Testo e Foto di Cesare Zucca

Text in english by Philip Sinsheimer

Pronti per scoprire la costa orientale della Calabria?
Vi attende la meravigliosa Costa Ionica che prende il nome dalle antiche colonie greche della Magna Grecia. Qui si produceva già vino in epoca antica e ancora oggi Cirò è il territorio vinicolo più conosciuto della regione, grazie anche al riconoscimento della DOC. La costa non manca di spiagge da sogno e tesori gastronomici, ma prima bisogna attraversare l’imponente catena montuosa che separa i due mari: si arriva fino a 2267 metri di altitudine, nel bellissimo Parco Nazionale del Pollino.

Morano Calabro
Il nostro itinerario inizia da un Incantevolo borgo-presepe arroccato sulla collina, fatto di case e chiese tutte dello stesso colore dorato e luminoso. In cima, ci sono i ruderi di un castello da cui si capisce subito quanto fosse importante la posizione per difendersi dagli attacchi dal mare.

Il suo fascino coniuga perfettamente arte e natura: da un lato le opere di Pietro Bernini e Vivarini, dall’altro l’imponenza del Serra Dolcedorme. I suoi paesaggi hanno ispirato poeti e pittori, tra cui li celebre incisore e grafico olandese Maurits Cornelis Escher che è vissuto per molti anni in Italia, affascinato dai paesaggi e dalle architetture del nostro paese.

Dove alloggiare
La Locanda del Parco, è un agritursmo immerso nella natura. Il casale è antico, arredato con pezzi d’epoca. Tutto è curato nel rispetto della tradizione calabrese, dall’arredo al menu.

Dalla cucina arrivano  piatti tipici, come la pasta fatta in casa con ‘nduja, la zuppa di fave, il baccalà con peperoni cruschi, il saporito cinghiale. Provate un tipico amaro locale con foglie di ulivo.

La mattina dopo ecco una special guest: la signora della pasta fresca, che ogni giorno viene lì a prepararla. Ricetta super semplice: farina, uova e acqua, ma ci vuole arte per ottenere quella consistenza perfetta…

Brrrrrr…..
Nelle vicinanze, scoprirete Avena, un paese fantasma abbandonato. Le case sono ancora in piedi ma completamente invase dalla vegetazione. Sembra una scena di un film horror, dove un’ invasione di zombie ha fatto fuggire tutti gli abitanti… Il silenzio è surreale, solo qualche uccellino rompe l’atmosfera, ricordandoti che un po’ di vita c’è ancora.

Civita
A pochi chilometri c’è Civita, uno dei Borghi più belli d’Italia. Un posto unico per due motivi: le case con facciate che sembrano facce e la forte presenza della comunità arbëreshë, cioè di origine albanese.
C’è anche un piccolo museo che racconta la loro storia: arrivati dalla Puglia, si sono stabiliti qui e hanno conservato lingua e tradizioni.

Dove mangiare
Kamastra, vecchia ocanda di un tempo, si possono apprezzare i tradizionali sapori di ieri. Chef Francesco serve il piatto forte della casai: i deliziosi cavatelli alla “nenesa”, con una crema di amaranto, erba selvaggia che si trova nei dintorni, e la specilità della casa: agnello al forno, tenerissimo, si scioglie in bocca! La carta dei vini è ampia, molti provenienti dalla zona di Cirò.

Rossano
Scendendo verso la costa ionica verso Rossano, scoprirete l’imperdible Museo della Liquirizia, “Giorgio Amarelli”, fondato nel 2001 all’interno di un antico palazzo quattrocentesco .

È il primo e unico museo italiano dedicato alla liquirizia, racconta oltre tre secoli di tradizione imprenditoriale, dalla raccolta delle radici all’estrazione e trasformazione artigianale, attraverso antichi macchinari, cimeli, documenti e abiti epoca . La visita è guidata, con degustazioni nel Museum Café e shopping nello Liquorice Shop

Dove Dormire
Bisanzio Resort.

immerso nel verde, in mezzo alla natura incontaminata, situato a circa 30 minuti di auto dal Parco Nazionale della Sila, a 15 minuti dalla costa ionica e dalle sue splendide spiagge, vicino a luoghi di grande interesse culturale e archeologico. Le stanze sono grandi, pulite e i letti comodissimi. Anche la ristorazione è di primordine:  materie prime, unite ad una cucina tradizionale ma al contempo raffinata e una  fornitissima cantina

Gerace
Antico borgo medievale, soprannominato “la città delle cento chiese” e caratterizzato da un dedalo di viuzze, piazzette e scalinate che si snodano tra le case in pietra e i palazzi storici. Sembra uscito da un libro di fiabe, dove il tempo si è fermato, pensate che fino a pochi anni fa, alcune famiglie usavano ancora forni a legna pubblici per il pane.

Da vedere : la Cattedrale con l’imponente campanile, la Chiesa di San Francesco di Assisi, nota per le decorazioni policrome dell’altare, la Chiesa di San Giovannello, la più antica chiesa Ortodossa di Italia e il Castello Normanno, perfetto per chi ama sognare tra torri e panorami mozzafiato.
Dove dormire
Palazzo Candida
Elegante B&B è situato in uno dei palazzi storici più belli della città, in pieno centro. Gli ambienti sono stati restaurati con grande cura e mantengono intatta la loro bellezza antica. Le camere sono confortevoli e elegantemente arredate, con vista sul borgo antico e piccoli terrazzini da cui ammirare suggestivi scorci panoramici sull’azzurro del Mar Jonio.  Gli ambienti sono stati restaurati con grande cura e attenzione ai minimi dettagli.

