Berlin or Paris? A Journey into the Heart of Modern Bistro Culture

Words and Photos by Cesare Zucca
Is it Berlin, or have we stepped straight into Paris?
The other evening, I immersed myself in the cuisine and—above all—the magnetic atmosphere of Berlin’s long-standing culinary gem: Entrecote, a fixture on the dining scene for years, that wraps you instantly in soft lighting, rich classic decor, and pure comfort.
The service is impeccably traditional: sleek waitstaff in crisp white shirts and floor-length black aprons, and there’s even the classic prep station where golden baguettes are sliced freshly to order. The walls are adorned with a lovely “Amour” neon sign and several gorgeous Art Deco posters that transport you straight to la vie parisienne.
Even the soundtrack plays its part, weaving a subtle backdrop of undeniably French melodies. Naturally, the carte du jour champions the ultimate classics: from the legendary Entrecôte Café de Paris served alongside crispy pommes allumettes, to the rich Coq au Vin, crisp salads, to those irresistible fried mussels à la marinière.

The Starters: Time-Honored & Elegantly Refined

Bienvenue! In the menu you will find some french classic, like vineyard snails with herbed garlic butter, fresh foie gras of duck served with toast or petite brochette de Saint-Jacques et Crevettes, with scallops and scampi on the spit with cocktail sauce paired with Champagne Bollinger.

I opened the meal with a warm, velvety goat cheese served over perfectly toasted crostini, followed by a exquisite taste of veal kidneys in a rich Madeira reduction, balanced by earthy mushrooms and buttery mashed potatoes.
The main course menu is a paradise for carnivores, boasting heavy hitters like the Angus Filet Charlemagne or Angus tenderloin served with a Béarnaise sauce, green beans and matchstick French fries, the succulent Grilled Prime Beef garnished with lemon and GT potatoes, and a robust Beef Stroganoff paired with boiled potatoes, caramelized onions, tender beetroot, button mushrooms, and a swirl of crème fraîche.

My Selection & The Grand Finale

Ultimately, I couldn’t resist to tray the fish and opted for an unforgettable sole Meunière, delicate and expertly seared, bathed in a silky, bright laurel and lemon butter sauce.
And for the grand finale?
An irresistible Île Flottante, a light desset, cloud-like, and pure culinary magic, traditionally paired with sweet wine Suaternes from Bordeaux.
Despite its sophisticated appearance, it relies on humble, everyday pantry ingredients (eggs, milk, and sugar), making it a triumph of French culinary technique over expensive components. The name translates directly to “floating island,” vividly describing the appearance of fluffy, baked or poached egg-white mounds resting atop a pale yellow pool of custard. It is a staple of traditional French bistro menus and family dining.

Behind the Line: An Exclusive Q&A with Berlin’s Rising Sous-Chef Star
Step into the heart of Berlin’s dining scene as we sit down with Melissa Mewitz, one of the city’s most talented sous-chefs. We’re talking comfort food, French culinary roots, and the unmistakable warmth of a true neighborhood bistro.

What is your earliest childhood memory in the kitchen?

“I was just a little over ten years old, completely obsessed with trying to recreate whatever my older sister had on the stove. Later on, it genuinely blossomed from a hobby; I just loved rushing home after school, firing up the burners, and experimenting with brand-new dishes and flavor combinations.”

If you had to pick one signature dish from your current menu as your absolute favorite, what would it be?

“Oh, without a doubt, it’s our perfectly tender, slow-cooked oxtail, served alongside a vibrant, flavorful medley of market-fresh vegetables.”

What is the true philosophy behind your kitchen?

“We operate like a family. We’ve designed our restaurant to have this incredibly welcoming, unpretentious, soul-soothing vibe—the kind of place where walking through the doors feels less like dining out and more like catching up with old friends.”

Do you still find time to cook at home?

“Most definitely! Every single day—or at least every single moment I manage to carve out some free time.”

Are you a stickler for the classics at home, or do you love to improvise and experiment?

“I adore experimenting with new creations, partly to keep things fresh and partly to stretch my wings away from our restaurant menu, which is unapologetically traditional French cuisine.”

Can you tell us a bit about your famous “Île Flottante” (Floating Island)?

“Of course! It features a luscious, velvety vanilla custard with zero alcohol, so absolutely everyone can enjoy it. As for the fluffy whites—and honestly, sometimes I always mix up whether it’s the yolk or the egg white—it’s deceptively simple, yet utterly magical.”

One final question: why should guests choose your oxtail and your bistro?

“Because here, you are family. Even after you’ve finished your meal, there’s no rush; you can linger over coffee, strike up a conversation with the neighbors at the next table… in short, it’s the quintessential, warm-hearted French bistro experience.”

Enjoy l´esprit brasserie – right at the heart of Berlin!

INFO
Entrecote
Schützenstrasse 5, 10117 Berlin, Phone: 030 20165496

 

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