Category Archives: Food

Call them CUOCHI (cooks) …not CHEFS !

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Great party on October 13th,14th at the picturesque village Villa Santa Maria (Chieti) located on the top of the beautiful region of Abruzzo, Italy.
The patron of the village is San Francesco Caracciolo, born here in 1563, considered to be the patron of all the cooks of the world. As a matter of fact, in 1560 the Caracciolo family built the first cooking school, the idea was born from the practice of the hunters to challenge themselves in the kitchen as cooks and waiters returning from hunting. The goal was to train the court cooks and the nobles of the time. In Via Roma you can visit the museum where you can retrace the history of the school.
The 2018 FESTA DEI CUOCHI (Feast of Cooks) is celebrating this year its 40th anniversary and will boast the best of the local and international cuisines along with music performances,, meetings, show cooking and well-known Italian TV celebrities and of course the cooks who will prepare their best dishes in the central square of the village.
“Here we are at an important birthday – says mayor Pino Finamore – the 40th anniversary of the Feast of Chefs! A satisfaction for the whole country and for all the Abruzzo that has managed to keep intact such a beautiful tradition. The long history that embraces Villa Santa Maria is an element of great culture, a heritage that we must carry forward and deliver to future generations, so as to celebrate many other birthdays! “.
As always, there will be the usual appointment of the “Open Doors” at the prestigious Istituto Alberghiero Giovanni Marchitelli, national excellence that is based in the Abruzzi area: this school, founded in the early 1900s, professionally trained chefs who bring the kitchen Italian around the world.
Do not miss the calendar of meetings and show cooking! At the Festa dei Cuochi there will be the last winner of the Masterchef program, Simone Scipioni who will prepare a recipe that is still top secret. Also scheduled a “Salotto del Gusto” with the nutritionist Corrado Pierantoni who will give an overview together with the beloved Rocco Pagano, former player of Serie A of Pescara, entitled “We train at the table”: a chat about the correct diet to follow and on the secrets that all athletes must respect to be always fit and full of energy. Following the inviting aromas of the kitchen of Sabatino Lattanzi, executive chef of Zunica 1880 Ristorante & Hotel: a show cooking in which will be presented a kitchen that will amaze and conquer all palates, even the most demanding.
Sunday, as usual, will start with a visit to the Istituto Alberghiero Marchitelli and demonstrations of the skill of the students followed by their teachers. At the same time, the main street of the town will be filled with stands, tasting tables and products all made in Abruzzo: a long corridor full of sweet and savory regional delicacies! In the afternoon there will be a particular …
Test of the Cook: four mayors of the area, two of the hinterland and two of the coast, will challenge each other by preparing a typical mountain recipe and a typical recipe of the sea; the winning couple will be chosen by a special jury, led by chef Pino Finamore, as well as mayor of Villa Santa Maria. Also on Sunday, you can attend an interesting meeting on the history and preparation of traditional recipes that see among the main ingredients the native wines of the region.I had the opportunity to participate at last year edition , had a great time and finally asked to ‘cuochi’ what would be the difference between a cook and a chef .The chef prepare complicate dishes that look amazing and appeal to the view…We, cooks, make our traditional dishes that just taste great!
Between the sponsors, the famous Pasta De Cecco, a world-renowned brand for the production of durum wheat pasta and the great Tollo Wines, one of the largest wineries in central and southern Italy, now a leader in numbers and quality for organic wines in a BIO variety of white, red and rosè.
see you at
LA FESTA DEI CUOCHI October 13th,14th
Villa Santa Maria (Chieti)
Italy

LET’S TALK ABOUT PORCINI MUSHROOMS!

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Chef Stefano Maddalin, cadorino by birth, after 5 years of hotel school and various experiences around Italy, he is currently taking care of the restaurant La Žìria, located at the Hotel Monaco Sport Hotel, Santo Stefano di Cadore, in the province of Belluno,Italy.
I met him in his native village, a magical location in the heart of Val Comelico, ideal to spend the holidays in complete freedom, surrounded by wilderness of the majestic Dolomites Mountain.
Stefano showed up with a beautiful basket of porcini mushrooms just delivered minutes before.
Our conversation went obviously right to the ‘king of mushroom’ Let’s talk about porcini then.
Where to find?
Preferably in the fir woods.
How to catch?
Simply use your hands and a small knife. first digging the heart, then reaching the root and cutting with the knife.
How to carry at home?
Use a wicker basket, possibly with wide intercom, so the spores can pass through  the cracks and return to sow the ground.Never store them in plastic bags.
How to clean? Remove the earth with a small knife, then brush the remaining dirt with a small brush. Never throw them underwater because they get damaged.

 

How to cook?
As you prefer: deliciously raw in salads, cut very thin and garnished with fresh lettuce, cherry tomatoes or simply sprinkled with parmesan, salt pepper and lemon or the way I cooked them tonight, as a stuffing, with ricotta and onion

 

 

to fill our traditional casunzei, home-made pasta ravioli seasoned with poured butter and a little scratch of poina, typical smoked cheese from our territory.
A local dish to pair porcini ?
Typically cervo in salmì, dear slowly marinated and cooked with red wine and spices, to take away that wild taste, a common mistake is to sprinkle on some lemon, I don’t like that, I prefer to garnish or top with cocoa, raspberries or blueberries.
Let’s imagine that you are the guest of honor on the final episode of TV Master Chef, what would you create to impress the audience?
Well, I worked in starred restaurants, where the dished and the presentation could be very laborious, but personally I prefer the simplicity, a dish where the ingredients are synonymous of reality and they  are not disguised by other flavors.
So, what is never in your fridge?
Frozen foods, preservatives, I love my cuisine to be the most fresh, real and natural as possible.
A twist of your traditional mountain cuisine?
Canederli as a dessert. Canederli are bread dumplings and can be considered part of ‘cucina povera’ (cuisine of the poor), as they are made of simple and inexpensive ingredients: stale bread moistened with milk and bound with eggs and a small amount of flour. I sweeten them and topped with berries jam and elevated them to a tasty dessert.Text and photos by Cesare Zucca

 

 

 

 

PORTICO DI ROMAGNA. Chef’s Paradise.

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Welcome to Al Vecchio Convento a so called Albergo Diffuso, which best can be translated to “Spread out Hotel”, situated in Portico di Romagna a medieval village , in the Appennine Hills between Florence and Ravenna in Tuscan Romagna.
In the kitchen you’ll find the men of the Cameli family: dad Giovanni with his two sons, Massimiliano and Matteo and the flamboyant mamma Marisa