Santa Severina
Puntando verso il Sud, impossibile non fare una sosta in questo borgo arroccato sui colli,  degno di essere sul podio dei “Borghi più belli d’Italia”  Vi colpirà subito con il suo imponente castello normanno, costruito dopo la cacciata dei Bizantini alla fine dell’XI secolo.

All’interno del castello troverete una miriade di musei: da quello della storia locale a quello dedicato alla lirica e alla “divina” Maria Callas.

Dopo la visita, nella piazza centrale , troverete un insolito Museo del Caffè che ospita centinaia di oggetti rari, macinini, caffettiere e strumenti legati alla preparazione e al consumo del caffè.

Sarà una vera esperienza sensoria che probabilmente vi inviterà a sostare nel bar del centro, punto di incontro dei santaseverini , per gustarvi un meraviglioso espresso servito “in sospensione” e , perchè no…anche una fantastica granita al caffè con panna

Per la cena, alla Locanda del Re, troverete una chicca della zona: la sardella, una specie di ‘nduja, ma fatta con sardine neonate al posto del maiale, perfetta per chi non mangia carne. Se invece amate la carne, non perdetevi le polpette: una vera bomba.

Badolato
Proseguendo verso sud lungo la costa ionica, scoprirete Badolato, la cui parte antica è una vera meraviglia. Le sue stradine strette, le case in pietra e le antiche chiese raccontano secoli di storia. Negli ultimi decenni ha attirato l’attenzione per i progetti di recupero abitativo, accogliendo stranieri e artisti in cerca di tranquillità. Il borgo è noto anche per le sue tradizioni religiose, come la “Processione dei Vattienti”.

Lì troverete il ristorante Aqua’ dove Chef Ciro riesce in un’impresa rara: unire alta cucina e tradizione locale con equilibrio perfetto.

Piatti raffinati, ma mai pretenziosi, dal crudo di gambero rosso, servito come un mosaico sottile su tutto il piatto, decorato con le teste dei gamberi, finocchietto selvatico e pepe rosa, ai ravioli con peperone rosso, calamari e cozze serviti su una salsa spettacolare.

In abbinamento, il bianco “Phemina” della Cantina Brigante, che dimostra quanto può essere elegante il Greco Bianco, se vinificato bene. Badolato è una meta perfetta anche per la clientela internazionale: pensate che molti americani in cerca delle proprie radici italiane comprano qui case antiche, che venfono restaurate da un team di esperti locali e modernizzate all’interno.
Buon appetito, buon cibo, buon vino e buon viaggio in Calabria!

CROSS THE MOUNTAINS TO REACH THE IONIC DELIGHTS
 English version by Philip Sinsheimer

Off we go to discover the Eastern Coast of Calabria, the famous Ionic coast that owes its name to the ancient settlements from Greeks, part of the “magna Grecia”. They sourced wines there and today Ciro is perhaps the best known wine country of Calabria benefiting from the international recognition of a DOC. The coast doesn’t lack beautiful beaches and gastronomic treasures, but before reaching those, one has to cross the mountainous region that separates the two seas that counts the highest altitude of the Calabria, culminating at 2267 meters, part of the fabulous Pollino National Park.
 
MORANO CALABRO
From Scalea on the Tyrrhenian coast, it normally takes no more than one hour to reach the historic village of Morano Calabro. But, along the way, we could not resist stopping to see the ghost town of Avena, an abandoned village. The houses are still standing but inhabited by wild plants. What an eerie feeling to walk among those remnants of a past not so distant.
It feels like everyone had to escape from a shattering earthquake or a menacing monster. Visually striking, it’s perhaps the absolute silence that is the most gut-wrenching. Thank god for the few birds chirping once in a while attesting that life has not totally abandoned the once upon a time village.

The arrival in Morano Calabro is really unforgettable: the small town cover this hill with houses and churches uniform in their luminous, soft golden hue. At the very top, there are the ruins of an ancient castle and one can understand the importance of the topography to defend the city from any invaders that would have pushed it that far from the coast.
 

We opted to spend the night a little outside of the historic center to enjoy the calm and beauty of the Locanda del Parco (Agriturismo Locanda del Parco | Agriturismo). Set in a beautiful country side, the old mansion is part of the Agriturismo and the personnel really take it at heart to respect the environment and culinary traditions. After a quick rest in a bedroom filled with antiques and offering a view over all the valley, time was set to try the food.
Everything on the menu is tempting, from the homemade pasta with ‘nduja (the famous spicy soft and spreadable sausage typical of Calabria) or salted cod (baccala) and cruschi peppers, for those who do not care for hot and spicy food.

