”, “The mayor of the Sanità district”, “Il Giovane Favoloso” , “Capri-Revolution” “We believed” “Death of a Neapolitan mathematician”
His movies have been awarded with the most prstigious prices, such as Nastro d’Argento , Venice Film Festival Coppa Volpi, and the David of Donatello (the Italian Oscar) as well as his memorable “cinematic” directions of major operas including “La Traviata”, “La Boheme”, “The Barber of Seville”
The spectacular staging of “La Traviata”
Martone, is one without a doubt, one of the greatest and most innovative Italian minds, both in ciinema, theater and opera, never afraid of challenging classics masterpieces.
For his first time directing a play at the Piccolo Teatro Strehler in Milano , Martone
At the heart of the text is love, as sudden and intense as it can be between two adolescents, and rendered even stronger by adversity, with a driving urge to cancel any obstacle that stands in its way. It is a fable, with all the trimmings – magic potions, the trials of the two lovers, exile, the main character’s allies and enemies, the arranged marriage, duels but without the happy ending.
More than four centuries later, the themes of the work are significantly central to our daily lives: “We present a world ruled by senseless conflict, in which the very meaning of existence appears to lie in conflict – explains Martone -. A plague that renders the delivery of a letter impossible, while people continue to party. An innocent and rebellious love that suddenly emerges to escape all of this. A love illuminated exclusively by the light of the moon and of the dawn, with only the birds to witness it. Nature, ever present, awaiting a change that will never come”.
For his version of this extremely popular work that has been revisited for the theatre, cinema, opera and ballet, Martone has chosen a company of young actors accompanied by a number of theatrical professionals.
It’s a contemporary story of a sudden love,, a story of two teenagers, made even stronger by adversity, eager only to break down any obstacle to its own realisation.. The scenography is a sort of tree that crosses the stage and on which the actors move, suspended as if on the branches of a forest, while the ground takes us to an urban suburb, perfect scenario for the fightings between metropolitan gangs.
The encounter of two worlds and two generations The underground one of a suburb frequented by hooligans and bitter enemy gangs ready to sneer in the duel while on the raised floor, well defended by the mighty branches of a gigantic tree, there is a world populated by rich families, parties, music and smiles.
It is strange to see how finally the world above reaches the world below; just the corpse of Juliet that flies from the upper world to the one below underlining a fall of her towards a hell where she, instead of finding peace and reuniting with her beloved Romeo, she will instead find tragedy
I would like to anticipate a particularly unexpected moment during the preparations for the presumed wedding between Juliet and Paris of the presumed wedding where the band with a pure Roman accent discusses the pay and, encouraged tio play the popular cheesy song “Felicità” (happiness). The cast 30 actors from different generations: two very young protagonists: Francesco Gheghi as Romeo and Anita Serafini as Juliet, Alessandro Bay Rossi, as a great Mercuzio, the flamboyant Licia Lanera as Juliet’s aunt (Licia Lanera). the icy mother Capuleti Lucrezia Guidone, (Gabriele Benedetti), a clumsy Padre Lorenzo, and a remarkable Father Capuleti (Michele Di Mauro) as Capuleti Father
And this alternation of dramatic moments to lines deliberately light and provocative jokes, First of all those of Juliet’s longtime baby sitter who in Martone’s version has become the Aunt Angelica
WHERE? Founded on 14 May 1947 by Giorgio Strehler, Paolo Grassi and Nina Vinchi, the Piccolo Teatro di Milano was the first public Italian repertory theatre to be established and is the most important both in Italy and abroad.
The Piccolo manages three auditoriums: the original location renamed Piccolo Teatro Grassi, the Teatro Studio experimental space that also houses the School of Theatre and finally the main theatre with 968 seats, which was inaugurated in 1998 and which bears the name of Piccolo Teatro Strehler. In more than seventy years of activity, the Piccolo has produced approximately 400 shows, half of which were directed by the great Director Giorgio Strehler,
Today’s Romeo and Julie: Anita and Francesco
How to describe this extraordinary play?
A senseless hatred, a young and rebellious love witnessed only by nature, an epidemic that follows unclear rules; this reading by Mario Martone highlights a number of surprising points of contact between Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and our present.
The Cast
Last night was the last performance at Piccolo of Martonei’s Romeo and Juliet and I really hope that this excellent piece of art would return not only to the Piccolo’s stage but would travel to enchant many other Italian and foreign theatres, Want to know the reason? Because is a story that speaks to everybody, excites, amaze and conquers from the moment of the first lovers encounter, to the hidden marriage to the tragic end. And above all that, it still makes us dream
Mario Martone tra i suoi giovani attori Francesco Gheghi (Romeo) e Anita Serafini (Giuietta)
CESARE ZUCCA Travel, food & lifestyle. Milanese by birth, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world where he photographs and writes about cities, cultures, lifestyles.art, entertainment. He likes to discover both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights among meeting and interviewing top chefs from all over the world, ‘steals’ their recipes in a ” non touristy tourist ” style
LEGACY HELMUT NEWTON The exhibition – promoted by the Municipality of Milano-Cultura and produced by Palazzo Reale and Marsilio Arte, in collaboration with the Helmut Newton Foundation of Berlin This amazing exhibit is curated by Matthias Harder, director of the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, and by Denis Curti, and traces the entire career of one of the most loved and discussed photographers of all time through 250 photographs, magazines, documents and videos.
It proposes, alongside the most iconic images, a corpus of unpublished photographs, presented for the first time in Italy, which will reveal many lesser-known aspects of Newton’s work, with a specific focus on the most unconventional fashion shots.
Polaroids and contact sheets will also provide information on the creative process of some of the iconic motifs on display, while special publications, archival materials and statements by the photographer will help the visitor understand the context in which the inspiration of this extraordinary artist was born.
le polaroids inedite di Helmut Newton
In a journey divided into chronological chapters, visitors will be able to go through all the phases and evolutions of Newton’s life and career, from the beginning to the last years of production
The exhibition is part of the Milan Art Week (April 11th -16th 2023), the widespread event coordinated by the Municipality of Milan – Department of Culture, in collaboration with miart, the international modern and contemporary art fair in Milan. Do you want to see more ? Here my Instagram Video https://www.instagram.com/p/Cqnu-ZuJAne/
CESARE ZUCCA Travel, food & lifestyle.
Milanese by birth, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world, where he photographs and writes about cities, cultures, lifestyles. He likes to discover both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights. Cesare meets and interview top chefs from all over the world, ‘steals’ their recipes in a ” non touristy tourist ” style
Milano, Teatro Parenti (former Salone Pier Lombardo) was created in 1972, by Franco Parenti e Andrée Ruth Shammah, with Giovanni Testori, Dante Isella and Gian Maurizio Fercioni, From there till now it has been a point of reference for the cultural and artistic life of the city of Milan. Oriented both towards new Italian and foreign productions and towards the reinterpretation of classic texts in a contemporary key, the Salone expands its activities by hosting cultural events, concerts, film reviews, conferences and book presentations.
Designer Michele de Lucchi transformed the place into several theaters three levels and equipped with three rooms that can be used simultaneously.The renovation of the theater will be followed by the recovery of the adjacent Caimi Bathing Center, built in the 1930s as a multifunctional space.The redevelopment of the complex and its rebirth as “Bagni Misteriosi “ has returned a monumental asset to Milan, transforming the spaces of the swimming pool, now suitable for bathing again, into an evocative setting for shows, concerts and various types of events.. You enjoy a guided tour of the Theater followed by an aperitif and a show is a unique opportunity to enter this historic Milanese structure.Thanks to the visit exclusively for Milanoguida, it will be possible to walk through the spaces designed by de Lucchi and stroll by the magical swimming pool of the Bagni Misteriosi. ON STAGE NOW
Italian born Anna Galiena started her carrier with acting classes in New York, including the famous Elia Kazan Actor Studio, while on stage she played Giuliet in Shakespeare’s Romeo e Giulietta and Nina in The Seagull by Cechov
Back to Europe, she performed in Italian, Spanish, French hit movies, gaining great success, and becoming a very popular star. For her return to the theatre, the actress stages great moments from the classics ten characters who interact and converse with each other, bringing the dualism of the human being to the stage and allowing the viewer to take part in a path of exploration of this dualism. The title of the play is Couples and Doubles, where the actress revisits, adapts and interprets some of the playwright’s most representative dialogues, giving life to ten characters who, by interacting with each other, bring the dualism of the human being to the stage.
The texts translated and adapted by the actress are taken from Richard III, Romeo and Juliet, Macbeth, Hamlet, A Midsummer Night’s Dream and Othello, from the most passionate passages to the most violent ones, from irony to the infinite variations of sentiment, to express the double of theater and life and to symbolically mark the passage from classical theater to the Elizabethan one – the men with and against men.
«The theatre, says Anna, remains my home. As much as I have always loved cinema, there is one big difference: the theater belongs to the actors, in the sense that they are ultimately responsible for it in front of the public. Cinema, on the other hand, belongs to directors». The show boasts her own translation and adaptation, aiming to conceive and create an immersion in the luxuriant world of Shakespearean passions, where everything mixes, as in life: love, of course, but also jealousy , deceit, betrayal, desire, guilt, in an almost inexhaustible game of references and variations.
Tragic, light, cynical heroics follow one another in the infinite variations of sentiment to express even the double of theater and life. 12 characters who interact with each other bring the dualism of the human being to the stage. The scenes are taken from Richard III, Romeo and Juliet , Macbeth, Hamlet, A midsummer night’s dream, Othello The stage is really essential four cubes around which Galiena moves. Excellent lighting.
If I may say my personal opinion, I found the lack of any kind of note or warning illustrating the next scene or the next dialogue, I guess the audience perhaps manages to catch the duet between Romeo and Juliet both waiting for the song of the lark, of coursethe Hamlet “to be or not to be” and perhaps a reference to a midsummer night’s dream.
I think that few world on a screen or a voice-over explaining from which play that moment is from and what is going on, could help the audience
.Anna shows off her extraordinary personality among grit, tenderness and intimacy with an amazing memory of the lines.
Brava!
“Everybody is talking about Jamie” ( Tutti parlano di Jamie)
Giancarlo Commare made his debut in the theater , attended the acting academy , and then devoted himself to cinema and television , until the highly reviewed movie ” Mascarpone” (Masculine Singular) where Giancarlo plays Antonio, a 30 yo family man, whose life finds anunexpected twist when he’s suddenly dumped by his husband, whom he depends both psychologically and economically: he needs to find a new place to stay, a job and a new purpose in life.Antonio finds a room in an apartment owned by Denis and starts to work in a bakery owned by Luca, while attending pastry school.Through this process he discovers that it was wrong of him to give up his independence for the sake of his relationship in the past.. Giancarlo appeared as a lead in the TV movie “Rinascere” a real story of Manuel Bortuzzo, a professional swimmer, innocent victim of a shooting of mafia origins that forced him to live in a wheelchair and forget about swimming and the dream ofparticipate in the Olympics,
Giancarlo is currently engaged in the Italian version of the musical “Everybody is talking about Jamie” ( Tutti parlano di Jamie) currently at Teatro Nazionale, Milano The plot
16-year-old Jaime is a boy who has a dream: to become a famous drag queen.
After meeting drag diva Loco Chanel, Jamie has an enlightenment, becomes Mimimì and decides to go to the school ball in women’s clothes, not only much to become a drag queen, but to be able to put on heels and go out, and show off as a world as the moment inspires him.
Obviously is a scandal in the family, while his mother partially supports Jamie’s decision, his father, who has abandoned him for many years, rejects the idea. But Jamie desn’t give up, upsetting not so much her own life, but rather the others,
His message is “out of the shadows… I am the light” with the enchanting song “Il muro che c’è”” which reflects the character of Giancarlo himself, who had a the difficult relationship with his father
Commare is simply fantastic, perfectly focusing acting, dancing and singing, despite being his first singing experience in the theater. With regard to dance, Giancarlo said he remembered many moments in his bedroom when he enjoyed dancing, followed by attending adance school, almost hidden from the others,
In a recent interview , Commare said he has a dream, to create a city of art open free of charge to those who want to feed on art and to emphasize empathy. communication, brotherhood, excellent solutions for a less violent future.. More “JamIe ” than that……
A round of applause to all the cast, from Barbara Cola in the role of the mother, to the dancers, to the musical arrangements, to the director Piero di Biasio to all Jamie lookalike fans, who follow the show every night!
Performing at Teatro Nazionale, Milano , till March 26th
On tour Politeama Rossetti (Trieste) Colosseo (Torino) Teatro Verdi (Firenze) Municipale Valli ( Reggio Emilia)
You can buy tickets here
CESARE ZUCCA Travel, food & lifestyle. Milanese by birth, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world.For WEEKEND PREMIUM he photographs and writes about cities, cultures, lifestyles. He likes to discover both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights. Cesare meets and interview top chefs from all over the world, ‘steals’ their recipes in a ” non touristy tourist ” style
You just don’t realize how lucky you were when your join the guided 3,30-hour food tour organized by VisitLLjubljana.com managed by the Tourism Office of Ljubljana until you experience it. T I With influences coming from all neighboring countries (Italy, Austria, Hungry and Croatia), tucked between sea, plains, forests and mountains, the small country of Slovenia is rich of diversity and, if this three-hour tour cannot cover everything, it sure serves as the best introduction one can hope to taste in this timeframe! Tours priced at 52€ everything included, To make a reservation For more infowww.visitLjubljana.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Food Tour, Ljubljana, prekmurska gibanica, Tourism Office of Ljubljana | Leave a replyEditGRAND HOTEL TOPLICE, JULIJANA RESTAURANT IN BLED, SLOVENIA Posted on Slovenia. Bled, about an hour North of the capital Ljubljana to the North-West of Slovenia. Rather than the town it is the beautiful lake that gives the name Bled, famous among the European elite as early as the 1930’s with the construction of a luxurious hotel providing natural hot spring source knowned for health benefits.I am talking of the Grand Hotel Toplice, a venue that boasts a rich history, a magical location, gorgeous alpine and lake views and sumptuously comfortable, elegantly styled rooms. Each of the rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Toplice has its own unique character and are traditionally styled with beautiful parquet floors, rich furniture and beautiful paintings with many of the rooms benefiting from breathtakingly beautiful lake views. The hotel has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory and is one of the best hotels in Slovenia as well as being a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection. It has hosted many eminent guests and is frequented by celebrities such as Vivian Leigh, Arthur Miller, Pablo Neruda, King Hussein of Jordan, Paul McCartney and…me, with my best friend-chef-writer Philip Sinsheimer, graciously hosted by Sava hotel and resort group that manage the venue. Starting from the impeccable reception. the hotel boasts luxurious accommodation, few restaurant, a bar and the enchantment of Lake Bled. All rooms and suites are individually decorated in an enchanting and traditional style, lavishly equipped with an excellent range of facilities, a relaxing thermal swimming pool and benefit from different saunas, wellness services and a solarium among a private lido, where Philip (expert swimmer) dived in the limpid lake water while me (lazy man…) was indulging in a relaxing sunbathing. We dedicated the morning ( when the light is best) to row to the island where the minuscule baroque chapel.I was anxious to hear the bells rings, because I knew about the legend wich narrates that around the year 1500, the leaseholder of Lake Bled at the time, Hartman Kreigh, disappeared. People said he was killed. Sad for the events, the Lady of the Castle collected all of her precious golden jewellery to be melted down and casted into a bell for the chapel on the island of the Lake, so that the bell would toll in remembrance of beloved companion. They say the bell has a magic power, when it rings, you should make 3 wishes and wait for them to become real. We did 99 steps and finally we arrived at the church, where the view is really breathtaking and, yes, we waited for the bell… Not sure my wishes are becoming a reality, we ll see…. A true wish coming true was the splendid dinner we were invited for dinner at Julijana Restaurant where Chef Bertoncelj prepared a great dinner. I leave Philip the privilege of writing about it, since he is a chef and a food blogger. GRANDE CUISINE BY THE LAKE This historic landmark now called the Grand Hotel Toplice, operated by the Sava hotel and resort group, has managed to preserve the relics of the past with grand salons adorned with memorabilia pictures and bring all the comfort of modernity at the same time.This delicate balance between past was brilliantly reflected in the cuisine of the executive chef Simon Bertoncelj and the whole crew under him. Having dinner at the gastronomic JulijanaRestaurant, especially if the weather allows to eat al fresco facing the lake is a moment of bliss: the quality of service, attention to detail and classic decor evoke a certain respect of classical elegance. This doesn’t constrain the cuisine to old classics, and the chef’s creativity and modern techniques seem to find their place very naturally in this elegant environment. The mise en bouche consisting of a delicately baked oyster and a buttery giant shrimp had all the signs of what you can expect in a palace restaurant: prime quality ingredients simply treated. This seafood opening was in synch with the view of the water even though it wasn’t the sea. As I were to learn later by the chef, unfortunately, as beautiful as it is, the lake doesn’t often yield the quantity of fish needed to take place on the menu. The mushroom cappuccino with porcini had the depth of flavor one can only get in top notch restaurants, served piping hot but adorned with the freshness of a few micro greens scattered on top rather than the old habit of a dollop of cream and a few chives. Fresh too was the vitello tonnato inspired salad, bright and lively. Here, as in all the great restaurants experienced in Slovenia, the wine list paid homage to the country’s fine wines, such as the 2017Verus Chardonnay from Stajerska, the western part of the Podravje region in the North of the country. At last a chardonnay that can showcase both concentration of flavors and freshness in the palate with a mere 13° alcohol content.The shining fish course was a thick and moist turbot filet, perfectly cooked and adorned by a beautiful composition of vegetables and foamy grapefruit sauce. Here again: classic base and modern composition. Though generous, nothing was heavy, and the beautiful matured saddle of veal served pink with a herb crust was still welcome. To finish, the iconic Bled Cream Cake, which recipe goes back to 1953 and is secretly kept by the Sava hotels group. The result was up to the legend. Even though I really do not have much of a sweet tooth, and I have had my share of mille-feuilles in France, this raised version of the classic with just two layers of perfectly crisp puffed pastry holding a firm custard covered by a layer of lighter whipped cream is to die for… Chef Simon Bertoncelj, who has worked under the commands of Gordon Ramsey, seems rather poised and discreet, but if you really want to find out, he opens his kitchen to a guest table of 2 to 6 people for a 7-course menu cooked and served, right before their eyes…and ears! For more info Julijana Restaurant Grand Hotel Toplice Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenia +386 4 579 10 00 Contact Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenija Reception +386 4 579 10 00 ghtoplice@hotelibled.com Reservations +386 4 579 16 00 info@hotelibled.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Bed, chef Simon Bertoncelj, Grand Hotel Toplice, Juljiana Restaurant, Slovenia | Leave a replyEditHotel Hellsten, Stockholm. Memories of an exotic journey Posted on Hotel Hellsten is located in the heart of Stockholm and is the ideal starting point for all those who are visiting the City, since the attractions and sites of interest are reachable by public transport within easy reach including the subway that is just round the corner. The next street is the busy Sveavägen, Stockholm”s only real boulevard. The hotel is just around the corner from the underground (metro) stop Rådmansgatan. The locality is one of the most exciting in Stockholm, with a multitude of different restaurants within a few minutes walking distance. It is also a short walk from Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic and beautiful old town. I loved the area, and the next busy street Sveavägen, so alive and full of restaurants, shops and…barbers & haidressers,don’t ask me why, but very useful… The rooms are divided into various types depending on the services they offer, mostly in different styles, some have canopy bed, some are equipped with the classic Swedish fireplace called kakelugnar, light rays, wooden panels, even a private sauna, The walls are painted with warm colors that span from orange to red, to blue, to purple. All rooms have private new bathrooms, TV, telephone, free wired internet access and a hairdryer. They are non-smoking as well as the entire structure. My room had a cosy little terrace. Here and there I found exotic touches, my guide explained that Mr.Hellsten, owner of Hellsten, Rex and the newest Hellsten Glashus, is an enthusiastic traveller who likes to collect items from his trips. I loved the african masks ! Every Thursday Hellsten Earth Bar transforms into one of Stockholm’s premier jazz venues. Exciting live acts on stage at 8pm and on the last Thursday of each month you are welcome to jam with the band, just bring your instruments or vocals, and the entrance is free.. Comfy beds and an excellent breakfast buffet that included pancakes, cold cuts, cheeses, eggs, lots of fruits and the traditional Swedish meatballs and served in a sunny and spacious veranda. Add Hotel Hellsten on your next trip to Stockholm! For more info http://hellsten.se/en/Hotel_Hellsten Posted in travel | Tagged Hotel Hellsten, Stockholm | Leave a replyEditIndustrial or design? A posh stay in Hamburg Posted on In my last trip to Hamburg I got the chance to visit and stay in Hotel Gastwerk and The George, two great properties owned by Fortune Hotels Group. They have different style and decor, both friendly, welcoming and worth to spend one (or few) nights there.Let’s start with the industrial red bricks Gastwerk. The name says it all, It was a squared and rigorous red bricks gas factory. Roughly 120 years ago, the old gas plant provided light to the streets and houses in West Hamburg. In the impressive and carefully restored industrial building, built with brick and steel, modern design and historical architecture form a fascinating harmonic setting. Gastwerk is first Hamburg’s design hotel. The building welcomed me with a large hall with a wide, meticulously well lighted reception and two unforgettable metal elevators, one red and one yellow lighted. The industrial adventure was already starting… 141 rooms, lofts and suites, some with modern walls with a contemporary feeling, some with bricks walls (I love them), like the loft-like one where I was staying, giving the perfect atmosphere of and warehouse. In addition to that Gastwerk boasts a configurable conference area, the Mangold restaurant (I didn’t dine there, so no idea of the food) the L.BAR, the beautiful SPA, free parking spaces in front of the hotel and underground. Here and there you’ll discover classy touches of fresh flowers, old black and white pictures, original gas machines, and a splendid old water boiler. The second Fortune Hotel is The George, located in the hearth of the vibrant Saint George area. This venue is a triumphant tribute to the apotheosis of a ‘boutique hotel’ concept, where design meets furniture, lighting and that smell of trendyness… This reinterpretation of English style in Hamburg results in rooms swathed in warm colors ranging from cocoa to Champagne, lamps with delightful pleated shades and stylish wallpaper in a variety of designs. Super comfy mattresses, a nice view of the Lake Alster, not to mention that sweet & cute ‘Welcome Cesare’… The George Hotel is a four-pearl property flush with a Great-Britain-in-the-’60s design, with 125 stylish rooms that all have flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free weight, a party-vibe bar, the supercool rooftop Campari Lounge in the terrace with a spectacular view of the Alster, a defined breakfast buffet that included a fine selection of cold cuts, imported cheeses, fruits and vegetables, and… Yes! there is Da Caio, italian restaurant (where I could not resist peeping at the menu, which I found correct in dishes choices and…right spelling, which is always a good sign for an Italian eating in an Italian restaurant abroad… Here info Hotel Gastwerk The George, Fortune Hotels Group. Posted in travel | Tagged Da Caio, Fortune Hotels Group, Gastwerk Hotel, Hamburg, The George Hotel | Leave a replyEditTwo memorable days in Pula Posted on Great history, mild climate, smooth sea, unspoiled nature, dream beaches, friendly locals, smiling people, amazing food and…best teeth on hearth! Welcome to Croatia!I spent only two days in Pula, but, believe me , I ‘ll go back!. Pula is the largest town on the Istrian peninsula and offers a diversity of attractions to lovers of culture. The rich itinerary of its three thousand year old history, where every step you take through the Old Town is a landmark, begins and ends with the Roman amphitheatre. The city has a long tradition of winemaking, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism. Pula girls! The legacy of Alida Valli keeps the tradition. Beauty, charme, and those beautiful legs, so famous all over the world, make the local girls into dreamgirls ! Writer James Joyce choose Pula as his residency for several years. After a full day of historical sightseeing you will find many coffee shops on the street Forum including Café Uliks is a must for any fans of James Joyce, the Irish author who worked in Pula as a teacher in the early 20th century.Wines and foodWines top quality wines including Malvasia (one of my favorites) the most famous Istrian wines produced from indigenous white grapes. and Teran, a rich red wine, intensely purple colored, able to compet with the Italian ones but less expensive. A big time specialty is the zgvacet ragout. It is a sauce of diced chunks of chicken meat. In Pula, just as in most towns of Istria, be sure to taste seafood specialties, of which dishes rospi (monkfish), sea bass or delicious buzara Kvarner scampi only a small number of delicacies on offer. In Pula you should try and shells, thanks to the clear waters are a special flavor mussels, scallops or kanaštrele excellent fish stew, and definitely should try the black risotto with cuttlefish. Lovers of oily fish to taste anchovies to savor. This dish is eaten cold and fried sardines topped with sauce, oil, onion, vinegar and spices.In Pula you should try and maneštras traditional thick soup whose main ingredients are potatoes and beans with added mixture of bacon and garlic. Truffles! Many Pula’s restaurants carry the highlight of gastronomy: the white truffles. Try them with fusi or gnocchi with truffles or shaved over meat or cheese. But the real combo, the Romeo and Juliet of the choiche should be truffles and eggs!Bars, shops, market and flea markets Have fun, look around, bargain! Where to stay I stayed atAmfiteatar Hotel, located in the heart of the Pula city, hotel Amphitheater is at a 2 minutes walking distance to the Arena and 5 minutes walking distance to the city cathedral, with the harbor also in the close vicinity. Beach and the airport are only 10 minutes away by car. Very close to the arena and within a short walking distance to all the other attractions in the old town. I had dinner in the outdoor restaurant, Owner Chef and culinary star Deniz Zembo prepared delicious local dishes with a twist. I loved the grilled octopuss and delicious cake. I would like to thank the lovely ladies Viviana Vukelic and Adriana Bajic from Ente Nazionale Croato per il Turismo in Milan and the super cool Goran from the Tourism Office in Pula, Chef Deniz Zembo and my amazing guide Rossana. They truly contributed to make my Pula’s visit memorable,fun and wonderful. For more info ENTE NAZIONALE CROATO PER IL TURISMO https://croatia.hr/en-GB TOURISM OFFICE PULA http://www.pulainfo.hr/Hacienda Chichen: discover the most revered Mayan site the smart way!Chichen Itza, located inland of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 200 km East of Cancun, is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Mexico with over 2.6 million tourists in 2017. Do the math… The front desk offered to arrange the purchase of my ticket to visit the site the next morning, without any surcharge, avoiding the hassle to wait in line. They also offered the possibility to have a legitimate private guide for the visit, but as usual, I declined in order to feel totally free and visit at my own pace. The afternoon was mine to relax and enjoy what the Hacienda had to offer. The 28 rooms set in a total of 12 cottages spread out on the lush grounds were originally built to host archeologists who helped excavate the site. Now they are opened to all offering soothing air conditioning, large bed, beautiful sheets, large bathrooms, fresh flowers and hammocks on the front porch for those eager to adopt the Mayan way to take a nap at the sound of singing birds Another way to relax in a horizontal way is to indulge in one of the treatments at the Yaxkin spa. And that’s exactly what I did, with the 45-minute Pakal treatment, a Maya healing ritual focusing on the head and the upper body. The soul is also soothed by an initial prayer in Mayan language by my charming therapist. I loved the fact that the room was very large, not one of those cubicles where on feels locked up. The outside garden was present in the room with the use of various herbs and plants, including a refreshing aloe vera jelly applied on the face.Totally relaxed, I finished the afternoon by lingering by the superb swimming pool, large and square as I like them to do laps at length. .Recycled and chemical-free water added a guilt free sensation to the overall pleasure. Time went by and before I knew it was time to meet the general manager for a grand tour of the property, including the restored church where weddings can be organized, surrounded by the beautifully maintained vegetation). No wedding the evening of my stay, but I still felt like a very special person, enjoying an evening drink on the beautiful front patio at the sound of a traditional trio singing deep from the heart local ballads. For dinner, I ventured across the street to the humbler Villas Areological hotel (http://www.villasarqueologicas.com.mx/chichen-itza.html) that I wanted to check out for its restaurant serving a variety of traditional dishes from Yucatan. The best, by far, was the cream of Chaya soup and I appreciated the selection of Mexican wines. The night was young, but the day had been long, so I was eager to return to my beautiful room for a good night sleep. At 8:20 Am, I recuperated my ticket to visit the site and was guided to the private entrance specific to the Hacienda. I was alone when I crossed the gate and after a ten-minute walk, I was facing the beautiful Mayan pyramid with the company of a couple of iguanas, but not another human soul. The morning air was cool, and the silence only broken by singing birds. All the merchants on the way were focused on unpacking their things, leaving me unburdened. Besides the famous pyramid, I loved walking through the gigantic ball game field practically alone As well as discovering the sacred cenote (sinkhole) and the perfectly aligned columns without the eye sore of groups of tourists ruining the geometry of the monuments. After three hours of walking at my own pace, I went back to the Hacienda, walking against the growing flow of visitors and the solicitations of the souvenir vendors, they were in full swing mode, trying to sell their T-shirts and miniature statues probably made in China! The heat had risen and a last dip in the pool after a refreshing outdoor shower felt like pure bliss. At noon I was packed and ready to leave this magical place. A short taxi ride took me to the small town of Piste where I tasted a delicious and original pozole de coco, lightly sweetened and perfectly chilled (pic 20), then hopped on a collective to reach Valladolid after 24 hours of total serenity, visiting the most famous Mayan site in the best way possible… the nontouristytourist way! Text and photos by Philip Sinsheimer HACIENDA CHICHEN RESORT AND YAXKIN SPAhttp://www.haciendachichen.comTel: +52 999 920 8407 Posted in travel | Tagged Chichen Itza, Mexico | Leave a replyEditA ‘HYGGE’SUMMER IN COPENHAGEN Posted on In summer Copenhagen is an ideal destination: favorable weather, long and sunny days, smiling, polite and serene people. It seems that everyone here discovers the secret of happiness: hygge, a Danish word that invites you to enjoy the simple pleasures of life and live alone or with friends, at home or outside, special and happy moments. Find yourself singing on the beach around a bonfire, have a nice picnic at the park, attend an outdoor concert, participate in a street festival or take a bike ride … these and more are the little pleasures of life that feed the hygge spirit in the life of the Danes. To find out right away just do this test . The result is a real personalized treatment based on hygge, released with all the tips on how to get it on a trip to Denmark. Useful and precious, a true friend! I’m talking about the Copenhagen Card, a pass that allows you to visit as many as 86 museums and attractions, use all public transportation for free and benefit from discounts on tours, bars and restaurants. I also used it for a tour of the canals and the port. 1 hour, audiogude in all languages, a show of ancient and modern architecture, a sea of photos. passing the numerous bridges of the city. But pay attention to be seated: the bridges are very low and the risk to bump your head on it, it s quite possible. Tivoli The oldest playground in the world. You will skip over breathtaking roller coasters,you will be projected into space, you will remain suspended in the air more than a thousand other rides in the charming gardens where the oriental facade of beautiful Hotel Nimb stands out. After the aerial acrobatics, I finally relaxed in the Brasserie, famous Nimb restaurant, French cuisine, refined menu, excellent wine list, good service and relaxing atmosphere (apart from the crowded side room that celebrated a noisy birthday…) I tasted the Chef’s specialties, a delicate mollusk bisque served with scampi and carrots, a crunchy turbot à la meunière, sprinkled with lemon drops, ending with a puff pastry stuffed with strawberries and cream, all paired to my favorite Sancerre Domaine de La Garenne, deliciously fruity, In short, a dinner worthy of the unique atmosphere of the location. Copenhagen history boasts of royalties and magnificent castles,Here my favorites Amalienborg Palace, a must for anyone with a taste for royal history and the life of Denmark’s royal family who still resides inside the palace. Experience royal history at the museum and sense the present of one of the world’s oldest monarchies from the beautiful palace square where you can watch the changing of its famous guards called Den Kongelige Livgarde. Every day you can experience the changing of the guards, as they march from their barracks in 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and end up at Amalienborg, where the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon. Christiansborg Palace famous for its hall covered with 17 giant tapestries, which tell 1000 years of Danish history, It is a gift from The Danish business community in occasion of Her Majesty Queen Margrethe 50th birthday,. Bjørn Nørgaard painted the full-size sketches upon which the tapestries were woven. These impressive royal rooms host the official receptions in the presence of the Queen, between a sparkle of uniforms and great evening gowns. Better to avoid arriving by car or taxi, the protocol prefers that the guests present themselves in a carriage… As a food lover, I could not resist the temptation to descend into the legendary Royal Kitchens to discover the background of an official banquet, browse the Queen’s recipes and admire one of the largest collections of copper crockery in Europe. To be or not to be… I recommend a small excursion outside the city. Helsingør 30 minutes by train. The famous Castle of Kronborg, better known as Hamlet’s house, reigns there. In fact, here Shakespeare set his drama. Gossips say that the writer had never been there, but would have been an actor in his company to tell him about this mighty fortress, from whose park, littered with cannons, you can glimpse Sweden. Suddenly the walls resound with the voices of the characters of Hamlet, which appear, like ghosts, perfectly interpreted by talented actors who bring to life the tragic events of the drama, You could spend a whole day in Kronborg, and live many experiences, guided tours through the casemates and the halls, explore the passages and towers, see a play and relax admiring the sea – but if you prefer, you can get an idea Kronborg concrete even in just one hour. Kronborg is open all year round (except 1st January, 24th, 25th and 31st December) from 11am to 4pm. In the summer (June, July and August) the schedule is extended: from 10.30am to 5.30pm. After all that drama I needed a…great meal and I went to the renowned restaurant Brasserie 1861, where I met the Chef. His name is Casper StuhrSobczyk I can describe him as a gentle viking with the sweetest smile and… smoked sardines tattooed in his arm. They called him ‘the king of herbs ‘for his passion for vegetables and fresh products from the field. His passions are: fish, molluscs, entrails as lamb’s brain, (not so popular in the quite skeptic Northern Europe), He started with French cuisine, passed to the molecular and ended up with mixing them two styles. ‘I like to play with the ingredients, says Casper, like for example, pairing strawberries to balsamic vinegar. I worked in Danmark a lot, including the Copenhagen National Library. I got good reviews and I started my new adventure here at Marienlyst Hotel, In my my fridge at home, there is always place for eggs, probably because my wife loves them, lot of vegetables and of course several max sizei Pepsi. I Love Pepsi… ‘His friendly Verona born partner Fabio Ciccarelli started serving a surprising appetizer: a revolutionary version of the traditional blini, made with caviar white sturgeon, to be mixed to crème fraiche on herbal waffle. The ingredients just melt perfectly together. Then a salted unusually cooked burned salmon, followed by a mackerel with foie gras, green peas. As a main dish , I tasted halibut with asparagus that burned for few minutes to maintain the crunchiness. Every dish was so intense, so fresh and so herbal. No wonder why Chef Sobczyk is the ‘king of herbs… ’In the summer, Denmark is a foodies paradise with its festivals and gastronomic events Do not miss the Copenhagen Cooking & Food Festival from August 24th to September 2nd, during which Copenhagen becomes a huge Nordic restaurant and definitely stop at the new street food Reffen, an urban playground recently opened, that mixes crafts and culture. Reffen is a place where the people of Copenhagen are invited to take part in the development. 54 start-ups in the form of food stalls, bars and creative workshops many confirming the dogmas “Reduce and Reuse”. Mermaid yes or no? The most celebrated mermaid statue of The Little Mermaid from Hans Christian Andersen’s children’s story, sitting on a stone at Langelinie in the harbor of Copenhagen, Denmark. Honestly I saw her from the boat and I have to say that the invading ‘selfie addicted crowd’ didn’t appeal to me… So I went at night, and here she was, alone, shining on the dark, mysterious and looking like wanting to splash in the water any minute, That, I call a magic encounter with Miss Mermaid…for more info #visitdenmarkstories @govistdenmark. Posted in travel | Tagged Copenhagen | Leave a replyEditHamburg, Germany, Why go there and where to stay, what to eat Posted on I started my Hamburg experience with an avalanche of photos and selfies on board of the Stadtrundfahrt double-decker bus, providing earphones in all languages. In a couple of hours you’ll know the city, get off when you want, visit and get the next one. An indispensable tour, also in a mini-cruise version with Harbor CruiseYou will enjoy the aquatic view of the city, of the immense port and of the colossal cargo ships with gigantic containers. Hamburg means bricks, red bricks, so my next stop was Speicherstadt. Almost a kilometer of old warehouses with typical red bricks, used as storage for incoming goods: oriental carpets, tea, raw coffee, cocoa, tobacco, spices. Among the attractions: a kaffeerösterei, an old coffee roaster, where you can also enjoy decadent cakes with strawberries and cream. Chocoversum, a true chocolate triumph, Manufactum a trendy shop and the Spice Museum where you will find and taste everything: European spices, Asian and Indian flavors, exotic perfumes, 50 varieties of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, mustard seeds and the most expensive ones: orchid vanilla and saffron. Miniatur Wunderland Models of trains and landscapes in miniature? I was doubtful …well, I was amazed. Two huge floors where landscapes and cities of all the world have been meticulously reconstructed with airports, motorways, railways in great turmoil and crowded by a thousand minuscule people, including a team while washing Pope Francis car… Travel and read. 130 bookshops stocked with second hand books! Passengers are allowed not only to read them during their journey ,but also to take them home. Elbphilharmonie Extraordinary glass structure, with windows that look like eyes. With its perfect acoustic, hosts concerts and shows. You get there with a spectacular 82 meter escalator that runs through The Plaza, from which you can enjoy a great view. Perfect location for a drink or a snack at the Beer & Dine and a little shopping in the well-stocked book, music and souvenir store. Tickets can be booked 18 weeks in advance and children up to three years do not pay. Hamburg and its museums. I chose two. Kunsthalle, 700 years of art, from the great masters of the Renaissance until 1800 with Manet, Caspar David Friedrich, up to the German expressionism (which I adore) and the contemporary avant-garde . MKG Great museum with unusual exhibits: famous deco posters, precious vintage pianos, sketches and 30s dresses, a space dedicated to design furniture, photo galleries avant – garde and much more. It is true that the hamburger was born in Hamburg? The most famous meatball in the world is ‘made in the USA’ or ‘made in Hamburg’? The name would leave no doubt, but the Americans boast its paternity. The Germans claim that it was cooked in the houses of Hamburg and then it was exported to the USA, while for the Americans it would be born in the port of Hamburg, a municipality located in the state of New York and the inventors would have been the Menches brothers who in 1885 would propose the first sandwich stuffed with meat during the country festival Erie County Fair. Legends aside, here you will find space burgers. The best from Burger Lounge, Jim Block Jungfernstieg, Dulf’s Burger, Otto’s Burger Grindelhof and Schanze . WHERE TO STAY I tried two hotels, both experiences were great!