Their cuisine is real, simple, never boring.
I tried a Matteo’s masterpiece:
a creamy tagliatelle alla canapa with basil, literally melting in my mouth.
Then the amazing crema di ortiche, a nettle soupy cream enriched with potatoes , onions and fresh herbs. The hotel is famous for his restaurant and the real , simple yet sophisticated menu, not to mention those Marisa’s cakes…
Experimenting a Albergo Diffuso means living the town the nontouristytourist way having as neighbors local inhabitants and letting yourself being absorbed by the relaxed rythm of local life. I met with Chef/Owners Matteo and Massimiliano Cameli, who not only manage the venue, but also promote the territory while organizing cooking courses that provide the Guests with the amazing discovering of the great local food culture  and learning how to make typical, Italian recipes such as home-made pasta, risotto, truffle, mushrooms, home baked bread and pizza while Massimiliano will take you on wine and gastronomy tours discovering local wine and olive oil producers,They organize horse-riding, trekking, cycling in the National Park, excursions to the Art-city Ravenna.and all levels Italian language courses, in the suggestive old Canon’s house, on top of the village, not to mention the exciting truffle hunts guided by Matteo and his dogs. Every year Portico hosts Chef Sotto il Portico. The event, organized by the Pro Loco Portico di Romagna in collaboration with Al Vecchio Convento, is a cuisine bonanza featuring a valange of international chef sharing their culinary creations with visitors. A festive meeting of different culture and tastes. In this year team Laura Verhust, pastry chef of Madam Bakster https://madambakster.be/ in Gant, Belgium prepared two vegan dishes, lemon avocado pie with almond crust and rusberry coulis .A warn rice pudding cooked in homemade almond milk, fresh vanilla and wild berries. Both no gluten, no sugar, no fat, no lactose, no butter, no eggs and…miracosly delicious. Argentine born Carlos Horacio Gimenez representing Ryotek Restaurant in Rykiavick, Iceland, served a shared tuna with avocado, picked melon, fresh coriander and amarillo pepper that he brought with him from South America. Omar Gallego from Barcelona cooked a crunchy taco with pork cheek cooked in red wine, coriander, tomato, garlic and ajoli. I wanted something easy to eat, easy to go, he said, that could perfectly go with a nice beer.
From Stockholm, Axel Zuber food scientist, restaurant Kitchen inspector of kitchens loves to cook , For his fifth time in Portico, he created a piatto per bambini a colorful dish for kids: kinda a homemade hot dog style sausage in a salted croissant happily paired to colored vegetable cubes made with vegetables.
Encocado de bacalao was the cod dish made by Marco Alvarez who likes fusion between dishes of different nationalities like Thailand and Ecuador. His dish was garnished with pea pureè, spicy coconut, corn sauce in Aonoriko seaweed crust.
Fabio Jesus, from Sintra, Portugal, works with known Bartlett catering. He prepared a Vino Santo and peach cheesecake, watermelon sorbet, fresh raspberry sauce and roasted white chocolate. You have a lots of different textures, says Fabio, a bit sour, a bit sweet, some alcohol… to party!

Stuli, from Iceland created a summery dish with a lobster and crabs patè floating in a dark green cucumber gaspacho
Was fun to check people s reactions. Some ‘experiments’ were much loved, some…less.
I am talking of Finland Mikael Mihailov’s spicy papaya salad, served with tomato-chilly foam,  caramelized nuts, nitro kaffir lime drops, crispy rice and dried vinaigrette with seaweed. Great intentions, nice presentation, interesting prospectives, but to me the contrasting ingredients were not going anywhere…Some Chefs became instantly popular, like Scottish Scott Forte his ,,, was super requested and pretty soon sold out…So I tried it the next day (there is a lunch time repeat) I wasn’t very impressed, perhaps because the heath of the day didn’t really suit the quite winterish dish.
Let’s go to my favorites!
Croatian Toni Milos, manager of Martinis Marchi restaurant located in a historic castle in Maslinica on the island of Šolta’s west coast, eenchanted the guests and me with his perfectly coocked octopus, pan roasted with leeks, red onions and served over arrugula. (I loved, I had it twice… To British George Gordon Brandford, now adopted by Vecchio Covento, goes my ‘Most Suprising Dish Award’. A vegan watermelon steak served with cucumber, gin granite and crispy tonic water. The watermelon slices were first carefully barbequed then ignated, to obtain an unknowen substancy. The technique was just amazing. I never tasted something like that. Bravo Gorgon!
Last but not the least!
Matteo Cameli from Al Vecchio Covento. To me Matteo in more than a chef, he is a visionary and a poet. His challenging dish was a risotto al fienoI like to run in the morning, Matteo told me, in a very cold day, I had the vision and the comfort of a warm hay essence. I made it, distilled bio hay, added herbal essential oils to obtain a concentrated broth to be cooked with a 7 years old arlecchino rice, garnished by tasty crusty layer of burned goat , garnishing with wild herbs and flowers. I made it, I closed my eyes, tasted it and yes, the aroma of my fields in a sunny day was all there.
I tried his risotto. I rated 9, then I had a bite of those crunchy goat’s milk croutons and the my score went up to 10!
Beside the hotel activities, the venue offers various initiatives like Italian language classes, excursions, vistit to local oil and wine producers, exciting porcini and truffle hunts, cooking courses for the guests who are interested in discovering some secrets of the Italian food culture. It’s possible to do just 1 lesson or 2 or 3 or the whole cooking-week.
A venue, a village and a vacation to remember….
for more info
Al Vecchio Convento, Portico di Romagna, (Forlì) Italy

 

 

 

 

THE ORIGINS, THE SEARCH, THE TRADITIONS, THE SECRETS OF A REFINED CUISINE IN VENICE

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INTERVIEW WITH CHEF DAMIANO BASSANO AT L’ALCOVA, VENICE
Damiano, originally from Salento, began his career in Paris and Strasbourg, followed by Spain and the United States. Traditional Italian flavors combined with unique touches are the distinctive elements of its cuisine. He loves experimenting and creating new combinations. Since two years he has been the as Executive Chef of the renowned restaurant L’Alcova, in the splendid Hotel Ca’Sagredo taking care not only of the restaurant and breakfast menu, but also the rich buffets of special events, such as the one tonight, for the presentation of the book ‘Women’ written by Uruguay born Milton Fernandez.

 

On these occasions, will your menu be inspired to the theme and atmosphere of the event?
Certainly. Today, as a tribute to the latin author, I prepared finger food with roast beef and lime, mini tacos and small empanadas that remind me so much of the tiny Pugliese panzerotti.

 


Let’s talk about fish. Where do you shop?
At the Rialto market. I rely on seasonality and suggestions from my supplier.
From there I decide the menu of the day and make fish dishes that maintain the typical Italian cuisine, always keeping an eye to our international clientele, often with different tastes from ours.
Today, an elderly Venetian told me that this market is becoming increasingly scarce and less stocked. It’s true?
Unfortunately, yes, slowly it is reducing in extension and presence of sellers, a bit like the real Venetians that today are only around 50,000. Even the fishermen confirm that the fish choices have changed and the variety has shrunk. Delicacies like the schie … have become a memory. Today the request is primarily oriented on mussels, clams, sea bream, sea bass, king prawns, tuna, sword.. in other words ‘universally known fish’, available everywhere but preferred by tourists who generally fear experiencing tastes that they do not know.
Sad, right?
Yes, because I think it would be nice to let the customer try the local typicality. I find it genuinely useless to propose in Venice some American scallops, easily available even in New York!
Fruits and vegetables?
Amazingly good. We are supplied by the island of Sant’Erasmo, whose sale and removal was so successful that the Consorzio di Sant’Erasmo opened a sales outlet right here in Venice. We hope for good … too much success sometimes spoiled.
A fish that you love to cook but which you gave up, given the doubtful reception of the international customer?
I have no doubt; the spatula, which I would love to cook especially after my Sicilian experiences. Even my supplier told me ‘Damiano, the spatula is not so difficult to procure, but there is no request, I am sorry … pick up another fish’.
It reminds me a bit of the phenomenon of globalization. There are no artisan shops because of the large chains promoted by consumerism. So mothers or grandmothers who cook in a trattoria, are not there anymore?
Well, I find them when I go back to my Salento. There is still some small osteria without a specific menu. Grandma cooks daily 2 or 3 dishes according to what she found at the market. And they are all spectacular!
Do you cook at home?
Almost never, I prefer to go out with friends, I rarely make a salad and if I am really  in the mood, I make my favorite dish: spaghetti tomatoes and basil. I love simplicity!
Never in your fridge …
Prepacked mayonnaise and mustard.
Always in your fridge …
Cherry tomatoes.