The main courses are also fabulous in quality of the meats, as well as the preciseness of the cooking process. The forest comes to your plate with the wild boar cooked in Magliocco wine (cinghale selvatico) keeping the rustic theme of the place. Our charming and knowledgeable server had us sample various amari liquors from the area, including one made with olive tree leaves. Perfect night cap, unless you prefer to sip a tea made from herbs picked in the garden. The next morning we met the pasta lady who comes every morning to make the fresh pasta of the day. Simple recipe with only flour, egg and water, but a lot of kneading technique involved to obtain the right texture.
 
 
CIVITA
Only a few kilometers away, take the time to discover Civita, another village that was honored by the prestigious title of Most beautiful village of Italy (see Home | I Borghi più Belli d’Italia). Two characteristics make Civita a really unique place. First the collection of houses built in such a way that their façade resemble faces. Secondly, the important population from Albanese ancestry who live there. A tinny museum gives you a chance to see the story of these immigrants who arrived in Puglia and made their way to this area of Calabria where they created a community.

Albanese language is till spoken by some inhabitants, but everyone can enjoy the traditional cuisine found at Kamastra restaurant (Ristorante tipico).
An absolute must try are the cavatelli alla “nenesa” dressed with an unctuous sauce made from local herbs and especially amaranth when in season. A wonderful and unique dish to try. Because of the generosity of the servings, we decided to share the roasted lamb  main course and that too is a must: Fall off the bone tender meat roasted for a really long time at low temperature. Amazing!

The wine list is generous, organized by producers (cantine). Trust the waiter to find the perfect red to match that lamb, many of which local or down the hill in the region of Ciro where we went next.
 
ROSSANO
Going downhill towards the Ionic sea, our first stop where we stayed at overnight was in Rossano (www.hotelbisanzioresort.it) You’ll need to go uphill to reach the hotel, enjoying the view and the fresher air along the way. Rooms are simple, clean, very large and the beds extremely comfortable.

 
SANTA SEVERINA
Heading South towards Crotone, a visit of Sanra Severnia is not to be missed. The small city perched in the hills gives an impression of historical grandeur with its huge castle built by the Normans after they ousted the Byzantines at the end of the eleventh century and destroyed almost everything of their own palace. A rich museum of local history is set inside the castle, allowing to appreciate its size and unique style.

Enjoy the slow pace of Santa Severina by having a drink on the main square to observe the locals strolling along.
La Locande del Re is where we ate, getting to taste a delicacy typical of the Province of Crotone: sardella. Think n’duja, in other words a spicy spread that you eat on crostini, but baby sardines replace the ground pork meat. Perfet for pescatarian eaters!
Meat lovers, on the other hand, will be under the spell of the meatballs which are to die for.

 
BADOLATO
 
Continuing our way South along the Ionic coast, we were hosted in the historic old town of Badolato to have the one of the best meals we got to taste in Calabria. The restaurant Aqua’ (www.aquabadolato.it) manages to blend high-end gastronomy and soulful local cuisine, a feat that is not often achieved.

Delicate, but never bland, complex, but never complicated. The first course showcased the expertise of the chef with a crudo de gambero rosso shrimp turned into a paper thin mosaic covering the plate, garnished with erected heads of the king of shrimp, a few sprigs of wild fennel, and pink “peppercorn”.

The Ciro white wine named “Phemina” showcases what great results the Greco Bianco grape can generate, as long as the vinification process is up to the task, which the Cantina Brigante achieves beautifully.
The ravioli with red pepper, calamari and mussels were elevated to a true gem with the fabulous sauce that it came with. The restaurant is adapted to the international clientele that Badolato counts. Many Americans who want to reconnect with their Italian roots, find opportunities to buy houses with a lot of character that they modernize from the inside.

 
GERACE
An ancient medieval village, nicknamed “the city of a hundred churches,” characterized by a maze of narrow streets, small squares, and stairways that wind between stone houses and historic buildings. It seems like something out of a fairytale, where time has stood still; just think, until a few years ago, some families still used public wood-fired ovens for bread.

Must-sees: the Cathedral with its imposing bell tower; the Church of San Francesco di Assisi, known for its polychrome altar decorations; the Church of San Giovannello, the oldest Orthodox church in Italy; and the Norman Castle, perfect for those who love to dream among towers and breathtaking views.

Where to stay
Palazzo Candida https://www.palazzocandida.it/ located in one of the city’s most beautiful historic buildings, right in the center. The rooms are comfortable and well-appointed, with views of the old town and small terraces offering picturesque panoramic views of the blue Ionian Sea.
The rooms have been meticulously restored and maintain their original beauty. Five elegantly furnished rooms are equipped with every comfort: en-suite bathroom, television, air conditioning, minibar, kettle, and complimentary toiletries..

