by Cesare Zucca
During my trip abroad you decided to dedicate a stop to the beautiful Bruges, a Belgian town in the wonderful Flanders region. A destination that will give you history, art, culture and a succulent Flemish recipe.
Ready? Let’s go!
You will discover medieval towers, canals, villas and palaces, romantic corners surrounded by greenery and the picturesque views that Bruges offers to the visitor.
This city, thanks to its favorable position and the connection with the sea became since the Middle Ages. an important and enterprising commercial point and port center of north-western Europe. Many wealthy European traders moved to Bruges where the first stock exchange was born, whose activities took place on the square in front of the Van der Beurze family inn and whose handbags are still immortalized on the portal of the palace.

The golden century began for Bruges, led by the Dukes of Burgundy who expanded their residence here, transforming the city into a lively economic and cultural crossroads. Famous painters such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling, great Flemish primitive masters, found in Bruges the ideal place for their artistic activities.

The year 1482 marked the sad decline of the city, relations between merchants and Maximilian of Burgundy plummeted, as did the connections of Bruges with the sea. The court, foreign merchants, authorities and artists left the city, in short, the VIPs of the time all left, except … the swans that have always been present in Bruges, a symbol of freedom and still highly photographed protagonists ..

The great revival took place in 1892 when the extraordinary heritage of the city was rediscovered. Thanks to its intimate and mysterious beauty, Bruges began to be regarded as one of the most interesting tourist destinations in the world

How to get around Bruges
In Bruges it is wonderful to wander aimlessly in the winding streets to discover its medieval face and its most hidden corners, perhaps relying on a guide, on foot or by bicycle, or by rickshaw, a unique and ecological means of transport.The canals of Bruges are the arteries of the city. Do not miss a boat or boat tour along the canals, from which you can see the city from a different point of view and discover hidden corners and secret gardens. Boarding takes place at one of the five piers in the heart of the city and the tour takes about half an hour.The more adventurous can experience the thrill of a flight in one of the Bruges Ballooning balloons which organizes morning and evening tours in the skies above the city, the excursion lasts three hours, at least one in the air.

Are you romantic?
An evocative carriage ride awaits you where you will enjoy all the picturesque beauty of Bruges, through centuries-old squares and fabulous canal bridges, while the coachman will offer you expert explanations and will make a short stop at the famous (and unmissable) Begijnhof, a structure with white walls, once home to a commune of ‘beguines’, emancipated lay women who led a chaste and pure life in a true oasis of religious peace, characterized by the imposing internal courtyard, the trees with tangled roots and wonderful seasonal flowers. Not far away, Lake Minnewater awaits you, surrounded by a beautiful park and crossed by a suggestive bridge from 1720 that offers a spectacular view of the towers and pointed roofs of Bruges.

TO BE SEEN

Grote Markt or Market Square, was the commercial center of Bruges in medieval times and lively nest of the city, dominated by the Belfort, Civic Tower on which you can climb 83 steps to enjoy a breathtaking view. It is not possible to book, so expect a bit of a wait, but I assure you, it’s worth it

Burg beating heart of the city. For over 600 years, the square’s majestic architecture has also included the Landhuis, home of the Bruges Legion of Freedom. This square was the administrative and religious heart of Bruges and, although nothing remains of the two buildings, the beautiful historic buildings that surround it bear witness to this. First of all, the 14th-century Gothic Town Hall Stadhuis, one of the oldest in the Netherlands, with spiers, turrets and a beautifully decorated, window-studded facade.

Basilica of the Holy Blood of Bruges which, in a precious crystal bottle, houses a fragment of the fabric used by Joseph of Arimathea to dry the blood of Christ after the crucifixion.
Church of Our Lady, built in the Brabantine Gothic style between the 13th and 15th centuries, the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk is a splendid example of the skill and expertise of local artisans.Inside you will find a real jewel, Michelangelo’s Madonna of Bruges , Carrara marble sculpture of extraordinary beauty It was purchased in 1506 by the Mouscron family, rich merchants of Bruges fabrics, to adorn the family tomb and is the only work of Michelangelo to have left Italy while the great artist was still in life.