Novotel Hamburg City Alster Hotel 4-star hotel in the modern rooms and suites with a desk and free WIFI Central location and U-Bahn station on our doorstep make the Novotel Hamburg City Alster hotel the ideal base in Hamburg. 5-minutes away from Alster-Schwimmhalle and within 20 minutes of English Theatre Of Hamburg. Highlights at this hotel include in-room free WiFi, free high-speed Internet, and LCD TVs. All 210 soundproofed rooms feature sofa beds, satellite TV, and separate bathtubs and showers. You’ll find nice touches like soaking tubs and free toiletries to enhance your stay. Coffee/tea makers, free newspapers, and safes are also available. Enjoy the fitness centre, Turkish bath/hammam, and sauna. Business amenities include a meeting room and a business centre. Added amenities include free WiFi in public areas and laundry facilities. Each morning excellent buffet breakfast is served between 6:30 AM s. Here atmosphere is easy and relaxed , The motto says COME AS YOU ARE! There is also free access to a spectacular spa in stones and wood. In the morning a rich buffet breakfast is set up, there you can find everything, including rotegruetze, my beloved raspberry, blueberry and cherry sauce served on lean yogurt. Yummy! What does a real Hamburger drink? Beer, of course! It has been produced in Hamburg for over a millennium and has become an icon of German culture. Here some popular ones. Ratsherrn, one of the city’s most famous artisan breweries From pilsner to light beers. Galopper des Jahres, popular and animated. The members of the staff are true fan of craft beer, so be sure to ask for their recommendations: they know what to suggest for every taste and palate. Blockbräu, a terrace with a wonderful view. My favorite? Altes Mädchen An incredible variety of excellent local and around 70 international beers, also combined with tasty German specialties.Remember, the real Hamburger does not drink Coca Cola! The preferred alternative is fritz-kola, rich in caffeine and lemon. It was born in 2002, invented almost for fun by young friends Lorenz and Mirco and produced with a really amateur process. Imagine: the labels were photocopies and they were glued by hand on the bottle … Today it is the national soft drink. Red lights … night and day!The St. Pauli district was once a bad area full of noisy pubs, frequented by criminals, sailors and prostitutes. Today the taverns have become artistic skyscrapers, like the Dancing Towers, which seem to really dance, while the smoky haunts of the past have become fashionable places. But the raunchy survived: sex shops, theaters, striptease, burlesque and the inevitable bouncers who invite you to enter. In addition to the ‘sensory’ attractions, the neighborhood is full of super-trendy shops, new boutiques, hip clubs and bars Keep walking around the St.Pauli district, head towards Markstrasse and the surroundings o
f KarolinenvIertel. Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By day the sunlight enhances its white. At night, it looks like an immense nativity set up under the starry sky. Its quarter I Sassi, ancient dwellings dug into the tufo, where the roofs serve as a base for the houses that have developed on higher levels. These were dug entirely into the rock and represent one of the most striking examples of exploitation of natural resources to obtain suitable conditions for the life of a large community. In the caves often lived more families and despite the lack of space, almost all daily activities took place in the cavities of cave-houses: from handicrafts to weaving, from food storage to animal care (dogs, chicken, pigs, horses and donkeys were living with the family as primitive source of heating). The temperature was constant and guaranteed by the characteristics of the sea tufo , so the inhabitants did not suffer too much from the cold in winter and found a shelter from summer heat. This way of life for years has been seen as a sign of backwardness and incivility. The inhabitants of the Sassi were often considered as primitives living like animals. In 1952 Sassi was considered “the Italian national shame”and abandoned in the late ’50s, Sassi was able to be redeemed until they became Unesco World Heritage in and will be the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Its amazing scenario has been used s a set for Mel Gibson “The Passion” Pier Paolo Pasolini “The Gospel According to Matthew “King David”, Christ The Lord: Out of Egypt “, and the remake of “Ben-Hur “. I took the Gran Tourof Sassi, an intense 3 hours guided tour and I learn so much about the history of this amazing city. The tour begins in front of the Cathedral, in the upper part of the City, and then goes deeper into the tangle of narrow alleys, caves, cellars, churches, small gardens, tiny squares and districts. I was able to discover in detail these unusual dwellings partly carved out of the limestone. It s a long walk, so wear comfy shoes. Matera is also well now for its cooking tradition, a classic example of Italian peasant cuisine, using free ingredients combined with a fair amount of labor and know-how to turn an odd edible food into a delectable dish. Here my choices: ll Terrazzino View, ambience, real food, rich menu, moderate prices and …did I mentioned the view? Welcome to Il Terrazzino, one of the oldest deck restaurant in Sassi Eustachio Persia welcomed me with a dish of local cold cuts, including my fav lampascioni, bulbs of a common wildflower in southern Italy, then I ordered lamb, and…surprise! iIt came wrapped in yellow strawpaper. ‘This place used to be a cantina, told me Eustachio, just wine, no food.So people used to cook it at home and take it here, all wrapped up in paper tto keep it warm,then tear the bag and eat it paired with a nice glass of wine.Then came the crapiata a soup of different legumes, cereals and potatoes typical of the Basilicata cuisine of rural tradition, prepared in great quantity every year on the first day of August in the district La Martella, close to the cultivated fields and served to the inhabitants. Eustachio took me downstairs, to the 17 century cellar, which incorporates the typical architecture of the Sassi and was refurbished to retrace moments of daily life of the peasant life, Baccus Simple yet elegant restaurant Located in the Sassi area, Baccus is well know for its Chef Carlo Pozzuoli who likes to reinterpretate typical local dishes and flavors of the past in a modern way. Starting with super crunchy chips of red peppers, followed by fagots of ziti with cream of yellow and red peppers, bundled in a slice of sweet scamorza cheese topped by goat ricotta curlS. A soupy Dish with tagliolini pasta with black and white chickpeas, considered ideal fro pregnant women, since it contains a lot of iron. The menu dedicates an attentive search of local herbs, like the cicoriella, the sivone and other fresh leaves variously used in cooking: in salads, minestrone, simply boiled with oil and lemon, or as a filling of ravioli and pansotti or excellent omelettes. Carlo and his wife Mariella were wonderful hosts. Not only keeping me company at the table but also surprising me with a taste of a sweet heart shaped Sporcamuso, (begrime the face) a dessert so full of cream that I inevitably ended up with hot pastry cream all over my face. Da Mario ‘We represent the tradition. My family managed this restaurant since the 50’s’ told me Anna, owner of the popular Ristorante Pizzeria Da Mario ‘Since then we are always been loved by the people from Matera and from all over the world. Many celebrities have eaten here: Richard Gere, Mel Gibson just to mention few’ I went there for lunch and followed Anna’s suggestions, starting with a tasty orecchiette alle rape with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs, then I tried home made strascinati pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms and garnished with the typical crunchy peperone crusco, fried red pepper. Da Mario is know for its pizza. I tried a baby Margherita, perfectly cooked. ‘I love my town, peaceful and quiet, I run the restaurant a cosy BnB called Sassi Belvedere although sometimes I need some noise… some that’s why I have a place in Milan, where I go , like an escape little vacation, but then I am happy to be back in my Lucania ( the ancient name of Basilicata) Sorry I still call it Lucania.. perhaps it’s because I like the old things… I don’t blame her.. Where I stayed. Residence San Gennaro, located in the inner courtyard of the old “neighborhood”, once the fulcrum of the days of the inhabitants Super friendly host Francesco delighted me with anecdotes about the city, gave me tips took me to the prehistoric hypogeous cave below the residence, embellished with a precious Nativity and prepared a great breakfast that included fresh local products. I stayed in Guerricchio suite, that has a kitchenette, a delightful double bedroom, a private bathroom and a cute little balcony to enjoy the view on the enchanting Sassi of Matera. It is At the entrance an artistic work of great value welcomed me. “Girasoli di Guerricchio”, a Lucanian artist to whom the suite is dedicated. I also lovedCasa Noha An amazing gateway” to the city, charting its history thanks to an innovative communication project, where the walls, the ceilings and the floors will take to an extraordinary journey through the history of Matera from its origins to the present day. MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture Matera) This unique museum provides the perfect environment for the symbiosis of sculpture and the characteristic carved sites in the Sassi; the exhibition galleries, in fact, consist not only of the rooms of the Palazzo, but also the vast hypogea, where the works of art are revitalized by the strength and beauty of the surrounding rock hewn spaces Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Baccus, Basilicata, Da Mario, Il Terrazino, Matera, Sassi | Leave a replyEdit
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see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articleBOUTIQUE HOTEL CASA ANGELINA, AMALFI COAST by Cesare Zuccahttp://www.torrettas.comThree ‘Nobel’ days in Oslo Stay at the Grand Hotel 3 HOTELS ROOF TOPS you don’t want to miss by Cesare Zucca Discovering beautiful Poland POZNAN by Cesare Zucca INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Phnom Penh BEST ‘KIDS FRIENDLY’ MUSEUMS IN NEW YORK Children’s Museum of The Arts (103 Charlton St) invita all’arte, coinvolgendo i bambini in disinvolte classi di pittura, ceramica, scultura e musica. New York City Fire Museum (278 Spring St) organizza Safety Tour, una vera lezione sul fuoco con tanto di simulazione di incendio, dove un vigile newyorkese insegnerà le tecniche di salvataggio. Children’s Museum of Manhattan (212 West 83 St) è un immenso asilo stile Disneyland con cinque piani di attrazioni, giochi educativi, passatempi intelligenti e divertimento, daLet’s Dance, spazio interattivo dedicato ai bambini che amano ballare, a Art, Artists & You dove i piccoli si improvvisavo artisti . Natural History Museum (CPW/79 St) ospita The Butterfly Conservatory, una foresta con più di 500 farfalle da tutto il mondo. You just don’t realize how lucky you were when your join the guided 3,30-hour food tour organized by VisitLLjubljana.com managed by the Tourism Office of Ljubljana until you experience it. They offer numerous guided city tours including the Historical City Centre and Ljubljana Castlerevolving around history, art and landmarks, whether on foot, bicycle or on a boat cruising the river. There is no other way to sample the incredible diversity of Slovenian food in so little time and in such a fun and well-paced way. Slovenia is a small country yes, but it counts no less than 24 gastronomic regions. Ljubljana, reminding me of Paris in a way, is pretty much in the center of the country and, as a capital, has attracted many food vendors and restaurateurs to benefit from the largest concentration of population (and tourists) of the country. But, right off the bat, let me tell you that, at no point, do you feel shepherded to a pasture of touristic traps you would have found on your own. The choice is balanced between food shops and restaurants, clearly very carefully picked. Also, it isn’t a gorging party: at the end of the tour, you feel satiated, without ever feeling over full!. As all good cooking requests, things started with the sourcing of ingredients: the market! And Ljubljana is blessed, right in its center with a human sized, yet substantial farmer’s market, with one section dedicated to only certified organic vendors. I had noticed on my way to the tour some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms, as well as yellow broad beans that I had never encountered before. Lucky enough, I was able to find them again and was met with the most charming smile the seller could have shared. Then, we got to visit the permanent covered market, a beautiful building along the riverbank. That was like entering a world of its own. Gorgeous charcuterie, cheeses, breads (got a loaf of this dark and dense bread, yet moist and oh! so tasty). A separate section is dedicated to fish, perhaps for temperature and odor control. Whatever the reason might be, I was really im We met our lovely guide Simona in Ciril-Metodov, the cobblestoned main street. She took us at Klòbasarna, where we had the first tasting: a warm smoked sausage form the Carniola region just South of Austria, in other words at the Northern end of Slovenia. Made of the finest pieces of pork, this sausage neither greasy nor too dry, just hit the spot accompanied by a light red wine, a little horseradish and mustard which I loved. Simona took us in more that 7 venues, specialized in different specialties, from the syrups and the honeys of Dobrote-Dolenjske, to the traditional cake prekmurska gibanica homemade at GujzinaI won’t be going in the detail of all the things tasted, either in gastronomic shops or in restaurants… I want you to go and experience it for yourself. Besides beef tongue, fried chicken, honey (Slovenia is Europe’s largest producer per capita), my heart will go for this humble dish of mashed potatoes with sautéed onions and bits of bacon that we tasted at a very special restaurant, Druga Violina, where all the members of the staff suffer from some form of disability or another. It felt really good to contribute to this effort to support the community and, let’s be frank, it also tasted soooo good, just by itself. With influences coming from all neighboring countries (Italy, Austria, Hungry and Croatia), tucked between sea, plains, forests and mountains, the small country of Slovenia is rich of diversity and, if this three-hour tour cannot cover everything, it sure serves as the best introduction one can hope to taste in this timeframe! Tours priced at 52€ everything included, To make a reservation For more infowww.visitLjubljana.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Food Tour, Ljubljana, prekmurska gibanica, Tourism Office of Ljubljana | Leave a replyEditGRAND HOTEL TOPLICE, JULIJANA RESTAURANT IN BLED, SLOVENIA Posted on Slovenia. Bled, about an hour North of the capital Ljubljana to the North-West of Slovenia. Rather than the town it is the beautiful lake that gives the name Bled, famous among the European elite as early as the 1930’s with the construction of a luxurious hotel providing natural hot spring source knowned for health benefits.I am talking of the Grand Hotel Toplice, a venue that boasts a rich history, a magical location, gorgeous alpine and lake views and sumptuously comfortable, elegantly styled rooms. Each of the rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Toplice has its own unique character and are traditionally styled with beautiful parquet floors, rich furniture and beautiful paintings with many of the rooms benefiting from breathtakingly beautiful lake views. The hotel has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory and is one of the best hotels in Slovenia as well as being a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection. It has hosted many eminent guests and is frequented by celebrities such as Vivian Leigh, Arthur Miller, Pablo Neruda, King Hussein of Jordan, Paul McCartney and…me, with my best friend-chef-writer Philip Sinsheimer, graciously hosted by Sava hotel and resort group that manage the venue. Starting from the impeccable reception. the hotel boasts luxurious accommodation, few restaurant, a bar and the enchantment of Lake Bled. All rooms and suites are individually decorated in an enchanting and traditional style, lavishly equipped with an excellent range of facilities, a relaxing thermal swimming pool and benefit from different saunas, wellness services and a solarium among a private lido, where Philip (expert swimmer) dived in the limpid lake water while me (lazy man…) was indulging in a relaxing sunbathing. We dedicated the morning ( when the light is best) to row to the island where the minuscule baroque chapel.I was anxious to hear the bells rings, because I knew about the legend wich narrates that around the year 1500, the leaseholder of Lake Bled at the time, Hartman Kreigh, disappeared. People said he was killed. Sad for the events, the Lady of the Castle collected all of her precious golden jewellery to be melted down and casted into a bell for the chapel on the island of the Lake, so that the bell would toll in remembrance of beloved companion. They say the bell has a magic power, when it rings, you should make 3 wishes and wait for them to become real. We did 99 steps and finally we arrived at the church, where the view is really breathtaking and, yes, we waited for the bell… Not sure my wishes are becoming a reality, we ll see…. A true wish coming true was the splendid dinner we were invited for dinner at Julijana Restaurant where Chef Bertoncelj prepared a great dinner. I leave Philip the privilege of writing about it, since he is a chef and a food blogger. GRANDE CUISINE BY THE LAKE This historic landmark now called the Grand Hotel Toplice, operated by the Sava hotel and resort group, has managed to preserve the relics of the past with grand salons adorned with memorabilia pictures and bring all the comfort of modernity at the same time.This delicate balance between past was brilliantly reflected in the cuisine of the executive chef Simon Bertoncelj and the whole crew under him. Having dinner at the gastronomic JulijanaRestaurant, especially if the weather allows to eat al fresco facing the lake is a moment of bliss: the quality of service, attention to detail and classic decor evoke a certain respect of classical elegance. This doesn’t constrain the cuisine to old classics, and the chef’s creativity and modern techniques seem to find their place very naturally in this elegant environment. The mise en bouche consisting of a delicately baked oyster and a buttery giant shrimp had all the signs of what you can expect in a palace restaurant: prime quality ingredients simply treated. This seafood opening was in synch with the view of the water even though it wasn’t the sea. As I were to learn later by the chef, unfortunately, as beautiful as it is, the lake doesn’t often yield the quantity of fish needed to take place on the menu. The mushroom cappuccino with porcini had the depth of flavor one can only get in top notch restaurants, served piping hot but adorned with the freshness of a few micro greens scattered on top rather than the old habit of a dollop of cream and a few chives. Fresh too was the vitello tonnato inspired salad, bright and lively. Here, as in all the great restaurants experienced in Slovenia, the wine list paid homage to the country’s fine wines, such as the 2017Verus Chardonnay from Stajerska, the western part of the Podravje region in the North of the country. At last a chardonnay that can showcase both concentration of flavors and freshness in the palate with a mere 13° alcohol content.The shining fish course was a thick and moist turbot filet, perfectly cooked and adorned by a beautiful composition of vegetables and foamy grapefruit sauce. Here again: classic base and modern composition. Though generous, nothing was heavy, and the beautiful matured saddle of veal served pink with a herb crust was still welcome. To finish, the iconic Bled Cream Cake, which recipe goes back to 1953 and is secretly kept by the Sava hotels group. The result was up to the legend. Even though I really do not have much of a sweet tooth, and I have had my share of mille-feuilles in France, this raised version of the classic with just two layers of perfectly crisp puffed pastry holding a firm custard covered by a layer of lighter whipped cream is to die for… Chef Simon Bertoncelj, who has worked under the commands of Gordon Ramsey, seems rather poised and discreet, but if you really want to find out, he opens his kitchen to a guest table of 2 to 6 people for a 7-course menu cooked and served, right before their eyes…and ears! For more info Julijana Restaurant Grand Hotel Toplice Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenia +386 4 579 10 00 Contact Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenija Reception +386 4 579 10 00 ghtoplice@hotelibled.com Reservations +386 4 579 16 00 info@hotelibled.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Bed, chef Simon Bertoncelj, Grand Hotel Toplice, Juljiana Restaurant, Slovenia | Leave a replyEditHotel Hellsten, Stockholm. Memories of an exotic journey Posted on Hotel Hellsten is located in the heart of Stockholm and is the ideal starting point for all those who are visiting the City, since the attractions and sites of interest are reachable by public transport within easy reach including the subway that is just round the corner. The next street is the busy Sveavägen, Stockholm”s only real boulevard. The hotel is just around the corner from the underground (metro) stop Rådmansgatan. The locality is one of the most exciting in Stockholm, with a multitude of different restaurants within a few minutes walking distance. It is also a short walk from Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic and beautiful old town. I loved the area, and the next busy street Sveavägen, so alive and full of restaurants, shops and…barbers & haidressers,don’t ask me why, but very useful… The rooms are divided into various types depending on the services they offer, mostly in different styles, some have canopy bed, some are equipped with the classic Swedish fireplace called kakelugnar, light rays, wooden panels, even a private sauna, The walls are painted with warm colors that span from orange to red, to blue, to purple. All rooms have private new bathrooms, TV, telephone, free wired internet access and a hairdryer. They are non-smoking as well as the entire structure. My room had a cosy little terrace. Here and there I found exotic touches, my guide explained that Mr.Hellsten, owner of Hellsten, Rex and the newest Hellsten Glashus, is an enthusiastic traveller who likes to collect items from his trips. I loved the african masks ! You have a colonial-style bar where coffee and tea are served 24 hours for free. Great idea! Every Thursday Hellsten Earth Bar transforms into one of Stockholm’s premier jazz venues. Exciting live acts on stage at 8pm and on the last Thursday of each month you are welcome to jam with the band, just bring your instruments or vocals, and the entrance is free.. Comfy beds and an excellent breakfast buffet that included pancakes, cold cuts, cheeses, eggs, lots of fruits and the traditional Swedish meatballs and served in a sunny and spacious veranda. Add Hotel Hellsten on your next trip to Stockholm! For more info http://hellsten.se/en/Hotel_Hellsten Posted in travel | Tagged Hotel Hellsten, Stockholm | Leave a replyEditIndustrial or design? A posh stay in Hamburg Posted on In my last trip to Hamburg I got the chance to visit and stay in Hotel Gastwerk and The George, two great properties owned by Fortune Hotels Group. They have different style and decor, both friendly, welcoming and worth to spend one (or few) nights there.Let’s start with the industrial red bricks Gastwerk. The name says it all, It was a squared and rigorous red bricks gas factory. Roughly 120 years ago, the old gas plant provided light to the streets and houses in West Hamburg. In the impressive and carefully restored industrial building, built with brick and steel, modern design and historical architecture form a fascinating harmonic setting. Gastwerk is first Hamburg’s design hotel. The building welcomed me with a large hall with a wide, meticulously well lighted reception and two unforgettable metal elevators, one red and one yellow lighted. The industrial adventure was already starting… 141 rooms, lofts and suites, some with modern walls with a contemporary feeling, some with bricks walls (I love them), like the loft-like one where I was staying, giving the perfect atmosphere of and warehouse. In addition to that Gastwerk boasts a configurable conference area, the Mangold restaurant (I didn’t dine there, so no idea of the food) the L.BAR, the beautiful SPA, free parking spaces in front of the hotel and underground. Here and there you’ll discover classy touches of fresh flowers, old black and white pictures, original gas machines, and a splendid old water boiler. The second Fortune Hotel is The George, located in the hearth of the vibrant Saint George area. This venue is a triumphant tribute to the apotheosis of a ‘boutique hotel’ concept, where design meets furniture, lighting and that smell of trendyness… This reinterpretation of English style in Hamburg results in rooms swathed in warm colors ranging from cocoa to Champagne, lamps with delightful pleated shades and stylish wallpaper in a variety of designs. Super comfy mattresses, a nice view of the Lake Alster, not to mention that sweet & cute ‘Welcome Cesare’… The George Hotel is a four-pearl property flush with a Great-Britain-in-the-’60s design, with 125 stylish rooms that all have flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free weight, a party-vibe bar, the supercool rooftop Campari Lounge in the terrace with a spectacular view of the Alster, a defined breakfast buffet that included a fine selection of cold cuts, imported cheeses, fruits and vegetables, and… Yes! there is Da Caio, italian restaurant (where I could not resist peeping at the menu, which I found correct in dishes choices and…right spelling, which is always a good sign for an Italian eating in an Italian restaurant abroad… Here info Hotel Gastwerk The George, Fortune Hotels Group. Posted in travel | Tagged Da Caio, Fortune Hotels Group, Gastwerk Hotel, Hamburg, The George Hotel | Leave a replyEditTwo memorable days in Pula Posted on Great history, mild climate, smooth sea, unspoiled nature, dream beaches, friendly locals, smiling people, amazing food and…best teeth on hearth! Welcome to Croatia!I spent only two days in Pula, but, believe me , I ‘ll go back!. Pula is the largest town on the Istrian peninsula and offers a diversity of attractions to lovers of culture. The rich itinerary of its three thousand year old history, where every step you take through the Old Town is a landmark, begins and ends with the Roman amphitheatre. The city has a long tradition of winemaking, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism. The Arena. Pula’s amphitheater was built around the end of the first century before Christ. It was August with a very hot weather. That s why my lovely guide Rossana met me there early in the morning , immediately after they open the gate. I suggest you to do the same. Rossana told me a quite cute legend about a raw linen made tent (they called it velarium) that used to be opened up to protect from the sun and give some shade to the audience while watching the show, or function as a bug umbrella in case of rain. Actually the morning is he best time to come to the arena as well the sunset time. Often the Arena hosts operas, concerts and performances. The acoustic is amazing: Tenors Giorgio Pavarotti, Placido Domingo and Beniamino Gigli said the this place was one of the most suitable for their voice and for the public. In the Arena have been performing great music legends such as Tina Turner, Joe Cocker, Sting, Simply Red, Robert Plant, Status Quo, Massive Attack, just to mention few. Every summer, Pula host a superb Film Festival in the Arena, Celebrity town. Pula was also the residence of many Italian celebrities, from Italian singer Sergio Endrigo, to Italian actress Alida Valli who was celebrated as one of the most beautiful woman in the he world.Pula girls! The legacy of Alida Valli keeps the tradition. Beauty, charme, and those beautiful legs, so famous all over the world, make the local girls into dreamgirls ! Writer James Joyce choose Pula as his residency for several years. After a full day of historical sightseeing you will find many coffee shops on the street Forum including Café Uliks is a must for any fans of James Joyce, the Irish author who worked in Pula as a teacher in the early 20th century.Wines and foodWines top quality wines including Malvasia (one of my favorites) the most famous Istrian wines produced from indigenous white grapes. and Teran, a rich red wine, intensely purple colored, able to compet with the Italian ones but less expensive. A big time specialty is the zgvacet ragout. It is a sauce of diced chunks of chicken meat. In Pula, just as in most towns of Istria, be sure to taste seafood specialties, of which dishes rospi (monkfish), sea bass or delicious buzara Kvarner scampi only a small number of delicacies on offer. In Pula you should try and shells, thanks to the clear waters are a special flavor mussels, scallops or kanaštrele excellent fish stew, and definitely should try the black risotto with cuttlefish. Lovers of oily fish to taste anchovies to savor. This dish is eaten cold and fried sardines topped with sauce, oil, onion, vinegar and spices.In Pula you should try and maneštras traditional thick soup whose main ingredients are potatoes and beans with added mixture of bacon and garlic. Truffles! Many Pula’s restaurants carry the highlight of gastronomy: the white truffles. Try them with fusi or gnocchi with truffles or shaved over meat or cheese. But the real combo, the Romeo and Juliet of the choiche should be truffles and eggs!Bars, shops, market and flea marketsHave fun, look around, bargain! Smile!Dental tourism, is hot in Croatia, organized groups come here and put their teeth in place with low-budget, cheaper prices, excellent quality, good materials and expert dentist. How to contact them who contact them? Or you can see on the websites or call the local tourist agency that will give you advice on the best places or to be so lucky to have a friend who has already been here already. Do not! Croatia has its own currency: the kuna. Don’t change your money in the street, you may get useless Balcanian or Bulgarian money… Go into a bank and change there!Where to stay I stayed atAmfiteatar Hotel, located in the heart of the Pula city, hotel Amphitheater is at a 2 minutes walking distance to the Arena and 5 minutes walking distance to the city cathedral, with the harbor also in the close vicinity. Beach and the airport are only 10 minutes away by car. Very close to the arena and within a short walking distance to all the other attractions in the old town. I had dinner in the outdoor restaurant, Owner Chef and culinary star Deniz Zembo prepared delicious local dishes with a twist. I loved the grilled octopuss and delicious cake. I would like to thank the lovely ladies Viviana Vukelic and Adriana Bajic from Ente Nazionale Croato per il Turismo in Milan and the super cool Goran from the Tourism Office in Pula, Chef Deniz Zembo and my amazing guide Rossana. They truly contributed to make my Pula’s visit memorable,fun and wonderful. For more info ENTE NAZIONALE CROATO PER IL TURISMO https://croatia.hr/en-GB TOURISM OFFICE PULA http://www.pulainfo.hr/Hacienda Chichen: discover the most revered Mayan site the smart way!Chichen Itza, located inland of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 200 km East of Cancun, is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Mexico with over 2.6 million tourists in 2017. Do the math… .That’s on average over 7000 visitors a day. Even though the site is not limited to the iconic Kukulcàn pyramid (photo 1) and covers a very large area (over 300 hectares), that is a lot of human flesh roaming around! Especialy when one considers that the most popular way to visit the Unesco world heritage site is via tour operators organizing day trips from Cancun or Merida, creating a huge influx of fully loaded buses arriving around 11 AM or so every day. Arriving with the sun at its hottest among hordes of tourists had always been a deterring idea to me. I had sacrificed the visit of wholly site during my passed 3 visits of Yucatan, favoring the ruins of Tulum and Cuba, less crowded and still awesome examples of the might and splendor of the Mayan civilization. For this fourth visit this last spring, I was determined to visit the legendary Chichen Itza in the best way possible. Staying overnight at the Hacienda Chichen revealed to be the smartest answer possible. Smart because by staying overnight in this historic hotel located a few hundred feet from the archeological site enables to start exploring the grounds as early as 8 AM, before the arrival of the crowds. Smart, because the hotel combines genuine elegance and great service while respecting authenticity and ecological responsibility. Follow me, let me show you the way…When I arrived from Tulum around noon at the Chichen Itza bus terminal, I was left at the main entrance of the site in one of the largest parking lots I have ever seen: hundreds of buses still unloading their loads of tourists from every continent. The line to the ticket booth was long, the heat dreadful. Instead of joining the frenzy, I hopped in a cab and 10 minutes later, I was discovering the old-world charm of the Hacienda Chichen. The check in was a breeze and the welcoming cocktail made of pineapple and Chaya leaf juice refreshing as heaven (pic 3). I was later to learn that it had been freshly made from the organic garden of the property, providing a lot of the fruits, vegetables and herbs used by the kitchen The front desk offered to arrange the purchase of my ticket to visit the site the next morning, without any surcharge, avoiding the hassle to wait in line. They also offered the possibility to have a legitimate private guide for the visit, but as usual, I declined in order to feel totally free and visit at my own pace. The afternoon was mine to relax and enjoy what the Hacienda had to offer. The 28 rooms set in a total of 12 cottages spread out on the lush grounds were originally built to host archeologists who helped excavate the site. Now they are opened to all offering soothing air conditioning, large bed, beautiful sheets, large bathrooms, fresh flowers and hammocks on the front porch for those eager to adopt the Mayan way to take a nap at the sound of singing birds Another way to relax in a horizontal way is to indulge in one of the treatments at the Yaxkin spa. And that’s exactly what I did, with the 45-minute Pakal treatment, a Maya healing ritual focusing on the head and the upper body. The soul is also soothed by an initial prayer in Mayan language by my charming therapist. I loved the fact that the room was very large, not one of those cubicles where on feels locked up. The outside garden was present in the room with the use of various herbs and plants, including a refreshing aloe vera jelly applied on the face.Totally relaxed, I finished the afternoon by lingering by the superb swimming pool, large and square as I like them to do laps at length. .Recycled and chemical-free water added a guilt free sensation to the overall pleasure. Time went by and before I knew it was time to meet the general manager for a grand tour of the property, including the restored church where weddings can be organized, surrounded by the beautifully maintained vegetation). No wedding the evening of my stay, but I still felt like a very special person, enjoying an evening drink on the beautiful front patio at the sound of a traditional trio singing deep from the heart local ballads. For dinner, I ventured across the street to the humbler Villas Areological hotel (http://www.villasarqueologicas.com.mx/chichen-itza.html) that I wanted to check out for its restaurant serving a variety of traditional dishes from Yucatan. The best, by far, was the cream of Chaya soup and I appreciated the selection of Mexican wines. The night was young, but the day had been long, so I was eager to return to my beautiful room for a good night sleep. At 8:20 Am, I recuperated my ticket to visit the site and was guided to the private entrance specific to the Hacienda. I was alone when I crossed the gate and after a ten-minute walk, I was facing the beautiful Mayan pyramid with the company of a couple of iguanas, but not another human soul. The morning air was cool, and the silence only broken by singing birds. All the merchants on the way were focused on unpacking their things, leaving me unburdened. Besides the famous pyramid, I loved walking through the gigantic ball game field practically alone As well as discovering the sacred cenote (sinkhole) and the perfectly aligned columns without the eye sore of groups of tourists ruining the geometry of the monuments. After three hours of walking at my own pace, I went back to the Hacienda, walking against the growing flow of visitors and the solicitations of the souvenir vendors, they were in full swing mode, trying to sell their T-shirts and miniature statues probably made in China! The heat had risen and a last dip in the pool after a refreshing outdoor shower felt like pure bliss. At noon I was packed and ready to leave this magical place. A short taxi ride took me to the small town of Piste where I tasted a delicious and original pozole de coco, lightly sweetened and perfectly chilled (pic 20), then hopped on a collective to reach Valladolid after 24 hours of total serenity, visiting the most famous Mayan site in the best way possible… the nontouristytourist way! Text and photos by Philip Sinsheimer HACIENDA CHICHEN RESORT AND YAXKIN SPAhttp://www.haciendachichen.comTel: +52 999 920 8407 Posted in travel | Tagged Chichen Itza, Mexico | Leave a replyEditA ‘HYGGE’SUMMER IN COPENHAGEN Posted on In summer Copenhagen is an ideal destination: favorable weather, long and sunny days, smiling, polite and serene people. It seems that everyone here discovers the secret of happiness: hygge, a Danish word that invites you to enjoy the simple pleasures of life and live alone or with friends, at home or outside, special and happy moments. Find yourself singing on the beach around a bonfire, have a nice picnic at the park, attend an outdoor concert, participate in a street festival or take a bike ride … these and more are the little pleasures of life that feed the hygge spirit in the life of the Danes. To find out right away just do this test . The result is a real personalized treatment based on hygge, released with all the tips on how to get it on a trip to Denmark. Useful and precious, a true friend! I’m talking about the Copenhagen Card, a pass that allows you to visit as many as 86 museums and attractions, use all public transportation for free and benefit from discounts on tours, bars and restaurants. I also used it for a tour of the canals and the port. 1 hour, audiogude in all languages, a show of ancient and modern architecture, a sea of photos. passing the numerous bridges of the city. But pay attention to be seated: the bridges are very low and the risk to bump your head on it, it s quite possible. Tivoli The oldest playground in the world. You will skip over breathtaking roller coasters,you will be projected into space, you will remain suspended in the air more than a thousand other rides in the charming gardens where the oriental facade of beautiful Hotel Nimb stands out. After the aerial acrobatics, I finally relaxed in the Brasserie, famous Nimb restaurant, French cuisine, refined menu, excellent wine list, good service and relaxing atmosphere (apart from the crowded side room that celebrated a noisy birthday…) I tasted the Chef’s specialties, a delicate mollusk bisque served with scampi and carrots, a crunchy turbot à la meunière, sprinkled with lemon drops, ending with a puff pastry stuffed with strawberries and cream, all paired to my favorite Sancerre Domaine de La Garenne, deliciously fruity, In short, a dinner worthy of the unique atmosphere of the location. Copenhagen history boasts of royalties and magnificent castles,Here my favorites Amalienborg Palace, a must for anyone with a taste for royal history and the life of Denmark’s royal family who still resides inside the palace. Experience royal history at the museum and sense the present of one of the world’s oldest monarchies from the beautiful palace square where you can watch the changing of its famous guards called Den Kongelige Livgarde. Every day you can experience the changing of the guards, as they march from their barracks in 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and end up at Amalienborg, where the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon. Christiansborg Palace famous for its hall covered with 17 giant tapestries, which tell 1000 years of Danish history, It is a gift from The Danish business community in occasion of Her Majesty Queen Margrethe 50th birthday,. Bjørn Nørgaard painted the full-size sketches upon which the tapestries were woven. These impressive royal rooms host the official receptions in the presence of the Queen, between a sparkle of uniforms and great evening gowns. Better to avoid arriving by car or taxi, the protocol prefers that the guests present themselves in a carriage… As a food lover, I could not resist the temptation to descend into the legendary Royal Kitchens to discover the background of an official banquet, browse the Queen’s recipes and admire one of the largest collections of copper crockery in Europe. To be or not to be… I recommend a small excursion outside the city. Helsingør 30 minutes by train. The famous Castle of Kronborg, better known as Hamlet’s house, reigns there. In fact, here Shakespeare set his drama. Gossips say that the writer had never been there, but would have been an actor in his company to tell him about this mighty fortress, from whose park, littered with cannons, you can glimpse Sweden. Suddenly the walls resound with the voices of the characters of Hamlet, which appear, like ghosts, perfectly interpreted by talented actors who bring to life the tragic events of the drama, You could spend a whole day in Kronborg, and live many experiences, guided tours through the casemates and the halls, explore the passages and towers, see a play and relax admiring the sea – but if you prefer, you can get an idea Kronborg concrete even in just one hour. Kronborg is open all year round (except 1st January, 24th, 25th and 31st December) from 11am to 4pm. In the summer (June, July and August) the schedule is extended: from 10.30am to 5.30pm. After all that drama I needed a…great meal and I went to the renowned restaurant Brasserie 1861, where I met the Chef. His name is Casper StuhrSobczyk I can describe him as a gentle viking with the sweetest smile and… smoked sardines tattooed in his arm. They called him ‘the king of herbs ‘for his passion for vegetables and fresh products from the field. His passions are: fish, molluscs, entrails as lamb’s brain, (not so popular in the quite skeptic Northern Europe), He started with French cuisine, passed to the molecular and ended up with mixing them two styles. ‘I like to play with the ingredients, says Casper, like for example, pairing strawberries to balsamic vinegar. I worked in Danmark a lot, including the Copenhagen National Library. I got good reviews and I started my new adventure here at Marienlyst Hotel, In my my fridge at home, there is always place for eggs, probably because my wife loves them, lot of vegetables and of course several max sizei Pepsi. I Love Pepsi… ‘His friendly Verona born partner Fabio Ciccarelli started serving a surprising appetizer: a revolutionary version of the traditional blini, made with caviar white sturgeon, to be mixed to crème fraiche on herbal waffle. The ingredients just melt perfectly together. Then a salted unusually cooked burned salmon, followed by a mackerel with foie gras, green peas. As a main dish , I tasted halibut with asparagus that burned for few minutes to maintain the crunchiness. Every dish was so intense, so fresh and so herbal. No wonder why Chef Sobczyk is the ‘king of herbs… ’In the summer, Denmark is a foodies paradise with its festivals and gastronomic events Do not miss the Copenhagen Cooking & Food Festival from August 24th to September 2nd, during which Copenhagen becomes a huge Nordic restaurant and definitely stop at the new street food Reffen, an urban playground recently opened, that mixes crafts and culture. Reffen is a place where the people of Copenhagen are invited to take part in the development. 54 start-ups in the form of food stalls, bars and creative workshops many confirming the dogmas “Reduce and Reuse”. Mermaid yes or no? The most celebrated mermaid statue of The Little Mermaid from Hans Christian Andersen’s children’s story, sitting on a stone at Langelinie in the harbor of Copenhagen, Denmark. Honestly I saw her from the boat and I have to say that the invading ‘selfie addicted crowd’ didn’t appeal to me… So I went at night, and here she was, alone, shining on the dark, mysterious and looking like wanting to splash in the water any minute, That, I call a magic encounter with Miss Mermaid…for more info #visitdenmarkstories @govistdenmark. Posted in travel | Tagged Copenhagen | Leave a replyEditHamburg, Germany, Why go there and where to stay, what to eat Posted on I started my Hamburg experience with an avalanche of photos and selfies on board of the Stadtrundfahrt double-decker bus, providing earphones in all languages. In a couple of hours you’ll know the city, get off when you want, visit and get the next one. An indispensable tour, also in a mini-cruise version with Harbor CruiseYou will enjoy the aquatic view of the city, of the immense port and of the colossal cargo ships with gigantic containers. Hamburg means bricks, red bricks, so my next stop was Speicherstadt. Almost a kilometer of old warehouses with typical red bricks, used as storage for incoming goods: oriental carpets, tea, raw coffee, cocoa, tobacco, spices. Among the attractions: a kaffeerösterei, an old coffee roaster, where you can also enjoy decadent cakes with strawberries and cream. Chocoversum, a true chocolate triumph, Manufactum a trendy shop and the Spice Museum where you will find and taste everything: European spices, Asian and Indian flavors, exotic perfumes, 50 varieties of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, mustard seeds and the most expensive ones: orchid vanilla and saffron. Miniatur Wunderland Models of trains and landscapes in miniature? I was doubtful …well, I was amazed. Two huge floors where landscapes and cities of all the world have been meticulously reconstructed with airports, motorways, railways in great turmoil and crowded by a thousand minuscule people, including a team while washing Pope Francis car… Travel and read. 130 bookshops stocked with second hand books! Passengers are allowed not only to read them during their journey ,but also to take them home. Elbphilharmonie Extraordinary glass structure, with windows that look like eyes. With its perfect acoustic, hosts concerts and shows. You get there with a spectacular 82 meter escalator that runs through The Plaza, from which you can enjoy a great view. Perfect location for a drink or a snack at the Beer & Dine and a little shopping in the well-stocked book, music and souvenir store. Tickets can be booked 18 weeks in advance and children up to three years do not pay. Hamburg and its museums. I chose two. Kunsthalle, 700 years of art, from the great masters of the Renaissance until 1800 with Manet, Caspar David Friedrich, up to the German expressionism (which I adore) and the contemporary avant-garde . MKG Great museum with unusual exhibits: famous deco posters, precious vintage pianos, sketches and 30s dresses, a space dedicated to design furniture, photo galleries avant – garde and much more. It is true that the hamburger was born in Hamburg? The most famous meatball in the world is ‘made in the USA’ or ‘made in Hamburg’? The name would leave no doubt, but the Americans boast its paternity. The Germans claim that it was cooked in the houses of Hamburg and then it was exported to the USA, while for the Americans it would be born in the port of Hamburg, a municipality located in the state of New York and the inventors would have been the Menches brothers who in 1885 would propose the first sandwich stuffed with meat during the country festival Erie County Fair. Legends aside, here you will find space burgers. The best from Burger Lounge, Jim Block Jungfernstieg, Dulf’s Burger, Otto’s Burger Grindelhof and Schanze . WHERE TO STAY I tried two hotels, both experiences were great!