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
 
–        https://calabriastraordinaria.it/
–        Agriturismo Locanda del Parco | Agriturismo
–        http://www.kamastra.net
–        http://www.hotelbisanzioresort.it
–        http://www.aquabadolato.it

2022-2023 SUMMARY OF WINE ARTICLES

LJUBLJANA SLOVENIA, VINOTEKA MOVIA. IS ORANGE THE NEW WHITE? By Philip Sinsheimer

Let’s be honest, before I set foot at the beautiful Movia wine bar in Slovenia’s capital, I had never heard of “orange wines”. Have you? If not, the best thing is to do is go right now over there and ask for an orange wine tasting. For 18€, you will get a flight of 4 of them, beautifully presented and explained by the great staff, possibly Leonard, the charming and oh so enthusiastic young sommelier in the making..
I received a royal treatment from Borut, the manager of the wine bar, located on one of the most passing streets of Ljubljana’s center. It was 10 pm and all the tables outside were taken, so we started our tasting inside, historic looking bar with wood panels and huge counter. But, wherever we were, I know you’re burning to know what in the world are orange wines?
The short and simple answer is that they are NOT of course wines made out of fermented oranges! No, they are white wines with a dark and deep yellow hue, some leaning towards a true orange color. Why this color? Because of the way they are made. In short, white grapes are crushed and left to macerate and ferment leaving the juices in contact with the skins and pits. For how long? It depends, up to a year. The process is very natural in a way, often no yeast or other additives need to be added. Since when has this technique been done? Only 5000 years ago, approximately, especially in the Caucasus region and what now is Georgia (the country). But, it’s only 20 years or so ago that the process made a big come back

Here we are, Slovenia having been with Italy one of the wine countries at the forefront of this revival. So, if in doubt, you are in the right place and in good hands to discover the world of orange wines. Ok, how do they taste like? Imagine a light, pale, crisp, light pinot grigio from Veneto… well, it’s about the perfect opposite of that: mature, deep, with tannins reminding red wines (because of the skin contact) and complex. These are serious, bold, sipping white wines demanding to be served cold, but not chilled, definitely not the type of wine you serve in an ice bucket by the pool. To go with them, Vinoteka Movia also offers various plates of delicacies to round things up, including some gorgeous and perfectly sliced “pata negra”, the king of Spanish cured hams, but also local charcuterie, cheese and Italian mortadella, for example. Now, orange wines are not for everyone. Some may actually be turned off by their semi-oxidized aromas: instead of appreciating expressions of honey, tropical nut, cooked apple and hazelnut, they may think this wine has passed its age or has been left opened on the counter for too long, thus this wood varnish and linseed oil smell and flavor.

It’s alright, no panic… You are entitled to your taste, Borut won’t hate you or eat you up! He is prepared with about every type of wine you may like in the house. And yes, all of them Slovenian wines. Go for a flight of white wines, red wines or a mix of both with a tasting of various Movia wines, Movia being a very large producer located in Ceglo, on the western side of Slovenia, close to the order with Italy. Trust me, Slovenia is THE “under-discovered” wine country. The diversity of the terroirs and wine styles may be actually their obstacle to global recognition, because it is quite difficult to any non-Slovenian to decipher what’s written on a bottle: what refers to the area, what to the grape varietal, what to the producer?       
  With its fantastic staff, so attentive and knowledgeable, the quality of the pours (and of the gorgeous glasses used), I can tell you Vinoteka Movia is THE place to go for both newcomers to the world of orange wines and Slovenian wines in general, and aficionados who already know a thing or two on the matter, ready to be wowed and ask for more!

For more info Vinoteka Movia

Posted on April 23, 2023

Welcome to the western part of the province of Asti, between the Tanaro river and the steep Moscato hills, characterized by a predominantly hilly landscape, enriched by historic villages including Moncalvo, Grazzano Badoglio, Montemagno, Vignale, many small pearls in a sea of hills and wine-growing landscapes which have become a UNESCO world heritage site, featuring places of art such as Palazzo Alfieri, the Risorgimento Museum, Palazzo Mazzetti.

In Castagnole Monferrato (Asti) in Piedmont, Italy, we discovered the Montalbera farm, a suggestive structure which, in addition to the production of excellent wines, offers a showroom for wine tastings, relaxation rooms, yoga sessions in the barrel room, swimming pool and jacuzzi overlooking the vineyards.

All around triumphs a true amphitheater of vineyards where many varieties of wines are born (Barbera d’Asti, Grignolino, Viognier, Monferrato Nebbiolo) and “last but not least” the Ruchè docg, a red produced from an indigenous vine, reborn thanks to the research of Franco Morando whose the most selected particles such as Ruché LACCENTO and Ruché LIMPRESA are processed 12 months of wood to obtain the Docg.i.

For three generations, the Morando family has been passionately dedicated to the fruit of their vineyards, animated by a production philosophy that puts wine at the center of everything, enhancing the peculiarities of the vineyards and enhancing their personality. It all started in the 1980s, when the family began (and continues) to acquire land in addition to the current 175 hectares.Thanks to them, the rebirth of Ruchè took place, a red produced from an indigenous vine of the same name typical of eight countries and other varieties (Barbera d’Asti, Grignolino, Viognier, Monferrato Nebbiolo)

Here is an extremely elegant, silky, warm wine on the palate, with a great balance that reflects the international taste of the modern taster and attentive to innovative pleasures, matured in steel tanks and subsequently bottled positioned horizontally at a controlled temperature, Ruchè is a wine with an unmistakable character with a bright garnet red colour, pleasant floral hints of rose and violet, fruity notes of apricot and the spiciness that emerges with evolution making it immediately recognizable in the glass

La Sponda Bresciana del Garda  can be a perfect weekend for those who love nature, history, art and good food. Lovers of food and wine tours and gourmet enthusiasts will find fantastic dishes both in the traditional menus and in the re-edition of centuries-old recipes. 70 km of coastline and 20 km of hinterland await you, where ancient traditions, stories of real life, unique products linked to companies that have been handed down recipes, advice and… exquisite dishes at the table for generations are concentrated.