Side by side are wonderful museums: the Gruuthuse, a sumptuous 15th-century palace inhabited by a merchant who collected the tax on “Gruut”, a mixture of herbs that was added to barley in the brewing process. The Museum, through 22 rooms, tells 500 years of Bruges history with collections ranging from tapestries to furniture, from objects in precious metals to ceramics, from weapons to musical instruments and the suggestive private chapel that overlooks the nave of the Church of Our Lady. Allowing nobles to attend religious services without being seen by the people.

Groening Museum rich collection of works of art from the 15th to the 20th century, mainly focused on the artists who lived and worked in Bruges. A magnificent collection of paintings by the so-called Flemish Primitives forms the core of the permanent exhibition and is one of the best collections of medieval art in Europe. In fact, the Museum boasts some masterpieces by Hans Memling, Gerard David and Jan Van Eyck, considered the initiator of the Flemish school and the famous portrait of his wife “Margareta, with a rather severe expression, it is rumored that in the house… she was the boss…

Flemish cuisine

Belgium, as we know, is famous for its ‘frites’ french fries often accompanied by ‘Mariniere’ or ‘au vin blanc’ mussels. Excellent street food, you can find them everywhere, in very generous portions, strictly fresh and cut on the same day, with a huge choice of sauces, from mayonnaise, the most traditional, to ketchup, tartare, or a thousand other unexpected versions.

The ‘frites’ are a true institution, so much so that the city honors them with a museum in the splendid Saalhalle palace, the Frietmuseum, tells the story of the potato, the ‘frites’ and sauces, all, of course, with a final tasting! Madame Adi, my kind guide, recommended Casa Patata, where I allowed myself a tasty break, really good!.

What to eat in Bruges
Flemish gastronomy is a successful mix of French and Belgian dishes. Among the seafood products stand out ‘gray’ prawns (crevettes gris), eels, moules-frites (mussels with fries, I recommend, keep an eye on the season) Among the meats: mixed boiled meat (hochebot), pork mijotè , carbonade (bovine), the famous Brussels sprout, white asparagus (in season), chocolate and more than 1000 types of beer!

Where I had dinner
Goesepitte43, alternative but not too much, innovative at the right point, the Belgian cuisine happily present and excellently reworked by chef Jan Supply who has renamed his ‘bistronomy’ place between bistro, brasserie and gastronomic restaurant. Meat, fish and poultry and great attention to vegetable side dishes that can be chosen by the customer. Many dishes are cooked with Mibrasa, a charcoal oven that enhances the natural aromas of the ingredients and releases a unique range of pure flavors.

I tasted the famous white asparagus ‘Spitsbroek’ feuilleté, tender and juicy served with a delicious mousseline sauce and I cannot fail to mention the amazing dessert, an apple crepe with a touch of vanilla ice cream …

Here the original “crêpe normande”. recipe

The apple tart is a pancake with apple slices called a “crêpe normande”. The recipe for 12 pancakes is:

4 eggs

200g of flour

60g of melted butterthe

0,5l milk

4 apples, peeled and thinly sliced (use a mandoline if you have one)

To caramelize : 200g Sugar + 200 butter

INSTRUCTIONS

1 Whisk all ingredients apart from the butter and apples with half the milk to combine, and then whisk in the rest of the milk to make a batter. Resist the temptation to use a blender as it will over-activate the gluten in the flour and stop the batter from running properly in the pan. Set aside for a while.

2 Very lightly cook the apple slices in a pan with a little butter, just to soften them. Set aside.

3 Heat the butter in a crêpe pan until foaming. Add a ladle of batter and spread out either by moving the pan or using a wooden spreader. Quickly add some apple slices in a nice pattern, and spread over a little more of the batter. Cook for few moments until browning, and then turn the pancake over in the pan to cook the other side. With crêpes Normande, this takes practice because the apples reduce the cohesively of the crêpe. If you can do a full flip, then this is a good skill to acquire. Don’t worry if you mess it up – hide the error with a fold.

4 Fold onto a plate once cooked and serve with ice cream or Chantilly cream.

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