Novotel Hamburg City Alster Hotel 4-star hotel in the modern rooms and suites with a desk and free WIFI Central location and U-Bahn station on our doorstep make the Novotel Hamburg City Alster hotel the ideal base in Hamburg. 5-minutes away from Alster-Schwimmhalle and within 20 minutes of English Theatre Of Hamburg. Highlights at this hotel include in-room free WiFi, free high-speed Internet, and LCD TVs. All 210 soundproofed rooms feature sofa beds, satellite TV, and separate bathtubs and showers. You’ll find nice touches like soaking tubs and free toiletries to enhance your stay. Coffee/tea makers, free newspapers, and safes are also available. Enjoy the fitness centre, Turkish bath/hammam, and sauna. Business amenities include a meeting room and a business centre. Added amenities include free WiFi in public areas and laundry facilities. Each morning excellent buffet breakfast is served between 6:30 AM and 10:30 AM. Sights within a 20-minute walk of this 4-star Hamburg-Nord hotel include Museum of Arts and Crafts Hamburg and Mundsburg Center. Enjoy the comfort of the sauna and the video games area. Rooms are spacious and bright, Super comfy bed…I slept like a baby! Dining in is an option with room service, and minibars provide refreshments. I had a great lunch at the hotel stylish restaurant Novo2, and a nice chat with the executive Chef, who told me that his menu focuses on seasonal products and evergreen tasty meat. and suggested a juicy and tender La Maracho Rump Steak with sauteed vegetables and … a silver swan (just for decoration…) Novo2 is an innovative combination of a bar lounge , that offers delicious seasonal dishes and light snacks are served from 6.30am to 9.30pm. A cool spot where where you can have a nice glass of wine, like i did! INFO Luebecker Strasse 322087 HAMBURGGermanyHafenCity. It is the new futuristic district of Hamburg, area of creatives and artists, To get there they have specially built the metropolitan U4 line. in 3 stops from the center you have already arrived. Here you can breathe fresh air, the spaces are open and many Hamburgers get away from work to go for a drink or a snack. I stayed at the brand new 25 Hours HafenCityHotel where I had a great time. I felt like a sailor, the rooms look like a ship’s cabins, with prosperous painted models on the bathroom walls. Here atmosphere is easy and relaxed , The motto says COME AS YOU ARE! There is also free access to a spectacular spa in stones and wood. In the morning a rich buffet breakfast is set up, there you can find everything, including rotegruetze, my beloved raspberry, blueberry and cherry sauce served on lean yogurt. Yummy! What does a real Hamburger drink? Beer, of course! It has been produced in Hamburg for over a millennium and has become an icon of German culture. Here some popular ones. Ratsherrn, one of the city’s most famous artisan breweries From pilsner to light beers. Galopper des Jahres, popular and animated. The members of the staff are true fan of craft beer, so be sure to ask for their recommendations: they know what to suggest for every taste and palate. Blockbräu, a terrace with a wonderful view. My favorite? Altes Mädchen An incredible variety of excellent local and around 70 international beers, also combined with tasty German specialties.Remember, the real Hamburger does not drink Coca Cola! The preferred alternative is fritz-kola, rich in caffeine and lemon. It was born in 2002, invented almost for fun by young friends Lorenz and Mirco and produced with a really amateur process. Imagine: the labels were photocopies and they were glued by hand on the bottle … Today it is the national soft drink. Red lights … night and day!The St. Pauli district was once a bad area full of noisy pubs, frequented by criminals, sailors and prostitutes. Today the taverns have become artistic skyscrapers, like the Dancing Towers, which seem to really dance, while the smoky haunts of the past have become fashionable places. But the raunchy survived: sex shops, theaters, striptease, burlesque and the inevitable bouncers who invite you to enter. In addition to the ‘sensory’ attractions, the neighborhood is full of super-trendy shops, new boutiques, hip clubs and bars Keep walking around the St.Pauli district, head towards Markstrasse and the surroundings of KarolinenvIertel.There You will find small bars, self-managed restaurants, flowers, perfumes, mini boutiques and lots of vintage. If you are ‘bio’ dive into the Rider Markt Halle, and a relaxing drink from Zoe the bar of the different sofas. For more chic and exclusive products, head to Hole Bleichen.Then it comes the time for… beauty and relaxation.After a long walk, it is right to take a relaxing break in Jungfernstieg, in the heart of Hamburg with a fantastic view of the Alster river. Here Nivea Hausawaits for you, this is the official store of the famous face cream, born in Hamburg in 1929. Here you can find classic or brand new creams for face and body, cosmetics, revitalizing treatments, relaxing massages, as well as manicures and pedicures. Plus a really cute souvenir: your ‘Nivea’. You ‘ll be photographed and in a second …you’re on the cover of the famous blue box. I couldn’t resist … So, what do you think? Am I fine for a cream cover? Posted in travel | Tagged Hamburg | Leave a replyEditMATERA, Italy. The city, the Sassi and the best Lucanian dishes Posted on Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By day the sunlight enhances its white. At night, it looks like an immense nativity set up under the starry sky. Its quarter I Sassi, ancient dwellings dug into the tufo, where the roofs serve as a base for the houses that have developed on higher levels. These were dug entirely into the rock and represent one of the most striking examples of exploitation of natural resources to obtain suitable conditions for the life of a large community. In the caves often lived more families and despite the lack of space, almost all daily activities took place in the cavities of cave-houses: from handicrafts to weaving, from food storage to animal care (dogs, chicken, pigs, horses and donkeys were living with the family as primitive source of heating). The temperature was constant and guaranteed by the characteristics of the sea tufo , so the inhabitants did not suffer too much from the cold in winter and found a shelter from summer heat. This way of life for years has been seen as a sign of backwardness and incivility. The inhabitants of the Sassi were often considered as primitives living like animals. In 1952 Sassi was considered “the Italian national shame”and abandoned in the late ’50s, Sassi was able to be redeemed until they became Unesco World Heritage in and will be the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Its amazing scenario has been used s a set for Mel Gibson “The Passion” Pier Paolo Pasolini “The Gospel According to Matthew “King David”, Christ The Lord: Out of Egypt “, and the remake of “Ben-Hur “. I took the Gran Tourof Sassi, an intense 3 hours guided tour and I learn so much about the history of this amazing city. The tour begins in front of the Cathedral, in the upper part of the City, and then goes deeper into the tangle of narrow alleys, caves, cellars, churches, small gardens, tiny squares and districts. I was able to discover in detail these unusual dwellings partly carved out of the limestone. It s a long walk, so wear comfy shoes. Matera is also well now for its cooking tradition, a classic example of Italian peasant cuisine, using free ingredients combined with a fair amount of labor and know-how to turn an odd edible food into a delectable dish. Here my choices: ll Terrazzino View, ambience, real food, rich menu, moderate prices and …did I mentioned the view? Welcome to Il Terrazzino, one of the oldest deck restaurant in Sassi Eustachio Persia welcomed me with a dish of local cold cuts, including my fav lampascioni, bulbs of a common wildflower in southern Italy, then I ordered lamb, and…surprise! iIt came wrapped in yellow strawpaper. ‘This place used to be a cantina, told me Eustachio, just wine, no food.So people used to cook it at home and take it here, all wrapped up in paper tto keep it warm,then tear the bag and eat it paired with a nice glass of wine.Then came the crapiata a soup of different legumes, cereals and potatoes typical of the Basilicata cuisine of rural tradition, prepared in great quantity every year on the first day of August in the district La Martella, close to the cultivated fields and served to the inhabitants. Eustachio took me downstairs, to the 17 century cellar, which incorporates the typical architecture of the Sassi and was refurbished to retrace moments of daily life of the peasant life, Baccus Simple yet elegant restaurant Located in the Sassi area, Baccus is well know for its Chef Carlo Pozzuoli who likes to reinterpretate typical local dishes and flavors of the past in a modern way. Starting with super crunchy chips of red peppers, followed by fagots of ziti with cream of yellow and red peppers, bundled in a slice of sweet scamorza cheese topped by goat ricotta curlS. A soupy Dish with tagliolini pasta with black and white chickpeas, considered ideal fro pregnant women, since it contains a lot of iron. The menu dedicates an attentive search of local herbs, like the cicoriella, the sivone and other fresh leaves variously used in cooking: in salads, minestrone, simply boiled with oil and lemon, or as a filling of ravioli and pansotti or excellent omelettes. Carlo and his wife Mariella were wonderful hosts. Not only keeping me company at the table but also surprising me with a taste of a sweet heart shaped Sporcamuso, (begrime the face) a dessert so full of cream that I inevitably ended up with hot pastry cream all over my face. Da Mario ‘We represent the tradition. My family managed this restaurant since the 50’s’ told me Anna, owner of the popular Ristorante Pizzeria Da Mario ‘Since then we are always been loved by the people from Matera and from all over the world. Many celebrities have eaten here: Richard Gere, Mel Gibson just to mention few’ I went there for lunch and followed Anna’s suggestions, starting with a tasty orecchiette alle rape with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs, then I tried home made strascinati pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms and garnished with the typical crunchy peperone crusco, fried red pepper. Da Mario is know for its pizza. I tried a baby Margherita, perfectly cooked. ‘I love my town, peaceful and quiet, I run the restaurant a cosy BnB called Sassi Belvedere although sometimes I need some noise… some that’s why I have a place in Milan, where I go , like an escape little vacation, but then I am happy to be back in my Lucania ( the ancient name of Basilicata) Sorry I still call it Lucania.. perhaps it’s because I like the old things… I don’t blame her.. Where I stayed. Residence San Gennaro, located in the inner courtyard of the old “neighborhood”, once the fulcrum of the days of the inhabitants Super friendly host Francesco delighted me with anecdotes about the city, gave me tips took me to the prehistoric hypogeous cave below the residence, embellished with a precious Nativity and prepared a great breakfast that included fresh local products. I stayed in Guerricchio suite, that has a kitchenette, a delightful double bedroom, a private bathroom and a cute little balcony to enjoy the view on the enchanting Sassi of Matera. It is At the entrance an artistic work of great value welcomed me. “Girasoli di Guerricchio”, a Lucanian artist to whom the suite is dedicated. I also lovedCasa Noha An amazing gateway” to the city, charting its history thanks to an innovative communication project, where the walls, the ceilings and the floors will take to an extraordinary journey through the history of Matera from its origins to the present day. MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture Matera) This unique museum provides the perfect environment for the symbiosis of sculpture and the characteristic carved sites in the Sassi; the exhibition galleries, in fact, consist not only of the rooms of the Palazzo, but also the vast hypogea, where the works of art are revitalized by the strength and beauty of the surrounding rock hewn spaces Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Baccus, Basilicata, Da Mario, Il Terrazino, Matera, Sassi | Leave a replyEdit
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see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articleBOUTIQUE HOTEL CASA ANGELINA, AMALFI COAST by Cesare Zuccahttp://www.torrettas.comThree ‘Nobel’ days in Oslo Stay at the Grand Hotel 3 HOTELS ROOF TOPS you don’t want to miss by Cesare Zucca Discovering beautiful Poland POZNAN by Cesare Zucca INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Phnom Penh BEST ‘KIDS FRIENDLY’ MUSEUMS IN NEW YORK Children’s Museum of The Arts (103 Charlton St) invita all’arte, coinvolgendo i bambini in disinvolte classi di pittura, ceramica, scultura e musica. New York City Fire Museum (278 Spring St) organizza Safety Tour, una vera lezione sul fuoco con tanto di simulazione di incendio, dove un vigile newyorkese insegnerà le tecniche di salvataggio. Children’s Museum of Manhattan (212 West 83 St) è un immenso asilo stile Disneyland con cinque piani di attrazioni, giochi educativi, passatempi intelligenti e divertimento, daLet’s Dance, spazio interattivo dedicato ai bambini che amano ballare, a Art, Artists & You dove i piccoli si improvvisavo artisti . Natural History Museum (CPW/79 St) ospita The Butterfly Conservatory, una foresta con più di 500 farfalle da tutto il mondo. You just don’t realize how lucky you were when your join the guided 3,30-hour food tour organized by VisitLLjubljana.com managed by the Tourism Office of Ljubljana until you experience it. They offer numerous guided city tours including the Historical City Centre and Ljubljana Castlerevolving around history, art and landmarks, whether on foot, bicycle or on a boat cruising the river. There is no other way to sample the incredible diversity of Slovenian food in so little time and in such a fun and well-paced way. Slovenia is a small country yes, but it counts no less than 24 gastronomic regions. Ljubljana, reminding me of Paris in a way, is pretty much in the center of the country and, as a capital, has attracted many food vendors and restaurateurs to benefit from the largest concentration of population (and tourists) of the country. But, right off the bat, let me tell you that, at no point, do you feel shepherded to a pasture of touristic traps you would have found on your own. The choice is balanced between food shops and restaurants, clearly very carefully picked. Also, it isn’t a gorging party: at the end of the tour, you feel satiated, without ever feeling over full!. As all good cooking requests, things started with the sourcing of ingredients: the market! And Ljubljana is blessed, right in its center with a human sized, yet substantial farmer’s market, with one section dedicated to only certified organic vendors. I had noticed on my way to the tour some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms, as well as yellow broad beans that I had never encountered before. Lucky enough, I was able to find them again and was met with the most charming smile the seller could have shared. Then, we got to visit the permanent covered market, a beautiful building along the riverbank. That was like entering a world of its own. Gorgeous charcuterie, cheeses, breads (got a loaf of this dark and dense bread, yet moist and oh! so tasty). A separate section is dedicated to fish, perhaps for temperature and odor control. Whatever the reason might be, I was really impressed by the display of fish available and the absence actually of any strong fishy smell. Slovenia is known mainly as an inland country, but it does have a little bit of coast on the Adriatic Sea and they sure know how to source the best of what can come out of it. Everything looked so fresh, a real temptation for any cook. But carrying fish on ice for the rest of the tour was NOT going to happen! We met our lovely guide Simona in Ciril-Metodov, the cobblestoned main street. She took us at Klòbasarna, where we had the first tasting: a warm smoked sausage form the Carniola region just South of Austria, in other words at the Northern end of Slovenia. Made of the finest pieces of pork, this sausage neither greasy nor too dry, just hit the spot accompanied by a light red wine, a little horseradish and mustard which I loved. Simona took us in more that 7 venues, specialized in different specialties, from the syrups and the honeys of Dobrote-Dolenjske, to the traditional cake prekmurska gibanica homemade at GujzinaI won’t be going in the detail of all the things tasted, either in gastronomic shops or in restaurants… I want you to go and experience it for yourself. Besides beef tongue, fried chicken, honey (Slovenia is Europe’s largest producer per capita), my heart will go for this humble dish of mashed potatoes with sautéed onions and bits of bacon that we tasted at a very special restaurant, Druga Violina, where all the members of the staff suffer from some form of disability or another. It felt really good to contribute to this effort to support the community and, let’s be frank, it also tasted soooo good, just by itself. With influences coming from all neighboring countries (Italy, Austria, Hungry and Croatia), tucked between sea, plains, forests and mountains, the small country of Slovenia is rich of diversity and, if this three-hour tour cannot cover everything, it sure serves as the best introduction one can hope to taste in this timeframe! Tours priced at 52€ everything included, To make a reservation For more infowww.visitLjubljana.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Food Tour, Ljubljana, prekmurska gibanica, Tourism Office of Ljubljana | Leave a replyEditGRAND HOTEL TOPLICE, JULIJANA RESTAURANT IN BLED, SLOVENIA Posted on Slovenia. Bled, about an hour North of the capital Ljubljana to the North-West of Slovenia. Rather than the town it is the beautiful lake that gives the name Bled, famous among the European elite as early as the 1930’s with the construction of a luxurious hotel providing natural hot spring source knowned for health benefits.I am talking of the Grand Hotel Toplice, a venue that boasts a rich history, a magical location, gorgeous alpine and lake views and sumptuously comfortable, elegantly styled rooms. Each of the rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Toplice has its own unique character and are traditionally styled with beautiful parquet floors, rich furniture and beautiful paintings with many of the rooms benefiting from breathtakingly beautiful lake views. The hotel has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory and is one of the best hotels in Slovenia as well as being a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection. It has hosted many eminent guests and is frequented by celebrities such as Vivian Leigh, Arthur Miller, Pablo Neruda, King Hussein of Jordan, Paul McCartney and…me, with my best friend-chef-writer Philip Sinsheimer, graciously hosted by Sava hotel and resort group that manage the venue. Starting from the impeccable reception. the hotel boasts luxurious accommodation, few restaurant, a bar and the enchantment of Lake Bled. All rooms and suites are individually decorated in an enchanting and traditional style, lavishly equipped with an excellent range of facilities, a relaxing thermal swimming pool and benefit from different saunas, wellness services and a solarium among a private lido, where Philip (expert swimmer) dived in the limpid lake water while me (lazy man…) was indulging in a relaxing sunbathing. We dedicated the morning ( when the light is best) to row to the island where the minuscule baroque chapel.I was anxious to hear the bells rings, because I knew about the legend wich narrates that around the year 1500, the leaseholder of Lake Bled at the time, Hartman Kreigh, disappeared. People said he was killed. Sad for the events, the Lady of the Castle collected all of her precious golden jewellery to be melted down and casted into a bell for the chapel on the island of the Lake, so that the bell would toll in remembrance of beloved companion. They say the bell has a magic power, when it rings, you should make 3 wishes and wait for them to become real. We did 99 steps and finally we arrived at the church, where the view is really breathtaking and, yes, we waited for the bell… Not sure my wishes are becoming a reality, we ll see…. A true wish coming true was the splendid dinner we were invited for dinner at Julijana Restaurant where Chef Bertoncelj prepared a great dinner. I leave Philip the privilege of writing about it, since he is a chef and a food blogger. GRANDE CUISINE BY THE LAKE This historic landmark now called the Grand Hotel Toplice, operated by the Sava hotel and resort group, has managed to preserve the relics of the past with grand salons adorned with memorabilia pictures and bring all the comfort of modernity at the same time.This delicate balance between past was brilliantly reflected in the cuisine of the executive chef Simon Bertoncelj and the whole crew under him. Having dinner at the gastronomic JulijanaRestaurant, especially if the weather allows to eat al fresco facing the lake is a moment of bliss: the quality of service, attention to detail and classic decor evoke a certain respect of classical elegance. This doesn’t constrain the cuisine to old classics, and the chef’s creativity and modern techniques seem to find their place very naturally in this elegant environment. The mise en bouche consisting of a delicately baked oyster and a buttery giant shrimp had all the signs of what you can expect in a palace restaurant: prime quality ingredients simply treated. This seafood opening was in synch with the view of the water even though it wasn’t the sea. As I were to learn later by the chef, unfortunately, as beautiful as it is, the lake doesn’t often yield the quantity of fish needed to take place on the menu. The mushroom cappuccino with porcini had the depth of flavor one can only get in top notch restaurants, served piping hot but adorned with the freshness of a few micro greens scattered on top rather than the old habit of a dollop of cream and a few chives. Fresh too was the vitello tonnato inspired salad, bright and lively. Here, as in all the great restaurants experienced in Slovenia, the wine list paid homage to the country’s fine wines, such as the 2017Verus Chardonnay from Stajerska, the western part of the Podravje region in the North of the country. At last a chardonnay that can showcase both concentration of flavors and freshness in the palate with a mere 13° alcohol content.The shining fish course was a thick and moist turbot filet, perfectly cooked and adorned by a beautiful composition of vegetables and foamy grapefruit sauce. Here again: classic base and modern composition. Though generous, nothing was heavy, and the beautiful matured saddle of veal served pink with a herb crust was still welcome. To finish, the iconic Bled Cream Cake, which recipe goes back to 1953 and is secretly kept by the Sava hotels group. The result was up to the legend. Even though I really do not have much of a sweet tooth, and I have had my share of mille-feuilles in France, this raised version of the classic with just two layers of perfectly crisp puffed pastry holding a firm custard covered by a layer of lighter whipped cream is to die for… Chef Simon Bertoncelj, who has worked under the commands of Gordon Ramsey, seems rather poised and discreet, but if you really want to find out, he opens his kitchen to a guest table of 2 to 6 people for a 7-course menu cooked and served, right before their eyes…and ears! For more info Julijana Restaurant Grand Hotel Toplice Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenia +386 4 579 10 00 Contact Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenija Reception +386 4 579 10 00 ghtoplice@hotelibled.com Reservations +386 4 579 16 00 info@hotelibled.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Bed, chef Simon Bertoncelj, Grand Hotel Toplice, Juljiana Restaurant, Slovenia | Leave a replyEditHotel Hellsten, Stockholm. Memories of an exotic journey Posted on Hotel Hellsten is located in the heart of Stockholm and is the ideal starting point for all those who are visiting the City, since the attractions and sites of interest are reachable by public transport within easy reach including the subway that is just round the corner. The next street is the busy Sveavägen, Stockholm”s only real boulevard. The hotel is just around the corner from the underground (metro) stop Rådmansgatan. The locality is one of the most exciting in Stockholm, with a multitude of different restaurants within a few minutes walking distance. It is also a short walk from Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic and beautiful old town. I loved the area, and the next busy street Sveavägen, so alive and full of restaurants, shops and…barbers & haidressers,don’t ask me why, but very useful… The rooms are divided into various types depending on the services they offer, mostly in different styles, some have canopy bed, some are equipped with the classic Swedish fireplace called kakelugnar, light rays, wooden panels, even a private sauna, The walls are painted with warm colors that span from orange to red, to blue, to purple. All rooms have private new bathrooms, TV, telephone, free wired internet access and a hairdryer. They are non-smoking as well as the entire structure. My room had a cosy little terrace. Here and there I found exotic touches, my guide explained that Mr.Hellsten, owner of Hellsten, Rex and the newest Hellsten Glashus, is an enthusiastic traveller who likes to collect items from his trips. I loved the african masks ! You have a colonial-style bar where coffee and tea are served 24 hours for free. Great idea! Every Thursday Hellsten Earth Bar transforms into one of Stockholm’s premier jazz venues. Exciting live acts on stage at 8pm and on the last Thursday of each month you are welcome to jam with the band, just bring your instruments or vocals, and the entrance is free.. Comfy beds and an excellent breakfast buffet that included pancakes, cold cuts, cheeses, eggs, lots of fruits and the traditional Swedish meatballs and served in a sunny and spacious veranda. Add Hotel Hellsten on your next trip to Stockholm! For more info http://hellsten.se/en/Hotel_Hellsten Posted in travel | Tagged Hotel Hellsten, Stockholm | Leave a replyEditIndustrial or design? A posh stay in Hamburg Posted on In my last trip to Hamburg I got the chance to visit and stay in Hotel Gastwerk and The George, two great properties owned by Fortune Hotels Group. They have different style and decor, both friendly, welcoming and worth to spend one (or few) nights there.Let’s start with the industrial red bricks Gastwerk. The name says it all, It was a squared and rigorous red bricks gas factory. Roughly 120 years ago, the old gas plant provided light to the streets and houses in West Hamburg. In the impressive and carefully restored industrial building, built with brick and steel, modern design and historical architecture form a fascinating harmonic setting. Gastwerk is first Hamburg’s design hotel. The building welcomed me with a large hall with a wide, meticulously well lighted reception and two unforgettable metal elevators, one red and one yellow lighted. The industrial adventure was already starting… 141 rooms, lofts and suites, some with modern walls with a contemporary feeling, some with bricks walls (I love them), like the loft-like one where I was staying, giving the perfect atmosphere of and warehouse. In addition to that Gastwerk boasts a configurable conference area, the Mangold restaurant (I didn’t dine there, so no idea of the food) the L.BAR, the beautiful SPA, free parking spaces in front of the hotel and underground. Here and there you’ll discover classy touches of fresh flowers, old black and white pictures, original gas machines, and a splendid old water boiler. The second Fortune Hotel is The George, located in the hearth of the vibrant Saint George area. This venue is a triumphant tribute to the apotheosis of a ‘boutique hotel’ concept, where design meets furniture, lighting and that smell of trendyness… This reinterpretation of English style in Hamburg results in rooms swathed in warm colors ranging from cocoa to Champagne, lamps with delightful pleated shades and stylish wallpaper in a variety of designs. Super comfy mattresses, a nice view of the Lake Alster, not to mention that sweet & cute ‘Welcome Cesare’… The George Hotel is a four-pearl property flush with a Great-Britain-in-the-’60s design, with 125 stylish rooms that all have flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free weight, a party-vibe bar, the supercool rooftop Campari Lounge in the terrace with a spectacular view of the Alster, a defined breakfast buffet that included a fine selection of cold cuts, imported cheeses, fruits and vegetables, and… Yes! there is Da Caio, italian restaurant (where I could not resist peeping at the menu, which I found correct in dishes choices and…right spelling, which is always a good sign for an Italian eating in an Italian restaurant abroad… Here info Hotel Gastwerk The George, Fortune Hotels Group. Posted in travel | Tagged Da Caio, Fortune Hotels Group, Gastwerk Hotel, Hamburg, The George Hotel | Leave a replyEditTwo memorable days in Pula Posted on Great history, mild climate, smooth sea, unspoiled nature, dream beaches, friendly locals, smiling people, amazing food and…best teeth on hearth! Welcome to Croatia!I spent only two days in Pula, but, believe me , I ‘ll go back!. Pula is the largest town on the Istrian peninsula and offers a diversity of attractions to lovers of culture. The rich itinerary of its three thousand year old history, where every step you take through the Old Town is a landmark, begins and ends with the Roman amphitheatre. The city has a long tradition of winemaking, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism. The Arena. Pula’s amphitheater was built around the end of the first century before Christ. It was August with a very hot weather. That s why my lovely guide Rossana met me there early in the morning , immediately after they open the gate. I suggest you to do the same. Rossana told me a quite cute legend about a raw linen made tent (they called it velarium) that used to be opened up to protect from the sun and give some shade to the audience while watching the show, or function as a bug umbrella in case of rain. Actually the morning is he best time to come to the arena as well the sunset time. Often the Arena hosts operas, concerts and performances. The acoustic is amazing: Tenors Giorgio Pavarotti, Placido Domingo and Beniamino Gigli said the this place was one of the most suitable for their voice and for the public. In the Arena have been performing great music legends such as Tina Turner, Joe Cocker, Sting, Simply Red, Robert Plant, Status Quo, Massive Attack, just to mention few. Every summer, Pula host a superb Film Festival in the Arena, Celebrity town. Pula was also the residence of many Italian celebrities, from Italian singer Sergio Endrigo, to Italian actress Alida Valli who was celebrated as one of the most beautiful woman in the he world.Pula girls! The legacy of Alida Valli keeps the tradition. Beauty, charme, and those beautiful legs, so famous all over the world, make the local girls into dreamgirls ! Writer James Joyce choose Pula as his residency for several years. After a full day of historical sightseeing you will find many coffee shops on the street Forum including Café Uliks is a must for any fans of James Joyce, the Irish author who worked in Pula as a teacher in the early 20th century.Wines and foodWines top quality wines including Malvasia (one of my favorites) the most famous Istrian wines produced from indigenous white grapes. and Teran, a rich red wine, intensely purple colored, able to compet with the Italian ones but less expensive. A big time specialty is the zgvacet ragout. It is a sauce of diced chunks of chicken meat. In Pula, just as in most towns of Istria, be sure to taste seafood specialties, of which dishes rospi (monkfish), sea bass or delicious buzara Kvarner scampi only a small number of delicacies on offer. In Pula you should try and shells, thanks to the clear waters are a special flavor mussels, scallops or kanaštrele excellent fish stew, and definitely should try the black risotto with cuttlefish. Lovers of oily fish to taste anchovies to savor. This dish is eaten cold and fried sardines topped with sauce, oil, onion, vinegar and spices.In Pula you should try and maneštras traditional thick soup whose main ingredients are potatoes and beans with added mixture of bacon and garlic. Truffles! Many Pula’s restaurants carry the highlight of gastronomy: the white truffles. Try them with fusi or gnocchi with truffles or shaved over meat or cheese. But the real combo, the Romeo and Juliet of the choiche should be truffles and eggs!Bars, shops, market and flea marketsHave fun, look around, bargain! Smile!Dental tourism, is hot in Croatia, organized groups come here and put their teeth in place with low-budget, cheaper prices, excellent quality, good materials and expert dentist. How to contact them who contact them? Or you can see on the websites or call the local tourist agency that will give you advice on the best places or to be so lucky to have a friend who has already been here already. Do not! Croatia has its own currency: the kuna. Don’t change your money in the street, you may get useless Balcanian or Bulgarian money… Go into a bank and change there!Where to stay I stayed atAmfiteatar Hotel, located in the heart of the Pula city, hotel Amphitheater is at a 2 minutes walking distance to the Arena and 5 minutes walking distance to the city cathedral, with the harbor also in the close vicinity. Beach and the airport are only 10 minutes away by car. Very close to the arena and within a short walking distance to all the other attractions in the old town. I had dinner in the outdoor restaurant, Owner Chef and culinary star Deniz Zembo prepared delicious local dishes with a twist. I loved the grilled octopuss and delicious cake. I would like to thank the lovely ladies Viviana Vukelic and Adriana Bajic from Ente Nazionale Croato per il Turismo in Milan and the super cool Goran from the Tourism Office in Pula, Chef Deniz Zembo and my amazing guide Rossana. They truly contributed to make my Pula’s visit memorable,fun and wonderful. For more info ENTE NAZIONALE CROATO PER IL TURISMO https://croatia.hr/en-GB TOURISM OFFICE PULA http://www.pulainfo.hr/Hacienda Chichen: discover the most revered Mayan site the smart way!Chichen Itza, located inland of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 200 km East of Cancun, is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Mexico with over 2.6 million tourists in 2017. Do the math… .That’s on average over 7000 visitors a day. Even though the site is not limited to the iconic Kukulcàn pyramid (photo 1) and covers a very large area (over 300 hectares), that is a lot of human flesh roaming around! Especialy when one considers that the most popular way to visit the Unesco world heritage site is via tour operators organizing day trips from Cancun or Merida, creating a huge influx of fully loaded buses arriving around 11 AM or so every day. Arriving with the sun at its hottest among hordes of tourists had always been a deterring idea to me. I had sacrificed the visit of wholly site during my passed 3 visits of Yucatan, favoring the ruins of Tulum and Cuba, less crowded and still awesome examples of the might and splendor of the Mayan civilization. For this fourth visit this last spring, I was determined to visit the legendary Chichen Itza in the best way possible. Staying overnight at the Hacienda Chichen revealed to be the smartest answer possible. Smart because by staying overnight in this historic hotel located a few hundred feet from the archeological site enables to start exploring the grounds as early as 8 AM, before the arrival of the crowds. Smart, because the hotel combines genuine elegance and great service while respecting authenticity and ecological responsibility. Follow me, let me show you the way…When I arrived from Tulum around noon at the Chichen Itza bus terminal, I was left at the main entrance of the site in one of the largest parking lots I have ever seen: hundreds of buses still unloading their loads of tourists from every continent. The line to the ticket booth was long, the heat dreadful. Instead of joining the frenzy, I hopped in a cab and 10 minutes later, I was discovering the old-world charm of the Hacienda Chichen. The check in was a breeze and the welcoming cocktail made of pineapple and Chaya leaf juice refreshing as heaven (pic 3). I was later to learn that it had been freshly made from the organic garden of the property, providing a lot of the fruits, vegetables and herbs used by the kitchen The front desk offered to arrange the purchase of my ticket to visit the site the next morning, without any surcharge, avoiding the hassle to wait in line. They also offered the possibility to have a legitimate private guide for the visit, but as usual, I declined in order to feel totally free and visit at my own pace. The afternoon was mine to relax and enjoy what the Hacienda had to offer. The 28 rooms set in a total of 12 cottages spread out on the lush grounds were originally built to host archeologists who helped excavate the site. Now they are opened to all offering soothing air conditioning, large bed, beautiful sheets, large bathrooms, fresh flowers and hammocks on the front porch for those eager to adopt the Mayan way to take a nap at the sound of singing birds Another way to relax in a horizontal way is to indulge in one of the treatments at the Yaxkin spa. And that’s exactly what I did, with the 45-minute Pakal treatment, a Maya healing ritual focusing on the head and the upper body. The soul is also soothed by an initial prayer in Mayan language by my charming therapist. I loved the fact that the room was very large, not one of those cubicles where on feels locked up. The outside garden was present in the room with the use of various herbs and plants, including a refreshing aloe vera jelly applied on the face.Totally relaxed, I finished the afternoon by lingering by the superb swimming pool, large and square as I like them to do laps at length. .Recycled and chemical-free water added a guilt free sensation to the overall pleasure. Time went by and before I knew it was time to meet the general manager for a grand tour of the property, including the restored church where weddings can be organized, surrounded by the beautifully maintained vegetation). No wedding the evening of my stay, but I still felt like a very special person, enjoying an evening drink on the beautiful front patio at the sound of a traditional trio singing deep from the heart local ballads. For dinner, I ventured across the street to the humbler Villas Areological hotel (http://www.villasarqueologicas.com.mx/chichen-itza.html) that I wanted to check out for its restaurant serving a variety of traditional dishes from Yucatan. The best, by far, was the cream of Chaya soup and I appreciated the selection of Mexican wines. The night was young, but the day had been long, so I was eager to return to my beautiful room for a good night sleep. At 8:20 Am, I recuperated my ticket to visit the site and was guided to the private entrance specific to the Hacienda. I was alone when I crossed the gate and after a ten-minute walk, I was facing the beautiful Mayan pyramid with the company of a couple of iguanas, but not another human soul. The morning air was cool, and the silence only broken by singing birds. All the merchants on the way were focused on unpacking their things, leaving me unburdened. Besides the famous pyramid, I loved walking through the gigantic ball game field practically alone As well as discovering the sacred cenote (sinkhole) and the perfectly aligned columns without the eye sore of groups of tourists ruining the geometry of the monuments. After three hours of walking at my own pace, I went back to the Hacienda, walking against the growing flow of visitors and the solicitations of the souvenir vendors, they were in full swing mode, trying to sell their T-shirts and miniature statues probably made in China! The heat had risen and a last dip in the pool after a refreshing outdoor shower felt like pure bliss. At noon I was packed and ready to leave this magical place. A short taxi ride took me to the small town of Piste where I tasted a delicious and original pozole de coco, lightly sweetened and perfectly chilled (pic 20), then hopped on a collective to reach Valladolid after 24 hours of total serenity, visiting the most famous Mayan site in the best way possible… the nontouristytourist way! Text and photos by Philip Sinsheimer HACIENDA CHICHEN RESORT AND YAXKIN SPAhttp://www.haciendachichen.comTel: +52 999 920 8407 Posted in travel | Tagged Chichen Itza, Mexico | Leave a replyEditA ‘HYGGE’SUMMER IN COPENHAGEN Posted on In summer Copenhagen is an ideal destination: favorable weather, long and sunny days, smiling, polite and serene people. It seems that everyone here discovers the secret of happiness: hygge, a Danish word that invites you to enjoy the simple pleasures of life and live alone or with friends, at home or outside, special and happy moments. Find yourself singing on the beach around a bonfire, have a nice picnic at the park, attend an outdoor concert, participate in a street festival or take a bike ride … these and more are the little pleasures of life that feed the hygge spirit in the life of the Danes. To find out right away just do this test . The result is a real personalized treatment based on hygge, released with all the tips on how to get it on a trip to Denmark. Useful and precious, a true friend! I’m talking about the Copenhagen Card, a pass that allows you to visit as many as 86 museums and attractions, use all public transportation for free and benefit from discounts on tours, bars and restaurants. I also used it for a tour of the canals and the port. 1 hour, audiogude in all languages, a show of ancient and modern architecture, a sea of photos. passing the numerous bridges of the city. But pay attention to be seated: the bridges are very low and the risk to bump your head on it, it s quite possible. Tivoli The oldest playground in the world. You will skip over breathtaking roller coasters,you will be projected into space, you will remain suspended in the air more than a thousand other rides in the charming gardens where the oriental facade of beautiful Hotel Nimb stands out. After the aerial acrobatics, I finally relaxed in the Brasserie, famous Nimb restaurant, French cuisine, refined menu, excellent wine list, good service and relaxing atmosphere (apart from the crowded side room that celebrated a noisy birthday…) I tasted the Chef’s specialties, a delicate mollusk bisque served with scampi and carrots, a crunchy turbot à la meunière, sprinkled with lemon drops, ending with a puff pastry stuffed with strawberries and cream, all paired to my favorite Sancerre Domaine de La Garenne, deliciously fruity, In short, a dinner worthy of the unique atmosphere of the location. Copenhagen history boasts of royalties and magnificent castles,Here my favorites Amalienborg Palace, a must for anyone with a taste for royal history and the life of Denmark’s royal family who still resides inside the palace. Experience royal history at the museum and sense the present of one of the world’s oldest monarchies from the beautiful palace square where you can watch the changing of its famous guards called Den Kongelige Livgarde. Every day you can experience the changing of the guards, as they march from their barracks in 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and end up at Amalienborg, where the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon. Christiansborg Palace famous for its hall covered with 17 giant tapestries, which tell 1000 years of Danish history, It is a gift from The Danish business community in occasion of Her Majesty Queen Margrethe 50th birthday,. Bjørn Nørgaard painted the full-size sketches upon which the tapestries were woven. These impressive royal rooms host the official receptions in the presence of the Queen, between a sparkle of uniforms and great evening gowns. Better to avoid arriving by car or taxi, the protocol prefers that the guests present themselves in a carriage… As a food lover, I could not resist the temptation to descend into the legendary Royal Kitchens to discover the background of an official banquet, browse the Queen’s recipes and admire one of the largest collections of copper crockery in Europe. To be or not to be… I recommend a small excursion outside the city. Helsingør 30 minutes by train. The famous Castle of Kronborg, better known as Hamlet’s house, reigns there. In fact, here Shakespeare set his drama. Gossips say that the writer had never been there, but would have been an actor in his company to tell him about this mighty fortress, from whose park, littered with cannons, you can glimpse Sweden. Suddenly the walls resound with the voices of the characters of Hamlet, which appear, like ghosts, perfectly interpreted by talented actors who bring to life the tragic events of the drama, You could spend a whole day in Kronborg, and live many experiences, guided tours through the casemates and the halls, explore the passages and towers, see a play and relax admiring the sea – but if you prefer, you can get an idea Kronborg concrete even in just one hour. Kronborg is open all year round (except 1st January, 24th, 25th and 31st December) from 11am to 4pm. In the summer (June, July and August) the schedule is extended: from 10.30am to 5.30pm. After all that drama I needed a…great meal and I went to the renowned restaurant Brasserie 1861, where I met the Chef. His name is Casper StuhrSobczyk I can describe him as a gentle viking with the sweetest smile and… smoked sardines tattooed in his arm. They called him ‘the king of herbs ‘for his passion for vegetables and fresh products from the field. His passions are: fish, molluscs, entrails as lamb’s brain, (not so popular in the quite skeptic Northern Europe), He started with French cuisine, passed to the molecular and ended up with mixing them two styles. ‘I like to play with the ingredients, says Casper, like for example, pairing strawberries to balsamic vinegar. I worked in Danmark a lot, including the Copenhagen National Library. I got good reviews and I started my new adventure here at Marienlyst Hotel, In my my fridge at home, there is always place for eggs, probably because my wife loves them, lot of vegetables and of course several max sizei Pepsi. I Love Pepsi… ‘His friendly Verona born partner Fabio Ciccarelli started serving a surprising appetizer: a revolutionary version of the traditional blini, made with caviar white sturgeon, to be mixed to crème fraiche on herbal waffle. The ingredients just melt perfectly together. Then a salted unusually cooked burned salmon, followed by a mackerel with foie gras, green peas. As a main dish , I tasted halibut with asparagus that burned for few minutes to maintain the crunchiness. Every dish was so intense, so fresh and so herbal. No wonder why Chef Sobczyk is the ‘king of herbs… ’In the summer, Denmark is a foodies paradise with its festivals and gastronomic events Do not miss the Copenhagen Cooking & Food Festival from August 24th to September 2nd, during which Copenhagen becomes a huge Nordic restaurant and definitely stop at the new street food Reffen, an urban playground recently opened, that mixes crafts and culture. Reffen is a place where the people of Copenhagen are invited to take part in the development. 