 

The top dishes of tonight’s menu?
Spaghetti, zucchini and wild mint creamed with bottarga, then fresh sea bass sauteed with salt, oil and thyme and served on a summer panzanella with red onion and fresh gherkin.
So there is a touch of Mediterranean heritage in your kitchen for the Serenissima?
Of course, here I revive perfumes and tastes that I always keep in my heart, naturally adapting them to an international clientele of a certain level.
About the Mediterranean thing… try my semifreddo with basil and my apricot mousse with rosemary ….

DINNER AT THE ALCOVA, THE RESTAURANT OF THE LUXURIOUS HOTEL CA’SAGREDO, VENICE
Prosecco on the table, (with which I adopted with throughout the all dinner) and small varied sandwiches, including a delicious black fennel bread.                                                                  As a starter a pie of beets, figs, almonds and mini melon balls. I’m not a big lover of sweet and sour, but I found it pleasant.

 

Here is comes a more determined and tasty stewed moscardino with polenta, a typical Venetian dish. As pasta dishes, I tried the spaghetti with zucchini and mint, creamed with bottarga. Honestly I found the flavors a bit ‘disjointed, perhaps not very connected, I definitely preferred spaghetti with cuttlefish ink served with crispy cuttlefish, al dente, tasty, light and not too saturated of fishy flavor.                                                                              Then a chef recommendation: fresh sea bass served on squares of a slightly acetate panzanella bread garnished with cherry tomatoes, cucumbers and red onions.

 

The pairing with the panzanella didn’t really appealed to me, but I respect the intentions of Bassano, who’s Salento’s origins like to add to the menu a little of Mediterranean cuisine and the aroma of the local herbs, as in the grand finale:
a mousse with basil and a spectacular rosemary semifreddo.
Fresh and refreshing, with an extra point to the rosemary!

 

Restaurant L’Alcova

Hotel Ca’Sagredo

Are you a pizza lover… but intolerant to lactose ?

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So many of us cannot deal with lactose or have difficulty digesting milk and dairy products …Here the solution!
‘A pizza, the brand made in Naples that distributes homemade artisan pizzas at home and throughout Italy, launches a lactose-free pizza margherita, which can be consumed in complete safety without having to give up the unmistakable taste of Neapolitan artisan pizza margherita and a red pizza, or oil and tomato. Margherita pizza without lactose ‘A Pizza is prepared with lactose less than 0.01% soft wheat flour 00, water, tomato, extra virgin olive oil, salt, basil. It has a long leavening dough prepared by the skilled hands of the master pizza makers. The proposal for intolerant people is also enriched by the Pizza Rossa: one of the most traditional and traditional flavors, to be consumed as it is or to be seasoned with the most diverse ingredients according to personal taste.
These pizzas preserve intact the nutritional values, the taste, the taste and the fragrance of the True Neapolitan Pizza.
The distribution of ‘A Pizza covers the whole national territory through the express courier: the product is packaged in a special “frozen pack” that allows you to maintain the right temperature for 48 hours. In the main cities’ A Pizza is delivered within 24 hours of its shipment.
Enjoy your healthy pizza!

Making tasty dishes without salt, fat and sugar ?

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I met Marcello in Venice a while a ago, Back then he introduced me to his revolutionary concept La Cucina del Senza® a non salt-sugar-fat cuisine.
So, it is possible to make tasty dishes without the addition of salt, fat and sugar ?
YES! According to Lucia and Marcello Coronini, journalists, food critics and life companions and authors of the new book MANGIARE CON GUSTO E VIVERE 100 ANNI  EATING WITH TASTE AND LIVING 100 YEARS       Researches have selected different foods with substances able to improve the quality of life and lengthen their life. Several books have been written on the importance of these foods called smart, longevity or life saving, able to protect against diseases such as diabetes, cardiovascular problems, hypertension, tumors, etc.
70 recipes carefully studied by the authors who inserted 80 LIFE SAVERS ingredients
 into the dishes, a splendid marriage was born with La Cucina del Senza, eliminating fat, salt and added sugar, balancing the metabolism, disinfecting the body and helping to eliminate excess fat naturally, the use of life savers enhances the effects on health. Coronini himself lost 5.5 kg without going on a diet and his pressure has normalized.
Some lifesavers will surprise the reader like the coffee that you do not expect or the bargain that everyone thinks is rich in sugar, while in reality it contains only 4 g in 100, and then the caper that has incredible properties and to finish the dark chocolate and “authentic” mustard. In addition to that, you will find new ways of cooking that simplify and lighten the preparation
Here one of my fav
HUMMUS WITH BEETROOTS AND CHICKPEAS
Hummus is a vegetable sauce that has Lebanese origins and is widespread throughout the Mediterranean (Egypt, Greece, Syria, Turkey and Israel). This version, of a beautiful cyclamen color, contains ingredients with important nutritional properties. If not consumed immediately put it back in the refrigerator in an airtight container, it will be stored for a couple of days. The thaina sauce is a sauce made from sesame seeds.
INGREDIENTS AND HOW TO COOK

500 g of drained canned chickpeas
or 300 g of dried chickpeas
200 g of already cooked beets
100 g of thaina sauce
2 cloves of garlic
1 small red onion
1 teaspoon of cumin
1 tablespoon of spicy paprika  or spicy chilli powder
3-4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil of olive
1 lemon
1 tablespoon of thyme or parsley

Cook the dried chickpeas if you use them in water without salt added after have left them soaking for one night, if for reasons of time instead you have to use chickpeas in box, wash them under running water warm or immerse them for 3 minutes in boiling water (that will go away light taste of closed and you will eliminate the added salt); drain and remove them the external skin. Cut the beets into pieces and put them in the mixer with chickpeas, the thaina sauce, the private garlic of the soul, the chopped onion, lemon juice, paprika, cumin and oil. Add little with little water to give the right consistency: it must not be neither too hard nor too soft. Blend at intervals Sprinkle with fresh thyme or parsley. This sauce is perfect with bread croutons, hot wholemeal bread and paired with cooked vegetables.