The Sponda Bresciana halfway embraces the western profile of the great lake mirror, scattering it with landscape beauties, cultural heritage and food and wine excellences, which testify to the union between the products of the earth with the rich quantity of refined lake fish, including pike, whitefish and bleak, here traditionally eaten in brine..

The production of wine and oil is remarkable, one of the leading producers is Perla del Garda whose ambitious idea was to bring the vine back to the morainic hills of our farm. We find Trebbiano di Lugana or Turbiana, Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay and Incontro Manzoni as well as the white wine varieties. Rebo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon represent the types of our red grapes. The harvest is carried out exclusively by hand, selecting the bunches and placing them in small boxes which are quickly brought to the cellar.a.

It is no coincidence that the famous Michelin Guide chose Franciavorta to present all the starred restaurants in 2022, signing a profound sharing in terms of food and wine enhancement, and a sustainable environmental approach, crowned by Consorzio per la tutela del Franciacorta

On the green transition front, Franciacorta has been able to perfect a viticulture leader in sustainability, champion of an agriculture careful to minimize environmental impacts and improve functional biodiversity within the vineyard ecosystem.

Did we say ‘Franciacorta’? … In the heart of this eno-generous land, we find the Azienda Agricola Mirabella Franciacorta which since 1979 has been producing wines that are unique in character, typicality, naturalness and quality. Teresio Schiavi, heart and founder of Mirabella and his sons Alessandro and Alberto, have always been champions of sustainability, closeness to man and his well-being. Mirabella was among the first companies to embrace organic viticulture (Valoritalia certification) a concrete sign of civic and environmental sensitivity

The last jewel by Follador Prosecco dal 1769 is called FOSÉLIOS Millesimato Brut D.O.C.G. Brut D.O.C.G.

Vegan Friendly, fresh and pleasantly savory sparkling wine, decidedly fruity with clear notes of green apple and pear with delicious floral notes on the finish. The audience of young people has been thought of, to whom a further touch of originality is dedicated. in fact, the label offers a surprising luminous effect …. If exposed to LED light: the Follador logo and the name of the wine “light up” to help make the moment of the toast even more festive and engaging As a hymn to light, conviviality and youth, the term Fosélios merges the Greek noun Phos (“Light”) with Eliosche “God of the Sun”.

Cinque Terre, a a short piece of the Ligurian coastline, just West of the border with Tuscany.
Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore are five multi-colored borghi (villages) overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. They are pretty close to each other, a few minutes distance by car or train. Better yet, a boat, weather permitting, will take you back and forth, making an unforgettable five stop mini cruise. If you like to hike, you can also reach them via a beautiful trail and enjoy spectacular sea views.

. White Wine Cinque Terre, the famous white wine of the area that requires mountaineering skills to be produced, given the steep slope on which the grapes grow. facing the sea .

Sciacchetrà, it ‘s time to toast!
Imagine: a secret bottle kept in the cave for years (sometimes more than 30). It is the rich and velvety wine called sciacchetrà. This ancient treasure is resurrected on the occasion of a wedding as the greatest gift the groom’s family can offer to the bride’s family. I had the privilege of opening a bottle that was over 10 years old. Intense color, from golden to amber shades. The taste is a fruity and floral bouquet reminiscent of a Mediterranean garden: hints of dried fruit, apricot jam, nectarines, vanilla, chestnut honey and spices.

SEE FULL ARTICLE (English)

For generations, the Ciociaria companies have been producing sheep and goat cheeses, grazing animals, farm animal rennet. Among the most delicious are Caciofiore, Pecorino di Picinisco, Conciato di San Vittore, the Marzolina slow food presidium. To accompany a “pecorinoso” dish, nothing better than a glass of the vigorous cabernet produced by Masseria Barone, in the heart of Ciociaria, both the gold Atina “Ricucc” and the Riserva “Marcon”, with their hand-painted label, are perfect companions. journey of Lazio dairy excellence.

Il Cabernet Sauvignon it has been cultivated, since 1860, on the sunny hills that frame the historic center of Atina. After careful harvesting and manual selection of the best grapes, an accurate vinification follows from which this elegant and powerful wine is obtained. A patient aging in French oak barrels allows the development of a complex and intense aroma. Brilliant red with intense garnet reflections. The taste shows sweet tannic notes in balance with a structured and persistent body.

Monferrato is a land made up of beautiful hills (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014), villages, castles and great wine traditions. Few kilometers away are the Turin-Milan (Chivasso east exit) and Turin-Piacenza (Asti east exit) motorways. Of course, to crown the weekend, it is essential to enjoy the gastronomic delicacies of Monferrato. Among the great classics of the Piedmontese tradition, not to be missed, given the favorable season, the tasting of the prized white Alba truffle accompanied by “noble” wines

In the scenic Vigna della Pieve in Cocconato, in addition to Stradivario, the grapes for Thou Bianc, surprising Piedmontese Chardonnay, Sauvignon Relais Bianc and Albarossa are produced. The Barolo Docg Bava and Langhe Nebbiolo are born from the Castiglione Falletto farmhouse in the Langhe, in the province of Cuneo, in the heart of the Scarrone cru. The Piedmont aromatic herbs have always been in the Bava tradition: in particular Malvasia, (Rosetta and Malvasia Rosé), Moscato d’Asti and Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato.