54 start-ups in the form of food stalls, bars and creative workshops many confirming the dogmas “Reduce and Reuse”. Mermaid yes or no? The most celebrated mermaid statue of The Little Mermaid from Hans Christian Andersen’s children’s story, sitting on a stone at Langelinie in the harbor of Copenhagen, Denmark. Honestly I saw her from the boat and I have to say that the invading ‘selfie addicted crowd’ didn’t appeal to me… So I went at night, and here she was, alone, shining on the dark, mysterious and looking like wanting to splash in the water any minute, That, I call a magic encounter with Miss Mermaid…for more info #visitdenmarkstories @govistdenmark. Posted in travel | Tagged Copenhagen | Leave a replyEditHamburg, Germany, Why go there and where to stay, what to eat Posted on I started my Hamburg experience with an avalanche of photos and selfies on board of the Stadtrundfahrt double-decker bus, providing earphones in all languages. In a couple of hours you’ll know the city, get off when you want, visit and get the next one. An indispensable tour, also in a mini-cruise version with Harbor CruiseYou will enjoy the aquatic view of the city, of the immense port and of the colossal cargo ships with gigantic containers. Hamburg means bricks, red bricks, so my next stop was Speicherstadt. Almost a kilometer of old warehouses with typical red bricks, used as storage for incoming goods: oriental carpets, tea, raw coffee, cocoa, tobacco, spices. Among the attractions: a kaffeerösterei, an old coffee roaster, where you can also enjoy decadent cakes with strawberries and cream. Chocoversum, a true chocolate triumph, Manufactum a trendy shop and the Spice Museum where you will find and taste everything: European spices, Asian and Indian flavors, exotic perfumes, 50 varieties of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, mustard seeds and the most expensive ones: orchid vanilla and saffron. Miniatur Wunderland Models of trains and landscapes in miniature? I was doubtful …well, I was amazed. Two huge floors where landscapes and cities of all the world have been meticulously reconstructed with airports, motorways, railways in great turmoil and crowded by a thousand minuscule people, including a team while washing Pope Francis car… Travel and read. 130 bookshops stocked with second hand books! Passengers are allowed not only to read them during their journey ,but also to take them home. Elbphilharmonie Extraordinary glass structure, with windows that look like eyes. With its perfect acoustic, hosts concerts and shows. You get there with a spectacular 82 meter escalator that runs through The Plaza, from which you can enjoy a great view. Perfect location for a drink or a snack at the Beer & Dine and a little shopping in the well-stocked book, music and souvenir store. Tickets can be booked 18 weeks in advance and children up to three years do not pay. Hamburg and its museums. I chose two. Kunsthalle, 700 years of art, from the great masters of the Renaissance until 1800 with Manet, Caspar David Friedrich, up to the German expressionism (which I adore) and the contemporary avant-garde . MKG Great museum with unusual exhibits: famous deco posters, precious vintage pianos, sketches and 30s dresses, a space dedicated to design furniture, photo galleries avant – garde and much more. It is true that the hamburger was born in Hamburg? The most famous meatball in the world is ‘made in the USA’ or ‘made in Hamburg’? The name would leave no doubt, but the Americans boast its paternity. The Germans claim that it was cooked in the houses of Hamburg and then it was exported to the USA, while for the Americans it would be born in the port of Hamburg, a municipality located in the state of New York and the inventors would have been the Menches brothers who in 1885 would propose the first sandwich stuffed with meat during the country festival Erie County Fair. Legends aside, here you will find space burgers. The best from Burger Lounge, Jim Block Jungfernstieg, Dulf’s Burger, Otto’s Burger Grindelhof and Schanze . WHERE TO STAY I tried two hotels, both experiences were great!
Novotel Hamburg City Alster Hotel 4-star hotel in the modern rooms and suites with a desk and free WIFI Central location and U-Bahn station on our doorstep make the Novotel Hamburg City Alster hotel the ideal base in Hamburg. 5-minutes away from Alster-Schwimmhalle and within 20 minutes of English Theatre Of Hamburg. Highlights at this hotel include in-room free WiFi, free high-speed Internet, and LCD TVs. All 210 soundproofed rooms feature sofa beds, satellite TV, and separate bathtubs and showers. You’ll find nice touches like soaking tubs and free toiletries to enhance your stay. Coffee/tea makers, free newspapers, and safes are also available. Enjoy the fitness centre, Turkish bath/hammam, and sauna. Business amenities include a meeting room and a business centre. Added amenities include free WiFi in public areas and laundry facilities. Each morning excellent buffet breakfast is served between 6:30 AM and 10:30 AM. Sights within a 20-minute walk of this 4-star Hamburg-Nord hotel include Museum of Arts and Crafts Hamburg and Mundsburg Center. Enjoy the comfort of the sauna and the video games area. Rooms are spacious and bright, Super comfy bed…I slept like a baby! Dining in is an option with room service, and minibars provide refreshments. I had a great lunch at the hotel stylish restaurant Novo2, and a nice chat with the executive Chef, who told me that his menu focuses on seasonal products and evergreen tasty meat. and suggested a juicy and tender La Maracho Rump Steak with sauteed vegetables and … a silver swan (just for decoration…) Novo2 is an innovative combination of a bar lounge , that offers delicious seasonal dishes and light snacks are served from 6.30am to 9.30pm. A cool spot where where you can have a nice glass of wine, like i did! INFO Luebecker Strasse 322087 HAMBURGGermanyHafenCity. It is the new futuristic district of Hamburg, area of creatives and artists, To get there they have specially built the metropolitan U4 line. in 3 stops from the center you have already arrived. Here you can breathe fresh air, the spaces are open and many Hamburgers get away from work to go for a drink or a snack. I stayed at the brand new 25 Hours HafenCityHotel where I had a great time. I felt like a sailor, the rooms look like a ship’s cabins, with prosperous painted models on the bathroom walls. Here atmosphere is easy and relaxed , The motto says COME AS YOU ARE! There is also free access to a spectacular spa in stones and wood. In the morning a rich buffet breakfast is set up, there you can find everything, including rotegruetze, my beloved raspberry, blueberry and cherry sauce served on lean yogurt. Yummy! What does a real Hamburger drink? Beer, of course! It has been produced in Hamburg for over a millennium and has become an icon of German culture. Here some popular ones. Ratsherrn, one of the city’s most famous artisan breweries From pilsner to light beers. Galopper des Jahres, popular and animated. The members of the staff are true fan of craft beer, so be sure to ask for their recommendations: they know what to suggest for every taste and palate. Blockbräu, a terrace with a wonderful view. My favorite? Altes Mädchen An incredible variety of excellent local and around 70 international beers, also combined with tasty German specialties.Remember, the real Hamburger does not drink Coca Cola! The preferred alternative is fritz-kola, rich in caffeine and lemon. It was born in 2002, invented almost for fun by young friends Lorenz and Mirco and produced with a really amateur process. Imagine: the labels were photocopies and they were glued by hand on the bottle … Today it is the national soft drink. Red lights … night and day!The St. Pauli district was once a bad area full of noisy pubs, frequented by criminals, sailors and prostitutes. Today the taverns have become artistic skyscrapers, like the Dancing Towers, which seem to really dance, while the smoky haunts of the past have become fashionable places. But the raunchy survived: sex shops, theaters, striptease, burlesque and the inevitable bouncers who invite you to enter. In addition to the ‘sensory’ attractions, the neighborhood is full of super-trendy shops, new boutiques, hip clubs and bars Keep walking around the St.Pauli district, head towards Markstrasse and the surroundings of KarolinenvIertel.There You will find small bars, self-managed restaurants, flowers, perfumes, mini boutiques and lots of vintage. If you are ‘bio’ dive into the Rider Markt Halle, and a relaxing drink from Zoe the bar of the different sofas. For more chic and exclusive products, head to Hole Bleichen.Then it comes the time for… beauty and relaxation.After a long walk, it is right to take a relaxing break in Jungfernstieg, in the heart of Hamburg with a fantastic view of the Alster river. Here Nivea Hausawaits for you, this is the official store of the famous face cream, born in Hamburg in 1929. Here you can find classic or brand new creams for face and body, cosmetics, revitalizing treatments, relaxing massages, as well as manicures and pedicures. Plus a really cute souvenir: your ‘Nivea’. You ‘ll be photographed and in a second …you’re on the cover of the famous blue box. I couldn’t resist … So, what do you think? Am I fine for a cream cover? Posted in travel | Tagged Hamburg | Leave a replyEditMATERA, Italy. The city, the Sassi and the best Lucanian dishes Posted on Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By day the sunlight enhances its white. At night, it looks like an immense nativity set up under the starry sky. Its quarter I Sassi, ancient dwellings dug into the tufo, where the roofs serve as a base for the houses that have developed on higher levels. These were dug entirely into the rock and represent one of the most striking examples of exploitation of natural resources to obtain suitable conditions for the life of a large community. In the caves often lived more families and despite the lack of space, almost all daily activities took place in the cavities of cave-houses: from handicrafts to weaving, from food storage to animal care (dogs, chicken, pigs, horses and donkeys were living with the family as primitive source of heating). The temperature was constant and guaranteed by the characteristics of the sea tufo , so the inhabitants did not suffer too much from the cold in winter and found a shelter from summer heat. This way of life for years has been seen as a sign of backwardness and incivility. The inhabitants of the Sassi were often considered as primitives living like animals. In 1952 Sassi was considered “the Italian national shame”and abandoned in the late ’50s, Sassi was able to be redeemed until they became Unesco World Heritage in and will be the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Its amazing scenario has been used s a set for Mel Gibson “The Passion” Pier Paolo Pasolini “The Gospel According to Matthew “King David”, Christ The Lord: Out of Egypt “, and the remake of “Ben-Hur “. I took the Gran Tourof Sassi, an intense 3 hours guided tour and I learn so much about the history of this amazing city. The tour begins in front of the Cathedral, in the upper part of the City, and then goes deeper into the tangle of narrow alleys, caves, cellars, churches, small gardens, tiny squares and districts. I was able to discover in detail these unusual dwellings partly carved out of the limestone. It s a long walk, so wear comfy shoes. Matera is also well now for its cooking tradition, a classic example of Italian peasant cuisine, using free ingredients combined with a fair amount of labor and know-how to turn an odd edible food into a delectable dish. Here my choices: ll Terrazzino View, ambience, real food, rich menu, moderate prices and …did I mentioned the view? Welcome to Il Terrazzino, one of the oldest deck restaurant in Sassi Eustachio Persia welcomed me with a dish of local cold cuts, including my fav lampascioni, bulbs of a common wildflower in southern Italy, then I ordered lamb, and…surprise! iIt came wrapped in yellow strawpaper. ‘This place used to be a cantina, told me Eustachio, just wine, no food.So people used to cook it at home and take it here, all wrapped up in paper tto keep it warm,then tear the bag and eat it paired with a nice glass of wine.Then came the crapiata a soup of different legumes, cereals and potatoes typical of the Basilicata cuisine of rural tradition, prepared in great quantity every year on the first day of August in the district La Martella, close to the cultivated fields and served to the inhabitants. Eustachio took me downstairs, to the 17 century cellar, which incorporates the typical architecture of the Sassi and was refurbished to retrace moments of daily life of the peasant life, Baccus Simple yet elegant restaurant Located in the Sassi area, Baccus is well know for its Chef Carlo Pozzuoli who likes to reinterpretate typical local dishes and flavors of the past in a modern way. Starting with super crunchy chips of red peppers, followed by fagots of ziti with cream of yellow and red peppers, bundled in a slice of sweet scamorza cheese topped by goat ricotta curlS. A soupy Dish with tagliolini pasta with black and white chickpeas, considered ideal fro pregnant women, since it contains a lot of iron. The menu dedicates an attentive search of local herbs, like the cicoriella, the sivone and other fresh leaves variously used in cooking: in salads, minestrone, simply boiled with oil and lemon, or as a filling of ravioli and pansotti or excellent omelettes. Carlo and his wife Mariella were wonderful hosts. Not only keeping me company at the table but also surprising me with a taste of a sweet heart shaped Sporcamuso, (begrime the face) a dessert so full of cream that I inevitably ended up with hot pastry cream all over my face. Da Mario ‘We represent the tradition. My family managed this restaurant since the 50’s’ told me Anna, owner of the popular Ristorante Pizzeria Da Mario ‘Since then we are always been loved by the people from Matera and from all over the world. Many celebrities have eaten here: Richard Gere, Mel Gibson just to mention few’ I went there for lunch and followed Anna’s suggestions, starting with a tasty orecchiette alle rape with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs, then I tried home made strascinati pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms and garnished with the typical crunchy peperone crusco, fried red pepper. Da Mario is know for its pizza. I tried a baby Margherita, perfectly cooked. ‘I love my town, peaceful and quiet, I run the restaurant a cosy BnB called Sassi Belvedere although sometimes I need some noise… some that’s why I have a place in Milan, where I go , like an escape little vacation, but then I am happy to be back in my Lucania ( the ancient name of Basilicata) Sorry I still call it Lucania.. perhaps it’s because I like the old things… I don’t blame her.. Where I stayed. Residence San Gennaro, located in the inner courtyard of the old “neighborhood”, once the fulcrum of the days of the inhabitants Super friendly host Francesco delighted me with anecdotes about the city, gave me tips took me to the prehistoric hypogeous cave below the residence, embellished with a precious Nativity and prepared a great breakfast that included fresh local products. I stayed in Guerricchio suite, that has a kitchenette, a delightful double bedroom, a private bathroom and a cute little balcony to enjoy the view on the enchanting Sassi of Matera. It is At the entrance an artistic work of great value welcomed me. “Girasoli di Guerricchio”, a Lucanian artist to whom the suite is dedicated. I also lovedCasa Noha An amazing gateway” to the city, charting its history thanks to an innovative communication project, where the walls, the ceilings and the floors will take to an extraordinary journey through the history of Matera from its origins to the present day. MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture Matera) This unique museum provides the perfect environment for the symbiosis of sculpture and the characteristic carved sites in the Sassi; the exhibition galleries, in fact, consist not only of the rooms of the Palazzo, but also the vast hypogea, where the works of art are revitalized by the strength and beauty of the surrounding rock hewn spaces Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Baccus, Basilicata, Da Mario, Il Terrazino, Matera, Sassi | Leave a replyEdit
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see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articleBOUTIQUE HOTEL CASA ANGELINA, AMALFI COAST by Cesare Zuccahttp://www.torrettas.comThree ‘Nobel’ days in Oslo Stay at the Grand Hotel 3 HOTELS ROOF TOPS you don’t want to miss by Cesare Zucca Discovering beautiful Poland POZNAN by Cesare Zucca INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Phnom Penh BEST ‘KIDS FRIENDLY’ MUSEUMS IN NEW YORK Children’s Museum of The Arts (103 Charlton St) invita all’arte, coinvolgendo i bambini in disinvolte classi di pittura, ceramica, scultura e musica. New York City Fire Museum (278 Spring St) organizza Safety Tour, una vera lezione sul fuoco con tanto di simulazione di incendio, dove un vigile newyorkese insegnerà le tecniche di salvataggio. Children’s Museum of Manhattan (212 West 83 St) è un immenso asilo stile Disneyland con cinque piani di attrazioni, giochi educativi, passatempi intelligenti e divertimento, daLet’s Dance, spazio interattivo dedicato ai bambini che amano ballare, a Art, Artists & You dove i piccoli si improvvisavo artisti . Natural History Museum (CPW/79 St) ospita The Butterfly Conservatory, una foresta con più di 500 farfalle da tutto il mondo. You just don’t realize how lucky you were when your join the guided 3,30-hour food tour organized by VisitLLjubljana.com managed by the Tourism Office of Ljubljana until you experience it. They offer numerous guided city tours including the Historical City Centre and Ljubljana Castlerevolving around history, art and landmarks, whether on foot, bicycle or on a boat cruising the river. There is no other way to sample the incredible diversity of Slovenian food in so little time and in such a fun and well-paced way. Slovenia is a small country yes, but it counts no less than 24 gastronomic regions. Ljubljana, reminding me of Paris in a way, is pretty much in the center of the country and, as a capital, has attracted many food vendors and restaurateurs to benefit from the largest concentration of population (and tourists) of the country. But, right off the bat, let me tell you that, at no point, do you feel shepherded to a pasture of touristic traps you would have found on your own. The choice is balanced between food shops and restaurants, clearly very carefully picked. Also, it isn’t a gorging party: at the end of the tour, you feel satiated, without ever feeling over full!. As all good cooking requests, things started with the sourcing of ingredients: the market! And Ljubljana is blessed, right in its center with a human sized, yet substantial farmer’s market, with one section dedicated to only certified organic vendors. I had noticed on my way to the tour some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms, as well as yellow broad beans that I had never encountered before. Lucky enough, I was able to find them again and was met with the most charming smile the seller could have shared. Then, we got to visit the permanent covered market, a beautiful building along the riverbank. That was like entering a world of its own. Gorgeous charcuterie, cheeses, breads (got a loaf of this dark and dense bread, yet moist and oh! so tasty). A separate section is dedicated to fish, perhaps for temperature and odor control. Whatever the reason might be, I was really impressed by the display of fish available and the absence actually of any strong fishy smell. Slovenia is known mainly as an inland country, but it does have a little bit of coast on the Adriatic Sea and they sure know how to source the best of what can come out of it. Everything looked so fresh, a real temptation for any cook. But carrying fish on ice for the rest of the tour was NOT going to happen! We met our lovely guide Simona in Ciril-Metodov, the cobblestoned main street. She took us at Klòbasarna, where we had the first tasting: a warm smoked sausage form the Carniola region just South of Austria, in other words at the Northern end of Slovenia. Made of the finest pieces of pork, this sausage neither greasy nor too dry, just hit the spot accompanied by a light red wine, a little horseradish and mustard which I loved. Simona took us in more that 7 venues, specialized in different specialties, from the syrups and the honeys of Dobrote-Dolenjske, to the traditional cake prekmurska gibanica homemade at GujzinaI won’t be going in the detail of all the things tasted, either in gastronomic shops or in restaurants… I want you to go and experience it for yourself. Besides beef tongue, fried chicken, honey (Slovenia is Europe’s largest producer per capita), my heart will go for this humble dish of mashed potatoes with sautéed onions and bits of bacon that we tasted at a very special restaurant, Druga Violina, where all the members of the staff suffer from some form of disability or another. It felt really good to contribute to this effort to support the community and, let’s be frank, it also tasted soooo good, just by itself. With influences coming from all neighboring countries (Italy, Austria, Hungry and Croatia), tucked between sea, plains, forests and mountains, the small country of Slovenia is rich of diversity and, if this three-hour tour cannot cover everything, it sure serves as the best introduction one can hope to taste in this timeframe! Tours priced at 52€ everything included, To make a reservation For more infowww.visitLjubljana.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Food Tour, Ljubljana, prekmurska gibanica, Tourism Office of Ljubljana | Leave a replyEditGRAND HOTEL TOPLICE, JULIJANA RESTAURANT IN BLED, SLOVENIA Posted on Slovenia. Bled, about an hour North of the capital Ljubljana to the North-West of Slovenia. Rather than the town it is the beautiful lake that gives the name Bled, famous among the European elite as early as the 1930’s with the construction of a luxurious hotel providing natural hot spring source knowned for health benefits.I am talking of the Grand Hotel Toplice, a venue that boasts a rich history, a magical location, gorgeous alpine and lake views and sumptuously comfortable, elegantly styled rooms. Each of the rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Toplice has its own unique character and are traditionally styled with beautiful parquet floors, rich furniture and beautiful paintings with many of the rooms benefiting from breathtakingly beautiful lake views. The hotel has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory and is one of the best hotels in Slovenia as well as being a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection. It has hosted many eminent guests and is frequented by celebrities such as Vivian Leigh, Arthur Miller, Pablo Neruda, King Hussein of Jordan, Paul McCartney and…me, with my best friend-chef-writer Philip Sinsheimer, graciously hosted by Sava hotel and resort group that manage the venue. Starting from the impeccable reception. the hotel boasts luxurious accommodation, few restaurant, a bar and the enchantment of Lake Bled. All rooms and suites are individually decorated in an enchanting and traditional style, lavishly equipped with an excellent range of facilities, a relaxing thermal swimming pool and benefit from different saunas, wellness services and a solarium among a private lido, where Philip (expert swimmer) dived in the limpid lake water while me (lazy man…) was indulging in a relaxing sunbathing. We dedicated the morning ( when the light is best) to row to the island where the minuscule baroque chapel.I was anxious to hear the bells rings, because I knew about the legend wich narrates that around the year 1500, the leaseholder of Lake Bled at the time, Hartman Kreigh, disappeared. People said he was killed. Sad for the events, the Lady of the Castle collected all of her precious golden jewellery to be melted down and casted into a bell for the chapel on the island of the Lake, so that the bell would toll in remembrance of beloved companion. They say the bell has a magic power, when it rings, you should make 3 wishes and wait for them to become real. We did 99 steps and finally we arrived at the church, where the view is really breathtaking and, yes, we waited for the bell… Not sure my wishes are becoming a reality, we ll see…. A true wish coming true was the splendid dinner we were invited for dinner at Julijana Restaurant where Chef Bertoncelj prepared a great dinner. I leave Philip the privilege of writing about it, since he is a chef and a food blogger. GRANDE CUISINE BY THE LAKE This historic landmark now called the Grand Hotel Toplice, operated by the Sava hotel and resort group, has managed to preserve the relics of the past with grand salons adorned with memorabilia pictures and bring all the comfort of modernity at the same time.This delicate balance between past was brilliantly reflected in the cuisine of the executive chef Simon Bertoncelj and the whole crew under him. Having dinner at the gastronomic JulijanaRestaurant, especially if the weather allows to eat al fresco facing the lake is a moment of bliss: the quality of service, attention to detail and classic decor evoke a certain respect of classical elegance. This doesn’t constrain the cuisine to old classics, and the chef’s creativity and modern techniques seem to find their place very naturally in this elegant environment. The mise en bouche consisting of a delicately baked oyster and a buttery giant shrimp had all the signs of what you can expect in a palace restaurant: prime quality ingredients simply treated. This seafood opening was in synch with the view of the water even though it wasn’t the sea. As I were to learn later by the chef, unfortunately, as beautiful as it is, the lake doesn’t often yield the quantity of fish needed to take place on the menu. The mushroom cappuccino with porcini had the depth of flavor one can only get in top notch restaurants, served piping hot but adorned with the freshness of a few micro greens scattered on top rather than the old habit of a dollop of cream and a few chives. Fresh too was the vitello tonnato inspired salad, bright and lively. Here, as in all the great restaurants experienced in Slovenia, the wine list paid homage to the country’s fine wines, such as the 2017Verus Chardonnay from Stajerska, the western part of the Podravje region in the North of the country. At last a chardonnay that can showcase both concentration of flavors and freshness in the palate with a mere 13° alcohol content.The shining fish course was a thick and moist turbot filet, perfectly cooked and adorned by a beautiful composition of vegetables and foamy grapefruit sauce. Here again: classic base and modern composition. Though generous, nothing was heavy, and the beautiful matured saddle of veal served pink with a herb crust was still welcome. To finish, the iconic Bled Cream Cake, which recipe goes back to 1953 and is secretly kept by the Sava hotels group. The result was up to the legend. Even though I really do not have much of a sweet tooth, and I have had my share of mille-feuilles in France, this raised version of the classic with just two layers of perfectly crisp puffed pastry holding a firm custard covered by a layer of lighter whipped cream is to die for… Chef Simon Bertoncelj, who has worked under the commands of Gordon Ramsey, seems rather poised and discreet, but if you really want to find out, he opens his kitchen to a guest table of 2 to 6 people for a 7-course menu cooked and served, right before their eyes…and ears! For more info Julijana Restaurant Grand Hotel Toplice Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenia +386 4 579 10 00 Contact Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenija Reception +386 4 579 10 00 ghtoplice@hotelibled.com Reservations +386 4 579 16 00 info@hotelibled.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Bed, chef Simon Bertoncelj, Grand Hotel Toplice, Juljiana Restaurant, Slovenia | Leave a replyEditHotel Hellsten, Stockholm. Memories of an exotic journey Posted on Hotel Hellsten is located in the heart of Stockholm and is the ideal starting point for all those who are visiting the City, since the attractions and sites of interest are reachable by public transport within easy reach including the subway that is just round the corner. The next street is the busy Sveavägen, Stockholm”s only real boulevard. The hotel is just around the corner from the underground (metro) stop Rådmansgatan. The locality is one of the most exciting in Stockholm, with a multitude of different restaurants within a few minutes walking distance. It is also a short walk from Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic and beautiful old town. I loved the area, and the next busy street Sveavägen, so alive and full of restaurants, shops and…barbers & haidressers,don’t ask me why, but very useful… The rooms are divided into various types depending on the services they offer, mostly in different styles, some have canopy bed, some are equipped with the classic Swedish fireplace called kakelugnar, light rays, wooden panels, even a private sauna, The walls are painted with warm colors that span from orange to red, to blue, to purple. All rooms have private new bathrooms, TV, telephone, free wired internet access and a hairdryer. They are non-smoking as well as the entire structure. My room had a cosy little terrace. Here and there I found exotic touches, my guide explained that Mr.Hellsten, owner of Hellsten, Rex and the newest Hellsten Glashus, is an enthusiastic traveller who likes to collect items from his trips. I loved the african masks ! You have a colonial-style bar where coffee and tea are served 24 hours for free. Great idea! Every Thursday Hellsten Earth Bar transforms into one of Stockholm’s premier jazz venues. Exciting live acts on stage at 8pm and on the last Thursday of each month you are welcome to jam with the band, just bring your instruments or vocals, and the entrance is free.. Comfy beds and an excellent breakfast buffet that included pancakes, cold cuts, cheeses, eggs, lots of fruits and the traditional Swedish meatballs and served in a sunny and spacious veranda. Add Hotel Hellsten on your next trip to Stockholm! For more info http://hellsten.se/en/Hotel_Hellsten Posted in travel | Tagged Hotel Hellsten, Stockholm | Leave a replyEditIndustrial or design? A posh stay in Hamburg Posted on In my last trip to Hamburg I got the chance to visit and stay in Hotel Gastwerk and The George, two great properties owned by Fortune Hotels Group. They have different style and decor, both friendly, welcoming and worth to spend one (or few) nights there.Let’s start with the industrial red bricks Gastwerk. The name says it all, It was a squared and rigorous red bricks gas factory. Roughly 120 years ago, the old gas plant provided light to the streets and houses in West Hamburg. In the impressive and carefully restored industrial building, built with brick and steel, modern design and historical architecture form a fascinating harmonic setting. Gastwerk is first Hamburg’s design hotel. The building welcomed me with a large hall with a wide, meticulously well lighted reception and two unforgettable metal elevators, one red and one yellow lighted. The industrial adventure was already starting… 141 rooms, lofts and suites, some with modern walls with a contemporary feeling, some with bricks walls (I love them), like the loft-like one where I was staying, giving the perfect atmosphere of and warehouse. In addition to that Gastwerk boasts a configurable conference area, the Mangold restaurant (I didn’t dine there, so no idea of the food) the L.BAR, the beautiful SPA, free parking spaces in front of the hotel and underground. Here and there you’ll discover classy touches of fresh flowers, old black and white pictures, original gas machines, and a splendid old water boiler. The second Fortune Hotel is The George, located in the hearth of the vibrant Saint George area. This venue is a triumphant tribute to the apotheosis of a ‘boutique hotel’ concept, where design meets furniture, lighting and that smell of trendyness… This reinterpretation of English style in Hamburg results in rooms swathed in warm colors ranging from cocoa to Champagne, lamps with delightful pleated shades and stylish wallpaper in a variety of designs. Super comfy mattresses, a nice view of the Lake Alster, not to mention that sweet & cute ‘Welcome Cesare’… The George Hotel is a four-pearl property flush with a Great-Britain-in-the-’60s design, with 125 stylish rooms that all have flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free weight, a party-vibe bar, the supercool rooftop Campari Lounge in the terrace with a spectacular view of the Alster, a defined breakfast buffet that included a fine selection of cold cuts, imported cheeses, fruits and vegetables, and… Yes! there is Da Caio, italian restaurant (where I could not resist peeping at the menu, which I found correct in dishes choices and…right spelling, which is always a good sign for an Italian eating in an Italian restaurant abroad… Here info Hotel Gastwerk The George, Fortune Hotels Group. Posted in travel | Tagged Da Caio, Fortune Hotels Group, Gastwerk Hotel, Hamburg, The George Hotel | Leave a replyEditTwo memorable days in Pula Posted on Great history, mild climate, smooth sea, unspoiled nature, dream beaches, friendly locals, smiling people, amazing food and…best teeth on hearth! Welcome to Croatia!I spent only two days in Pula, but, believe me , I ‘ll go back!. Pula is the largest town on the Istrian peninsula and offers a diversity of attractions to lovers of culture. The rich itinerary of its three thousand year old history, where every step you take through the Old Town is a landmark, begins and ends with the Roman amphitheatre. The city has a long tradition of winemaking, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism. The Arena. Pula’s amphitheater was built around the end of the first century before Christ. It was August with a very hot weather. That s why my lovely guide Rossana met me there early in the morning , immediately after they open the gate. I suggest you to do the same. Rossana told me a quite cute legend about a raw linen made tent (they called it velarium) that used to be opened up to protect from the sun and give some shade to the audience while watching the show, or function as a bug umbrella in case of rain. Actually the morning is he best time to come to the arena as well the sunset time. Often the Arena hosts operas, concerts and performances. The acoustic is amazing: Tenors Giorgio Pavarotti, Placido Domingo and Beniamino Gigli said the this place was one of the most suitable for their voice and for the public. In the Arena have been performing great music legends such as Tina Turner, Joe Cocker, Sting, Simply Red, Robert Plant, Status Quo, Massive Attack, just to mention few. Every summer, Pula host a superb Film Festival in the Arena, Celebrity town. Pula was also the residence of many Italian celebrities, from Italian singer Sergio Endrigo, to Italian actress Alida Valli who was celebrated as one of the most beautiful woman in the he world.Pula girls! The legacy of Alida Valli keeps the tradition. Beauty, charme, and those beautiful legs, so famous all over the world, make the local girls into dreamgirls ! Writer James Joyce choose Pula as his residency for several years. After a full day of historical sightseeing you will find many coffee shops on the street Forum including Café Uliks is a must for any fans of James Joyce, the Irish author who worked in Pula as a teacher in the early 20th century.Wines and foodWines top quality wines including Malvasia (one of my favorites) the most famous Istrian wines produced from indigenous white grapes. and Teran, a rich red wine, intensely purple colored, able to compet with the Italian ones but less expensive. A big time specialty is the zgvacet ragout. It is a sauce of diced chunks of chicken meat. In Pula, just as in most towns of Istria, be sure to taste seafood specialties, of which dishes rospi (monkfish), sea bass or delicious buzara Kvarner scampi only a small number of delicacies on offer. In Pula you should try and shells, thanks to the clear waters are a special flavor mussels, scallops or kanaštrele excellent fish stew, and definitely should try the black risotto with cuttlefish. Lovers of oily fish to taste anchovies to savor. This dish is eaten cold and fried sardines topped with sauce, oil, onion, vinegar and spices.In Pula you should try and maneštras traditional thick soup whose main ingredients are potatoes and beans with added mixture of bacon and garlic. Truffles! Many Pula’s restaurants carry the highlight of gastronomy: the white truffles. Try them with fusi or gnocchi with truffles or shaved over meat or cheese. But the real combo, the Romeo and Juliet of the choiche should be truffles and eggs!Bars, shops, market and flea marketsHave fun, look around, bargain! Smile!Dental tourism, is hot in Croatia, organized groups come here and put their teeth in place with low-budget, cheaper prices, excellent quality, good materials and expert dentist. How to contact them who contact them? Or you can see on the websites or call the local tourist agency that will give you advice on the best places or to be so lucky to have a friend who has already been here already. Do not! Croatia has its own currency: the kuna. Don’t change your money in the street, you may get useless Balcanian or Bulgarian money… Go into a bank and change there!Where to stay I stayed atAmfiteatar Hotel, located in the heart of the Pula city, hotel Amphitheater is at a 2 minutes walking distance to the Arena and 5 minutes walking distance to the city cathedral, with the harbor also in the close vicinity. Beach and the airport are only 10 minutes away by car. Very close to the arena and within a short walking distance to all the other attractions in the old town. I had dinner in the outdoor restaurant, Owner Chef and culinary star Deniz Zembo prepared delicious local dishes with a twist. I loved the grilled octopuss and delicious cake. I would like to thank the lovely ladies Viviana Vukelic and Adriana Bajic from Ente Nazionale Croato per il Turismo in Milan and the super cool Goran from the Tourism Office in Pula, Chef Deniz Zembo and my amazing guide Rossana. They truly contributed to make my Pula’s visit memorable,fun and wonderful. For more info ENTE NAZIONALE CROATO PER IL TURISMO https://croatia.hr/en-GB TOURISM OFFICE PULA http://www.pulainfo.hr/Hacienda Chichen: discover the most revered Mayan site the smart way!Chichen Itza, located inland of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 200 km East of Cancun, is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Mexico with over 2.6 million tourists in 2017. Do the math… .That’s on average over 7000 visitors a day. Even though the site is not limited to the iconic Kukulcàn pyramid (photo 1) and covers a very large area (over 300 hectares), that is a lot of human flesh roaming around! Especialy when one considers that the most popular way to visit the Unesco world heritage site is via tour operators organizing day trips from Cancun or Merida, creating a huge influx of fully loaded buses arriving around 11 AM or so every day. Arriving with the sun at its hottest among hordes of tourists had always been a deterring idea to me. I had sacrificed the visit of wholly site during my passed 3 visits of Yucatan, favoring the ruins of Tulum and Cuba, less crowded and still awesome examples of the might and splendor of the Mayan civilization. For this fourth visit this last spring, I was determined to visit the legendary Chichen Itza in the best way possible. Staying overnight at the Hacienda Chichen revealed to be the smartest answer possible. Smart because by staying overnight in this historic hotel located a few hundred feet from the archeological site enables to start exploring the grounds as early as 8 AM, before the arrival of the crowds. Smart, because the hotel combines genuine elegance and great service while respecting authenticity and ecological responsibility. Follow me, let me show you the way…When I arrived from Tulum around noon at the Chichen Itza bus terminal, I was left at the main entrance of the site in one of the largest parking lots I have ever seen: hundreds of buses still unloading their loads of tourists from every continent. The line to the ticket booth was long, the heat dreadful. Instead of joining the frenzy, I hopped in a cab and 10 minutes later, I was discovering the old-world charm of the Hacienda Chichen. The check in was a breeze and the welcoming cocktail made of pineapple and Chaya leaf juice refreshing as heaven (pic 3). I was later to learn that it had been freshly made from the organic garden of the property, providing a