MEET THE GRILLO AND CHOOSE HAPPINESS

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The seasonal climatic conditions in 2017 were normal. Winter was relatively cool and dry as was Spring, leading to an early budding of the vines. Temperatures in the summer months were typical for the region, with the exception of a small four-day heat wave at the beginning of August when highs reached up to 44°C. The grapes were left thankfully healthy in spite of the spike in heat. 
The plants had developed a balanced state between leaf and cluster due to the normal conditions throughout the year, so the grapes were sheltered with enough shade from the leaves to withstand the sun while still ripening very well. The aromatic and phenolic properties of the grapes were perfect

Today I choose Grillo Costadune Sicilia DOC 2017 
Grillo It is a white grape variety that is native to and widely diffused across Sicily, but particularly favoured in the Western regions of the island. It grows medium-sized clusters of spherical grapes that have a particularly thick skin. The vines grow best in high sun exposure and sandy soils, which helps it develop a high sugar content. Harvest generally takes place in the last two weeks of September. The wines end up with a higher alcohol level, a pleasantly wide range of aromas and great structure and minerality in the mouth. A native white variety that grows in vineyards overlooking the sunny beaches of Southwestern Sicily. It is a wine with a typical Mediterranean character, intensely mineral yet fresh due to the medium textured calcareous soils and altitudes ranging from 80 to 200 m above sea level.Ageing takes place in steel for three months and then bottle for another three resulting in a fresh and mineral wine with strong notes of citrus and basil.  It hits the mouth with intense flavours of the seaside, fresh fruit and an underlying sapidity.
It is best paired with those spectacular sicilan grilled sardines, roasted vegetables, fresh cheeses and white meats.

for more info
Mandrarossa

MATERA, Italy. The city, the Sassi, the magic

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Matera is one of the oldest cities in the world. By day the sunlight enhances its white. At night, it looks like an immense nativity set up under the starry sky.
Its quarter I Sassi, ancient dwellings dug into the tufo, where the roofs serve as a base for the houses that have developed on higher levels. These were dug entirely into the rock and represent one of the most striking examples of exploitation of natural resources to obtain suitable conditions for the life of a large community. In the caves often lived more families and despite the lack of space, almost all daily activities took place in the cavities of cave-houses: from handicrafts to weaving, from food storage to animal care (dogs, chicken, pigs, horses and donkeys were living with the family as primitive source of heating). The temperature was constant and guaranteed by the characteristics of the sea tufo , so the inhabitants did not suffer too much from the cold in winter and found a shelter from summer heat. This way of life for years has been seen as a sign of backwardness and incivility. The inhabitants of the Sassi were often considered as primitives living like animals. In 1952 Sassi was considered “the Italian national shame”and abandoned in the late ’50s, Sassi was able to be redeemed until they became Unesco World Heritage in and will be the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Its amazing scenario has been used s a set for Mel Gibson “The Passion” Pier Paolo Pasolini “The Gospel According to Matthew “King David”, Christ The Lord: Out of Egypt “, and the remake of “Ben-Hur “.

I took the Gran Tour of Sassi,
an intense 3 hours guided tour and I learn so much about the history of this amazing city. The tour begins in front of the Cathedral, in the upper part of the City, and then goes deeper into the tangle of narrow alleys, caves, cellars, churches, small gardens, tiny squares and districts. I was able to discover in detail these unusual dwellings partly carved out of the limestone. It s a long walk, so wear comfy shoes.

Matera is also well now for its cooking tradition, a classic example of Italian peasant cuisine, using free ingredients combined with a fair amount of labor and know-how to  turn an odd edible food into a delectable dish.
Here my choices:
 ll Terrazzino  
View, ambience, real food, rich menu, moderate prices and …did I mentioned the view? Welcome to Il Terrazzino, one of the oldest deck restaurant in Sassi Eustachio Persia welcomed me with a dish of local cold cuts, including my fav lampascioni, bulbs of a common wildflower in southern Italy, then I ordered lamb, and…surprise! iIt came wrapped in yellow strawpaper.
‘This place used to be a cantina, told me Eustachio, just wine, no food.So people used to cook it at home and take it here, all wrapped up in paper tto keep it warm, then tear the bag and eat it paired with a nice glass of wine.Then came the crapiata a soup of different legumes, cereals and potatoes typical of the Basilicata cuisine of rural tradition, prepared in great quantity every year on the first day of August in the district La Martella, close to the cultivated fields and served to the inhabitants. Eustachio took me downstairs, to the 17 century cellar, which incorporates the typical architecture of the Sassi and was refurbished to retrace moments of daily life of the peasant life,

Baccus
Simple yet elegant restaurant Located in the Sassi area, Baccus is well know for its Chef Carlo Pozzuoli who likes to reinterpretate typical local dishes and flavors of the past  in a modern way.

Starting with super crunchy chips of red peppers, followed by fagots of ziti with cream of yellow and red peppers, bundled in a slice of sweet scamorza cheese topped by goat ricotta curlS.

A soupy Dish with tagliolini pasta with black and white chickpeas, considered ideal fro pregnant women, since it contains a lot of iron.
The menu dedicates an attentive search of local herbs, like the cicoriella, the sivone and other fresh leaves variously used in cooking: in salads, minestrone, simply boiled with oil and lemon, or as a filling of ravioli and pansotti or excellent omelettes.

Carlo and his wife Mariella were wonderful hosts. Not only keeping me company at the table but also surprising me with a taste of a sweet heart shaped Sporcamuso, (begrime the face) a dessert so full of cream that I inevitably ended up with hot pastry cream all over my face.


Da Mario
‘We represent the tradition. My family managed this restaurant since the 50’s’ told me Anna, owner of the popular Ristorante Pizzeria Da Mario ‘Since then we are always been loved by the people from Matera and from all over the world. Many celebrities have eaten here: Richard Gere, Mel Gibson just to mention few’                                         

I went there for lunch and followed Anna’s suggestions, starting with a tasty orecchiette alle rape with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs, then I tried home made strascinati pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms and garnished with the typical crunchy peperone crusco, fried red pepper. Da Mario is know for its pizza. I tried a baby Margherita, perfectly cooked. ‘I love my town, peaceful and quiet, I run the restaurant a cosy BnB called Sassi Belvedere although sometimes I need some noise… some that’s why I have a place in Milan, where I go , like an escape little vacation, but then I am happy to be back in my Lucania ( the ancient name of Basilicata) Sorry I still call it Lucania.. perhaps it’s because I like the old things…
I don’t blame her..
Where I stayed.
Residence San Gennaro, located in the inner courtyard of the old “neighborhood”, once the fulcrum of the days of the inhabitants
Super friendly host Francesco delighted me with anecdotes about the city, gave me tips took me to the prehistoric hypogeous cave below the residence, embellished with a precious Nativity and prepared a great breakfast that included fresh local products. I stayed in Guerricchio suite, that has a kitchenette, a delightful double bedroom, a private bathroom and a cute little balcony to enjoy the view on the enchanting Sassi of Matera. It is At the entrance an artistic work of great value welcomed me. “Girasoli di Guerricchio”, a Lucanian artist to whom the suite is dedicated.

I also loved

Casa Noha
An amazing gateway” to the city, charting its history thanks to an innovative communication project, where the walls, the ceilings and the floors will take to an extraordinary journey through the history of Matera from its origins to the present day.
MUSMA
(Museum of Contemporary Sculpture Matera)
This unique museum provides the perfect environment for the symbiosis of sculpture and the characteristic carved sites in the Sassi; the exhibition galleries, in fact, consist not only of the rooms of the Palazzo, but also the vast hypogea, where the works of art are revitalized by the strength and beauty of the surrounding rock hewn spaces

 

Naples. Di Martino Pasta Heaven

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Naples:
I discovered a real gem!

 

Two floors of pasta Heaven, right in the middle of the Piazza Municipio, destined to become one of the most beautiful square in Europe, right in the center of enchanting Naples, facing the spectacular Castello dell’Ovo,  overlooking the blue Mediterranean sea and boasting 120 different kind of famous pasta di Gragnano, to buy, to taste, either on-site or to go, while cruising the streets of one of the most magical city in the world…

What else you looking for?

Welcome to Sea Front Di Martino Pasta Bar. Since 1912, three generations of the Di Martino family have owned and run the company in Gragnano, an ancient town that over five hundred years is producing the highest quality of pasta using the best durum wheat semolina pasta mixed to the local spring water, while the slow extrusion of the dough through broze die, gives to pasta a very rough surface able to hold the sauces and keep the tasty flavors.