Among vineyards, suggestive villages, sanctuaries of ancient devotion and castles dating back to the 10th century, you will discover the Valtènesi famous for the beauty of the lake and hilly landscape and for the production of rosé wines, whose the characteristic grape variety and great heritage is Groppello. Doc Valtenesi is the wine, a modern and innovative expression of the Garda winemaking tradition, the sales of the first bottles of “Valtenesi” Chiaretto began on a truly romantic date: February 14, 2012, Valentine’s Day. In fact, it is easy to fall in love with this delicate but also seductive rosé …

Just as in the 19th century it happened to the Venetian senator Pompeo Molmenti who, in addition to being a historian and art critic, was also a capable winemaker and agronomist. Pompeo had married a noblewoman who owned a villa in Moniga surrounded by 15 hectares of land. there, among the vineyards overlooking the great lake, Pompeo began to try his hand at the production of Chiaretto, a delicate wine with spicy aromas, enchanting color, excellent balance. and intense fruity notes, excellent when accompanied by savory first courses, fish, meat and medium-aged cheeses.

Chiaretto is nicknamed “the wine of a night”; a name that derives from the personal vinification system put in place in an operation that takes place over the course of a single night, by each producer and which gives each individual Chiaretto a unique color, scent and fragrance.

Il Consorzio Valtènesi Riviera del Garda Classico, promoted by the enterprising Jury Pagani, it protects the cultivation and production of this rich variety of red and white wines that blend harmoniously with a landscape of great charm, among hills, olive trees and lush Mediterranean vegetation.

The excellent combination of Chiaretto with dishes based on lake fish and extra virgin olive oil (all produced in the Garda area) and the intrinsic beauty of the hills of Lake Garda stimulates beautiful trips on the lake. It is no coincidence that “Italia in Rosa”, the largest Italian event dedicated to rosé wines is right here in the precious setting of the castle of Moniga del Garda. http://www.italiainrosa.it

HUA HIN THAILAND, GOOD WINE IN THE TROPICS???

Posted on October 6, 2017

HUA HIN HILLS VINEYARD PROVES IT’S NOT A JOKE…AND WORTH A VISIT!
by Philip Sinsheimer
Photo: Cesare Zucca, Philip Sinsheimer

It’s harvest season and 2017 appears as a challenging vintage in Europe (“a catastrophy” in Italy according to our host Cesare Zucca). Climate has always been a nail-biting stress factor in wine production and the recent warming observations are not helping… Well, not helping everybody! If some predict the growing production of wines in small Northern players such as the UK, Southern European big producers are feeling the heat and are worried. Wine geography has seen many changes with the emergence of “New World” wines of North America, as well as Chile, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa in the Southern hemisphere. But wines of decent quality in tropical countries had never come to my attention… Until the discovery of Mansoon Valley wines in Thailand! During our one month trip in Southeast Asia at the beginning of the year, I had conditioned myself to limited opportunity of interesting wine discoveries. I was ready to enjoy the beers of the various countries visited and an occasional bottle of rather generic imported wine. But, our initial stay in Bangkok at the Centara Grand Central World already gave us a taste of how serious the wine lists were at its various restaurants.
When we visited their sister property Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin , around 3 hours South of Bangkok in the historic royal beach town of Hua Hin.                The Centara Hua Hin  is a magnificent venue designed to evoke the spirit of the 1920s. Colonial influences meet modern-day comforts and soothing views are to be had of the swimming pools or the magic gardens, populated by grass elephants and other animals.

The hotel opened at a time when the new railway line to Malaysia was transforming the sleepy fishing village of Hua Hin into Thailand’s first beach resort.

Sensitively extended and renovated, Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin retains its air of that bygone age of elegance. I had an even greater surprise during our meal at the elegant, yet relaxed Suan Bua restaurant: a local white wine was offered to go along the traditional Thaï dishes, from shrimp with mango salad to roasted duck in red curry.