lot of the fruits, vegetables and herbs used by the kitchen The front desk offered to arrange the purchase of my ticket to visit the site the next morning, without any surcharge, avoiding the hassle to wait in line. They also offered the possibility to have a legitimate private guide for the visit, but as usual, I declined in order to feel totally free and visit at my own pace. The afternoon was mine to relax and enjoy what the Hacienda had to offer. The 28 rooms set in a total of 12 cottages spread out on the lush grounds were originally built to host archeologists who helped excavate the site. Now they are opened to all offering soothing air conditioning, large bed, beautiful sheets, large bathrooms, fresh flowers and hammocks on the front porch for those eager to adopt the Mayan way to take a nap at the sound of singing birds Another way to relax in a horizontal way is to indulge in one of the treatments at the Yaxkin spa. And that’s exactly what I did, with the 45-minute Pakal treatment, a Maya healing ritual focusing on the head and the upper body. The soul is also soothed by an initial prayer in Mayan language by my charming therapist. I loved the fact that the room was very large, not one of those cubicles where on feels locked up. The outside garden was present in the room with the use of various herbs and plants, including a refreshing aloe vera jelly applied on the face.Totally relaxed, I finished the afternoon by lingering by the superb swimming pool, large and square as I like them to do laps at length. .Recycled and chemical-free water added a guilt free sensation to the overall pleasure. Time went by and before I knew it was time to meet the general manager for a grand tour of the property, including the restored church where weddings can be organized, surrounded by the beautifully maintained vegetation). No wedding the evening of my stay, but I still felt like a very special person, enjoying an evening drink on the beautiful front patio at the sound of a traditional trio singing deep from the heart local ballads. For dinner, I ventured across the street to the humbler Villas Areological hotel (http://www.villasarqueologicas.com.mx/chichen-itza.html) that I wanted to check out for its restaurant serving a variety of traditional dishes from Yucatan. The best, by far, was the cream of Chaya soup and I appreciated the selection of Mexican wines. The night was young, but the day had been long, so I was eager to return to my beautiful room for a good night sleep. At 8:20 Am, I recuperated my ticket to visit the site and was guided to the private entrance specific to the Hacienda. I was alone when I crossed the gate and after a ten-minute walk, I was facing the beautiful Mayan pyramid with the company of a couple of iguanas, but not another human soul. The morning air was cool, and the silence only broken by singing birds. All the merchants on the way were focused on unpacking their things, leaving me unburdened. Besides the famous pyramid, I loved walking through the gigantic ball game field practically alone As well as discovering the sacred cenote (sinkhole) and the perfectly aligned columns without the eye sore of groups of tourists ruining the geometry of the monuments. After three hours of walking at my own pace, I went back to the Hacienda, walking against the growing flow of visitors and the solicitations of the souvenir vendors, they were in full swing mode, trying to sell their T-shirts and miniature statues probably made in China! The heat had risen and a last dip in the pool after a refreshing outdoor shower felt like pure bliss. At noon I was packed and ready to leave this magical place. A short taxi ride took me to the small town of Piste where I tasted a delicious and original pozole de coco, lightly sweetened and perfectly chilled (pic 20), then hopped on a collective to reach Valladolid after 24 hours of total serenity, visiting the most famous Mayan site in the best way possible… the nontouristytourist way! Text and photos by Philip Sinsheimer HACIENDA CHICHEN RESORT AND YAXKIN SPAhttp://www.haciendachichen.comTel: +52 999 920 8407 Posted in travel | Tagged Chichen Itza, Mexico | Leave a replyEditA ‘HYGGE’SUMMER IN COPENHAGEN Posted on In summer Copenhagen is an ideal destination: favorable weather, long and sunny days, smiling, polite and serene people. It seems that everyone here discovers the secret of happiness: hygge, a Danish word that invites you to enjoy the simple pleasures of life and live alone or with friends, at home or outside, special and happy moments. Find yourself singing on the beach around a bonfire, have a nice picnic at the park, attend an outdoor concert, participate in a street festival or take a bike ride … these and more are the little pleasures of life that feed the hygge spirit in the life of the Danes. To find out right away just do this test . The result is a real personalized treatment based on hygge, released with all the tips on how to get it on a trip to Denmark. Useful and precious, a true friend! I’m talking about the Copenhagen Card, a pass that allows you to visit as many as 86 museums and attractions, use all public transportation for free and benefit from discounts on tours, bars and restaurants. I also used it for a tour of the canals and the port. 1 hour, audiogude in all languages, a show of ancient and modern architecture, a sea of photos. passing the numerous bridges of the city. But pay attention to be seated: the bridges are very low and the risk to bump your head on it, it s quite possible. Tivoli The oldest playground in the world. You will skip over breathtaking roller coasters,you will be projected into space, you will remain suspended in the air more than a thousand other rides in the charming gardens where the oriental facade of beautiful Hotel Nimb stands out. After the aerial acrobatics, I finally relaxed in the Brasserie, famous Nimb restaurant, French cuisine, refined menu, excellent wine list, good service and relaxing atmosphere (apart from the crowded side room that celebrated a noisy birthday…) I tasted the Chef’s specialties, a delicate mollusk bisque served with scampi and carrots, a crunchy turbot à la meunière, sprinkled with lemon drops, ending with a puff pastry stuffed with strawberries and cream, all paired to my favorite Sancerre Domaine de La Garenne, deliciously fruity, In short, a dinner worthy of the unique atmosphere of the location. Copenhagen history boasts of royalties and magnificent castles,Here my favorites Amalienborg Palace, a must for anyone with a taste for royal history and the life of Denmark’s royal family who still resides inside the palace. Experience royal history at the museum and sense the present of one of the world’s oldest monarchies from the beautiful palace square where you can watch the changing of its famous guards called Den Kongelige Livgarde. Every day you can experience the changing of the guards, as they march from their barracks in 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and end up at Amalienborg, where the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon. Christiansborg Palace famous for its hall covered with 17 giant tapestries, which tell 1000 years of Danish history, It is a gift from The Danish business community in occasion of Her Majesty Queen Margrethe 50th birthday,. Bjørn Nørgaard painted the full-size sketches upon which the tapestries were woven. These impressive royal rooms host the official receptions in the presence of the Queen, between a sparkle of uniforms and great evening gowns. Better to avoid arriving by car or taxi, the protocol prefers that the guests present themselves in a carriage… As a food lover, I could not resist the temptation to descend into the legendary Royal Kitchens to discover the background of an official banquet, browse the Queen’s recipes and admire one of the largest collections of copper crockery in Europe. To be or not to be… I recommend a small excursion outside the city. Helsingør 30 minutes by train. The famous Castle of Kronborg, better known as Hamlet’s house, reigns there. In fact, here Shakespeare set his drama. Gossips say that the writer had never been there, but would have been an actor in his company to tell him about this mighty fortress, from whose park, littered with cannons, you can glimpse Sweden. Suddenly the walls resound with the voices of the characters of Hamlet, which appear, like ghosts, perfectly interpreted by talented actors who bring to life the tragic events of the drama, You could spend a whole day in Kronborg, and live many experiences, guided tours through the casemates and the halls, explore the passages and towers, see a play and relax admiring the sea – but if you prefer, you can get an idea Kronborg concrete even in just one hour. Kronborg is open all year round (except 1st January, 24th, 25th and 31st December) from 11am to 4pm. In the summer (June, July and August) the schedule is extended: from 10.30am to 5.30pm. After all that drama I needed a…great meal and I went to the renowned restaurant Brasserie 1861, where I met the Chef. His name is Casper StuhrSobczyk I can describe him as a gentle viking with the sweetest smile and… smoked sardines tattooed in his arm. They called him ‘the king of herbs ‘for his passion for vegetables and fresh products from the field. His passions are: fish, molluscs, entrails as lamb’s brain, (not so popular in the quite skeptic Northern Europe), He started with French cuisine, passed to the molecular and ended up with mixing them two styles. ‘I like to play with the ingredients, says Casper, like for example, pairing strawberries to balsamic vinegar. I worked in Danmark a lot, including the Copenhagen National Library. I got good reviews and I started my new adventure here at Marienlyst Hotel, In my my fridge at home, there is always place for eggs, probably because my wife loves them, lot of vegetables and of course several max sizei Pepsi. I Love Pepsi… ‘His friendly Verona born partner Fabio Ciccarelli started serving a surprising appetizer: a revolutionary version of the traditional blini, made with caviar white sturgeon, to be mixed to crème fraiche on herbal waffle. The ingredients just melt perfectly together. Then a salted unusually cooked burned salmon, followed by a mackerel with foie gras, green peas. As a main dish , I tasted halibut with asparagus that burned for few minutes to maintain the crunchiness. Every dish was so intense, so fresh and so herbal. No wonder why Chef Sobczyk is the ‘king of herbs… ’In the summer, Denmark is a foodies paradise with its festivals and gastronomic events Do not miss the Copenhagen Cooking & Food Festival from August 24th to September 2nd, during which Copenhagen becomes a huge Nordic restaurant and definitely stop at the new street food Reffen, an urban playground recently opened, that mixes crafts and culture. Reffen is a place where the people of Copenhagen are invited to take part in the development. 54 start-ups in the form of food stalls, bars and creative workshops many confirming the dogmas “Reduce and Reuse”. Mermaid yes or no? The most celebrated mermaid statue of The Little Mermaid from Hans Christian Andersen’s children’s story, sitting on a stone at Langelinie in the harbor of Copenhagen, Denmark. Honestly I saw her from the boat and I have to say that the invading ‘selfie addicted crowd’ didn’t appeal to me… So I went at night, and here she was, alone, shining on the dark, mysterious and looking like wanting to splash in the water any minute, That, I call a magic encounter with Miss Mermaid…for more info #visitdenmarkstories @govistdenmark. Posted in travel | Tagged Copenhagen | Leave a replyEditHamburg, Germany, Why go there and where to stay, what to eat Posted on I started my Hamburg experience with an avalanche of photos and selfies on board of the Stadtrundfahrt double-decker bus, providing earphones in all languages. In a couple of hours you’ll know the city, get off when you want, visit and get the next one. An indispensable tour, also in a mini-cruise version with Harbor CruiseYou will enjoy the aquatic view of the city, of the immense port and of the colossal cargo ships with gigantic containers. Hamburg means bricks, red bricks, so my next stop was Speicherstadt. Almost a kilometer of old warehouses with typical red bricks, used as storage for incoming goods: oriental carpets, tea, raw coffee, cocoa, tobacco, spices. Among the attractions: a kaffeerösterei, an old coffee roaster, where you can also enjoy decadent cakes with strawberries and cream. Chocoversum, a true chocolate triumph, Manufactum a trendy shop and the Spice Museum where you will find and taste everything: European spices, Asian and Indian flavors, exotic perfumes, 50 varieties of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, mustard seeds and the most expensive ones: orchid vanilla and saffron. Miniatur Wunderland Models of trains and landscapes in miniature? I was doubtful …well, I was amazed. Two huge floors where landscapes and cities of all the world have been meticulously reconstructed with airports, motorways, railways in great turmoil and crowded by a thousand minuscule people, including a team while washing Pope Francis car… Travel and read. 130 bookshops stocked with second hand books! Passengers are allowed not only to read them during their journey ,but also to take them home. Elbphilharmonie Extraordinary glass structure, with windows that look like eyes. With its perfect acoustic, hosts concerts and shows. You get there with a spectacular 82 meter escalator that runs through The Plaza, from which you can enjoy a great view. Perfect location for a drink or a snack at the Beer & Dine and a little shopping in the well-stocked book, music and souvenir store. Tickets can be booked 18 weeks in advance and children up to three years do not pay. Hamburg and its museums. I chose two. Kunsthalle, 700 years of art, from the great masters of the Renaissance until 1800 with Manet, Caspar David Friedrich, up to the German expressionism (which I adore) and the contemporary avant-garde . MKG Great museum with unusual exhibits: famous deco posters, precious vintage pianos, sketches and 30s dresses, a space dedicated to design furniture, photo galleries avant – garde and much more. It is true that the hamburger was born in Hamburg? The most famous meatball in the world is ‘made in the USA’ or ‘made in Hamburg’? The name would leave no doubt, but the Americans boast its paternity. The Germans claim that it was cooked in the houses of Hamburg and then it was exported to the USA, while for the Americans it would be born in the port of Hamburg, a municipality located in the state of New York and the inventors would have been the Menches brothers who in 1885 would propose the first sandwich stuffed with meat during the country festival Erie County Fair. Legends aside, here you will find space burgers. The best from Burger Lounge, Jim Block Jungfernstieg, Dulf’s Burger, Otto’s Burger Grindelhof and Schanze . WHERE TO STAY I tried two hotels, both experiences were great!
Novotel Hamburg City Alster Hotel 4-star hotel in the modern rooms and suites with a desk and free WIFI Central location and U-Bahn station on our doorstep make the Novotel Hamburg City Alster hotel the ideal base in Hamburg. 5-minutes away from Alster-Schwimmhalle and within 20 minutes of English Theatre Of Hamburg. Highlights at this hotel include in-room free WiFi, free high-speed Internet, and LCD TVs. All 210 soundproofed rooms feature sofa beds, satellite TV, and separate bathtubs and showers. You’ll find nice touches like soaking tubs and free toiletries to enhance your stay. Coffee/tea makers, free newspapers, and safes are also available. Enjoy the fitness centre, Turkish bath/hammam, and sauna. Business amenities include a meeting room and a business centre. Added amenities include free WiFi in public areas and laundry facilities. Each morning excellent buffet breakfast is served between 6:30 AM and 10:30 AM. Sights within a 20-minute walk of this 4-star Hamburg-Nord hotel include Museum of Arts and Crafts Hamburg and Mundsburg Center. Enjoy the comfort of the sauna and the video games area. Rooms are spacious and bright, Super comfy bed…I slept like a baby! Dining in is an option with room service, and minibars provide refreshments. I had a great lunch at the hotel stylish restaurant Novo2, and a nice chat with the executive Chef, who told me that his menu focuses on seasonal products and evergreen tasty meat. and suggested a juicy and tender La Maracho Rump Steak with sauteed vegetables and … a silver swan (just for decoration…) Novo2 is an innovative combination of a bar lounge , that offers delicious seasonal dishes and light snacks are served from 6.30am to 9.30pm. A cool spot where where you can have a nice glass of wine, like i did! INFO Luebecker Strasse 322087 HAMBURGGermanyHafenCity. It is the new futuristic district of Hamburg, area of creatives and artists, To get there they have specially built the metropolitan U4 line. in 3 stops from the center you have already arrived. Here you can breathe fresh air, the spaces are open and many Hamburgers get away from work to go for a drink or a snack. I stayed at the brand new 25 Hours HafenCityHotel where I had a great time. I felt like a sailor, the rooms look like a ship’s cabins, with prosperous painted models on the bathroom walls. Here atmosphere is easy and relaxed , The motto says COME AS YOU ARE! There is also free access to a spectacular spa in stones and wood. In the morning a rich buffet breakfast is set up, there you can find everything, including rotegruetze, my beloved raspberry, blueberry and cherry sauce served on lean yogurt. Yummy! What does a real Hamburger drink? Beer, of course! It has been produced in Hamburg for over a millennium and has become an icon of German culture. Here some popular ones. Ratsherrn, one of the city’s most famous artisan breweries From pilsner to light beers. Galopper des Jahres, popular and animated. The members of the staff are true fan of craft beer, so be sure to ask for their recommendations: they know what to suggest for every taste and palate. Blockbräu, a terrace with a wonderful view. My favorite? Altes Mädchen An incredible variety of excellent local and around 70 international beers, also combined with tasty German specialties.Remember, the real Hamburger does not drink Coca Cola! The preferred alternative is fritz-kola, rich in caffeine and lemon. It was born in 2002, invented almost for fun by young friends Lorenz and Mirco and produced with a really amateur process. Imagine: the labels were photocopies and they were glued by hand on the bottle … Today it is the national soft drink. Red lights … night and day!The St. Pauli district was once a bad area full of noisy pubs, frequented by criminals, sailors and prostitutes. Today the taverns have become artistic skyscrapers, like the Dancing Towers, which seem to really dance, while the smoky haunts of the past have become fashionable places. But the raunchy survived: sex shops, theaters, striptease, burlesque and the inevitable bouncers who invite you to enter. In addition to the ‘sensory’ attractions, the neighborhood is full of super-trendy shops, new boutiques, hip clubs and bars Keep walking around the St.Pauli district, head towards Markstrasse and the surroundings of KarolinenvIertel.There You will find small bars, self-managed restaurants, flowers, perfumes, mini boutiques and lots of vintage. If you are ‘bio’ dive into the Rider Markt Halle, and a relaxing drink from Zoe the bar of the different sofas. For more chic and exclusive products, head to Hole Bleichen.Then it comes the time for… beauty and relaxation.After a long walk, it is right to take a relaxing break in Jungfernstieg, in the heart of Hamburg with a fantastic view of the Alster river. Here Nivea Hausawaits for you, this is the official store of the famous face cream, born in Hamburg in 1929. Here you can find classic or brand new creams for face and body, cosmetics, revitalizing treatments, relaxing massages, as well as manicures and pedicures. Plus a really cute souvenir: your ‘Nivea’. You ‘ll be photographed and in a second …you’re on the cover of the famous blue box. I couldn’t resist … So, what do you think? Am I fine for a cream cover? Posted in travel | Tagged Hamburg | Leave a replyEditMATERA, Italy. The city, the Sassi and the best Lucanian dishes Posted on Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By day the sunlight enhances its white. At night, it looks like an immense nativity set up under the starry sky. Its quarter I Sassi, ancient dwellings dug into the tufo, where the roofs serve as a base for the houses that have developed on higher levels. These were dug entirely into the rock and represent one of the most striking examples of exploitation of natural resources to obtain suitable conditions for the life of a large community. In the caves often lived more families and despite the lack of space, almost all daily activities took place in the cavities of cave-houses: from handicrafts to weaving, from food storage to animal care (dogs, chicken, pigs, horses and donkeys were living with the family as primitive source of heating). The temperature was constant and guaranteed by the characteristics of the sea tufo , so the inhabitants did not suffer too much from the cold in winter and found a shelter from summer heat. This way of life for years has been seen as a sign of backwardness and incivility. The inhabitants of the Sassi were often considered as primitives living like animals. In 1952 Sassi was considered “the Italian national shame”and abandoned in the late ’50s, Sassi was able to be redeemed until they became Unesco World Heritage in and will be the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Its amazing scenario has been used s a set for Mel Gibson “The Passion” Pier Paolo Pasolini “The Gospel According to Matthew “King David”, Christ The Lord: Out of Egypt “, and the remake of “Ben-Hur “. I took the Gran Tourof Sassi, an intense 3 hours guided tour and I learn so much about the history of this amazing city. The tour begins in front of the Cathedral, in the upper part of the City, and then goes deeper into the tangle of narrow alleys, caves, cellars, churches, small gardens, tiny squares and districts. I was able to discover in detail these unusual dwellings partly carved out of the limestone. It s a long walk, so wear comfy shoes. Matera is also well now for its cooking tradition, a classic example of Italian peasant cuisine, using free ingredients combined with a fair amount of labor and know-how to turn an odd edible food into a delectable dish. Here my choices: ll Terrazzino View, ambience, real food, rich menu, moderate prices and …did I mentioned the view? Welcome to Il Terrazzino, one of the oldest deck restaurant in Sassi Eustachio Persia welcomed me with a dish of local cold cuts, including my fav lampascioni, bulbs of a common wildflower in southern Italy, then I ordered lamb, and…surprise! iIt came wrapped in yellow strawpaper. ‘This place used to be a cantina, told me Eustachio, just wine, no food.So people used to cook it at home and take it here, all wrapped up in paper tto keep it warm,then tear the bag and eat it paired with a nice glass of wine.Then came the crapiata a soup of different legumes, cereals and potatoes typical of the Basilicata cuisine of rural tradition, prepared in great quantity every year on the first day of August in the district La Martella, close to the cultivated fields and served to the inhabitants. Eustachio took me downstairs, to the 17 century cellar, which incorporates the typical architecture of the Sassi and was refurbished to retrace moments of daily life of the peasant life, Baccus Simple yet elegant restaurant Located in the Sassi area, Baccus is well know for its Chef Carlo Pozzuoli who likes to reinterpretate typical local dishes and flavors of the past in a modern way. Starting with super crunchy chips of red peppers, followed by fagots of ziti with cream of yellow and red peppers, bundled in a slice of sweet scamorza cheese topped by goat ricotta curlS. A soupy Dish with tagliolini pasta with black and white chickpeas, considered ideal fro pregnant women, since it contains a lot of iron. The menu dedicates an attentive search of local herbs, like the cicoriella, the sivone and other fresh leaves variously used in cooking: in salads, minestrone, simply boiled with oil and lemon, or as a filling of ravioli and pansotti or excellent omelettes. Carlo and his wife Mariella were wonderful hosts. Not only keeping me company at the table but also surprising me with a taste of a sweet heart shaped Sporcamuso, (begrime the face) a dessert so full of cream that I inevitably ended up with hot pastry cream all over my face. Da Mario ‘We represent the tradition. My family managed this restaurant since the 50’s’ told me Anna, owner of the popular Ristorante Pizzeria Da Mario ‘Since then we are always been loved by the people from Matera and from all over the world. Many celebrities have eaten here: Richard Gere, Mel Gibson just to mention few’ I went there for lunch and followed Anna’s suggestions, starting with a tasty orecchiette alle rape with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs, then I tried home made strascinati pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms and garnished with the typical crunchy peperone crusco, fried red pepper. Da Mario is know for its pizza. I tried a baby Margherita, perfectly cooked. ‘I love my town, peaceful and quiet, I run the restaurant a cosy BnB called Sassi Belvedere although sometimes I need some noise… some that’s why I have a place in Milan, where I go , like an escape little vacation, but then I am happy to be back in my Lucania ( the ancient name of Basilicata) Sorry I still call it Lucania.. perhaps it’s because I like the old things… I don’t blame her.. Where I stayed. Residence San Gennaro, located in the inner courtyard of the old “neighborhood”, once the fulcrum of the days of the inhabitants Super friendly host Francesco delighted me with anecdotes about the city, gave me tips took me to the prehistoric hypogeous cave below the residence, embellished with a precious Nativity and prepared a great breakfast that included fresh local products. I stayed in Guerricchio suite, that has a kitchenette, a delightful double bedroom, a private bathroom and a cute little balcony to enjoy the view on the enchanting Sassi of Matera. It is At the entrance an artistic work of great value welcomed me. “Girasoli di Guerricchio”, a Lucanian artist to whom the suite is dedicated. I also lovedCasa Noha An amazing gateway” to the city, charting its history thanks to an innovative communication project, where the walls, the ceilings and the floors will take to an extraordinary journey through the history of Matera from its origins to the present day. MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture Matera) This unique museum provides the perfect environment for the symbiosis of sculpture and the characteristic carved sites in the Sassi; the exhibition galleries, in fact, consist not only of the rooms of the Palazzo, but also the vast hypogea, where the works of art are revitalized by the strength and beauty of the surrounding rock hewn spaces Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Baccus, Basilicata, Da Mario, Il Terrazino, Matera, Sassi | Leave a replyEdit
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see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articleBOUTIQUE HOTEL CASA ANGELINA, AMALFI COAST by Cesare Zuccahttp://www.torrettas.comThree ‘Nobel’ days in Oslo Stay at the Grand Hotel 3 HOTELS ROOF TOPS you don’t want to miss by Cesare Zucca Discovering beautiful Poland POZNAN by Cesare Zucca INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Phnom Penh BEST ‘KIDS FRIENDLY’ MUSEUMS IN NEW YORK Children’s Museum of The Arts (103 Charlton St) invita all’arte, coinvolgendo i bambini in disinvolte classi di pittura, ceramica, scultura e musica. New York City Fire Museum (278 Spring St) organizza Safety Tour, una vera lezione sul fuoco con tanto di simulazione di incendio, dove un vigile newyorkese insegnerà le tecniche di salvataggio. Children’s Museum of Manhattan (212 West 83 St) è un immenso asilo stile Disneyland con cinque piani di attrazioni, giochi educativi, passatempi intelligenti e divertimento, daLet’s Dance, spazio interattivo dedicato ai bambini che amano ballare, a Art, Artists & You dove i piccoli si improvvisavo artisti . Natural History Museum (CPW/79 St) ospita The Butterfly Conservatory, una foresta con più di 500 farfalle da tutto il mondo. You just don’t realize how lucky you were when your join the guided 3,30-hour food tour organized by VisitLLjubljana.com managed by the Tourism Office of Ljubljana until you experience it. They offer numerous guided city tours including the Historical City Centre and Ljubljana Castlerevolving around history, art and landmarks, whether on foot, bicycle or on a boat cruising the river. There is no other way to sample the incredible diversity of Slovenian food in so little time and in such a fun and well-paced way. Slovenia is a small country yes, but it counts no less than 24 gastronomic regions. Ljubljana, reminding me of Paris in a way, is pretty much in the center of the country and, as a capital, has attracted many food vendors and restaurateurs to benefit from the largest concentration of population (and tourists) of the country. But, right off the bat, let me tell you that, at no point, do you feel shepherded to a pasture of touristic traps you would have found on your own. The choice is balanced between food shops and restaurants, clearly very carefully picked. Also, it isn’t a gorging party: at the end of the tour, you feel satiated, without ever feeling over full!. As all good cooking requests, things started with the sourcing of ingredients: the market! And Ljubljana is blessed, right in its center with a human sized, yet substantial farmer’s market, with one section dedicated to only certified organic vendors. I had noticed on my way to the tour some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms, as well as yellow broad beans that I had never encountered before. Lucky enough, I was able to find them again and was met with the most charming smile the seller could have shared. Then, we got to visit the permanent covered market, a beautiful building along the riverbank. That was like entering a world of its own. Gorgeous charcuterie, cheeses, breads (got a loaf of this dark and dense bread, yet moist and oh! so tasty). A separate section is dedicated to fish, perhaps for temperature and odor control. Whatever the reason might be, I was really impressed by the display of fish available and the absence actually of any strong fishy smell. Slovenia is known mainly as an inland country, but it does have a little bit of coast on the Adriatic Sea and they sure know how to source the best of what can come out of it. Everything looked so fresh, a real temptation for any cook. But carrying fish on ice for the rest of the tour was NOT going to happen! We met our lovely guide Simona in Ciril-Metodov, the cobblestoned main street. She took us at Klòbasarna, where we had the first tasting: a warm smoked sausage form the Carniola region just South of Austria, in other words at the Northern end of Slovenia. Made of the finest pieces of pork, this sausage neither greasy nor too dry, just hit the spot accompanied by a light red wine, a little horseradish and mustard which I loved. Simona took us in more that 7 venues, specialized in different specialties, from the syrups and the honeys of Dobrote-Dolenjske, to the traditional cake prekmurska gibanica homemade at GujzinaI won’t be going in the detail of all the things tasted, either in gastronomic shops or in restaurants… I want you to go and experience it for yourself. Besides beef tongue, fried chicken, honey (Slovenia is Europe’s largest producer per capita), my heart will go for this humble dish of mashed potatoes with sautéed onions and bits of bacon that we tasted at a very special restaurant, Druga Violina, where all the members of the staff suffer from some form of disability or another. It felt really good to contribute to this effort to support the community and, let’s be frank, it also tasted soooo good, just by itself. With influences coming from all neighboring countries (Italy, Austria, Hungry and Croatia), tucked between sea, plains, forests and mountains, the small country of Slovenia is rich of diversity and, if this three-hour tour cannot cover everything, it sure serves as the best introduction one can hope to taste in this timeframe! Tours priced at 52€ everything included, To make a reservation For more infowww.visitLjubljana.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Food Tour, Ljubljana, prekmurska gibanica, Tourism Office of Ljubljana | Leave a replyEditGRAND HOTEL TOPLICE, JULIJANA RESTAURANT IN BLED, SLOVENIA Posted on Slovenia. Bled, about an hour North of the capital Ljubljana to the North-West of Slovenia. Rather than the town it is the beautiful lake that gives the name Bled, famous among the European elite as early as the 1930’s with the construction of a luxurious hotel providing natural hot spring source knowned for health benefits.I am talking of the Grand Hotel Toplice, a venue that boasts a rich history, a magical location, gorgeous alpine and lake views and sumptuously comfortable, elegantly styled rooms. Each of the rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Toplice has its own unique character and are traditionally styled with beautiful parquet floors, rich furniture and beautiful paintings with many of the rooms benefiting from breathtakingly beautiful lake views. The hotel has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory and is one of the best hotels in Slovenia as well as being a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection. It has hosted many eminent guests and is frequented by celebrities such as Vivian Leigh, Arthur Miller, Pablo Neruda, King Hussein of Jordan, Paul McCartney and…me, with my best friend-chef-writer Philip Sinsheimer, graciously hosted by Sava hotel and resort group that manage the venue. Starting from the impeccable reception. the hotel boasts luxurious accommodation, few restaurant, a bar and the enchantment of Lake Bled. All rooms and suites are individually decorated in an enchanting and traditional style, lavishly equipped with an excellent range of facilities, a relaxing thermal swimming pool and benefit from different saunas, wellness services and a solarium among a private lido, where Philip (expert swimmer) dived in the limpid lake water while me (lazy man…) was indulging in a relaxing sunbathing. We dedicated the morning ( when the light is best) to row to the island where the minuscule baroque chapel.I was anxious to hear the bells rings, because I knew about the legend wich narrates that around the year 1500, the leaseholder of Lake Bled at the time, Hartman Kreigh, disappeared. People said he was killed. Sad for the events, the Lady of the Castle collected all of her precious golden jewellery to be melted down and casted into a bell for the chapel on the island of the Lake, so that the bell would toll in remembrance of beloved companion. They say the bell has a magic power, when it rings, you should make 3 wishes and wait for them to become real. We did 99 steps and finally we arrived at the church, where the view is really breathtaking and, yes, we waited for the bell… Not sure my wishes are becoming a reality, we ll see…. A true wish coming true was the splendid dinner we were invited for dinner at Julijana Restaurant where Chef Bertoncelj prepared a great dinner. I leave Philip the privilege of writing about it, since he is a chef and a food blogger. GRANDE CUISINE BY THE LAKE This historic landmark now called the Grand Hotel Toplice, operated by the Sava hotel and resort group, has managed to preserve the relics of the past with grand salons adorned with memorabilia pictures and bring all the comfort of modernity at the same time.This delicate balance between past was brilliantly reflected in the cuisine of the executive chef Simon Bertoncelj and the whole crew under him. Having dinner at the gastronomic JulijanaRestaurant, especially if the weather allows to eat al fresco facing the lake is a moment of bliss: the quality of service, attention to detail and classic decor evoke a certain respect of classical elegance. This doesn’t constrain the cuisine to old classics, and the chef’s creativity and modern techniques seem to find their place very naturally in this elegant environment. The mise en bouche consisting of a delicately baked oyster and a buttery giant shrimp had all the signs of what you can expect in a palace restaurant: prime quality ingredients simply treated. This seafood opening was in synch with the view of the water even though it wasn’t the sea. As I were to learn later by the chef, unfortunately, as beautiful as it is, the lake doesn’t often yield the quantity of fish needed to take place on the menu. The mushroom cappuccino with porcini had the depth of flavor one can only get in top notch restaurants, served piping hot but adorned with the freshness of a few micro greens scattered on top rather than the old habit of a dollop of cream and a few chives. Fresh too was the vitello tonnato inspired salad, bright and lively. Here, as in all the great restaurants experienced in Slovenia, the wine list paid homage to the country’s fine wines, such as the 2017Verus Chardonnay from Stajerska, the western part of the Podravje region in the North of the country. At last a chardonnay that can showcase both concentration of flavors and freshness in the palate with a mere 13° alcohol content.The shining fish course was a thick and moist turbot filet, perfectly cooked and adorned by a beautiful composition of vegetables and foamy grapefruit sauce. Here again: classic base and modern composition. Though generous, nothing was heavy, and the beautiful matured saddle of veal served pink with a herb crust was still welcome. To finish, the iconic Bled Cream Cake, which recipe goes back to 1953 and is secretly kept by the Sava hotels group. The result was up to the legend. Even though I really do not have much of a sweet tooth, and I have had my share of mille-feuilles in France, this raised version of the classic with just two layers of perfectly crisp puffed pastry holding a firm custard covered by a layer of lighter whipped cream is to die for… Chef Simon Bertoncelj, who has worked under the commands of Gordon Ramsey, seems rather poised and discreet, but if you really want to find out, he opens his kitchen to a guest table of 2 to 6 people for a 7-course menu cooked and served, right before their eyes…and ears! For more info Julijana Restaurant Grand Hotel Toplice Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenia +386 4 579 10 00 Contact Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenija Reception +386 4 579 10 00 ghtoplice@hotelibled.com Reservations +386 4 579 16 00 info@hotelibled.