Di Martino launched a revolutionary style to fully appreciate the food that truly represents the traditional Neapolitan cuisine: the one and only spaghetti.
Let ‘s start from the beginning. A street level super furnished pasta store and lovely hostesses, welcome Neapolitans and tourists.

 

 

 

Here you can buy the all formats of pasta (over one hundred) among cute gadgets like magnets, aprons and exclusive boxes designed by Naples lovers designers Dolce & Gabbana.

 

 

On the corner, you will find a takeaway window that sales (for only 5 Euros!) a box generously filled of perfectly cooked spaghetti with the richest tomato sauce that literally floods on a slice of bread on the bottom, renewing the traditional way to do the scarpetta.

 

It’s called La Devozione (The Devotion), a tribute of sacred and profane to give solemnity to His Majesty Spaghetti, insanely loved by the Neapolitans and foodies all over the world. Caged in an original and eco-friendly box, either traditionally back and yellow version or the newest designers patterns, there are 130 grams of Gragnano PGI spaghetti Di Martino, stirred in a generous tomato sauce, extra virgin olive oil, basil, a clove of garlic (rigorously toasted with its peel, as the Chef Gianluca Pisacane told me…)

then sprinkled with fresh basil ripped by hands. Do not use a knife, that could oxidize the basil and finalized with a slice of bread placed on the bottom of the container. All prepared espresso under your eyes, in just 8 minutes, 4 in the boiling water and 4 in the sauce, giving everyone the opportunity to spy the tricks that will make a great pasta dish.Let’s go upstairs. On the first floor you will find the open kitchen restaurant furnished with seats at the desk where you can appreciate a menu based entirely on Gragnano’s IGP Di Martino pasta, from antipasto to dessert, Under your eyes, Chef Pierpaolo Giorgio, starred Peppe Guida’s disciple and its team will prepare an amazing variety of pasta dishes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I started with is the true protagonist in its more than 120 formats. Ideal place for a sophisticated dinner, but also for a quick-lunch, alone or with friends
The direction of the kitchen, the consultancy, the authoritative and wise as skilled longa manus is Peppe Guida. At the stove, in a pleasant way interacting with the gourmets who sit around him and who observe everything with gluttonous curiosity, the good chef, of and pampering to the customer begin with a welcome from the kitchen, which is revealed in a triple taste of delights whose pivot consists of creatively interpreted pasta.
To the gallant Pierpaolo entrusting us, impeccable service with specific cutlery for each dish, and equally impeccable suggestions of combinations, starting from Mista Corta with crustaceans and their bisque to the traditional Devozione

 

Sea Front Di Martino Pasta Bar is located in Piazza Municipio, 1, 80133 Naples
Ph +39 081 1849 6287
For more info click here

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ACUNZO, where the Queen reigns…

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T he first real “tomato and mozzarella” pizza dates back to the mid-1800s, but the official recognition and approval as a specific product of deserved value dates back to 1889, on the occasion of the visit to Naples of the sovereigns of Italy King Umberto I and the Queen Daisy. The story tells us that Raffaele Esposito, the best chef of the time, created for the occasion an extraordinary pizza “tomato, mozzarella and basil” whose colors deliberately recalled the colors of the Italian flag. The pizza was called Margherita. and dedicated to the Queen.Today pizza is pure science, where the research and the mixing of the different flours gives life to a light, tasty and fragrant dough.Today the art of the Neapolitan ‘pizzaiuolo’ (pizza master chef) is a World Heritage!

Unesco‘s 12th Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage responded positively to Italy’s submission, since flipping the dough, topping it and baking it in a wood-fired oven is part of the country’s cultural and gastronomic tradition. The master pizza chef takes care of his preparation with a maniacal attention, conditioning his life to the rhythms that the processing, leavening and handling required by the dough.
                                 

Acunzo is a historical pizzeria since 1964, located in the posh area of Vomero, in Naples.
The menu is divided in 3 sections: Classic, Special, Gourmet. A celebration that spans from the classic pizzas made with the original ingredients to the newest innovative and elaborated versions.The slow leavening of the dough for over 12 hours, is one of the strengths of this place that was among the first to join the traditional pizzas some more innovative creations, the result of hybridization of the pizza with the vegetable side dishes of the kitchen Neapolitan house such as friarielli, peperoni, and that has been able to gain for this reason the appreciation of the Vomero people.

Acunzo is part of Naples history, simply mentioning its iconic Pulcinella 1969 (the traditional Neapolitan puppet) boasting mezzanelli pasta with meat sauce ,bufala mozzarella, ricotta cream, mushrooms, eggs, ham, 24 months old parmesan cheese and creole pepper.
II was curious about the attuali ( contemporary) pizzas, so I tasted (and loved) the SVB  with local salsiccia,  seasonable greens, burrata cheese from Andria in a soft cornice , compact and crispy.FinallyI had to try the Acunzo hit: their pizza e pasta, stuffed with a succulent mix of pasta, cheese, tomato sauce.eggs and basil.
A great full meaI, I must say !

The list is enormous and tempting… a good reason to go back!
Pizzeria Acunzo

 

 

 

An organic and vegan toast up on the hills of Marche, Italy

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Welcome to the enchanting hills of the Marche region where the past lives in the present and the soundness of its traditions merges with the strength of the innovations in a constant striving for quality in its wines.Today I choose the winery CIU’ CIU’,located in S. Maria in Carro, Offida in the province of Ascoli Piceno. Ciù Ciù wines are the authentic expression of the company’s commitment and tradition, the result of research and quality in both the vineyard and in the cellar, but also of a natural wine-growing ecosystem of quality with a “terroir” (microclimate, soil and subsoil) that is unique and irreplaceable. The hospitable and elegant Ciù Ciù showroom is open to anyone wishing to embark upon a tasteful experience such as this: the red and white organic wines are matched with samplings of products typical of the Marche tradition, bringing out the best in them and offering an explosion of taste in perfect harmony. If you want to live this experience, book your tasting. A range of organic red wines that express quality, derived from the natural wine-growing ecosystem of the range of hills that slope downwards from Offida to the sea. In 2017 Rosso Piceno Bacchus has been voted by Forbes one of the best 10 european red wines These red wines owe their bouquets, tannin and colour to distinguished grapevines. These genuine products harmonically embrace the most modern and state-of-the-art wine making techniques to enhance the quality of the wine. The Rosato is a delicate organic and vegan wine rosé wine with an intense colour and a fruity bouquet, which is selected from Sangiovese and Montepulciano grape varieties growing up the “Piceno” hillside. Last but not least , two wonderful sparkling organic Spumante wines boasting a vibrant colours and an intense bouquet; the Pecorino Merlettaie and the Passerina Altamarea, great with Ascolana style stuffed olives and fish courses. Here how to book a Ciù Ciù tasting

An Italian tradition, wrapped by hand…with love.

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Welcome to Dronero: a tiny medieval town in the province of Cuneo, Italy
It all started in 1964 when Celestino e Giuseppina Brignone purchased the previous activity of Munsù Einaudi, a sophisticated pastry chef working in France since1920,

 

 

 

They opened the Pasticceria Brignone and since then three generations of pastry chefs have been taking care of the traditional pastry as well as innovating it with new flavors.
Top of the line is the original totally handmade White Dronerese, created in 1890 and made of two crumbly meringues and a heart of chocolate, rum and custard (the classic recipe) or with Gianduja cream, with Piedmont Hazelnuts IGP. From the preparation of the meringues, to the drilling, to the filling with the sac à poche, to the double wrapping with the classic white or red and green glossy paper… the only utensils used for the production are the hands of expert people working at Brignone cooking a ‘made with love’ Dronerese.