            I have  to say I was skeptical, but all preconceptions disappeared after a few sips of this Mansoon Valley colombard, both crisp and delicate, with exotic fruit and citrus aromas, along with floral notes. Wow! Perfect pairing with the lemongrass used in the dishes and perfectly cooling to counterbalance the heat of the chilies.I was very curious about it all and the adorable staff of the hotel arranged a visit to the vineyard located less than an hour away. The drive was a beautiful occasion to see a bit of the country side with many fields, mainly pineapple plantations. What a surprise to see in the background of one of the most iconic tropical fruit a well manicured vineyard of over 100 hectars. The surprise does not stop there, as I had the opportunity to tour the property on the back of an elephant (if you’ve never done this, just be prepared, it’s a beautiful, but rather rocky ride). The large and elegant tasting room dominates the valley and one can appreciate the key position of the vineyard that benefits from a cooler micro climate with breezes coming from the hills. This is essential to the production of wines that do not taste “cooked”. It’s also the occasion of learning about who is behind this incredible business operation: a man whose name you may not know, but whose fortunate was made by a beverage you definitely have heard about. No, not wine… Red Bull! Chalerm Yoovidhya is among the richest man in Thailand with a fortune approaching 10 billion US dollars according to Forbes this year. Upon returning from his studies abroad where his taste for wine was developed, Chalerm took up the challenge of growing grapes in his native Thailand and show the world that great wines can be crafted even at the 13th latitude of the northern hemisphere. New World wines are old, new latitude wines are in! Hua Hin Vineyards is actually one of three vineyards he owns, but it serves as the flagship of the Mansoon Valley brand. The winemaker is German born Kathrin Puff, who worked in several wineries in Italy and New Zealand before meeting this tropical challenge with brio. I had the chance to sample a few of the large collection of wines available at the vineyard and all showcased a serious winemaking expertise. A brut blanc de blancs, showacses the delicate a floral notes of chenin blanc, colombard and viognier grapes that compose this traditional champenoise method sparkling. Besides the colombard white, I tried the medium sweet chenin blanc, which was not cloying at all and promised a nice pairing with spicy meats dishes and seafood salads. Among the two high-end “Cuvée de Siam” bottles, made with the best grapes of chosen parcels, I was really impressed with the red, made with the oldest vines of shiraz and sangiovese, aged in French oak barrels and bottled unfiltered. The result: a spicy wine combining medium tanin and long finish (which earned 84 points by Robert Parker). The white was a serious wine, but lacked a bit of the freshness so pleasant in the other more simple whites. To finish on a sweet note, the chenin blanc late harvest with a nice balancing acidity invites to be enjoyed along with seared foie gras, aged gorgonzola or a more local mango, sticky rice and coconut dessert.Good tropical wine is a possibility and Hua Hin is the place to go to check it for yourself!

A CLOSER LOOK AT ROMAGNA…UNIQUE WINES WORTH THE TRIP

By Philip Sinsheimer
Photos by Philip Sinsheimer, Cesare Zucca

Today, the “vino-Phil” that I am will focus on the unsung grace of the wines of this region, overshadowed by Emilia, its twin sister to the West, which rolls on the fame of products as famous as Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, Aceto Balsamico de Modena, Mortadella di Bologna and, for the wines, Lambrusco

I’m pretty sure you’ve heard of it, as it seems to be exported pretty much everywhere. Quite an achievement for a rather peculiar red wine, both fizzy and often sweet. Clearly, not the best bottles are exported… I still need to sip a Lambrusco that I would actually want to drink.Regardless of quality, Lambrusco has acquired fame. But, can you tell me anything about wines from Romagna? Sorry? I can’t hear you… Well, my guess is: not so much. At least, that was my case before discovering this region with my own eyes and mouth! Before, I knew it only for the famous beach town of Rimini (birthplace of Federico Fellini and of beach umbrellas according to some, and the historic city of Ravenna, which served as the capital of the Western Roman Empire (from 402 to 476). But wines, no, “I was dry”, as we say in French, not a clue as to what to expect…
I didn’t have to wait long to be initiated. As soon as we arrived at the charming Fattoria Faggioli where we were offered a red wine which reflected perfectly the delicious home cooked pasta and the general atmosphere: no fuss, big heart, big flavor, frank and bold (photo). It was a Sangiovese which, I was told right away, was the most prized and celebrated red grape of Romagna. Everyone tends to associate the noble grape with Tuscany, the region immediately to the South, with its world-famous Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino.

Even though Sangiovese has not reached those level of notoriety in Romagna, the region can definitely boast of a deeply rooted wine culture. After a few glasses, an old saying came up, revealing the generosity of the Romagnolo people and their love of wine. If a stranger knocks at the door of someone in Emilia, he is offered a glass of water, in Romagna… a glass of wine!. This sense of hospitality connected to wine culture was perfectly exemplified during our visit of the medieval town of Bertinoro. The symbol of this perched little city is its 13th century column with twelve metal rings, named the “column of hospitality” photo). Each ring was associated to one of the local noble families and when a traveler arrived into town and tied his horse to one of the rings, he would automatically become a guest of the family associated to it We didn’t arrive on horses, but were just as warmly welcomed at the beautiful visitor center with an in-depth presentation of the local wines. This was my first encounter with Romagna’s most celebrated white wine: l’Albana, unique to this region. The 2016 “I Croppi” from Celli winery (photo) revealed a white unlike any other. Golden in color, the wine had a serious body and boasted 14° of alcohol. One of the distinctive tastes I noticed was a lingering ripe apple flavor and it felt like it had some tannins. It is actually sometimes called the red wine made in white and it can pair meat dishes as well, if not better than seafood.