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Bed, chef Simon Bertoncelj, Grand Hotel Toplice, Juljiana Restaurant, Slovenia | Leave a replyEditHotel Hellsten, Stockholm. Memories of an exotic journey Posted on Hotel Hellsten is located in the heart of Stockholm and is the ideal starting point for all those who are visiting the City, since the attractions and sites of interest are reachable by public transport within easy reach including the subway that is just round the corner. The next street is the busy Sveavägen, Stockholm”s only real boulevard. The hotel is just around the corner from the underground (metro) stop Rådmansgatan. The locality is one of the most exciting in Stockholm, with a multitude of different restaurants within a few minutes walking distance. It is also a short walk from Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic and beautiful old town. I loved the area, and the next busy street Sveavägen, so alive and full of restaurants, shops and…barbers & haidressers,don’t ask me why, but very useful… The rooms are divided into various types depending on the services they offer, mostly in different styles, some have canopy bed, some are equipped with the classic Swedish fireplace called kakelugnar, light rays, wooden panels, even a private sauna, The walls are painted with warm colors that span from orange to red, to blue, to purple. All rooms have private new bathrooms, TV, telephone, free wired internet access and a hairdryer. They are non-smoking as well as the entire structure. My room had a cosy little terrace. Here and there I found exotic touches, my guide explained that Mr.Hellsten, owner of Hellsten, Rex and the newest Hellsten Glashus, is an enthusiastic traveller who likes to collect items from his trips. I loved the african masks ! You have a colonial-style bar where coffee and tea are served 24 hours for free. Great idea! Every Thursday Hellsten Earth Bar transforms into one of Stockholm’s premier jazz venues. Exciting live acts on stage at 8pm and on the last Thursday of each month you are welcome to jam with the band, just bring your instruments or vocals, and the entrance is free.. Comfy beds and an excellent breakfast buffet that included pancakes, cold cuts, cheeses, eggs, lots of fruits and the traditional Swedish meatballs and served in a sunny and spacious veranda. Add Hotel Hellsten on your next trip to Stockholm! For more info http://hellsten.se/en/Hotel_Hellsten Posted in travel | Tagged Hotel Hellsten, Stockholm | Leave a replyEditIndustrial or design? A posh stay in Hamburg Posted on In my last trip to Hamburg I got the chance to visit and stay in Hotel Gastwerk and The George, two great properties owned by Fortune Hotels Group. They have different style and decor, both friendly, welcoming and worth to spend one (or few) nights there.Let’s start with the industrial red bricks Gastwerk. The name says it all, It was a squared and rigorous red bricks gas factory. Roughly 120 years ago, the old gas plant provided light to the streets and houses in West Hamburg. In the impressive and carefully restored industrial building, built with brick and steel, modern design and historical architecture form a fascinating harmonic setting. Gastwerk is first Hamburg’s design hotel. The building welcomed me with a large hall with a wide, meticulously well lighted reception and two unforgettable metal elevators, one red and one yellow lighted. The industrial adventure was already starting… 141 rooms, lofts and suites, some with modern walls with a contemporary feeling, some with bricks walls (I love them), like the loft-like one where I was staying, giving the perfect atmosphere of and warehouse. In addition to that Gastwerk boasts a configurable conference area, the Mangold restaurant (I didn’t dine there, so no idea of the food) the L.BAR, the beautiful SPA, free parking spaces in front of the hotel and underground. Here and there you’ll discover classy touches of fresh flowers, old black and white pictures, original gas machines, and a splendid old water boiler. The second Fortune Hotel is The George, located in the hearth of the vibrant Saint George area. This venue is a triumphant tribute to the apotheosis of a ‘boutique hotel’ concept, where design meets furniture, lighting and that smell of trendyness… This reinterpretation of English style in Hamburg results in rooms swathed in warm colors ranging from cocoa to Champagne, lamps with delightful pleated shades and stylish wallpaper in a variety of designs. Super comfy mattresses, a nice view of the Lake Alster, not to mention that sweet & cute ‘Welcome Cesare’… The George Hotel is a four-pearl property flush with a Great-Britain-in-the-’60s design, with 125 stylish rooms that all have flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free weight, a party-vibe bar, the supercool rooftop Campari Lounge in the terrace with a spectacular view of the Alster, a defined breakfast buffet that included a fine selection of cold cuts, imported cheeses, fruits and vegetables, and… Yes! there is Da Caio, italian restaurant (where I could not resist peeping at the menu, which I found correct in dishes choices and…right spelling, which is always a good sign for an Italian eating in an Italian restaurant abroad… Here info Hotel Gastwerk The George, Fortune Hotels Group. Posted in travel | Tagged Da Caio, Fortune Hotels Group, Gastwerk Hotel, Hamburg, The George Hotel | Leave a replyEditTwo memorable days in Pula Posted on Great history, mild climate, smooth sea, unspoiled nature, dream beaches, friendly locals, smiling people, amazing food and…best teeth on hearth! Welcome to Croatia!I spent only two days in Pula, but, believe me , I ‘ll go back!. Pula is the largest town on the Istrian peninsula and offers a diversity of attractions to lovers of culture. The rich itinerary of its three thousand year old history, where every step you take through the Old Town is a landmark, begins and ends with the Roman amphitheatre. The city has a long tradition of winemaking, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism. The Arena. Pula’s amphitheater was built around the end of the first century before Christ. It was August with a very hot weather. That s why my lovely guide Rossana met me there early in the morning , immediately after they open the gate. I suggest you to do the same. Rossana told me a quite cute legend about a raw linen made tent (they called it velarium) that used to be opened up to protect from the sun and give some shade to the audience while watching the show, or function as a bug umbrella in case of rain. Actually the morning is he best time to come to the arena as well the sunset time. Often the Arena hosts operas, concerts and performances. The acoustic is amazing: Tenors Giorgio Pavarotti, Placido Domingo and Beniamino Gigli said the this place was one of the most suitable for their voice and for the public. In the Arena have been performing great music legends such as Tina Turner, Joe Cocker, Sting, Simply Red, Robert Plant, Status Quo, Massive Attack, just to mention few. Every summer, Pula host a superb Film Festival in the Arena, Celebrity town. Pula was also the residence of many Italian celebrities, from Italian singer Sergio Endrigo, to Italian actress Alida Valli who was celebrated as one of the most beautiful woman in the he world.Pula girls! The legacy of Alida Valli keeps the tradition. Beauty, charme, and those beautiful legs, so famous all over the world, make the local girls into dreamgirls ! Writer James Joyce choose Pula as his residency for several years. After a full day of historical sightseeing you will find many coffee shops on the street Forum including Café Uliks is a must for any fans of James Joyce, the Irish author who worked in Pula as a teacher in the early 20th century.Wines and foodWines top quality wines including Malvasia (one of my favorites) the most famous Istrian wines produced from indigenous white grapes. and Teran, a rich red wine, intensely purple colored, able to compet with the Italian ones but less expensive. A big time specialty is the zgvacet ragout. It is a sauce of diced chunks of chicken meat. In Pula, just as in most towns of Istria, be sure to taste seafood specialties, of which dishes rospi (monkfish), sea bass or delicious buzara Kvarner scampi only a small number of delicacies on offer. In Pula you should try and shells, thanks to the clear waters are a special flavor mussels, scallops or kanaštrele excellent fish stew, and definitely should try the black risotto with cuttlefish. Lovers of oily fish to taste anchovies to savor. This dish is eaten cold and fried sardines topped with sauce, oil, onion, vinegar and spices.In Pula you should try and maneštras traditional thick soup whose main ingredients are potatoes and beans with added mixture of bacon and garlic. Truffles! Many Pula’s restaurants carry the highlight of gastronomy: the white truffles. Try them with fusi or gnocchi with truffles or shaved over meat or cheese. But the real combo, the Romeo and Juliet of the choiche should be truffles and eggs!Bars, shops, market and flea marketsHave fun, look around, bargain! Smile!Dental tourism, is hot in Croatia, organized groups come here and put their teeth in place with low-budget, cheaper prices, excellent quality, good materials and expert dentist. How to contact them who contact them? Or you can see on the websites or call the local tourist agency that will give you advice on the best places or to be so lucky to have a friend who has already been here already. Do not! Croatia has its own currency: the kuna. Don’t change your money in the street, you may get useless Balcanian or Bulgarian money… Go into a bank and change there!Where to stay I stayed atAmfiteatar Hotel, located in the heart of the Pula city, hotel Amphitheater is at a 2 minutes walking distance to the Arena and 5 minutes walking distance to the city cathedral, with the harbor also in the close vicinity. Beach and the airport are only 10 minutes away by car. Very close to the arena and within a short walking distance to all the other attractions in the old town. I had dinner in the outdoor restaurant, Owner Chef and culinary star Deniz Zembo prepared delicious local dishes with a twist. I loved the grilled octopuss and delicious cake. I would like to thank the lovely ladies Viviana Vukelic and Adriana Bajic from Ente Nazionale Croato per il Turismo in Milan and the super cool Goran from the Tourism Office in Pula, Chef Deniz Zembo and my amazing guide Rossana. They truly contributed to make my Pula’s visit memorable,fun and wonderful. For more info ENTE NAZIONALE CROATO PER IL TURISMO https://croatia.hr/en-GB TOURISM OFFICE PULA http://www.pulainfo.hr/Hacienda Chichen: discover the most revered Mayan site the smart way!Chichen Itza, located inland of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 200 km East of Cancun, is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Mexico with over 2.6 million tourists in 2017. Do the math… .That’s on average over 7000 visitors a day. Even though the site is not limited to the iconic Kukulcàn pyramid (photo 1) and covers a very large area (over 300 hectares), that is a lot of human flesh roaming around! Especialy when one considers that the most popular way to visit the Unesco world heritage site is via tour operators organizing day trips from Cancun or Merida, creating a huge influx of fully loaded buses arriving around 11 AM or so every day. Arriving with the sun at its hottest among hordes of tourists had always been a deterring idea to me. I had sacrificed the visit of wholly site during my passed 3 visits of Yucatan, favoring the ruins of Tulum and Cuba, less crowded and still awesome examples of the might and splendor of the Mayan civilization. For this fourth visit this last spring, I was determined to visit the legendary Chichen Itza in the best way possible. Staying overnight at the Hacienda Chichen revealed to be the smartest answer possible. Smart because by staying overnight in this historic hotel located a few hundred feet from the archeological site enables to start exploring the grounds as early as 8 AM, before the arrival of the crowds. Smart, because the hotel combines genuine elegance and great service while respecting authenticity and ecological responsibility. Follow me, let me show you the way…When I arrived from Tulum around noon at the Chichen Itza bus terminal, I was left at the main entrance of the site in one of the largest parking lots I have ever seen: hundreds of buses still unloading their loads of tourists from every continent. The line to the ticket booth was long, the heat dreadful. Instead of joining the frenzy, I hopped in a cab and 10 minutes later, I was discovering the old-world charm of the Hacienda Chichen. The check in was a breeze and the welcoming cocktail made of pineapple and Chaya leaf juice refreshing as heaven (pic 3). I was later to learn that it had been freshly made from the organic garden of the property, providing a lot of the fruits, vegetables and herbs used by the kitchen The front desk offered to arrange the purchase of my ticket to visit the site the next morning, without any surcharge, avoiding the hassle to wait in line. They also offered the possibility to have a legitimate private guide for the visit, but as usual, I declined in order to feel totally free and visit at my own pace. The afternoon was mine to relax and enjoy what the Hacienda had to offer. The 28 rooms set in a total of 12 cottages spread out on the lush grounds were originally built to host archeologists who helped excavate the site. Now they are opened to all offering soothing air conditioning, large bed, beautiful sheets, large bathrooms, fresh flowers and hammocks on the front porch for those eager to adopt the Mayan way to take a nap at the sound of singing birds Another way to relax in a horizontal way is to indulge in one of the treatments at the Yaxkin spa. And that’s exactly what I did, with the 45-minute Pakal treatment, a Maya healing ritual focusing on the head and the upper body. The soul is also soothed by an initial prayer in Mayan language by my charming therapist. I loved the fact that the room was very large, not one of those cubicles where on feels locked up. The outside garden was present in the room with the use of various herbs and plants, including a refreshing aloe vera jelly applied on the face.Totally relaxed, I finished the afternoon by lingering by the superb swimming pool, large and square as I like them to do laps at length. .Recycled and chemical-free water added a guilt free sensation to the overall pleasure. Time went by and before I knew it was time to meet the general manager for a grand tour of the property, including the restored church where weddings can be organized, surrounded by the beautifully maintained vegetation). No wedding the evening of my stay, but I still felt like a very special person, enjoying an evening drink on the beautiful front patio at the sound of a traditional trio singing deep from the heart local ballads. For dinner, I ventured across the street to the humbler Villas Areological hotel (http://www.villasarqueologicas.com.mx/chichen-itza.html) that I wanted to check out for its restaurant serving a variety of traditional dishes from Yucatan. The best, by far, was the cream of Chaya soup and I appreciated the selection of Mexican wines. The night was young, but the day had been long, so I was eager to return to my beautiful room for a good night sleep. At 8:20 Am, I recuperated my ticket to visit the site and was guided to the private entrance specific to the Hacienda. I was alone when I crossed the gate and after a ten-minute walk, I was facing the beautiful Mayan pyramid with the company of a couple of iguanas, but not another human soul. The morning air was cool, and the silence only broken by singing birds. All the merchants on the way were focused on unpacking their things, leaving me unburdened. Besides the famous pyramid, I loved walking through the gigantic ball game field practically alone As well as discovering the sacred cenote (sinkhole) and the perfectly aligned columns without the eye sore of groups of tourists ruining the geometry of the monuments. After three hours of walking at my own pace, I went back to the Hacienda, walking against the growing flow of visitors and the solicitations of the souvenir vendors, they were in full swing mode, trying to sell their T-shirts and miniature statues probably made in China! The heat had risen and a last dip in the pool after a refreshing outdoor shower felt like pure bliss. At noon I was packed and ready to leave this magical place. A short taxi ride took me to the small town of Piste where I tasted a delicious and original pozole de coco, lightly sweetened and perfectly chilled (pic 20), then hopped on a collective to reach Valladolid after 24 hours of total serenity, visiting the most famous Mayan site in the best way possible… the nontouristytourist way! Text and photos by Philip Sinsheimer HACIENDA CHICHEN RESORT AND YAXKIN SPAhttp://www.haciendachichen.comTel: +52 999 920 8407 Posted in travel | Tagged Chichen Itza, Mexico | Leave a replyEditA ‘HYGGE’SUMMER IN COPENHAGEN Posted on In summer Copenhagen is an ideal destination: favorable weather, long and sunny days, smiling, polite and serene people. It seems that everyone here discovers the secret of happiness: hygge, a Danish word that invites you to enjoy the simple pleasures of life and live alone or with friends, at home or outside, special and happy moments. Find yourself singing on the beach around a bonfire, have a nice picnic at the park, attend an outdoor concert, participate in a street festival or take a bike ride … these and more are the little pleasures of life that feed the hygge spirit in the life of the Danes. To find out right away just do this test . The result is a real personalized treatment based on hygge, released with all the tips on how to get it on a trip to Denmark. Useful and precious, a true friend! I’m talking about the Copenhagen Card, a pass that allows you to visit as many as 86 museums and attractions, use all public transportation for free and benefit from discounts on tours, bars and restaurants. I also used it for a tour of the canals and the port. 1 hour, audiogude in all languages, a show of ancient and modern architecture, a sea of photos. passing the numerous bridges of the city. But pay attention to be seated: the bridges are very low and the risk to bump your head on it, it s quite possible. Tivoli The oldest playground in the world. You will skip over breathtaking roller coasters,you will be projected into space, you will remain suspended in the air more than a thousand other rides in the charming gardens where the oriental facade of beautiful Hotel Nimb stands out. After the aerial acrobatics, I finally relaxed in the Brasserie, famous Nimb restaurant, French cuisine, refined menu, excellent wine list, good service and relaxing atmosphere (apart from the crowded side room that celebrated a noisy birthday…) I tasted the Chef’s specialties, a delicate mollusk bisque served with scampi and carrots, a crunchy turbot à la meunière, sprinkled with lemon drops, ending with a puff pastry stuffed with strawberries and cream, all paired to my favorite Sancerre Domaine de La Garenne, deliciously fruity, In short, a dinner worthy of the unique atmosphere of the location. Copenhagen history boasts of royalties and magnificent castles,Here my favorites Amalienborg Palace, a must for anyone with a taste for royal history and the life of Denmark’s royal family who still resides inside the palace. Experience royal history at the museum and sense the present of one of the world’s oldest monarchies from the beautiful palace square where you can watch the changing of its famous guards called Den Kongelige Livgarde. Every day you can experience the changing of the guards, as they march from their barracks in 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and end up at Amalienborg, where the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon. Christiansborg Palace famous for its hall covered with 17 giant tapestries, which tell 1000 years of Danish history, It is a gift from The Danish business community in occasion of Her Majesty Queen Margrethe 50th birthday,. Bjørn Nørgaard painted the full-size sketches upon which the tapestries were woven. These impressive royal rooms host the official receptions in the presence of the Queen, between a sparkle of uniforms and great evening gowns. Better to avoid arriving by car or taxi, the protocol prefers that the guests present themselves in a carriage… As a food lover, I could not resist the temptation to descend into the legendary Royal Kitchens to discover the background of an official banquet, browse the Queen’s recipes and admire one of the largest collections of copper crockery in Europe. To be or not to be… I recommend a small excursion outside the city. Helsingør 30 minutes by train. The famous Castle of Kronborg, better known as Hamlet’s house, reigns there. In fact, here Shakespeare set his drama. Gossips say that the writer had never been there, but would have been an actor in his company to tell him about this mighty fortress, from whose park, littered with cannons, you can glimpse Sweden. Suddenly the walls resound with the voices of the characters of Hamlet, which appear, like ghosts, perfectly interpreted by talented actors who bring to life the tragic events of the drama, You could spend a whole day in Kronborg, and live many experiences, guided tours through the casemates and the halls, explore the passages and towers, see a play and relax admiring the sea – but if you prefer, you can get an idea Kronborg concrete even in just one hour. Kronborg is open all year round (except 1st January, 24th, 25th and 31st December) from 11am to 4pm. In the summer (June, July and August) the schedule is extended: from 10.30am to 5.30pm. After all that drama I needed a…great meal and I went to the renowned restaurant Brasserie 1861, where I met the Chef. His name is Casper StuhrSobczyk I can describe him as a gentle viking with the sweetest smile and… smoked sardines tattooed in his arm. They called him ‘the king of herbs ‘for his passion for vegetables and fresh products from the field. His passions are: fish, molluscs, entrails as lamb’s brain, (not so popular in the quite skeptic Northern Europe), He started with French cuisine, passed to the molecular and ended up with mixing them two styles. ‘I like to play with the ingredients, says Casper, like for example, pairing strawberries to balsamic vinegar. I worked in Danmark a lot, including the Copenhagen National Library. I got good reviews and I started my new adventure here at Marienlyst Hotel, In my my fridge at home, there is always place for eggs, probably because my wife loves them, lot of vegetables and of course several max sizei Pepsi. I Love Pepsi… ‘His friendly Verona born partner Fabio Ciccarelli started serving a surprising appetizer: a revolutionary version of the traditional blini, made with caviar white sturgeon, to be mixed to crème fraiche on herbal waffle. The ingredients just melt perfectly together. Then a salted unusually cooked burned salmon, followed by a mackerel with foie gras, green peas. As a main dish , I tasted halibut with asparagus that burned for few minutes to maintain the crunchiness. Every dish was so intense, so fresh and so herbal. No wonder why Chef Sobczyk is the ‘king of herbs… ’In the summer, Denmark is a foodies paradise with its festivals and gastronomic events Do not miss the Copenhagen Cooking & Food Festival from August 24th to September 2nd, during which Copenhagen becomes a huge Nordic restaurant and definitely stop at the new street food Reffen, an urban playground recently opened, that mixes crafts and culture. Reffen is a place where the people of Copenhagen are invited to take part in the development. 54 start-ups in the form of food stalls, bars and creative workshops many confirming the dogmas “Reduce and Reuse”. Mermaid yes or no? The most celebrated mermaid statue of The Little Mermaid from Hans Christian Andersen’s children’s story, sitting on a stone at Langelinie in the harbor of Copenhagen, Denmark. Honestly I saw her from the boat and I have to say that the invading ‘selfie addicted crowd’ didn’t appeal to me… So I went at night, and here she was, alone, shining on the dark, mysterious and looking like wanting to splash in the water any minute, That, I call a magic encounter with Miss Mermaid…for more info #visitdenmarkstories @govistdenmark. Posted in travel | Tagged Copenhagen | Leave a replyEditHamburg, Germany, Why go there and where to stay, what to eat Posted on I started my Hamburg experience with an avalanche of photos and selfies on board of the Stadtrundfahrt double-decker bus, providing earphones in all languages. In a couple of hours you’ll know the city, get off when you want, visit and get the next one. An indispensable tour, also in a mini-cruise version with Harbor CruiseYou will enjoy the aquatic view of the city, of the immense port and of the colossal cargo ships with gigantic containers. Hamburg means bricks, red bricks, so my next stop was Speicherstadt. Almost a kilometer of old warehouses with typical red bricks, used as storage for incoming goods: oriental carpets, tea, raw coffee, cocoa, tobacco, spices. Among the attractions: a kaffeerösterei, an old coffee roaster, where you can also enjoy decadent cakes with strawberries and cream. Chocoversum, a true chocolate triumph, Manufactum a trendy shop and the Spice Museum where you will find and taste everything: European spices, Asian and Indian flavors, exotic perfumes, 50 varieties of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, mustard seeds and the most expensive ones: orchid vanilla and saffron. Miniatur Wunderland Models of trains and landscapes in miniature? I was doubtful …well, I was amazed. Two huge floors where landscapes and cities of all the world have been meticulously reconstructed with airports, motorways, railways in great turmoil and crowded by a thousand minuscule people, including a team while washing Pope Francis car… Travel and read. 130 bookshops stocked with second hand books! Passengers are allowed not only to read them during their journey ,but also to take them home. Elbphilharmonie Extraordinary glass structure, with windows that look like eyes. With its perfect acoustic, hosts concerts and shows. You get there with a spectacular 82 meter escalator that runs through The Plaza, from which you can enjoy a great view. Perfect location for a drink or a snack at the Beer & Dine and a little shopping in the well-stocked book, music and souvenir store. Tickets can be booked 18 weeks in advance and children up to three years do not pay. Hamburg and its museums. I chose two. Kunsthalle, 700 years of art, from the great masters of the Renaissance until 1800 with Manet, Caspar David Friedrich, up to the German expressionism (which I adore) and the contemporary avant-garde . MKG Great museum with unusual exhibits: famous deco posters, precious vintage pianos, sketches and 30s dresses, a space dedicated to design furniture, photo galleries avant – garde and much more. It is true that the hamburger was born in Hamburg? The most famous meatball in the world is ‘made in the USA’ or ‘made in Hamburg’? The name would leave no doubt, but the Americans boast its paternity. The Germans claim that it was cooked in the houses of Hamburg and then it was exported to the USA, while for the Americans it would be born in the port of Hamburg, a municipality located in the state of New York and the inventors would have been the Menches brothers who in 1885 would propose the first sandwich stuffed with meat during the country festival Erie County Fair. Legends aside, here you will find space burgers. The best from Burger Lounge, Jim Block Jungfernstieg, Dulf’s Burger, Otto’s Burger Grindelhof and Schanze . WHERE TO STAY I tried two hotels, both experiences were great!
Novotel Hamburg City Alster Hotel 4-star hotel in the modern rooms and suites with a desk and free WIFI Central location and U-Bahn station on our doorstep make the Novotel Hamburg City Alster hotel the ideal base in Hamburg. 5-minutes away from Alster-Schwimmhalle and within 20 minutes of English Theatre Of Hamburg. Highlights at this hotel include in-room free WiFi, free high-speed Internet, and LCD TVs. All 210 soundproofed rooms feature sofa beds, satellite TV, and separate bathtubs and showers. You’ll find nice touches like soaking tubs and free toiletries to enhance your stay. Coffee/tea makers, free newspapers, and safes are also available. Enjoy the fitness centre, Turkish bath/hammam, and sauna. Business amenities include a meeting room and a business centre. Added amenities include free WiFi in public areas and laundry facilities. Each morning excellent buffet breakfast is served between 6:30 AM and 10:30 AM. Sights within a 20-minute walk of this 4-star Hamburg-Nord hotel include Museum of Arts and Crafts Hamburg and Mundsburg Center. Enjoy the comfort of the sauna and the video games area. Rooms are spacious and bright, Super comfy bed…I slept like a baby! Dining in is an option with room service, and minibars provide refreshments. I had a great lunch at the hotel stylish restaurant Novo2, and a nice chat with the executive Chef, who told me that his menu focuses on seasonal products and evergreen tasty meat. and suggested a juicy and tender La Maracho Rump Steak with sauteed vegetables and … a silver swan (just for decoration…) Novo2 is an innovative combination of a bar lounge , that offers delicious seasonal dishes and light snacks are served from 6.30am to 9.30pm. A cool spot where where you can have a nice glass of wine, like i did! INFO Luebecker Strasse 322087 HAMBURGGermanyHafenCity. It is the new futuristic district of Hamburg, area of creatives and artists, To get there they have specially built the metropolitan U4 line. in 3 stops from the center you have already arrived. Here you can breathe fresh air, the spaces are open and many Hamburgers get away from work to go for a drink or a snack. I stayed at the brand new 25 Hours HafenCityHotel where I had a great time. I felt like a sailor, the rooms look like a ship’s cabins, with prosperous painted models on the bathroom walls. Here atmosphere is easy and relaxed , The motto says COME AS YOU ARE! There is also free access to a spectacular spa in stones and wood. In the morning a rich buffet breakfast is set up, there you can find everything, including rotegruetze, my beloved raspberry, blueberry and cherry sauce served on lean yogurt. Yummy! What does a real Hamburger drink? Beer, of course! It has been produced in Hamburg for over a millennium and has become an icon of German culture. Here some popular ones. Ratsherrn, one of the city’s most famous artisan breweries From pilsner to light beers. Galopper des Jahres, popular and animated. The members of the staff are true fan of craft beer, so be sure to ask for their recommendations: they know what to suggest for every taste and palate. Blockbräu, a terrace with a wonderful view. My favorite? Altes Mädchen An incredible variety of excellent local and around 70 international beers, also combined with tasty German specialties.Remember, the real Hamburger does not drink Coca Cola! The preferred alternative is fritz-kola, rich in caffeine and lemon. It was born in 2002, invented almost for fun by young friends Lorenz and Mirco and produced with a really amateur process. Imagine: the labels were photocopies and they were glued by hand on the bottle … Today it is the national soft drink. Red lights … night and day!The St. Pauli district was once a bad area full of noisy pubs, frequented by criminals, sailors and prostitutes. Today the taverns have become artistic skyscrapers, like the Dancing Towers, which seem to really dance, while the smoky haunts of the past have become fashionable places. But the raunchy survived: sex shops, theaters, striptease, burlesque and the inevitable bouncers who invite you to enter. In addition to the ‘sensory’ attractions, the neighborhood is full of super-trendy shops, new boutiques, hip clubs and bars Keep walking around the St.Pauli district, head towards Markstrasse and the surroundings of KarolinenvIertel.There You will find small bars, self-managed restaurants, flowers, perfumes, mini boutiques and lots of vintage. If you are ‘bio’ dive into the Rider Markt Halle, and a relaxing drink from Zoe the bar of the different sofas. For more chic and exclusive products, head to Hole Bleichen.Then it comes the time for… beauty and relaxation.After a long walk, it is right to take a relaxing break in Jungfernstieg, in the heart of Hamburg with a fantastic view of the Alster river. Here Nivea Hausawaits for you, this is the official store of the famous face cream, born in Hamburg in 1929. Here you can find classic or brand new creams for face and body, cosmetics, revitalizing treatments, relaxing massages, as well as manicures and pedicures. Plus a really cute souvenir: your ‘Nivea’. You ‘ll be photographed and in a second …you’re on the cover of the famous blue box. I couldn’t resist … So, what do you think? Am I fine for a cream cover? Posted in travel | Tagged Hamburg | Leave a replyEditMATERA, Italy. The city, the Sassi and the best Lucanian dishes Posted on Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By day the sunlight enhances its white. At night, it looks like an immense nativity set up under the starry sky. Its quarter I Sassi, ancient dwellings dug into the tufo, where the roofs serve as a base for the houses that have developed on higher levels. These were dug entirely into the rock and represent one of the most striking examples of exploitation of natural resources to obtain suitable conditions for the life of a large community. In the caves often lived more families and despite the lack of space, almost all daily activities took place in the cavities of cave-houses: from handicrafts to weaving, from food storage to animal care (dogs, chicken, pigs, horses and donkeys were living with the family as primitive source of heating). The temperature was constant and guaranteed by the characteristics of the sea tufo , so the inhabitants did not suffer too much from the cold in winter and found a shelter from summer heat. This way of life for years has been seen as a sign of backwardness and incivility. The inhabitants of the Sassi were often considered as primitives living like animals. In 1952 Sassi was considered “the Italian national shame”and abandoned in the late ’50s, Sassi was able to be redeemed until they became Unesco World Heritage in and will be the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Its amazing scenario has been used s a set for Mel Gibson “The Passion” Pier Paolo Pasolini “The Gospel According to Matthew “King David”, Christ The Lord: Out of Egypt “, and the remake of “Ben-Hur “. I took the Gran Tourof Sassi, an intense 3 hours guided tour and I learn so much about the history of this amazing city. The tour begins in front of the Cathedral, in the upper part of the City, and then goes deeper into the tangle of narrow alleys, caves, cellars, churches, small gardens, tiny squares and districts. I was able to discover in detail these unusual dwellings partly carved out of the limestone. It s a long walk, so wear comfy shoes. Matera is also well now for its cooking tradition, a classic example of Italian peasant cuisine, using free ingredients combined with a fair amount of labor and know-how to turn an odd edible food into a delectable dish. Here my choices: ll Terrazzino View, ambience, real food, rich menu, moderate prices and …did I mentioned the view? Welcome to Il Terrazzino, one of the oldest deck restaurant in Sassi Eustachio Persia welcomed me with a dish of local cold cuts, including my fav lampascioni, bulbs of a common wildflower in southern Italy, then I ordered lamb, and…surprise! iIt came wrapped in yellow strawpaper. ‘This place used to be a cantina, told me Eustachio, just wine, no food.So people used to cook it at home and take it here, all wrapped up in paper tto keep it warm,then tear the bag and eat it paired with a nice glass of wine.Then came the crapiata a soup of different legumes, cereals and potatoes typical of the Basilicata cuisine of rural tradition, prepared in great quantity every year on the first day of August in the district La Martella, close to the cultivated fields and served to the inhabitants. Eustachio took me downstairs, to the 17 century cellar, which incorporates the typical architecture of the Sassi and was refurbished to retrace moments of daily life of the peasant life, Baccus Simple yet elegant restaurant Located in the Sassi area, Baccus is well know for its Chef Carlo Pozzuoli who likes to reinterpretate typical local dishes and flavors of the past in a modern way. Starting with super crunchy chips of red peppers, followed by fagots of ziti with cream of yellow and red peppers, bundled in a slice of sweet scamorza cheese topped by goat ricotta curlS. A soupy Dish with tagliolini pasta with black and white chickpeas, considered ideal fro pregnant women, since it contains a lot of iron. The menu dedicates an attentive search of local herbs, like the cicoriella, the sivone and other fresh leaves variously used in cooking: in salads, minestrone, simply boiled with oil and lemon, or as a filling of ravioli and pansotti or excellent omelettes. Carlo and his wife Mariella were wonderful hosts. Not only keeping me company at the table but also surprising me with a taste of a sweet heart shaped Sporcamuso, (begrime the face) a dessert so full of cream that I inevitably ended up with hot pastry cream all over my face. Da Mario ‘We represent the tradition. My family managed this restaurant since the 50’s’ told me Anna, owner of the popular Ristorante Pizzeria Da Mario ‘Since then we are always been loved by the people from Matera and from all over the world. Many celebrities have eaten here: Richard Gere, Mel Gibson just to mention few’ I went there for lunch and followed Anna’s suggestions, starting with a tasty orecchiette alle rape with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs, then I tried home made strascinati pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms and garnished with the typical crunchy peperone crusco, fried red pepper. Da Mario is know for its pizza. I tried a baby Margherita, perfectly cooked. ‘I love my town, peaceful and quiet, I run the restaurant a cosy BnB called Sassi Belvedere although sometimes I need some noise… some that’s why I have a place in Milan, where I go , like an escape little vacation, but then I am happy to be back in my Lucania ( the ancient name of Basilicata) Sorry I still call it Lucania.. perhaps it’s because I like the old things… I don’t blame her.. Where I stayed. Residence San Gennaro, located in the inner courtyard of the old “neighborhood”, once the fulcrum of the days of the inhabitants Super friendly host Francesco delighted me with anecdotes about the city, gave me tips took me to the prehistoric hypogeous cave below the residence, embellished with a precious Nativity and prepared a great breakfast that included fresh local products. I stayed in Guerricchio suite, that has a kitchenette, a delightful double bedroom, a private bathroom and a cute little balcony to enjoy the view on the enchanting Sassi of Matera. It is At the entrance an artistic work of great value welcomed me. “Girasoli di Guerricchio”, a Lucanian artist to whom the suite is dedicated. I also lovedCasa Noha An amazing gateway” to the city, charting its history thanks to an innovative communication project, where the walls, the ceilings and the floors will take to an extraordinary journey through the history of Matera from its origins to the present day. MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture Matera) This unique museum provides the perfect environment for the symbiosis of sculpture and the characteristic carved sites in the Sassi; the exhibition galleries, in fact, consist not only of the rooms of the Palazzo, but also the vast hypogea, where the works of art are revitalized by the strength and beauty of the surrounding rock hewn spaces Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Baccus, Basilicata, Da Mario, Il Terrazino, Matera, Sassi | Leave a replyEdit
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see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articlesee full articlesee full article see full articleBOUTIQUE HOTEL CASA ANGELINA, AMALFI COAST by Cesare Zuccahttp://www.torrettas.comThree ‘Nobel’ days in Oslo Stay at the Grand Hotel 3 HOTELS ROOF TOPS you don’t want to miss by Cesare Zucca Discovering beautiful Poland POZNAN by Cesare Zucca INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Phnom Penh BEST ‘KIDS FRIENDLY’ MUSEUMS IN NEW YORK Children’s Museum of The Arts (103 Charlton St) invita all’arte, coinvolgendo i bambini in disinvolte classi di pittura, ceramica, scultura e musica. New York City Fire Museum (278 Spring St) organizza Safety Tour, una vera lezione sul fuoco con tanto di simulazione di incendio, dove un vigile newyorkese insegnerà le tecniche di salvataggio. Children’s Museum of Manhattan (212 West 83 St) è un immenso asilo stile Disneyland con cinque piani di attrazioni, giochi educativi, passatempi intelligenti e divertimento, daLet’s Dance, spazio interattivo dedicato ai bambini che amano ballare, a Art, Artists & You dove i piccoli si improvvisavo artisti . Natural History Museum (CPW/79 St) ospita The Butterfly Conservatory, una foresta con più di 500 farfalle da tutto il mondo. You just don’t realize how lucky you were when your join the guided 3,30-hour food tour organized by VisitLLjubljana.com managed by the Tourism Office of Ljubljana until you experience it. They offer numerous guided city tours including the Historical City Centre and Ljubljana Castlerevolving around history, art and landmarks, whether on foot, bicycle or on a boat cruising the river. There is no other way to sample the incredible diversity of Slovenian food in so little time and in such a fun and well-paced way. Slovenia is a small country yes, but it counts no less than 24 gastronomic regions. Ljubljana, reminding me of Paris in a way, is pretty much in the center of the country and, as a capital, has attracted many food vendors and restaurateurs to benefit from the largest concentration of population (and tourists) of the country. But, right off the bat, let me tell you that, at no point, do you feel shepherded to a pasture of touristic traps you would have found on your own. The choice is balanced between food shops and restaurants, clearly very carefully picked. Also, it isn’t a gorging party: at the end of the tour, you feel satiated, without ever feeling over full!. As all good cooking requests, things started with the sourcing of ingredients: the market! And Ljubljana is blessed, right in its center with a human sized, yet substantial farmer’s market, with one section dedicated to only certified organic vendors. I had noticed on my way to the tour some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms, as well as yellow broad beans that I had never encountered before. Lucky enough, I was able to find them again and was met with the most charming smile the seller could have shared. Then, we got to visit the permanent covered market, a beautiful building along the riverbank. That was like entering a world of its own. Gorgeous charcuterie, cheeses, breads (got a loaf of this dark and dense bread, yet moist and oh! so tasty). A separate section is dedicated to fish, perhaps for temperature and odor control. Whatever the reason might be, I was really impressed by the display of fish available and the absence actually of any strong fishy smell. Slovenia is known mainly as an inland country, but it does have a little bit of coast on the Adriatic Sea and they sure know how to source the best of what can come out of it. Everything looked so fresh, a real temptation for any cook. But carrying fish on ice for the rest of the tour was NOT going to happen! We met our lovely guide Simona in Ciril-Metodov, the cobblestoned main street. She took us at Klòbasarna, where we had the first tasting: a warm smoked sausage form the Carniola region just South of Austria, in other words at the Northern end of Slovenia. Made of the finest pieces of pork, this sausage neither greasy nor too dry, just hit the spot accompanied by a light red wine, a little horseradish and mustard which I loved. Simona took us in more that 7 venues, specialized in different specialties, from the syrups and the honeys of Dobrote-Dolenjske, to the traditional cake prekmurska gibanica homemade at GujzinaI won’t be going in the detail of all the things tasted, either in gastronomic shops or in restaurants… I want you to go and experience it for yourself. Besides beef tongue, fried chicken, honey (Slovenia is Europe’s largest producer per capita), my heart will go for this humble dish of mashed potatoes with sautéed onions and bits of bacon that we tasted at a very special restaurant, Druga Violina, where all the members of the staff suffer from some form of disability or another. It felt really good to contribute to this effort to support the community and, let’s be frank, it also tasted soooo good, just by itself. With influences coming from all neighboring countries (Italy, Austria, Hungry and Croatia), tucked between sea, plains, forests and mountains, the small country of Slovenia is rich of diversity and, if this three-hour tour cannot cover everything, it sure serves as the best introduction one can hope to taste in this timeframe! Tours priced at 52€ everything included, To make a reservation For more infowww.visitLjubljana.