 

 

 

The unexpected lugana

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At 2018 Verona Vinitay, I had a wonderful surprise when I met with Montonale winery that produces Montunal Lugana, made from the selection of the best bunches of Turbiana and takes its name from the vineyards near the small village of Montonale, near southern shore of Lake Garda, a much-visited tourist destination.                                                                     The harvest is performed exclusively by hand, September through the end of October, while the grapes can reach a perfect ripeness thanks to the great sunlight exposure and the good ventilation.
Let me tell you: lugana in not one of my favorite white wines, but I have to tell you that I definitely  loved this one, which was rich in flavour and pleasantly aromatic.
Lugana is a white wine produced between Lombardy and Veneto . An intense pale yellow colour with brilliant hues, offers to your nose intense floral and fruity scents, dominated by aromas of white peach and lemon zest, with balsamic hints of thyme and sage and an intriguing mineral impression of wet. The palate boasts a perfect balance between freshness and concentration with a nice mineral flavour adding elegance and persistence.
It matches the best with whitefish, as trout, perch or the delicate lavarello, one of the most prestigious and appreciated fish of Lake Garda.

 

 

 

 

Here a lavarello recipe from Trattoria La Goccia that offers local dishes prepared according to the typical Lake Garda recipes , such as bigoli with lake sardines and the pike in carpione. There You ‘ll meet with Stefano, an “oste” in the traditional Italian way that entertains and delights the guests with suggestive descriptions of the dishes and anecdotes of the place.
Ingredients:
Lavarello or Perch of Lake Garda
White flour
Onions or shallots
Lemon peel
Toasted almonds
Lugana or Chiaretto wine
Milk butter
Extra virgin olive oil from Lake Garda
Salt
Preparation:
Wash and clean the perch carefully and floss the obtained fish filet to create the husking.
In a pot prepare separately a sautéed onion with extra virgin olive oil and lemon peel. Place the perch in the pot with the addition of butter and simmer with wine until reduced. Place the fish on the plate and add roasted almonds just before serving.

 

I suggest to paired it with the Montonale rosé chiaretto named Rosa di Notte, bright pink colour with slight copper hues, scents of red roses, strawberry and pomegranate stand out in the alluring bouquet. The palate has a silky, velvety texture, glazed by refreshing notes of raspberry and intriguing savoury minerality
Buon appetito!

 

What a (sweet) journey…

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Let me take you to Venice to taste the traditional cake Veneziana. It’s delicately soft on the palate and it’s delicious for breakfast or as an afternoon snack. It’s a mixture made of milk, eggs, flour and butter, topped with sugar and almonds.
Loison created two new tentalizing Veneziana one with chocolate and spices, the other with apricot and spices.
From the Madagascar Vanilla (Slow Food Presidium) to the prized mix of Lampong Black Pepper (Indonesia), Timut (Nepal) and Jamaica, from the Asian turmeric to the South American Tonka beans, with an eye to Cuban and Venezuelan cocoa
Two new delicacies that seem to pay homage to the Serenissima Republic, for seven centuries a crossroads of peoples, cultures and flavors.
The amazing packaging, signed “Sonia Design” showing off images of the lagoon atmosphere, of magnificent traditions and magnificent architecture, taken from ancient postcards kept at the Loison Museum.
The two veneziana will be previewed at Vinitaly, in Verona from April 15th to 18th,
at Area C Sol Agrifood stand A10.
A tasty opportunity to celebrate the 80-year anniversary
of Loison’s sweet journey.

 

 

Royal Highnesses at your table. Since 1467, a story that continues.

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Today I take you to Tenuta Carretta one of the most historic Italian wineries, founded back in 1467 and located in the Roero area, in the South of Piedmont Region, Italy .The property’s vineyards also extend close to the Langhe, such as 2.6 hectares in Barolo on the prestigious Cannubi hill, from which the nebbiolo grapes destined for the production of the celebrated Barolo Cannubi, a wine of grand character, elegance and longevity.Thanks to the vines’ exposure to sun and to the particular microclimate, it is a wine of grand character, elegance and longevity, thanks to the exposure to sun and to the particular climate.

 

Not to mention the iconic 2010 Barolo Cannubi Riserve 100% nebbiolo grapes , with a  minimum refinement of 60 months, of which at least 36 in barrel and 18 in bottle. Enjoy its scent of roses, citrus notes, cacao and spices.

 

 

Yes, Tenuta Carretta is preparing to showcase their wines in the industry’s biggest fairs in Verona, Italy called Vinitaly,  the largest Italian wine show hosting the best winemaking all over Italy
Verona, April 15-18, 2018  at Pavillion 10, Stand R4

Tenuta Carretta is a splendid winery that sets the stage of an amphitheatre of unique and evocative vineyards. They make up a part of the touristic ‘wine mosaic’ through which visitors can follow a guided trail through the vineyards Guided visits to the winery, the elegant Charme Hotel and a welcoming Enoteca – Wine Shop, make up the rest of the mosaic.I saved the best for last…
Two high-end restaurants where your dishes will take to meet  the royalties of the territory: the tartufo bianco di Alba ( Alba’s white truffle) and the porcini.

 

 

 

 

Did I made you eager for all that?
Well, here how to make a reservation to this  Paradise…

 

A ‘NICE AND EASY‘ INTERVIEW WITH CHEF CHRISTOS ATHANASIADIS

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A ‘NICE AND EASY‘ INTERVIEW WITH CHEF CHRISTOS ATHANASIADIS
by Cesare Zucca

Where do you find inspiration to create a dish?
I look at the nature around me. I observe at the seasons, I look at what grows out of the soil, the characteristics of a place, is there a sea, is there a mountain at the area? In general, I look at what nature has given me and take those natural and local resources and create something new.
What convinced you to become a chef?
My grandmother had a big impact on me and influenced much my decision. She passed me on her love for food and the idea of being authentic, all of which helped me find my talent as a chef from a young age.
How do you express your personality in the kitchen?
I have to say I’m strict but very tolerant to mistakes as I believe that we learn the most out of our mistakes. Most of all I try to inspire my fellow chefs to love the kitchen environment even more through the position of a leader and not a manager. Is there a food you love only if cooked by another? Ravioli with anthotyros cheese dipped in butter that my grandmother used to make.
How relevant is the greekness in your dishes?
Hugely relevant.
All of my dishes and all I create spring up from the greekness that had been developed since the day I was born and have intimately within me.

What or Who inspires you? Why?
I get inspired by geometry, shapes, clean lines and colours. If I had to name someone I would say Thomas Keller because his dishes are very constructed, because of his creativity and the way he converts a food scene through his unique “plasticity” and last but now least I really like his personality.

 

 

 

Connery, Monroe, Elvis…Nice n Easy menu has often stars names. Why?
Because the creativity element that stands out within the nice n’ easy restaurants is authenticity. We believe that the old era of Hollywood is one of the most authentic ones in the history of arts. We’ve tried to find elements that each Hollywood star liked and combined those with our plates.

Eros and food, a proven combination.
Your aphrodisiac dish?
Ganache with back chocolate and chilly.
A food we will always find in your fridge and one that we will never find.
You will always find basil because I really love and use it frequently in many of my dishes. You will never find coriander as I’m allergic to it.