We tasted a local 100% Sangiovese, bold and rich with 14.5% alcohol, but my second thrill came with the second white wine we tasted: the 2016 San Pascasio, Romagna Pagadebit DOP from the Campodelsole winery. Unlike the Albana, this white had a vivacious acidity and a refreshing minerality. Aromas and flavors of exotic fruits and elderflower were delicious. I was wowed and seduced immediately. Pagadebit is made from the Bombino Bianco grape, which, unlike Albana, is not unique to Romagna. It can be found in central Italy all the way to Puglia, but it has definite terroir characteristics here in Romagna and must count for at least 85% of the grapes for the Pagadebit di Romagna DOC.
The name is a story in itself. “Paga-debit” – literally “pays your debt” in Italian – comes from the grape’s reputation for being high yielding and a reliable crop for vineyard owners to grow, assuring that each vintage would enable them to pay off their debts. But the latest report regarding the 2017 vintage is rather alarming and almost puts in question the validity of the promising name.
On the positive side, Albana seems to gain some appeal outside the borders of Romagna. On November 25th and 26th 2017, Bertinoro will host the first Albana Trophy to find the best expert of this wine in order to be its ambassador both nationally and internationally. I wish I could go, perhaps you can, I know you should! The little town will be having many events for the occasion. You just cannot miss having a meal at l’Osteria Cà de Bè with a panoramic view of the surrounding hills and fantastic food (still thinking about this rabbit…). The wine collection is also exceptional (photo du mec?) and I really liked the 2016 Albana “Neblina”, produced by Givana Madonia, which had a very pleasant acidity
After my initiation in Bertinoro, I was better armed to appreciate the following tastings of Romagnolo wines. The first one came soon after at the Cantina Poderi dal Nespoli (link? http://www.poderidalnespoli.com/en/), a winery established in 1929 about 16 miles to the South-West of Bertinoro, with a beautiful tasting room and a wide diversity of wines. There was of course various Sangiovese based reds and out of the lot, my favorite was the Prugneto, Romagna DOC, Sangiovese Superiore, made from 100 % Sangiovese grosso: a wine full of life with a bright ruby color, an intense bouquet of ripe red fruit which didn’t translate in the palate into anything jammy, allowing a certain freshness to shine through and soft tannins to carry notes of violet and plum. Yum!
But, once again, my focus was more on the whites. The Campodora, a 100% Albana showcased the typical golden yellow color of the grape and a rich smooth taste of stone fruit and acacia flowers. But what made it shine for me was this beautiful balance between ripeness and acidity. This freshness, I was told, was to be attributed to vines perched at a higher altitude and a careful picking of the grapes in the morning, before it got too hot. Their Pagadebit (blended with 15% of Sauvignon Blanc) was fresh and vivacious with a floral nose and a crisp finish. Besides those two established whites in Romagna, we had the chance to discover a third one, called Famoso, in reference to the name of the grape which it was made of exclusively. Ironically, this indigenous grape from Romagna has been rediscovered in the last ten years or so after a period of abandonment. Fame comes and goes I guess. And what a flamboyant come back this was in the glass with this 2016 vintage: totally charming white, light, with only 11.5° alcohol, but intense with its floral aromas, notes of tropical fruit, and a long, clean, lip smacking finish. Cesare and I fell in love with this rarity and decided to buy a few bottles to take home and share with others. In spite of its name, Famoso won’t be in the aisle of your supermarket anytime soon! Look for it at your specialty wine store, but better yet, plan a trip to Ravenna.
If you have the chance to go in the summer during the Festa Artusiana in Forlimpopoli, your will be able to discover the beautiful Casa Artusi  (where you can take traditional cooking classes, as well as learn about one of the legends of Italian cookery in the name of Pellegrino Artusi whose monumental La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene was first printed in 1891 with 700 regional recipes.                                                                                                                                                                   One stand had me taste an Albana Passito, sweet and intense, beautifully balanced with just enough acidity to make you want to have another sip. This final tasting note still lingers in my mind and the unique wines of Romagna will have me go back again, that is for sure.

Travel articles and hotels reviews by Philip Sinsheimer

LOS ANGELES

CHICAGO

LUANG PRABANG

  BUDAPEST                       BANGKOK                          CASCAIS

Thailand, Hua Hin Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas
by Phlilip Sinsheimer
Photo:Cesare Zucca

Thailand, Hua Hin Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas

by Phlilip Sinsheimer
Photo:Cesare Zucca

Thailand.
After a few days in Hua Hin city,
I checked in for 2 nights at the Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas about 30 minute drive south in a super quiet locality called Pranburi. Even though unlucky with unexpected rain, the stay was just fantastic.

The villas are super spacious, comfortable and private.
Didn’t use the private pool to cool off from the sun, but after a long relaxing hot bath in the outdoor tub.

The food was awsome: just loved the breakfast buffet with various both Thaï and Western treats. Not the widest variety ever, but no one should be frustrated and everything was top notch. Who needs 90 items if half of them are disappointing.The à la carte menu of the restaurant with ocean view had me have the best Thaï food so far: true flavors with excellent ingredient sourcing. Loved the local Pranburi squid, partially sun dried for a great flavor and texture.

Killing time inside the villa, reading, watching TV, catching up with email left no time to boredom. The staff just couldn’t be nicer and professional. Stepped out the resort to have a long walk along the ocean. The beach has been washed out on large portions, but discovered abot 7km South a beautiful beach. Just outside the resort I had my favorite foot massage ever at Mali massage for a mere 300 Bahts. In the village great moment on a terrace with a Leo Beer and snacks. Everyone in town seems relaxed and someone offered a free ride back to the hotel.
Loved that place.

Teatro Lirico Giorgio Gaber – Milano

IVia Larga, 14, 20122 Milano
info@teatroliricogiorgiogaber.it

Tickets from 30 euros on sale at the Theater box office and online
www.teatroliricogiorgiogaber.it

SEE FULL ARTICLE ( english)

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