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Food Tour, Ljubljana, prekmurska gibanica, Tourism Office of Ljubljana | Leave a replyEditGRAND HOTEL TOPLICE, JULIJANA RESTAURANT IN BLED, SLOVENIA Posted on Slovenia. Bled, about an hour North of the capital Ljubljana to the North-West of Slovenia. Rather than the town it is the beautiful lake that gives the name Bled, famous among the European elite as early as the 1930’s with the construction of a luxurious hotel providing natural hot spring source knowned for health benefits.I am talking of the Grand Hotel Toplice, a venue that boasts a rich history, a magical location, gorgeous alpine and lake views and sumptuously comfortable, elegantly styled rooms. Each of the rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Toplice has its own unique character and are traditionally styled with beautiful parquet floors, rich furniture and beautiful paintings with many of the rooms benefiting from breathtakingly beautiful lake views. The hotel has been recently renovated and restored to its former glory and is one of the best hotels in Slovenia as well as being a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection. It has hosted many eminent guests and is frequented by celebrities such as Vivian Leigh, Arthur Miller, Pablo Neruda, King Hussein of Jordan, Paul McCartney and…me, with my best friend-chef-writer Philip Sinsheimer, graciously hosted by Sava hotel and resort group that manage the venue. Starting from the impeccable reception. the hotel boasts luxurious accommodation, few restaurant, a bar and the enchantment of Lake Bled. All rooms and suites are individually decorated in an enchanting and traditional style, lavishly equipped with an excellent range of facilities, a relaxing thermal swimming pool and benefit from different saunas, wellness services and a solarium among a private lido, where Philip (expert swimmer) dived in the limpid lake water while me (lazy man…) was indulging in a relaxing sunbathing. We dedicated the morning ( when the light is best) to row to the island where the minuscule baroque chapel.I was anxious to hear the bells rings, because I knew about the legend wich narrates that around the year 1500, the leaseholder of Lake Bled at the time, Hartman Kreigh, disappeared. People said he was killed. Sad for the events, the Lady of the Castle collected all of her precious golden jewellery to be melted down and casted into a bell for the chapel on the island of the Lake, so that the bell would toll in remembrance of beloved companion. They say the bell has a magic power, when it rings, you should make 3 wishes and wait for them to become real. We did 99 steps and finally we arrived at the church, where the view is really breathtaking and, yes, we waited for the bell… Not sure my wishes are becoming a reality, we ll see…. A true wish coming true was the splendid dinner we were invited for dinner at Julijana Restaurant where Chef Bertoncelj prepared a great dinner. I leave Philip the privilege of writing about it, since he is a chef and a food blogger. GRANDE CUISINE BY THE LAKE This historic landmark now called the Grand Hotel Toplice, operated by the Sava hotel and resort group, has managed to preserve the relics of the past with grand salons adorned with memorabilia pictures and bring all the comfort of modernity at the same time.This delicate balance between past was brilliantly reflected in the cuisine of the executive chef Simon Bertoncelj and the whole crew under him. Having dinner at the gastronomic JulijanaRestaurant, especially if the weather allows to eat al fresco facing the lake is a moment of bliss: the quality of service, attention to detail and classic decor evoke a certain respect of classical elegance. This doesn’t constrain the cuisine to old classics, and the chef’s creativity and modern techniques seem to find their place very naturally in this elegant environment. The mise en bouche consisting of a delicately baked oyster and a buttery giant shrimp had all the signs of what you can expect in a palace restaurant: prime quality ingredients simply treated. This seafood opening was in synch with the view of the water even though it wasn’t the sea. As I were to learn later by the chef, unfortunately, as beautiful as it is, the lake doesn’t often yield the quantity of fish needed to take place on the menu. The mushroom cappuccino with porcini had the depth of flavor one can only get in top notch restaurants, served piping hot but adorned with the freshness of a few micro greens scattered on top rather than the old habit of a dollop of cream and a few chives. Fresh too was the vitello tonnato inspired salad, bright and lively. Here, as in all the great restaurants experienced in Slovenia, the wine list paid homage to the country’s fine wines, such as the 2017Verus Chardonnay from Stajerska, the western part of the Podravje region in the North of the country. At last a chardonnay that can showcase both concentration of flavors and freshness in the palate with a mere 13° alcohol content.The shining fish course was a thick and moist turbot filet, perfectly cooked and adorned by a beautiful composition of vegetables and foamy grapefruit sauce. Here again: classic base and modern composition. Though generous, nothing was heavy, and the beautiful matured saddle of veal served pink with a herb crust was still welcome. To finish, the iconic Bled Cream Cake, which recipe goes back to 1953 and is secretly kept by the Sava hotels group. The result was up to the legend. Even though I really do not have much of a sweet tooth, and I have had my share of mille-feuilles in France, this raised version of the classic with just two layers of perfectly crisp puffed pastry holding a firm custard covered by a layer of lighter whipped cream is to die for… Chef Simon Bertoncelj, who has worked under the commands of Gordon Ramsey, seems rather poised and discreet, but if you really want to find out, he opens his kitchen to a guest table of 2 to 6 people for a 7-course menu cooked and served, right before their eyes…and ears! For more info Julijana Restaurant Grand Hotel Toplice Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenia +386 4 579 10 00 Contact Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, Slovenija Reception +386 4 579 10 00 ghtoplice@hotelibled.com Reservations +386 4 579 16 00 info@hotelibled.com Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Bed, chef Simon Bertoncelj, Grand Hotel Toplice, Juljiana Restaurant, Slovenia | Leave a replyEditHotel Hellsten, Stockholm. Memories of an exotic journey Posted on Hotel Hellsten is located in the heart of Stockholm and is the ideal starting point for all those who are visiting the City, since the attractions and sites of interest are reachable by public transport within easy reach including the subway that is just round the corner. The next street is the busy Sveavägen, Stockholm”s only real boulevard. The hotel is just around the corner from the underground (metro) stop Rådmansgatan. The locality is one of the most exciting in Stockholm, with a multitude of different restaurants within a few minutes walking distance. It is also a short walk from Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic and beautiful old town. I loved the area, and the next busy street Sveavägen, so alive and full of restaurants, shops and…barbers & haidressers,don’t ask me why, but very useful… The rooms are divided into various types depending on the services they offer, mostly in different styles, some have canopy bed, some are equipped with the classic Swedish fireplace called kakelugnar, light rays, wooden panels, even a private sauna, The walls are painted with warm colors that span from orange to red, to blue, to purple. All rooms have private new bathrooms, TV, telephone, free wired internet access and a hairdryer. They are non-smoking as well as the entire structure. My room had a cosy little terrace. Here and there I found exotic touches, my guide explained that Mr.Hellsten, owner of Hellsten, Rex and the newest Hellsten Glashus, is an enthusiastic traveller who likes to collect items from his trips. I loved the african masks ! You have a colonial-style bar where coffee and tea are served 24 hours for free. Great idea! Every Thursday Hellsten Earth Bar transforms into one of Stockholm’s premier jazz venues. Exciting live acts on stage at 8pm and on the last Thursday of each month you are welcome to jam with the band, just bring your instruments or vocals, and the entrance is free.. Comfy beds and an excellent breakfast buffet that included pancakes, cold cuts, cheeses, eggs, lots of fruits and the traditional Swedish meatballs and served in a sunny and spacious veranda. Add Hotel Hellsten on your next trip to Stockholm! For more info http://hellsten.se/en/Hotel_Hellsten Posted in travel | Tagged Hotel Hellsten, Stockholm | Leave a replyEditIndustrial or design? A posh stay in Hamburg Posted on In my last trip to Hamburg I got the chance to visit and stay in Hotel Gastwerk and The George, two great properties owned by Fortune Hotels Group. They have different style and decor, both friendly, welcoming and worth to spend one (or few) nights there.Let’s start with the industrial red bricks Gastwerk. The name says it all, It was a squared and rigorous red bricks gas factory. Roughly 120 years ago, the old gas plant provided light to the streets and houses in West Hamburg. In the impressive and carefully restored industrial building, built with brick and steel, modern design and historical architecture form a fascinating harmonic setting. Gastwerk is first Hamburg’s design hotel. The building welcomed me with a large hall with a wide, meticulously well lighted reception and two unforgettable metal elevators, one red and one yellow lighted. The industrial adventure was already starting… 141 rooms, lofts and suites, some with modern walls with a contemporary feeling, some with bricks walls (I love them), like the loft-like one where I was staying, giving the perfect atmosphere of and warehouse. In addition to that Gastwerk boasts a configurable conference area, the Mangold restaurant (I didn’t dine there, so no idea of the food) the L.BAR, the beautiful SPA, free parking spaces in front of the hotel and underground. Here and there you’ll discover classy touches of fresh flowers, old black and white pictures, original gas machines, and a splendid old water boiler. The second Fortune Hotel is The George, located in the hearth of the vibrant Saint George area. This venue is a triumphant tribute to the apotheosis of a ‘boutique hotel’ concept, where design meets furniture, lighting and that smell of trendyness… This reinterpretation of English style in Hamburg results in rooms swathed in warm colors ranging from cocoa to Champagne, lamps with delightful pleated shades and stylish wallpaper in a variety of designs. Super comfy mattresses, a nice view of the Lake Alster, not to mention that sweet & cute ‘Welcome Cesare’… The George Hotel is a four-pearl property flush with a Great-Britain-in-the-’60s design, with 125 stylish rooms that all have flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free weight, a party-vibe bar, the supercool rooftop Campari Lounge in the terrace with a spectacular view of the Alster, a defined breakfast buffet that included a fine selection of cold cuts, imported cheeses, fruits and vegetables, and… Yes! there is Da Caio, italian restaurant (where I could not resist peeping at the menu, which I found correct in dishes choices and…right spelling, which is always a good sign for an Italian eating in an Italian restaurant abroad… Here info Hotel Gastwerk The George, Fortune Hotels Group. Posted in travel | Tagged Da Caio, Fortune Hotels Group, Gastwerk Hotel, Hamburg, The George Hotel | Leave a replyEditTwo memorable days in Pula Posted on Great history, mild climate, smooth sea, unspoiled nature, dream beaches, friendly locals, smiling people, amazing food and…best teeth on hearth! Welcome to Croatia!I spent only two days in Pula, but, believe me , I ‘ll go back!. Pula is the largest town on the Istrian peninsula and offers a diversity of attractions to lovers of culture. The rich itinerary of its three thousand year old history, where every step you take through the Old Town is a landmark, begins and ends with the Roman amphitheatre. The city has a long tradition of winemaking, fishing, shipbuilding, and tourism. The Arena. Pula’s amphitheater was built around the end of the first century before Christ. It was August with a very hot weather. That s why my lovely guide Rossana met me there early in the morning , immediately after they open the gate. I suggest you to do the same. Rossana told me a quite cute legend about a raw linen made tent (they called it velarium) that used to be opened up to protect from the sun and give some shade to the audience while watching the show, or function as a bug umbrella in case of rain. Actually the morning is he best time to come to the arena as well the sunset time. Often the Arena hosts operas, concerts and performances. The acoustic is amazing: Tenors Giorgio Pavarotti, Placido Domingo and Beniamino Gigli said the this place was one of the most suitable for their voice and for the public. In the Arena have been performing great music legends such as Tina Turner, Joe Cocker, Sting, Simply Red, Robert Plant, Status Quo, Massive Attack, just to mention few. Every summer, Pula host a superb Film Festival in the Arena, Celebrity town. Pula was also the residence of many Italian celebrities, from Italian singer Sergio Endrigo, to Italian actress Alida Valli who was celebrated as one of the most beautiful woman in the he world.Pula girls! The legacy of Alida Valli keeps the tradition. Beauty, charme, and those beautiful legs, so famous all over the world, make the local girls into dreamgirls ! Writer James Joyce choose Pula as his residency for several years. After a full day of historical sightseeing you will find many coffee shops on the street Forum including Café Uliks is a must for any fans of James Joyce, the Irish author who worked in Pula as a teacher in the early 20th century.Wines and foodWines top quality wines including Malvasia (one of my favorites) the most famous Istrian wines produced from indigenous white grapes. and Teran, a rich red wine, intensely purple colored, able to compet with the Italian ones but less expensive. A big time specialty is the zgvacet ragout. It is a sauce of diced chunks of chicken meat. In Pula, just as in most towns of Istria, be sure to taste seafood specialties, of which dishes rospi (monkfish), sea bass or delicious buzara Kvarner scampi only a small number of delicacies on offer. In Pula you should try and shells, thanks to the clear waters are a special flavor mussels, scallops or kanaštrele excellent fish stew, and definitely should try the black risotto with cuttlefish. Lovers of oily fish to taste anchovies to savor. This dish is eaten cold and fried sardines topped with sauce, oil, onion, vinegar and spices.In Pula you should try and maneštras traditional thick soup whose main ingredients are potatoes and beans with added mixture of bacon and garlic. Truffles! Many Pula’s restaurants carry the highlight of gastronomy: the white truffles. Try them with fusi or gnocchi with truffles or shaved over meat or cheese. But the real combo, the Romeo and Juliet of the choiche should be truffles and eggs!Bars, shops, market and flea marketsHave fun, look around, bargain! Smile!Dental tourism, is hot in Croatia, organized groups come here and put their teeth in place with low-budget, cheaper prices, excellent quality, good materials and expert dentist. How to contact them who contact them? Or you can see on the websites or call the local tourist agency that will give you advice on the best places or to be so lucky to have a friend who has already been here already. Do not! Croatia has its own currency: the kuna. Don’t change your money in the street, you may get useless Balcanian or Bulgarian money… Go into a bank and change there!Where to stay I stayed atAmfiteatar Hotel, located in the heart of the Pula city, hotel Amphitheater is at a 2 minutes walking distance to the Arena and 5 minutes walking distance to the city cathedral, with the harbor also in the close vicinity. Beach and the airport are only 10 minutes away by car. Very close to the arena and within a short walking distance to all the other attractions in the old town. I had dinner in the outdoor restaurant, Owner Chef and culinary star Deniz Zembo prepared delicious local dishes with a twist. I loved the grilled octopuss and delicious cake. I would like to thank the lovely ladies Viviana Vukelic and Adriana Bajic from Ente Nazionale Croato per il Turismo in Milan and the super cool Goran from the Tourism Office in Pula, Chef Deniz Zembo and my amazing guide Rossana. They truly contributed to make my Pula’s visit memorable,fun and wonderful. For more info ENTE NAZIONALE CROATO PER IL TURISMO https://croatia.hr/en-GB TOURISM OFFICE PULA http://www.pulainfo.hr/Hacienda Chichen: discover the most revered Mayan site the smart way!Chichen Itza, located inland of the Yucatan Peninsula, about 200 km East of Cancun, is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Mexico with over 2.6 million tourists in 2017. Do the math… .That’s on average over 7000 visitors a day. Even though the site is not limited to the iconic Kukulcàn pyramid (photo 1) and covers a very large area (over 300 hectares), that is a lot of human flesh roaming around! Especialy when one considers that the most popular way to visit the Unesco world heritage site is via tour operators organizing day trips from Cancun or Merida, creating a huge influx of fully loaded buses arriving around 11 AM or so every day. Arriving with the sun at its hottest among hordes of tourists had always been a deterring idea to me. I had sacrificed the visit of wholly site during my passed 3 visits of Yucatan, favoring the ruins of Tulum and Cuba, less crowded and still awesome examples of the might and splendor of the Mayan civilization. For this fourth visit this last spring, I was determined to visit the legendary Chichen Itza in the best way possible. Staying overnight at the Hacienda Chichen revealed to be the smartest answer possible. Smart because by staying overnight in this historic hotel located a few hundred feet from the archeological site enables to start exploring the grounds as early as 8 AM, before the arrival of the crowds. Smart, because the hotel combines genuine elegance and great service while respecting authenticity and ecological responsibility. Follow me, let me show you the way…When I arrived from Tulum around noon at the Chichen Itza bus terminal, I was left at the main entrance of the site in one of the largest parking lots I have ever seen: hundreds of buses still unloading their loads of tourists from every continent. The line to the ticket booth was long, the heat dreadful. Instead of joining the frenzy, I hopped in a cab and 10 minutes later, I was discovering the old-world charm of the Hacienda Chichen. The check in was a breeze and the welcoming cocktail made of pineapple and Chaya leaf juice refreshing as heaven (pic 3). I was later to learn that it had been freshly made from the organic garden of the property, providing a lot of the fruits, vegetables and herbs used by the kitchen The front desk offered to arrange the purchase of my ticket to visit the site the next morning, without any surcharge, avoiding the hassle to wait in line. They also offered the possibility to have a legitimate private guide for the visit, but as usual, I declined in order to feel totally free and visit at my own pace. The afternoon was mine to relax and enjoy what the Hacienda had to offer. The 28 rooms set in a total of 12 cottages spread out on the lush grounds were originally built to host archeologists who helped excavate the site. Now they are opened to all offering soothing air conditioning, large bed, beautiful sheets, large bathrooms, fresh flowers and hammocks on the front porch for those eager to adopt the Mayan way to take a nap at the sound of singing birds Another way to relax in a horizontal way is to indulge in one of the treatments at the Yaxkin spa. And that’s exactly what I did, with the 45-minute Pakal treatment, a Maya healing ritual focusing on the head and the upper body. The soul is also soothed by an initial prayer in Mayan language by my charming therapist. I loved the fact that the room was very large, not one of those cubicles where on feels locked up. The outside garden was present in the room with the use of various herbs and plants, including a refreshing aloe vera jelly applied on the face.Totally relaxed, I finished the afternoon by lingering by the superb swimming pool, large and square as I like them to do laps at length. .Recycled and chemical-free water added a guilt free sensation to the overall pleasure. Time went by and before I knew it was time to meet the general manager for a grand tour of the property, including the restored church where weddings can be organized, surrounded by the beautifully maintained vegetation). No wedding the evening of my stay, but I still felt like a very special person, enjoying an evening drink on the beautiful front patio at the sound of a traditional trio singing deep from the heart local ballads. For dinner, I ventured across the street to the humbler Villas Areological hotel (http://www.villasarqueologicas.com.mx/chichen-itza.html) that I wanted to check out for its restaurant serving a variety of traditional dishes from Yucatan. The best, by far, was the cream of Chaya soup and I appreciated the selection of Mexican wines. The night was young, but the day had been long, so I was eager to return to my beautiful room for a good night sleep. At 8:20 Am, I recuperated my ticket to visit the site and was guided to the private entrance specific to the Hacienda. I was alone when I crossed the gate and after a ten-minute walk, I was facing the beautiful Mayan pyramid with the company of a couple of iguanas, but not another human soul. The morning air was cool, and the silence only broken by singing birds. All the merchants on the way were focused on unpacking their things, leaving me unburdened. Besides the famous pyramid, I loved walking through the gigantic ball game field practically alone As well as discovering the sacred cenote (sinkhole) and the perfectly aligned columns without the eye sore of groups of tourists ruining the geometry of the monuments. After three hours of walking at my own pace, I went back to the Hacienda, walking against the growing flow of visitors and the solicitations of the souvenir vendors, they were in full swing mode, trying to sell their T-shirts and miniature statues probably made in China! The heat had risen and a last dip in the pool after a refreshing outdoor shower felt like pure bliss. At noon I was packed and ready to leave this magical place. A short taxi ride took me to the small town of Piste where I tasted a delicious and original pozole de coco, lightly sweetened and perfectly chilled (pic 20), then hopped on a collective to reach Valladolid after 24 hours of total serenity, visiting the most famous Mayan site in the best way possible… the nontouristytourist way! Text and photos by Philip Sinsheimer HACIENDA CHICHEN RESORT AND YAXKIN SPAhttp://www.haciendachichen.comTel: +52 999 920 8407 Posted in travel | Tagged Chichen Itza, Mexico | Leave a replyEditA ‘HYGGE’SUMMER IN COPENHAGEN Posted on In summer Copenhagen is an ideal destination: favorable weather, long and sunny days, smiling, polite and serene people. It seems that everyone here discovers the secret of happiness: hygge, a Danish word that invites you to enjoy the simple pleasures of life and live alone or with friends, at home or outside, special and happy moments. Find yourself singing on the beach around a bonfire, have a nice picnic at the park, attend an outdoor concert, participate in a street festival or take a bike ride … these and more are the little pleasures of life that feed the hygge spirit in the life of the Danes. To find out right away just do this test . The result is a real personalized treatment based on hygge, released with all the tips on how to get it on a trip to Denmark. Useful and precious, a true friend! I’m talking about the Copenhagen Card, a pass that allows you to visit as many as 86 museums and attractions, use all public transportation for free and benefit from discounts on tours, bars and restaurants. I also used it for a tour of the canals and the port. 1 hour, audiogude in all languages, a show of ancient and modern architecture, a sea of photos. passing the numerous bridges of the city. But pay attention to be seated: the bridges are very low and the risk to bump your head on it, it s quite possible. Tivoli The oldest playground in the world. You will skip over breathtaking roller coasters,you will be projected into space, you will remain suspended in the air more than a thousand other rides in the charming gardens where the oriental facade of beautiful Hotel Nimb stands out. After the aerial acrobatics, I finally relaxed in the Brasserie, famous Nimb restaurant, French cuisine, refined menu, excellent wine list, good service and relaxing atmosphere (apart from the crowded side room that celebrated a noisy birthday…) I tasted the Chef’s specialties, a delicate mollusk bisque served with scampi and carrots, a crunchy turbot à la meunière, sprinkled with lemon drops, ending with a puff pastry stuffed with strawberries and cream, all paired to my favorite Sancerre Domaine de La Garenne, deliciously fruity, In short, a dinner worthy of the unique atmosphere of the location. Copenhagen history boasts of royalties and magnificent castles,Here my favorites Amalienborg Palace, a must for anyone with a taste for royal history and the life of Denmark’s royal family who still resides inside the palace. Experience royal history at the museum and sense the present of one of the world’s oldest monarchies from the beautiful palace square where you can watch the changing of its famous guards called Den Kongelige Livgarde. Every day you can experience the changing of the guards, as they march from their barracks in 100 Gothersgade by Rosenborg Castle through the streets of Copenhagen and end up at Amalienborg, where the changing of the guard takes place at 12:00 noon. Christiansborg Palace famous for its hall covered with 17 giant tapestries, which tell 1000 years of Danish history, It is a gift from The Danish business community in occasion of Her Majesty Queen Margrethe 50th birthday,. Bjørn Nørgaard painted the full-size sketches upon which the tapestries were woven. These impressive royal rooms host the official receptions in the presence of the Queen, between a sparkle of uniforms and great evening gowns. Better to avoid arriving by car or taxi, the protocol prefers that the guests present themselves in a carriage… As a food lover, I could not resist the temptation to descend into the legendary Royal Kitchens to discover the background of an official banquet, browse the Queen’s recipes and admire one of the largest collections of copper crockery in Europe. To be or not to be… I recommend a small excursion outside the city. Helsingør 30 minutes by train. The famous Castle of Kronborg, better known as Hamlet’s house, reigns there. In fact, here Shakespeare set his drama. Gossips say that the writer had never been there, but would have been an actor in his company to tell him about this mighty fortress, from whose park, littered with cannons, you can glimpse Sweden. Suddenly the walls resound with the voices of the characters of Hamlet, which appear, like ghosts, perfectly interpreted by talented actors who bring to life the tragic events of the drama, You could spend a whole day in Kronborg, and live many experiences, guided tours through the casemates and the halls, explore the passages and towers, see a play and relax admiring the sea – but if you prefer, you can get an idea Kronborg concrete even in just one hour. Kronborg is open all year round (except 1st January, 24th, 25th and 31st December) from 11am to 4pm. In the summer (June, July and August) the schedule is extended: from 10.30am to 5.30pm. After all that drama I needed a…great meal and I went to the renowned restaurant Brasserie 1861, where I met the Chef. His name is Casper StuhrSobczyk I can describe him as a gentle viking with the sweetest smile and… smoked sardines tattooed in his arm. They called him ‘the king of herbs ‘for his passion for vegetables and fresh products from the field. His passions are: fish, molluscs, entrails as lamb’s brain, (not so popular in the quite skeptic Northern Europe), He started with French cuisine, passed to the molecular and ended up with mixing them two styles. ‘I like to play with the ingredients, says Casper, like for example, pairing strawberries to balsamic vinegar. I worked in Danmark a lot, including the Copenhagen National Library. I got good reviews and I started my new adventure here at Marienlyst Hotel, In my my fridge at home, there is always place for eggs, probably because my wife loves them, lot of vegetables and of course several max sizei Pepsi. I Love Pepsi… ‘His friendly Verona born partner Fabio Ciccarelli started serving a surprising appetizer: a revolutionary version of the traditional blini, made with caviar white sturgeon, to be mixed to crème fraiche on herbal waffle. The ingredients just melt perfectly together. Then a salted unusually cooked burned salmon, followed by a mackerel with foie gras, green peas. As a main dish , I tasted halibut with asparagus that burned for few minutes to maintain the crunchiness. Every dish was so intense, so fresh and so herbal. No wonder why Chef Sobczyk is the ‘king of herbs… ’In the summer, Denmark is a foodies paradise with its festivals and gastronomic events Do not miss the Copenhagen Cooking & Food Festival from August 24th to September 2nd, during which Copenhagen becomes a huge Nordic restaurant and definitely stop at the new street food Reffen, an urban playground recently opened, that mixes crafts and culture. Reffen is a place where the people of Copenhagen are invited to take part in the development. 54 start-ups in the form of food stalls, bars and creative workshops many confirming the dogmas “Reduce and Reuse”. Mermaid yes or no? The most celebrated mermaid statue of The Little Mermaid from Hans Christian Andersen’s children’s story, sitting on a stone at Langelinie in the harbor of Copenhagen, Denmark. Honestly I saw her from the boat and I have to say that the invading ‘selfie addicted crowd’ didn’t appeal to me… So I went at night, and here she was, alone, shining on the dark, mysterious and looking like wanting to splash in the water any minute, That, I call a magic encounter with Miss Mermaid…for more info #visitdenmarkstories @govistdenmark. Posted in travel | Tagged Copenhagen | Leave a replyEditHamburg, Germany, Why go there and where to stay, what to eat Posted on I started my Hamburg experience with an avalanche of photos and selfies on board of the Stadtrundfahrt double-decker bus, providing earphones in all languages. In a couple of hours you’ll know the city, get off when you want, visit and get the next one. An indispensable tour, also in a mini-cruise version with Harbor CruiseYou will enjoy the aquatic view of the city, of the immense port and of the colossal cargo ships with gigantic containers. Hamburg means bricks, red bricks, so my next stop was Speicherstadt. Almost a kilometer of old warehouses with typical red bricks, used as storage for incoming goods: oriental carpets, tea, raw coffee, cocoa, tobacco, spices. Among the attractions: a kaffeerösterei, an old coffee roaster, where you can also enjoy decadent cakes with strawberries and cream. Chocoversum, a true chocolate triumph, Manufactum a trendy shop and the Spice Museum where you will find and taste everything: European spices, Asian and Indian flavors, exotic perfumes, 50 varieties of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, turmeric, mustard seeds and the most expensive ones: orchid vanilla and saffron. Miniatur Wunderland Models of trains and landscapes in miniature? I was doubtful …well, I was amazed. Two huge floors where landscapes and cities of all the world have been meticulously reconstructed with airports, motorways, railways in great turmoil and crowded by a thousand minuscule people, including a team while washing Pope Francis car… Travel and read. 130 bookshops stocked with second hand books! Passengers are allowed not only to read them during their journey ,but also to take them home. Elbphilharmonie Extraordinary glass structure, with windows that look like eyes. With its perfect acoustic, hosts concerts and shows. You get there with a spectacular 82 meter escalator that runs through The Plaza, from which you can enjoy a great view. Perfect location for a drink or a snack at the Beer & Dine and a little shopping in the well-stocked book, music and souvenir store. Tickets can be booked 18 weeks in advance and children up to three years do not pay. Hamburg and its museums. I chose two. Kunsthalle, 700 years of art, from the great masters of the Renaissance until 1800 with Manet, Caspar David Friedrich, up to the German expressionism (which I adore) and the contemporary avant-garde . MKG Great museum with unusual exhibits: famous deco posters, precious vintage pianos, sketches and 30s dresses, a space dedicated to design furniture, photo galleries avant – garde and much more. It is true that the hamburger was born in Hamburg? The most famous meatball in the world is ‘made in the USA’ or ‘made in Hamburg’? The name would leave no doubt, but the Americans boast its paternity. The Germans claim that it was cooked in the houses of Hamburg and then it was exported to the USA, while for the Americans it would be born in the port of Hamburg, a municipality located in the state of New York and the inventors would have been the Menches brothers who in 1885 would propose the first sandwich stuffed with meat during the country festival Erie County Fair. Legends aside, here you will find space burgers. The best from Burger Lounge, Jim Block Jungfernstieg, Dulf’s Burger, Otto’s Burger Grindelhof and Schanze . WHERE TO STAY I tried two hotels, both experiences were great!
Novotel Hamburg City Alster Hotel 4-star hotel in the modern rooms and suites with a desk and free WIFI Central location and U-Bahn station on our doorstep make the Novotel Hamburg City Alster hotel the ideal base in Hamburg. 5-minutes away from Alster-Schwimmhalle and within 20 minutes of English Theatre Of Hamburg. Highlights at this hotel include in-room free WiFi, free high-speed Internet, and LCD TVs. All 210 soundproofed rooms feature sofa beds, satellite TV, and separate bathtubs and showers. You’ll find nice touches like soaking tubs and free toiletries to enhance your stay. Coffee/tea makers, free newspapers, and safes are also available. Enjoy the fitness centre, Turkish bath/hammam, and sauna. Business amenities include a meeting room and a business centre. Added amenities include free WiFi in public areas and laundry facilities. Each morning excellent buffet breakfast is served between 6:30 AM and 10:30 AM. Sights within a 20-minute walk of this 4-star Hamburg-Nord hotel include Museum of Arts and Crafts Hamburg and Mundsburg Center. Enjoy the comfort of the sauna and the video games area. Rooms are spacious and bright, Super comfy bed…I slept like a baby! Dining in is an option with room service, and minibars provide refreshments. I had a great lunch at the hotel stylish restaurant Novo2, and a nice chat with the executive Chef, who told me that his menu focuses on seasonal products and evergreen tasty meat. and suggested a juicy and tender La Maracho Rump Steak with sauteed vegetables and … a silver swan (just for decoration…) Novo2 is an innovative combination of a bar lounge , that offers delicious seasonal dishes and light snacks are served from 6.30am to 9.30pm. A cool spot where where you can have a nice glass of wine, like i did! INFO Luebecker Strasse 322087 HAMBURGGermanyHafenCity. It is the new futuristic district of Hamburg, area of creatives and artists, To get there they have specially built the metropolitan U4 line. in 3 stops from the center you have already arrived. Here you can breathe fresh air, the spaces are open and many Hamburgers get away from work to go for a drink or a snack. I stayed at the brand new 25 Hours HafenCityHotel where I had a great time. I felt like a sailor, the rooms look like a ship’s cabins, with prosperous painted models on the bathroom walls. Here atmosphere is easy and relaxed , The motto says COME AS YOU ARE! There is also free access to a spectacular spa in stones and wood. In the morning a rich buffet breakfast is set up, there you can find everything, including rotegruetze, my beloved raspberry, blueberry and cherry sauce served on lean yogurt. Yummy! What does a real Hamburger drink? Beer, of course! It has been produced in Hamburg for over a millennium and has become an icon of German culture. Here some popular ones. Ratsherrn, one of the city’s most famous artisan breweries From pilsner to light beers. Galopper des Jahres, popular and animated. The members of the staff are true fan of craft beer, so be sure to ask for their recommendations: they know what to suggest for every taste and palate. Blockbräu, a terrace with a wonderful view. My favorite? Altes Mädchen An incredible variety of excellent local and around 70 international beers, also combined with tasty German specialties.Remember, the real Hamburger does not drink Coca Cola! The preferred alternative is fritz-kola, rich in caffeine and lemon. It was born in 2002, invented almost for fun by young friends Lorenz and Mirco and produced with a really amateur process. Imagine: the labels were photocopies and they were glued by hand on the bottle … Today it is the national soft drink. Red lights … night and day!The St. Pauli district was once a bad area full of noisy pubs, frequented by criminals, sailors and prostitutes. Today the taverns have become artistic skyscrapers, like the Dancing Towers, which seem to really dance, while the smoky haunts of the past have become fashionable places. But the raunchy survived: sex shops, theaters, striptease, burlesque and the inevitable bouncers who invite you to enter. In addition to the ‘sensory’ attractions, the neighborhood is full of super-trendy shops, new boutiques, hip clubs and bars Keep walking around the St.Pauli district, head towards Markstrasse and the surroundings of KarolinenvIertel.There You will find small bars, self-managed restaurants, flowers, perfumes, mini boutiques and lots of vintage. If you are ‘bio’ dive into the Rider Markt Halle, and a relaxing drink from Zoe the bar of the different sofas. For more chic and exclusive products, head to Hole Bleichen.Then it comes the time for… beauty and relaxation.After a long walk, it is right to take a relaxing break in Jungfernstieg, in the heart of Hamburg with a fantastic view of the Alster river. Here Nivea Hausawaits for you, this is the official store of the famous face cream, born in Hamburg in 1929. Here you can find classic or brand new creams for face and body, cosmetics, revitalizing treatments, relaxing massages, as well as manicures and pedicures. Plus a really cute souvenir: your ‘Nivea’. You ‘ll be photographed and in a second …you’re on the cover of the famous blue box. I couldn’t resist … So, what do you think? Am I fine for a cream cover? Posted in travel | Tagged Hamburg | Leave a replyEditMATERA, Italy. The city, the Sassi and the best Lucanian dishes Posted on Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By day the sunlight enhances its white. At night, it looks like an immense nativity set up under the starry sky. Its quarter I Sassi, ancient dwellings dug into the tufo, where the roofs serve as a base for the houses that have developed on higher levels. These were dug entirely into the rock and represent one of the most striking examples of exploitation of natural resources to obtain suitable conditions for the life of a large community. In the caves often lived more families and despite the lack of space, almost all daily activities took place in the cavities of cave-houses: from handicrafts to weaving, from food storage to animal care (dogs, chicken, pigs, horses and donkeys were living with the family as primitive source of heating). The temperature was constant and guaranteed by the characteristics of the sea tufo , so the inhabitants did not suffer too much from the cold in winter and found a shelter from summer heat. This way of life for years has been seen as a sign of backwardness and incivility. The inhabitants of the Sassi were often considered as primitives living like animals. In 1952 Sassi was considered “the Italian national shame”and abandoned in the late ’50s, Sassi was able to be redeemed until they became Unesco World Heritage in and will be the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Its amazing scenario has been used s a set for Mel Gibson “The Passion” Pier Paolo Pasolini “The Gospel According to Matthew “King David”, Christ The Lord: Out of Egypt “, and the remake of “Ben-Hur “. I took the Gran Tourof Sassi, an intense 3 hours guided tour and I learn so much about the history of this amazing city. The tour begins in front of the Cathedral, in the upper part of the City, and then goes deeper into the tangle of narrow alleys, caves, cellars, churches, small gardens, tiny squares and districts. I was able to discover in detail these unusual dwellings partly carved out of the limestone. It s a long walk, so wear comfy shoes. Matera is also well now for its cooking tradition, a classic example of Italian peasant cuisine, using free ingredients combined with a fair amount of labor and know-how to turn an odd edible food into a delectable dish. Here my choices: ll Terrazzino View, ambience, real food, rich menu, moderate prices and …did I mentioned the view? Welcome to Il Terrazzino, one of the oldest deck restaurant in Sassi Eustachio Persia welcomed me with a dish of local cold cuts, including my fav lampascioni, bulbs of a common wildflower in southern Italy, then I ordered lamb, and…surprise! iIt came wrapped in yellow strawpaper. ‘This place used to be a cantina, told me Eustachio, just wine, no food.So people used to cook it at home and take it here, all wrapped up in paper tto keep it warm,then tear the bag and eat it paired with a nice glass of wine.Then came the crapiata a soup of different legumes, cereals and potatoes typical of the Basilicata cuisine of rural tradition, prepared in great quantity every year on the first day of August in the district La Martella, close to the cultivated fields and served to the inhabitants. Eustachio took me downstairs, to the 17 century cellar, which incorporates the typical architecture of the Sassi and was refurbished to retrace moments of daily life of the peasant life, Baccus Simple yet elegant restaurant Located in the Sassi area, Baccus is well know for its Chef Carlo Pozzuoli who likes to reinterpretate typical local dishes and flavors of the past in a modern way. Starting with super crunchy chips of red peppers, followed by fagots of ziti with cream of yellow and red peppers, bundled in a slice of sweet scamorza cheese topped by goat ricotta curlS. A soupy Dish with tagliolini pasta with black and white chickpeas, considered ideal fro pregnant women, since it contains a lot of iron. The menu dedicates an attentive search of local herbs, like the cicoriella, the sivone and other fresh leaves variously used in cooking: in salads, minestrone, simply boiled with oil and lemon, or as a filling of ravioli and pansotti or excellent omelettes. Carlo and his wife Mariella were wonderful hosts. Not only keeping me company at the table but also surprising me with a taste of a sweet heart shaped Sporcamuso, (begrime the face) a dessert so full of cream that I inevitably ended up with hot pastry cream all over my face. Da Mario ‘We represent the tradition. My family managed this restaurant since the 50’s’ told me Anna, owner of the popular Ristorante Pizzeria Da Mario ‘Since then we are always been loved by the people from Matera and from all over the world. Many celebrities have eaten here: Richard Gere, Mel Gibson just to mention few’ I went there for lunch and followed Anna’s suggestions, starting with a tasty orecchiette alle rape with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs, then I tried home made strascinati pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms and garnished with the typical crunchy peperone crusco, fried red pepper. Da Mario is know for its pizza. I tried a baby Margherita, perfectly cooked. ‘I love my town, peaceful and quiet, I run the restaurant a cosy BnB called Sassi Belvedere although sometimes I need some noise… some that’s why I have a place in Milan, where I go , like an escape little vacation, but then I am happy to be back in my Lucania ( the ancient name of Basilicata) Sorry I still call it Lucania.. perhaps it’s because I like the old things… I don’t blame her.. Where I stayed. Residence San Gennaro, located in the inner courtyard of the old “neighborhood”, once the fulcrum of the days of the inhabitants Super friendly host Francesco delighted me with anecdotes about the city, gave me tips took me to the prehistoric hypogeous cave below the residence, embellished with a precious Nativity and prepared a great breakfast that included fresh local products. I stayed in Guerricchio suite, that has a kitchenette, a delightful double bedroom, a private bathroom and a cute little balcony to enjoy the view on the enchanting Sassi of Matera. It is At the entrance an artistic work of great value welcomed me. “Girasoli di Guerricchio”, a Lucanian artist to whom the suite is dedicated. I also lovedCasa Noha An amazing gateway” to the city, charting its history thanks to an innovative communication project, where the walls, the ceilings and the floors will take to an extraordinary journey through the history of Matera from its origins to the present day. MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture Matera) This unique museum provides the perfect environment for the symbiosis of sculpture and the characteristic carved sites in the Sassi; the exhibition galleries, in fact, consist not only of the rooms of the Palazzo, but also the vast hypogea, where the works of art are revitalized by the strength and beauty of the surrounding rock hewn spaces Posted in Food, travel | Tagged Baccus, Basilicata, Da Mario, Il Terrazino, Matera, Sassi | Leave a replyEdit
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Bernini Palace Hotel For a weekend dedicated to history and elegance, I recommend an authentic 5-star jewel of the prestigious Due Torri Hotels chain, located in a 15th-century building, right in the heart of the city, behind Piazza della Signoria and the Galleria degli Uffizi. For centuries the building has been devoted to the hospitality of wayfarers, think that in the seventeenth century it was the only hotel in Florence to have running water and a shelter for animals. Already around the mid-nineteenth century the building is remembered as the site of an elegant hotel, known as the Albergo dello Scudo di Francia and in the period of Florence, capital of the Kingdom of Italy (1865-1871) it experienced its first great moment of splendour. transforming itself into the Columbia Parliament Hotel,
For centuries the building has been devoted to the hospitality of wayfarers, think that in the seventeenth century it was the only hotel in Florence to have running water and a shelter for animals. Already around the mid-nineteenth century the building is remembered as the site of an elegant hotel, known as the Albergo dello Scudo di Francia and in the period of Florence, capital of the Kingdom of Italy (1865-1871) it experienced its first great moment of splendour. transforming itself into the Columbia Parliament Hotel, Era was at the center of national political entanglements, frequented by parliamentarians and historical figures and protagonists of the Risorgimento. remembered by the frescoed roundels that embellish the current spectacular room where refined breakfasts are served impeccably every morning. Along the walls you can admire the faces of great personalities, including Garibaldi, Cavour, Balbo, Gioberti, Lamarmora, Daniele Manin and many others The ground floor has a surprise in store for us, an old mods boutique, a meeting point for the elegant ladies of Florence who met here to discover the latest collections of fashionable caps. Customers’ heads and corsets dressed up with curious hats remind us of an ancient exhibition set up in the hotel hall in the early 1900s.