You are the guest of honor in the Mater Chef Grand Finale. What would you do to impress the audience?
I would be myself. You can only impress by being the authentic you.
On your chef’s life, any curious episode?
300 pieces of wedding cake that were completely destroyed by the truck that was transporting them to the location and we had to make up for it within only one hour. We did it!
Open the drawer and tell us your dream.
To end up, after a long journey, to my beginnings; in a small restaurant by the sea in a beautiful island with only 5 tables. I want to serve people feet naked, go fishing in front of the restaurant and to live the everyday sun along with the authenticity of the location.

 

They were 30. They became 9. Yesterday only 1 ….

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They were 30. They became 9. Yesterday only 1 ….
Hey, this is not an Agatha Christie novel….It’s what happened between nine chefs who made it to the final culinary competition UPVIVIUM , hosted by ALMA, the International School of Italian Cuisine in Colorno (Parma).
A large passionate audience and two juries, a technique and one of the press (including myself) attended to a bonanza of dishes, all inspired to the convivial table concept, where a main dish can be combined to a variety of different sides.


Bettolino di Foce di Comacchio  from UNESCO Po Delta Biosphere Reserve won the first place,“It’s a very strong emotion for us – said a visibly moved Alessandra Margherita Verduci, head of Bettolino di Foce – Surely this victory fills me with pride and makes me feel even stronger the sense of belonging to my territory that I love and that I live all the days. Our restaurant has been converted into an old ‘casone’ that was part of the Foce Fishing Station. Our philosophy is that of “you eat what you fished” accompanying simple recipes to products such as Comacchio salt, salicornia, an herb harvested here, pumpkin and our own radicchio ,Winning this edition of the UPVIVIUM contest makes us happy for the suggested  theme the convivial table. wich reminds me of my childhood, when my grandmother put everything on the table, not that much, but always a great joy. 

 

The second went to my favorite, Agriturismo Montagna Verde di Apella (Licciana Nardi – Massa Carrara) in the Biosphere of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, which also won the ‘Premio Stampa’,Great emotion also for the Montagna verde Maffei’s Team  the young chef Luca won two awards, ‘I dedicate this award to the passion, the strong bond with our land and the rediscovery of ancient traditions’ says Luca– “.The flavors of Lunigiana are those that go to make up the convivial table presented by the Agriturismo Montagna Verde. The central element is chestnut polenta which for centuries has been the base of the rural Apennine family. To realize it the Maffei use their production D.O.P. high quality, distributed under the Azienda Agricola Borgo Antico brand of Maffei Barbara. The other ingredients are the home made honey and the rabbit of the farm, La Valle di Fivizzano, the sheep ricotta (excellent!) Boschetti Giancarlo di Tavernelle, the Moro’s beer of Pontremoli and China Clementi of Fivizzano, used to make a reduction.

Third place for the “Fèsta granda” by Don Pedro Restaurant in Ponte Arche, Comano Terme (Trento) in the Alpi Ledrensi and Judicaria Biosphere Reserve.

 

 

I was a part of the invited press, and I have to say that we all were left with the tipicaly Italian expression ‘acquolina in bocca‘(mouth-watering) since we had no chance to taste the dishes….just watch and smell..

Well , looks and scents were amazing tho,,,
Enough to make me happy !

 


 

THE COLOMBA, EASTER SWEET TRIBUTE TO PEACE

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 Colomba di Pasqua is a traditional Italian Easter yeast bread. It is shaped like a dove (colomba in Italian), the symbol of peace and resurrection. The birth of the colomba dates back to the year 572, when King Alboin, after three years of siege, captured the town of Pavia in northern Italy on Easter Eve. Evading the guards, an old baker was able to reach the king and offer a dove-shaped leavened bread. “Alboin,” he said, “I offer this symbol, as a tribute to peace, on Easter day.” The sweet scent and the convincing message persuaded the king to give a promise of peace. That’s the legend.The dove we know today has a more recent origin and, I should say, a more prosaic version of the history. In the early 1930s the Milanese company Motta specialized in panettone, a cake produced only for Christmas. Unhappy to have their machinery unused for many months, Motta decided to package a similar product to be sold during the Easter holidays.
The shape of the sweet dove was a choice dictated not only by symbolism, but also to welcome the arrival of the spring. The new cake was (and still is) a huge success. It is typically soft, fragrant outside and moist inside, naturally leavened for a whole night, then filled with a mixture of flour, sugar, eggs and candied orange. After a long rest, the dough is portioned in different sizes for an additional four hours of leavening, then covered with almonds, sugar and amaretto. Since its birth, the colomba was enriched by many variations and a variety of different icings and fillings.

After baking, it must rest at least seven hours before it is finally packaged.

 

So many colombe…
From Loison to Fraccaro to all those of the Regina Colomba event, held in Milan a few days before Easter. I would like to mention the very young pastry chefs of Alma, the celebrated  International School of Italian Cuisine in Colorno, near Parma, where I discovered and tasted their very soft creation: the colomba with chocolate and black cherry flakes. Pleasantly  soft and spongy and intensely fragrant.
A sweet message of peace.

90′ RAPIDA. A new FUTURISM brings the fastest cooking pasta in the world.

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Italy,1909. The ‘futurismo’ artistic movement is born!!
Industrial, energetic, creative, daring, combative, controversial and ..super fast! Launched by the Filippo Marinetti’s tribe of innovative artists as a tribute to modernity, speed, violence, war, and the machine. Painting, sculpture, architecture, photography, poetry, fashion, cinema, music, theater, dance, typography and interior design and food! avantgarde, innovation, revolution, rebellion.. those guys were real punks of the era! To celebrate the rhythm of futurism, Rustichella d’Abruzzo created the amazing “C” shaped 90′ Rapida Spaghetti that connects the futurist concept of speed with that of a ready-made pasta in the shortest cooking time: only 90 seconds to boil and they are ready to be served with your favorite sauce. This revolutionary ‘speed in cooking pasta’  ( not a not a precooked product) reduces usage of gas, electricity and water, is  highly digestible, rich in perfume and flavour  of weat.Rustichella draws its origins from the ancient pasta factory Gaetano Sergiacomo, founded in 1924 in Penne, Italy and uses only the best durum wheat semolina selected, with a higher gluten content, mixed with pure mountain water to give a unique flavor and tenacity to its pasta, now available in more than 70 countries worldwide.
luckily I was invited to a ‘Futuristic Dinner’ by lovely Rustichella owner Maria Stefania Peduzzi who entertained her guests with an amazing ‘one of a kind culinary experience’ inspired to the artistic movement. The futuristic dinner took place at RED la Feltrinelli , located i the trendy area Isola, in Milan. Chefs Zonfa, Martin Sirmais, Cristian Di Tillio and Giuseppe di Mauro created a daring menu that started with a colorful dish of  finger food featuring the famous PolloFiat, followed by spaghetti 90 “Rapida, Paccherini with fruit and a variety of desserts. All served with futuristic poetry and music thanks to the actress Franca Minnucci who and Vincenzo Di Nicolantonio’s Work Music in Project.


 


 

 
 

 

A CLOSER LOOK AT ROMAGNA…UNIQUE WINES WORTH THE TRIP

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By Philip Sinsheimer
Photos by Philip Sinsheimer, Cesare Zucca

Cesare Zucca already related our fabulous trip to Romagna last June with its various highlights, where the warmth of the people rivaled the heat of the constant sun.
Today, the “vino-Phil” that I am will focus on the unsung grace of the wines of this region, overshadowed by Emilia, its twin sister to the West, which rolls on the fame of products as famous as Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, Aceto Balsamico de Modena, Mortadella di Bologna and, for the wines, Lambrusco.