The elegance of this building has always attracted characters from high society, fashion and entertainment. Many celebrities who have chosen Bernini for their Florentine stays: rock stars, politicians, television personalities, screen stars…
Quanti VIP hanno scelto il Bernini Palace!, Patty Smith, Il Volo, Gianna Nannini, Fiorello, il Nobel Fisica Gerard Mourou, Eric, Bana, e molti altri.
How many VIPs have chosen the Bernini Palace!, Patty Smith, Il Volo, Gianna Nannini, Fiorello, Nobel Physics Gerard Mourou, Eric, Bana, and many others.
The rooms, which are divided into superior, deluxe, junior suites and suites, are sumptuously furnished with magnificent antiques with particular attention to detail, equipped with all modern comforts and free wi-fi. Each room is embellished from linen sheets, hypoallergenic duvets and light white satin cotton duvet covers. The atmosphere is intimate and welcoming. The ceilings with wooden beams, the four-poster beds, the period decorations, the precious fabrics and the marvelous tapestries contribute to creating a truly unique atmosphere.
Inside a historic portico dating back to the 1500s, we discover a small paadiso gormet: the La Chiostrina restaurant, led by Chef Stefano Bellini, a true Florentine who I did not miss for a nice interview and to experience his cuisine.
Stefano Bedini
Hello Stefano, the usual question: which car do you drive? (smiles) I had a Mercedes, some wild boars destroyed it …. and I ended up with a quiet Toyota Corolla. A trip you would like to take? I plan to go to Bora Bora for work. There I will find wonderful spices, fresh fruit and lots of shellfish, for dishes that are simple to prepare but very tasty. Where do you like to spend a free weekend? For a weekend “out of town” I like Colonnata, a fraction of the municipality of Carrara, located on the slopes of the Apuan Alps. It is known throughout the world for its white marble quarries and for its lard which has become a fashionable ingredient, but which boasts ancient and wonderful traditions to be discovered on site. If I have a few extra days, I like to spend it on the French Riviera whose colours, flavors and aromas I adore.
Colonnata e le sue cave di marmo
Where did your passion for cooking come from? From a culinary DNA that was born between the home and the teachings of grandmother Rina. I am in the middle of a generation of cooks, my father managed important restaurants in Florence and my son continues the family tradition, also exported to the United States, in Chicago, where my American mother and my Florentine father continued to cook at Italian. Your first memory in the kitchen? The potato tortelli from grandmother Rina, an excellent cook who she also ended up in various television programs recorded in Los Angeles, where she taught how to make fresh pasta. In my family, teaching has always been the order of the day, it’s not for nothing that I met my partner in a cooking class, where I was the teacher and she was the pupil… well, the passion of stoves bring us together… Do you cook at home? Yes, I like both going traditional and experimenting with new combinations, even if I think that improvisation must have a solid knowledge base and a good repertoire of notions that can be revisited by adding, decreasing, changing according to inspiration and the ingredients you have at hand.
Always and never in you fridge…. Always fresh eggs from our farmer, ham and Tuscan pecorino, finocchiona and soppressata. Never pre-packaged or industrially processed foods. I always like to start from fresh, whether to make a velvety soup or a broth, or, to stay on the Florentine theme, a classic black cabbage ribollita or pappa al pomodoro. Chef, a Tuscan first course that you like? A dish with “bici”, hand-rolled spagnettoni typical of Siena, but popular throughout Tuscany. I propose them with a white ragout of veal and thyme with green asparagus and cow’s milk ricotta coulis with walnuts. My mouth is already watering… Stefano, will you give us the recipe? Here you go!!
Pici nel ragù bianco di vitella e timo con asparagi verdi e coulis di ricotta vaccina alle noci
Recipes for 6 people: 500 g dry pici (about 20 minutes of cooking) 250 g of fresh asparagus 450 gr veal of which 300 minced 300 g veal broth (obtained with 150 g veal, 100 g celery, 100 carrots, 100 white onion, salt, bay leaves, 1 liter of water. Cook for approx. 1 hour) 2 bay leaves 50 g red onion 100 g white onion 200 g carrots 200 g celery 120 g extra virgin olive oil 80 g white wine 40 g chopped walnuts 20g butter 40 g grated parmesan Fresh thyme to taste salt and black pepper to taste
Preparation Clean the carrots, celery and onion, finely chop and fry in 80 g of EVO oil when the fried begins to color, add the minced meat and brown until it has released all its water, add the thyme and pour over the wine white, once it has evaporated, add the broth and reduce everything over a low heat. Season with salt and pepper. Separately, remove the end part of the asparagus stems. Cut the stems into rings (keep the tips) and brown them in a pan with 40 g of oil for 30 seconds, then add 200 cl of water and cook for approx. 10 minutes, add salt. Blend everything until you get an asparagus cream. Cook the pici in plenty of salted water and 5 minutes from the end of cooking add the aspragus tips. In a pan, combine the veal ragout, the asparagus cream and the drained pici. Jump over high heat mixing everything together. Add the knob of butter and the grated Parmesan and continue to sauté to make the mixture creamy. Serve and finish with ricotta quenelles, sprinkle with chopped walnuts, add a few leaves of fresh thyme.
CESARE ZUCCA Travel, food & lifestyle. Milanese by birth, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world. For WEEKEND PREMIUM he photographs and writes about cities, cultures, lifestyles. He likes to discover both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights. Cesare meets and interview top chefs from all over the world, ‘steals’ their recipes in a ” non touristy tourist ” style
By Cesare Zucca
PLEASE, MEET STEFANO ACCORSI, A REAL AWARDS COLLECTOR ! Born in Bologna, Italy, Accorsi started his carrier in 1991 in the movie FRATELLI E SORELLE. From that film his acting career took off. Talking about Awards…. Winner of may prestigious iternational awards for hit movies such as, Grolla d’Oro, David di Donatello ( the ItalianOscar) Ciak d’Oro, Nastro d’Argento 2001, Golden Globe by the Italian Foreign Press Awards), Coppa Volpi a tVenice Film Festival). In addition to that, Stefano has been awarded with title of Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres dal Ministero By the French Culture.
Stefano winner Best Actor for his role in “La Dea Fortuna”, one of the picture featured in the show “Ferzaneide” , a solo act peformed by the movie Director Ferzan Ozpetek
In 2016 receives the Gian Maria Volonte Award.For TV Sky Italia the series 1992 and the sequel 1993 and 1994 (Nastro d’Argento Award as creator and protagonist)..
La list could go on and on …. but I stop there because now we can admire Stefano’s indomitable talent on stage…
GIOIA, FURIA, FEDE Y ETERNO AMOR
A show suspended between dream and simplicity, between friendship, irony, fragility, passion, cheering, music and colours. Stefano Accorsi, artistic director of the Fondazione Teatro della Toscana, makes his debut with Azul – Gioia, Furia, Fede y Eterno Amor, the new show written and directed by Daniele Finzi Pasca.
Four friends come to terms with their respective lives and, bringing back memories, try to rebuild a serenity gone to pieces. Pinocchio, Adam, Frankenstein and the Golem are pure souls, real and at the same time dreamy characters, touching and funny clowns in which we all identify very much.
They are a football team big fans, endulging on talking of fear, of the mother ,of memories accompanied by the music of a piano and a double bass. Among the moments there is also a nice dialogue between the protagonist and the public, asked if anyone remembered exactly when and how their own child was conceived.
Accorsi holds the pew which makes the audience smile.
Grand finale with stadium lights explosion of confetti and musical anthem to celebrate the team of their heart
Azul is, therefore, a story of simple people, united by an indestructible friendship that helps them face life huddling in a delirious and touching embrace.
Finally a well-deserved applause for the evocative and hypnotic soundtrack by Rodrigo D’Erasmo and his orchestration of the final piece Coro Azul.
This is a cool memory, when I took a pic of great Director Ferzan Ozpetek at Lincolm Center , NY , for the Open Roads Film Festival
by Cesare Zucca
i had the pleasure to meet and interview Ferzan Ozpetek in New York, in occasion of Open Roads Film Festival at Lincolm Center. Ferzan Özpetek is a successful Turkish-Italian film director and screenwriter, residing in Italy.I felt like Ferzan was a longtime friend, funny, cool, totally easy to be with,
Ferzan hotel was just right in front of Central Park “ Let’s go for a walk in the Park.” suggested Ozpeteck and I had the blast interviewing , or I should say chatting with him .
Ozpetek international hit “Mine vaganti”, in french and english version
Same cozy feeling in the one and half hour solo show FERZANEIDE, that Ferzan performed last night at Teatro Franco Parenti, in Milan. With a direct line with the audience, Ferzan tells moments of his life while behind his back the photos of his life pass: him as a child, his beautiful and elegant mother, his brothers, his friends, his ” travelling companion” as Ferzan likes to call Simone, the love of his life. Ozpetek “steals” and borrows from the reality that surrounds him and sublimates it in his cinema.Everything seems to be the result of coincidences and fortuitous events, of intersections, of the joints that life puts before us. The impression was that of having been invited to a dinner where there is a guest of a certain importance who wants to just entertain his friends.Meetings, dinners on the terrace, love, flavors and many, many colours. His stories open doors and windows not only in the soul of the protagonist, but also in that of the listener. Welcome to “Ferzaneide”, the wonderful world of Ferzan Ozpetek.
By Cesare Zucca Last night at Auditorium Milano, Hitchcock PSYCO, in original version with the soundtrack played LIVE by the Orchestra Sinfonica Giovanile Milano,
More than 30 musicians greatly directed by Anthony Gabriele.
The thrill Master Hitchcock’s masterpiece as I have never seen (and heard) before.The iconic soundtrack composed by Academy Award winner Bernard Herrmann was performed by the Orchestra on the original version of the Master of suspense’s masterpiece, played by an amazing and tormented Anthony Perkins. If you want to see more check my Instagram
Next performance will be Jurassic Park with the great John Williams music
On May 31 and June 1 at Auditorium Milano. Not to be missed !
Also if you like Beethoven and…chocolate Saturday 25 March at 6 pm
Auditorium Milano will host the Milan Symphony Orchestra conducted by Maestro Ruben Jais together with the Chef and Maitre Chocolatier Ernst Knam, awaits you for a “synesthetic” adventure that combines listening to Beethoven’s music with tasting a selection of pralines, specially designed and created by the Chef for this unmissable event. Music and Chocolate have never been so close!
Let yourself be moved by listening to an overwhelming symphonic concert accompanied by the scent and taste of the best Knam chocolate.
.INFO info@auditoriumdimilano.org
Here how to buy tickets
Firenze: La nostra prossima meta è lo splendido Palazzo Portinari Salviati, casa natale di Beatrice., la Musa di Dante. Scopriremo un mondo “gourmet” davvero stellare che ospita la Sala Beatrice, l’ambiente multifunzionale nato per ospitare eventi privati e meeting di lavoro, il Salotto Portinari Bar & Bistrot dominato dalla statua originale di Cosimo 1 dei Medici, che ospita un ristorante per un pranzo di lavoro o una cena informale, un cocktail bar un drink d’autore e caffetteria anche solo per sorseggiare un ottimo caffè.
Select, spuma di lampone, arancia pera: un drink creato da Dennis, barman del Salotto Portinari:
Infine il ristorante stellato Chic Nonna di Vito Mollica, all’interno dell’affrescata Corte degli Imperatori, ricca di affreschi, mosaici, possenti colonne e una storica fontana al centro della sala, insomma un ambiente mozzafiato, dove il personale di sala vi accompagnerà al vostro tavolo.
La statua di Cosimo I e il meraviglioso sottitto affrescato
Chic Nonna è stato premiato con un Premio Speciale ai TheFork Awards 2022 per “avere dimostrato la forza e la brillantezza nel chiudere una lunga esperienza di 25 anni e rimettersi in discussione con un progetto altrettanto ambizioso e ricco”, Chic Nonna (Stella Michelin) offre un menu alla carta e due menu degustazione, oltre a una proposta di vini in abbinamento.
Gli “amouse bouche” dello Chef Vito Mollica , tra cui uno squisito bacio di dama alla zucca e citronellaUn delicatissimo crudo di capesante con cime di rapa e mela annurca
Ho incontrato Vito Mollica per una simpatica intervista
Vito Mollica
Salve Vito, il suo primo ricordo in cucina? Da subito, da piccolo. La mia era una famiglia contadina e l’attività casalinga si svolgeva soratutto in cucina: tante zie intente a cucinare, camino acceso, la “pignata” di fianco con l’ordine di non toccarla mai, visto che , come tutti i bambini , avevo sempre fame ed ero curiosissimo.
Una “cascata” di risotto al melograno servito su lepre selvatica e pistacchio salato
Quando è scattata la scintilla professionale? In diverse “fasi”: la prima prima a vent’anni, quando frequentavo la scuola a Casargo , in provincia di Lecco. Lì mi sono innamorato della vita del cuoco, del fascino del viaggio, della possibilità di girare il mondo e conoscere culture e persone diverse.
Piccione alla brace, mais e mirtilli. Piatto fedele alla filosofia “no waste” dove tutto viene utilizzato, anche i fegatini serviti su polenta
Poi la fase milanese nel ristorante Mauro, dove si serviva tantissimo pesce fresco, pwr proseguire nei grandi alberghi a Genova e Amsterdam dove avevo raggiunto una posizione di responsabilità. La scintilla “stellata” è arrivata a Londra per poi guidarmi a Firenze, una città che mi ha accolto in un modo bellissimo. Ho vissuto un lungo periodo con il gruppo Four Seasons con cui ho avuto la fortuna di aprire anche una bellissima struttura strutture a Praga di cui sono follemente innamorato anche perchè li sono nati i miei due figli
Gel di mandarino su croccante di nocciale e caramello
C’è un piatto a cui è particolarmente legato ? Una pietanza veramente casalinga: i “cautarogni” di mia mamma Carmela, un tipo di pasta stascinata fatta a mano, mentre se penso a uno chef celebre ,mi viene in mente il meraviglioso capretto di Cesare GIaccone. Uno dei suoi piatti preferiti? I cavatelli cacio e pepe, insaporiti da gamberi rossi e calamaretti.
Se non fosse diventato chef… (ride) Avrei fatto il cuoco!
LA RICETTA DI VITO MOLLICA Cavatelli cacio e pepe, gamberi rossi e calamaretti spillo marinati Per 4 persone
English version
FLORENCE, ITALY Our next destination is the splendid Palazzo Portinari Salviati, Beatrice’s birthplace. We will discover a truly stellar “gourmet” world that houses the Sala Beatrice, the multifunctional space created to host private events and business meetings, the Salotto Portinari Bar & Bistrot dominated by the original statue of Cosimo 1 dei Medici, which houses a restaurant business lunch or an informal dinner, a cocktail bar for a signature drink and cafeteria, even just to sip an excellent coffee.
Select, spuma di lampone, arancia pera: un drink creato da Dennis, barman del Salotto Portinari:
Select, raspberry mousse, orange and pear: a drink created by Dennis, barman of the Salotto Portinari:
Finally, the starred restaurant Chic Nonna by Vito Mollica, inside the frescoed Corte degli Imperatori, full of frescoes, mosaics, mighty columns and a historic fountain in the center of the room, in short, a breathtaking environment, where the waiting staff will accompany you to your table.
Vito Mollica
Chic Nonna was awarded a Special Prize at TheFork Awards 2022 for “having demonstrated the strength and brilliance in closing a long 25-year experience and challenging itself with an equally ambitious and rich project”, Chic Nonna (Michelin star) offers an à la carte menu and two tasting menus, as well as a proposal for paired wines.
La statua di Cosimo I e il meraviglioso sottitto affrescato
The “amouse bouche” by Chef Vito Mollica, including an exquisite kiss of lady with pumpkin and lemongrass A very delicate raw scallop with turnip tops and Annurca apple
Piccione alla brace , mais e mirtilli. Piatto fedele alla filosofia “no waste” dove tutto viene utilizzato, anche i fegatini serviti su polenta
I met Vito Mollica for a nice interview
Hi Vito, your first memory in the kitchen? From the very beginning, as a child. Mine was a peasant family and the household activity took place mainly in the kitchen: many aunts intent on cooking, a fireplace lit, the “pignata” next to them with the order never to touch it, since, like all children, I had always hungry and was very curious.
Risotto al melograno servito su lepre selvatica e pistacchio salato
A “waterfall” of pomegranate risotto served on wild hare and salted pistachio When did the professional spark strike? In various “phases”: the first was when I was twenty, when I attended school in Casargo, in the province of Lecco. There I fell in love with the life of a cook, with the fascination of travel, with the possibility of traveling the world and getting to know different cultures and people.
Piccione alla brace , mais e mirtilli. Piatto fedele alla filosofia “no waste” dove tutto viene utilizzato, anche i fegatini serviti su polenta
Grilled pigeon, corn and blueberries. Dish faithful to the “no waste” philosophy where everything is used, even the chicken livers served on polenta
Then the Milanese phase in the Mauro restaurant, where a lot of fresh fish was served, pwr continue in the big hotels in Genoa, Amsterdam where I had reached a position of responsibility, The “starry” spark arrived in London to then guide me to Florence, a city I welcomed in a beautiful way. I lived for a long time with the Four Seasons group with which I was lucky enough to also open a beautiful structure in Prague with which I am madly in love also because my two children were born there
Gel di mandarino e croccante al caramello
Mandarin jelly on crunchy hazelnut and caramel
Is there a dish you are particularly attached to? A truly homemade dish: my mother Carmela’s “cautarogni”, a type of hand-made pasta, while if I think of a famous chef, Cesare GIaccone’s wonderful kid comes to mind. One of his favorite dishes of his? Cacio e pepe cavatelli, flavored with red prawns and baby squid.
If he hadn’t become a chef … (laughs) I would have been a cook!
VITO MOLLICA’S RECIPE Cacio e pepe cavatelli, red prawns and marinated pin squid For 4 people
Text and pjotos by Cesare ZuccaBOM (good in Brazilian) plus MAKI (the roll of Japanese cuisine) equals BOMAKI the new nippo-brasilian cuisie that is scoring all over Italy. Last night I went to theopening for the new Bomaki Navigli, tin he trendiest ” movida” and “food” area in Milan.
One hundred seats between the internal hall and the welcoming external dehor overlooking the Naviglio, which allows you to taste the goodness of the Bomaki offer in an environment characterized by extremely refined furnishing elements.
Let’s adventure in luxuriant tropical forests and ceramic azulejos that recall the South American atmosphere. Exotic accents meet natural details in a kind of “urban escape” in the metropolis, where the menu boasts a Brazilian, Japanese and European foods can be enjoyed in a colorful environment, full of details reminiscent of South America . ………….
The menu is extensive and satisfies all tastes, in fact, in addition to the vast choice of uramaki, you can try different varieties of tartare and carpaccio or more “street” formats such as burritos and meat and fish tacos.
These delights can be combined with excellent typical Brazilian cocktails such as caipirinha, caipiroska, exotic mojitos, all with flavors ranging from mango to passion fruit and for the more traditional customers of craft beer, “Branquinha”, created specifically for Bomaki by the Brewery of Legnano.
I met The CEO of Bomaki Giuseppe Grasso who told me: “Bomaki Navigli represents an important step for the company because it covers a very strategic area of Milan and, in fact, completes our coverage on the city. The restaurant has enormous potential, both for the position we have chosen and for its internal architecture which is able to enhance the peculiarities of our food & drink offer and to keep the promise that we make to our customers every day: “
The chef and partner Jeric Bautista, brings taste and creativity to the gastronomic proposal is one of Bomaki’s strengths, the dishes are constantly evolving and keep faith with tradition, aromas and colors of Brazil. The visual impact is the first step of the culinary experience, a fundamental element for Japanese cuisine which is combined with the chromatic Brazilian gastronomy.
CESARE ZUCCA Travel, food & lifestyle.Milanese by birth, Cesare lives between New York, Milan and the rest of the world.For WEEKEND PREMIUM he photographs and writes about cities, cultures, lifestyles. He likes to discover both traditional and innovative gastronomic delights. Cesare meets and interview top chefs from all over the world, ‘steals’ their recipes in a ” non touristy tourist ” style
INFO
Bomaki Navigli Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 38, 20144 Milano MI
Menu: bomaki.itPhone:02 2305 4220
by Cesare Zucca Milano. The historical Teatro Gerolamo, a jlittle jewel built in1868, to showcase puppet companies, including the famous Carlo Colla & Figli, For decades, it was an attraction and a privileged appointment for a cultured and passionate public and for generations of young spectators. After years of decay, in 1958 it was returned to use by the impresario Paolo Grassi, who had great Italian and international actors and singers perform there, including Franca Valeri, Paolo Poli, Enzo Jannacci, Dario Fo and Franca Rame, Ornella Vanoni, Juliette Gréco and Domenico Modugno .
In 2017 it was returned to the city after a long restoration that brought the structure back to its former 19th century splendour.The Gerolamo Theatre has also been called the La Scala, in miniature because its architectural structure is reminiscent of the Milanese temple of opera,
Teatro Gerolamo presents The Circus before the Circus and is anexcellent location to show how the Circus once was performed in Theaters The story tells that in XVI century, many theaters were born in London, featuring presented mixed combinations of Elizabethan theater, equestrian exhibitions, and numbers of acrobats, tightrope walkers, contortionists, which were immediately a huge success, getting popular also in France and Italy.
Conceived by the writer Roberto Bianchin, awarded the “Premio Massimo Alberini” by the Ente Nazionale Circhi for circus criticism, and staged by a prestigious name in the history of the circus, that of Paride Orfei, descendant of the famous dynasty of the Italian circus and director of the circus arts school “Circo dei Sogni”, the show “CircoTeatro Ambrosiano”,
The Circus before the Circus, recreates the atmosphere of the nineteenth-century circus-theater, with the presence of an international cast of acrobats, trapeze artists, contortionists, antipodists, jugglers, stilt walkers, clowns, musicians, storytellers, soothsayers and phenomena.
The cast the mime and clown Paolo Casanova, aka “Carillon”, the aerial acrobat Snejinka Nedeva, the comedian Benjamin Delmas, the antipodist Romy Meggiolaro; the juggler Sonny Caveagna; the verticalist Britney Bricherasio; the acrobats: Christian Orfei, Matilde Pasotti, Simone D’Agostino; the contortionists Angelica Caforio and Matilde Grossi; the trapeze artist Federica Solinas; the musicians Roberto Riccitelli and Nicole Davis
Paride Orfei celebrates his long artistic career with a book about his circus life The presentation of the latest works will take place at the Teatro Gerolamo in Milan on the morning of Friday 17 February
Paride Orfei
On the occasion of the inauguration of the historical exhibition, the book by Paride Orfei, “The dream of the Orfei”, will be presented in preview at the Gerolamo Theater. A sort of autobiography, not only of him, but of his entire family, which has marked the history of the Italian circus, with a rich apparatus of rare photographs and unpublished documents.
In addition to that Teatro Gerolamo hosts the exhibition “Nando Orfei, a family dream”, curated by Gioia Orfei family, using materials from their archives (stage costumes, objects, tools, photographs, posters), which recount one hundred years of life, adventures and successes of this great dynasty of the Italian circus.
«Memories and music“ It took five years for the album, made up of 8 songs. – says Paride Orfei -. The songs, written and arranged by myself together with Roberto Riccitelli, a close friend, range from rock to blues. These are genres with which I have always had greater confidence and familiarity. The lyrics are based on first-person stories, anecdotes and poems about the circus universe that has surrounded me so far“.
At Teatro Gerolamo Till Feb 19, 2023 P.za Cesare Beccaria, 8, 20122 Milano Phone: 02 4538 8221
CASONCELLI, the “ambassadors of Bergamo cuisine” The real “kings” of the table are the casoncelli, created in the Upper Town way back in 1386, on the occasion of a celebration for two thousand people in which “chopping boards full of artibotuli, otherwise called casoncelli” were offered, therefore a dish that encompasses history, tradition and culture .
I casoncelli di Enrico “Chicco” Cerea
I met a true expert of Bergamo cuisine, the “Starred King” Enrico “Chicco” Cerea who, with his brothers Bobo and Francesco and with his sisters Rossella and Barbara is at the helm of the famous restaurant “Da Vittorio” emblazoned with three Michelin stars.
Enrico e Roberto Cerea
Hello Chicco, how does the cuisine of “Da Vittorio” honor “culture”? It goes without saying that being able to pass on tradition thanks to the kitchen is already making culture. Passing on one’s knowledge to one’s collaborators, allowing them to explore issues related to products, etiquette at the table and creating an Academy to study specific topics such as management, coffee, wines, etc.
Can we define it as a “passion” for food? Absolutely, a passion that comes from afar… And then my true, almost secret passion that I have had since I was a child: desserts, which for me are the subject of exciting elaborations and limitless experimentation and represent an intimate commitment and a point of reference both for the creation of new trends for the reinterpretation of great classic desserts.
Your first encounter with traditional dishes? I was lucky enough to have been born and raised in a family of restaurateurs and therefore with the possibility of trying particular and traditional dishes since I was a child. I have the utmost respect for the dishes of memory, I find that it is a way of transmitting and making culture, as well as what you can tell your customers every day. Your first memory in the kitchen? When I went to the home of a great aunt, who lived in Ambivere, a small village near Bergamo, but she was the head of a group of housewives from Bergamo, in charge of preparing the casoncello for the usual village festival. They boasted that it was the best casoncello in the Bergamo area. I didn’t have the technical knowledge skills I have now in the gastronomic field, but I certainly still have a vivid memory of these fantastic casoncelli.
Lo Chef tristellato Chicco Cerea
What struck you the most? The scent of sizzling butter, combined with that of slightly crunchy bacon and sage. The flavor of the cheese and the softness of the filling with the consistency of the thick paste, which she invited to be continuously tasted. She made my mouth water. Can you tell us about “his” recipe for casoncelli from Bergamo? With pleasure, here you go!
I casoncelli di Enrico “Chicco” Cerea
CASONCELLI ALLA BERGAMASCA
Ingredients for the dough:
400 g soft wheat flour 100 g re-milled durum wheat semolina 2 whole eggs Approximately 120 g of warm water Salt to taste Olive oil to taste
Dough execution: Work the flours with the eggs, a pinch of salt and a drizzle of oil, adding a little water at a time until you obtain a smooth and homogeneous dough. Leave to rest for about 1 hour in the refrigerator.
Filling ingredients:
100 g salami paste 100 g minced pork 50 g of butter Macaroon QB 50 g abate pears (sieved to reduce to pulp) 1 egg 10 g sultana raisins 50 g Parmesan cheese Nutmeg to taste Salt and Pepper To Taste Chopped parsley
Execution of the filling:
Melt the butter in a pan, brown the salami paste and minced pork previously salted and peppered, after a few minutes add the chopped parsley. Transfer the mixture into a saucepan, add the pears, amaretto, egg, previously chopped sultanas, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg; work until obtaining a homogeneous mixture. Fix salt and pepper.
Ingredients:
100 g mountain butter 100 g grated Parmesan cheese 50 g bacon from Bergamo Fresh sage
Preparation Roll out the dough, with the help of a mold form discs of about 2 cm in diameter, fill with the filling and close in a half-moon shape. Cook the casoncelli in abundant salted water and season with melted mountain butter, fresh sage and bacon from Bergamo and Parmesan cheese. I
Ristorante: Da Vittorio
Indirizzo: via Cantalupa, 17 – 24060 – Brusaporto (Bergamo)
I CASONCELLI , gli “ambasciatori della cucina bergamasca” raccontati da ENRICO CEREA, 3 Stelle Michelin ” Da Vittorio” Brusaporto, Bergamo, Italy I veri “re” della tavola sono i casoncelli, creati in Città Alta nel lontano 1386, in occasione di una per duemila persone nella quale vennero offerti «taglieri ricolmi di artibotuli, altrimenti detti casoncelli” dunque un piatto che racchiude storia, tradizione e cultura.
I casoncelli di Enrico “Chicco” Cerea
Ho incontrato un vero esperto della cucina bergamasca, il “Re Stellato” Enrico “Chicco” Cerea che, con i fratelli Bobo e Francesco e con le sorelle Rossella e Barbara è al timone del celebre ristorante “Da Vittorio” blasonato da tre Stelle Michelin.
Lo Chef tristellato Chicco Cerea
Buongiorno Chicco come onora la “cultura” la cucina di “Da Vittorio”? Va da sé che poter tramandare grazie alla cucina la tradizione è già fare cultura. Il trasmettere le proprie conoscenze ai propri collaboratori permettendo loro di approfondire tematiche sui prodotti, sul bon ton a tavola e creando della Academy per studiare specifiche tematiche vedi management, caffè, vini eccetera… Possiamo definirla una “passione” per il cibo? Assolutamente si, una passione che viene da lontano… E poi la mia vera, quasi segreta passione che ho di fin da bambino: i dolci, che per me sono oggetto di esaltanti elaborazioni e di sperimentazione senza limiti e rappresentano un intimo impegno e un punto di riferimento sia per la creazione di nuove tendenze che per la reinterpretazione di grandi dessert classici. Il suo primo incontro con i piatti della tradizione? Ho avuto la fortuna di essere nato e cresciuto in una famiglia di ristoratori e quindi con la possibilità fin da bambino di provare piatti particolari e della tradizione. Ho il massimo rispetto per i piatti della memoria, trovo che sia un trasmettere e fare cultura, oltre anche a quello che puoi raccontare ogni giorno ai tuoi clienti. Il suo primo ricordo in cucina ? Quando andavo a casa di una prozia, che abitava ad Ambivere, un paesino vicino a Bergamo, ma era a capo di un gruppo di massaie di Bergamo, preposte alla preparazione del casoncello per la consueta festa del paese. Loro si vantavano fosse il più buon casoncello della bergamasca. Non avevo allora le capacità di conoscenza tecnica che ho ora nel campo gastronomico, ma di certo ho ancora vivo il ricordo di questi fantastici casoncelli. Cosa la colpiva maggiormente ? Il profumo del burro che sfrigolava, unito a quello della pancetta leggermente croccante e della salvia. La sapidità del formaggio e la morbidezza del ripieno con la consistenza della pasta spessa, che invitava ad essere continuamente degustata. Mi ha fatto venire l’ acquolina in bocca. Ci racconta la “sua “ ricetta dei casoncelli bergamaschi? Con piacere, eccola!
CASONCELLI ALLA BERGAMASCA Ingredienti per la pasta:
400 g farina di grano tenero
100 g semola di grano duro rimacinata
2 uova intere
120 g d’acqua tiepida circa
Sale QB
Olio d’oliva QB
Esecuzione impasto: Lavorare le farine con uova, pizzico di sale e un filo d’olio aggiungendo poca acqua alla volta fino ad ottenere un impasto liscio ed omogeneo. Lasciar riposare per circa 1 ora in frigorifero.
Ingredienti ripieno:
100 g pasta di salame
100 g carne maiale macinata
50 g di burro
Amaretto QB
50 g pere abate (passate a setaccio ridotta a polpa)
1 uovo
10 g uvetta sultanina
50 g parmigiano reggiano
Noce moscata QB
Sale e pepe QB
Prezzemolo trito
Esecuzione del ripieno:
Sciogliere il burro in un tegame, rosolare la pasta di salame e carne di maiale macinata precedentemente salata e pepata, dopo qualche minuto aggiungere prezzemolo trito. Trasferire il composto in un tegame, unire pere, amaretto, uovo, uva sultanina precedentemente tritata, parmigiano reggiano e noce moscata; lavorare fino ad ottenere un impasto omogeneo. Sistemare di sale e pepe.
Ingredienti:
100 g burro di montagna
100 g parmigiano reggiano grattugiato
50 g pancetta bergamasca
Salvia fresca
Preparazione Stendere la pasta, con l’aiuto di uno stampo formare dei dischi di circa 2 cm di diametro, farcire con ripieno e chiudere a mezzaluna. Cuocere i casoncelli in abbondante acqua salata e condire con burro fuso di montagna, salvia fresca e pancetta bergamasca e parmigiano reggiano.