I’m pretty sure you’ve heard of it, as it seems to be exported pretty much everywhere. Quite an achievement for a rather peculiar red wine, both fizzy and often sweet. Clearly, not the best bottles are exported… I still need to sip a Lambrusco that I would actually want to drink.Regardless of quality, Lambrusco has acquired fame. But, can you tell me anything about wines from Romagna? Sorry? I can’t hear you… Well, my guess is: not so much. At least, that was my case before discovering this region with my own eyes and mouth! Before, I knew it only for the famous beach town of Rimini (birthplace of Federico Fellini and of beach umbrellas according to some, and the historic city of Ravenna, which served as the capital of the Western Roman Empire (from 402 to 476). But wines, no, “I was dry”, as we say in French, not a clue as to what to expect…
I didn’t have to wait long to be initiated. As soon as we arrived at the charming Fattoria Faggioli where we were hosted during our four-day press trip, we were offered a red wine which reflected perfectly the delicious home cooked pasta and the general atmosphere: no fuss, big heart, big flavor, frank and bold (photo). It was a Sangiovese which, I was told right away, was the most prized and celebrated red grape of Romagna. Everyone tends to associate the noble grape with Tuscany, the region immediately to the South, with its world-famous Chianti and Brunelo di Montalcino. Even though Sangiovese has not reached those level of notoriety in Romagna, the region can definitely boast of a deeply rooted wine culture. After a few glasses, an old saying came up, revealing the generosity of the Romagnolo people and their love of wine. If a stranger knocks at the door of someone in Emilia, he is offered a glass of water, in Romagna… a glass of wine!. This sense of hospitality connected to wine culture was perfectly exemplified during our visit of the medieval town of Bertinoro. The symbol of this perched little city is its 13th century column with twelve metal rings, named the “column of hospitality” photo). Each ring was associated to one of the local noble families and when a traveler arrived into town and tied his horse to one of the rings, he would automatically become a guest of the family associated to it We didn’t arrive on horses, but were just as warmly welcomed at the beautiful visitor center with an in-depth presentation of the local wines. This was my first encounter with Romagna’s most celebrated white wine: l’Albana, unique to this region. The 2016 “I Croppi” from Celli winery (photo) revealed a white unlike any other. Golden in color, the wine had a serious body and boasted 14° of alcohol. One of the distinctive tastes I noticed was a lingering ripe apple flavor and it felt like it had some tannins. It is actually sometimes called the red wine made in white and it can pair meat dishes as well, if not better than seafood. We tasted a local 100% Sangiovese, bold and rich with 14.5% alcohol, but my second thrill came with the second white wine we tasted: the 2016 San Pascasio, Romagna Pagadebit DOP (photo), from the Campodelsole winery. Unlike the Albana, this white had a vivacious acidity and a refreshing minerality. Aromas and flavors of exotic fruits and elderflower were delicious. I was wowed and seduced immediately. Pagadebit is made from the Bombino Bianco grape, which, unlike Albana, is not unique to Romagna. It can be found in central Italy all the way to Puglia, but it has definite terroir characteristics here in Romagna and must count for at least 85% of the grapes for the Pagadebit di Romagna DOC. The name is a story in itself. “Paga-debit” – literally “pays your debt” in Italian – comes from the grape’s reputation for being high yielding and a reliable crop for vineyard owners to grow, assuring that each vintage would enable them to pay off their debts. But the latest report regarding the 2017 vintage is rather alarming and almost puts in question the validity of the promising name. My source is Mauro Sirri, co-owner of the Celli winery in Bertinoro. In his 34 years of winemaking experience, he has never seen such precocious harvest, which started on the 8th of August, about 3 weeks before than usual, due to high temperature and scarce rainfall. So much for those who have doubts about global or local warming! The oldest vines, benefiting from deeper roots, reacted better, but the average yield still dropped by 50%, putting at risk the financial balance of wineries.
On the positive side, Albana seems to gain some appeal outside the borders of Romagna. On November 25th and 26th 2017, Bertinoro will host the first Albana Trophy to find the best expert of this wine in order to be its ambassador both nationally and internationally. I wish I could go, perhaps you can, I know you should! The little town will be having many events for the occasion. You just cannot miss having a meal at l’Osteria Cà de Bè with a panoramic view of the surrounding hills and fantastic food (still thinking about this rabbit…). The wine collection is also exceptional (photo du mec?) and I really liked the 2016 Albana “Neblina”, produced by Givana Madonia, which had a very pleasant acidity
After my initiation in Bertinoro, I was better armed to appreciate the following tastings of Romagnolo wines. The first one came soon after at the Cantina Poderi dal Nespoli (link? http://www.poderidalnespoli.com/en/), a winery established in 1929 about 16 miles to the South-West of Bertinoro, with a beautiful tasting room and a wide diversity of wines. There was of course various Sangiovese based reds and out of the lot, my favorite was the Prugneto, Romagna DOC, Sangiovese Superiore, made from 100 % Sangiovese grosso: a wine full of life with a bright ruby color, an intense bouquet of ripe red fruit which didn’t translate in the palate into anything jammy, allowing a certain freshness to shine through and soft tannins to carry notes of violet and plum. Yum!
But, once again, my focus was more on the whites. The Campodora, a 100% Albana showcased the typical golden yellow color of the grape and a rich smooth taste of stone fruit and acacia flowers. But what made it shine for me was this beautiful balance between ripeness and acidity. This freshness, I was told, was to be attributed to vines perched at a higher altitude and a careful picking of the grapes in the morning, before it got too hot. Their Pagadebit (blended with 15% of Sauvignon Blanc) was fresh and vivacious with a floral nose and a crisp finish. Besides those two established whites in Romagna, we had the chance to discover a third one, called Famoso, in reference to the name of the grape which it was made of exclusively. Ironically, this indigenous grape from Romagna has been rediscovered in the last ten years or so after a period of abandonment. Fame comes and goes I guess. And what a flamboyant come back this was in the glass with this 2016 vintage: totally charming white, light, with only 11.5° alcohol, but intense with its floral aromas, notes of tropical fruit, and a long, clean, lip smacking finish. Cesare and I fell in love with this rarity and decided to buy a few bottles to take home and share with others. In spite of its name, Famoso won’t be in the aisle of your supermarket anytime soon! Look for it at your specialty wine store, but better yet, plan a trip to Ravenna.
If you have the chance to go in the summer during the Festa Artusiana in Forlimpopoli, your will be able to discover the beautiful Casa Artusi  (where you can take traditional cooking classes, as well as learn about one of the legends of Italian cookery in the name of Pellegrino Artusi whose monumental La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene was first printed in 1891 with 700 regional recipes. The whole town during these few days pays homage to the legendary food writer by putting certain of his recipes on the menu of established or ephemeral restaurants. Food stands abound and enable you to taste specialties from Romagna and elsewhere. Beverages are also part of the feast of course, from local microbrewery beers to local wines.                                                                                                                                                                         One stand had me taste an Albana Passito, sweet and intense, beautifully balanced with just enough acidity to make you want to have another sip. This final tasting note still lingers in my mind and the unique wines of Romagna will have me go back again, that is for sure.